tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70432878960011579192024-03-13T20:19:32.632-03:00Qualidade de VidaLiving in Brazil I am enjoying the culture, commenting on the differences, celebrating local expressions and inviting others to enjoy all Brazil has to offer.Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.comBlogger798125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-308173463469205152014-09-09T11:17:00.000-03:002014-09-11T15:09:52.765-03:00Cracking the code for perfect multi-grain bread<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Fulfilling my desire for fresh, moist, chewy, multigrain
bread with a good crust has not been easy these past 6 years. My efforts have
been thwarted by multiple limitations in our local reality. Even though Niterói
is a pretty big city (about 500,000 people) and we sit just across the bay from
Rio de Janeiro, the variety of fresh breads found in local bakeries is pretty
limited. None of the bakeries near me are making anything like what I have in
mind.</div>
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The typical Brazilian so-called French style “pãozinho” (little
bread) and its cousin the longer baguette are wonderful if you like pure white
flour, super light and airy interiors with a thin, delicate outer crust. Many
bakeries do an outstanding job of making these little, delicately crusted,
bread clouds – and they are very popular.
Forgive me if I prefer a heartier, whole wheat chew in my bread. And when
I desire white flour bread I prefer it more Italian-style with a firm texture
and a thick, almost burnt crust.</div>
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Finding satisfying bread has been a bit of a conundrum. </div>
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Back in the early 1980s I lived in a hip(py) vegetarian housing
co-op in Lansing, Michigan. We made all our own bread (and yogurt, and tempeh,
and granola). So I am no stranger to making bread. I understand that bread
dough is alive and must be kept that way, treated with kindness, until placed
in the oven. Unlike the precise chemistry in cake baking, I know there is some
room to play with the proportions of ingredients in breads, and that gluten is generally
your friend (apologies to those who are intolerant).</div>
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Just after college, during that year of wondering what came
next, I worked the night shift in a family-owned Italian bakery. We made
hundreds of dozens of dinner rolls, baguettes, various loaves and various
specialty breads nightly. </div>
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These are the experiences, both personal and
professional, that I have brought to my task of unlocking the secrets of
successfully making bread in my home here in Brazil.</div>
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Bread making with locally available ingredients and in my
little Easy-Bake Oven, however, has been a journey.</div>
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In my experience, the obstacles to success pretty much come
down to two things: the flour here has a low protein count (which means it is
low in gluten) and a typical, basic, household oven cannot muster up the
necessary heat to get a good crusty crust. But I have finally overcome these
obstacles and am sharing my “solutions” in this post.</div>
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A note on my oven: we have your basic stove appliance found
all over the country in typical homes. It heats with gas and sells for about
R$600. It is a four burner, so some would see it as an “apartment” size stove
and strive for a 5 or 6 burner model for larger families. But in reality, most
families are stone broke, so this is about as much stove as they can afford.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbxfk8MiYE5gX8gtzmsdDCUapq4sZAOlkIF0rZmqLijQq08NJgwWFZV6EaqXGBKCny5YxItgXdh60sT4_knP9X91BRbHTU2sahfo2wc4jAuuknYk1hQQuEywNB4OSqBd4IAJPGxjV71vM/s1600/P8230021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVbxfk8MiYE5gX8gtzmsdDCUapq4sZAOlkIF0rZmqLijQq08NJgwWFZV6EaqXGBKCny5YxItgXdh60sT4_knP9X91BRbHTU2sahfo2wc4jAuuknYk1hQQuEywNB4OSqBd4IAJPGxjV71vM/s1600/P8230021.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's my oven, with some dough put to rise. Note I use a hang-on thermometer. The oven dial does not include temperature markings (not that I would trust them anyway).</td></tr>
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As is true with so many things here, while it may not be fancy,
it does the job. Well, in this case, the job of boiling or frying on the
stovetop. But it just doesn't get hot enough in the oven to make things like a toasted,
blistered pizza crust or a crispy bread loaf. There are definitely more robust
options on the market, but they tend to be much larger in size (thus not
fitting in our kitchen) and have larger price tags (thus not fitting in our
budget). As it stands, I am set on developing strategies for making our oven
work rather than living beyond our means.</div>
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Join me down here in regular people Brazil-land for some
tips on getting a decent sandwich loaf of multi-grain wheat bread from your run
of the mill oven. I think I have worked it out.</div>
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So the two things I want in my breads (correlated to the
above mentioned obstacles) is a good texture/shape and a crispy crust. </div>
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The way I have worked out the crispy crust thing is to (wait
for it) just let it go. It’s not gonna happen. I can force a hard baked crust,
but only by over cooking the loaf. I've tried splashing water into an iron pan
pre-heated on the bottom of the oven when putting the bread in. But the steam
it creates that is supposed to moisten and then crisp the crust just manages to
extinguish the oven flame and cut the heat altogether. Spritzing water onto the
surface of the loaf to coax a crust just produces a soggy mess that eventually
cooks, but never crusts. The oven is never hot enough. Ah well – I’m just
letting go… no homemade crispy crust bread out of my oven. Sigh. Moving on…</div>
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I <i>have </i>figured out the whole texture and “structural
integrity” thing; the gluten problem. The texture of my multi-grain bread
rocks!</div>
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After some serious searching, plus the repeated education of
a local natural foods store manager encouraging him to sell gluten, I can now
buy “farinha de gluten” (gluten flour, or ‘vital gluten’) to then add to my
locally available flours to increase the gluten content sufficient to create
the texture I need. I have never seen so-called “bread flour” on the shelves
here at grocery stores.</div>
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There is a nearby Italian bakery/sandwich/dessert shop that
sells imported “type 00” flour, which is essentially bread flour with a higher
protein content – perfect for pizza dough – but it is a bit expensive. If you
can find this imported “type 00” flour in your area, it is a solution in and of
itself if you are just using it (with little to no whole wheat or other flours
added). </div>
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So to make that perfect loaf here’s what you do. First, get
your hands on farinha de gluten (not “farinha com gluten” that is just regular
flour with a kick of gluten added - not the same). You will be adding about 5 –
6 teaspoons of gluten to the flour of each loaf (4 teaspoons if you’re just using
white flour). Second, and just as important, is to add an “autolyse” step into
your mixing process.</div>
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An autolyse (in bread making) refers to a resting period
just after the initial mixing of water and flour (and in our case the added
gluten) that gives the mixture time to hydrate. This step ramps up the
development of gluten (which depends on water) as well as allows time for the
flours to “self-digest” (break down a bit), making the whole-grain dough less
tacky to work with and ultimately light and chewy rather than tough.</div>
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The solution is in the biology and chemistry. Yay science!</div>
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Enough already – here is the recipe.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Multi-grain Sandwich Bread<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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This recipe is a modified version of one perfected by the
cooks/food scientists over at <a href="http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/2906-multigrain-bread" target="_blank">Cooks Illustrated</a>. It was by reading their
materials that I learned about the value of an autolyse process, for which I am
grateful.</div>
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Makes one large loaf. Feel free to double the recipe – I cut
the original recipe in half because Luiz and I rarely have use for two large
loaves at any one time.</div>
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<b>Ingredients<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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¾ cup (150 g) multi-grain mix (explained below)<br />
1 cup (200 ml) warm water<br />
1 ½ cups (225 g) white flour<br />
¾ cup (100 g) whole wheat flour<br />
5 teaspoons gluten (vital gluten or trigo de gluten)<br />
3 Tablespoons molasses (melaço or “melado”) or honey (mel)<br />
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, melted (or you can use canola or soy oil)<br />
2 teaspoons (5 g) active dry yeast (fermento biológico seco instantâneo)<br />
1 teaspoon salt<br />
½ cup seeds, like sunflower or sesame (optional)</div>
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<b>Procedure<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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To make the multi-grain mix I use a couple of tablespoons
each: pearled barley (cevada, or “cevadinha”), wheat berries (trigo em grão),
whole oats (aveia) and bulgur/cracked wheat (trigo para kibe). You can use
whatever grains you like. (If I could find them I would use soy grits and
buckwheat groats rather than the barley and cracked wheat. But I have not seen
these here.) Boil the wheat berries and barley for about 35 minutes, or until
tender. Then add the oats for a couple minutes, then the cracked wheat. Remove
from heat and let it sit a few minutes. It should be a cooked but chewy mix.
Measure out your ¾ cup portion. Eat the rest with yogurt and a banana for
breakfast. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></div>
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Place the prepared grain mix, water, sweetener and oil in the mixing bowl of your Kitchen Aid [I hope you have one. Or any strong stand mixer. Luckily I brought my 25 year old workhorse from the States. Without a machine to help you, prepare to knead by hand a good 15 minutes or longer. Longer kneading is also part of the success.]. Be sure it is not too
hot. Then stir in the yeast and let sit for 5 – 8 minutes until the awakened
yeast is foamy.</div>
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Meanwhile, sift together your flours and gluten. Feel free
to experiment with other tasty flours you have been missing since you moved here.
Do NOT add the salt just yet. It retards the yeast, so we will add it later.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CXMgU7FLwMf9XealaTh7CJli2gowL7oM-nCCO1jzk3f7LN1YLECAkgQNy4oHENFV1-njp3lFNmCvvPsKlc2L7hGq8YBOc9fqn0aoQxG_yITzzzkgJrmdt4_IAj_Ff4m_NjGz5M5rhpgW/s1600/P8230013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CXMgU7FLwMf9XealaTh7CJli2gowL7oM-nCCO1jzk3f7LN1YLECAkgQNy4oHENFV1-njp3lFNmCvvPsKlc2L7hGq8YBOc9fqn0aoQxG_yITzzzkgJrmdt4_IAj_Ff4m_NjGz5M5rhpgW/s1600/P8230013.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
When the wet mixture is nice an foamy, using the dough hook,
slowly mix in the flour mixture. Mix it up until well combined, about 2
minutes, but don’t lean in to the kneading process. Cover the bowl with plastic
wrap (I just wrap a tea towel around the stand mixer) and let it sit for 20
minutes. This is the autolyse step I described earlier. Don’t rush this. Let it
do its magic.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVX_UuMfFuUtYX84EIqMGXDZ7aZoTliR5zBeyDptnWXsFEet-RhfIf84nM-54dNZyZtHrMBqHga7UyS-ljQRl-T3sCbWKtvyXCs2vBacvz8U63Gwv6yRgJLl-xLzmEuV_kD8HxHMJc6mnu/s1600/P8230014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVX_UuMfFuUtYX84EIqMGXDZ7aZoTliR5zBeyDptnWXsFEet-RhfIf84nM-54dNZyZtHrMBqHga7UyS-ljQRl-T3sCbWKtvyXCs2vBacvz8U63Gwv6yRgJLl-xLzmEuV_kD8HxHMJc6mnu/s1600/P8230014.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSJmpCsZLf1UTMXs4mb7mYHT5FRrh_NcFUaIbgrenDXrNAeEjgK2MVmDnJUOMOp-VQ3vBVp84w-TghS6e0hCsWvnLZfAcvZOoJEMEvEuB1DQYjY9wqWcbaTWhPd6uj-7vowzhcigR2B7E/s1600/P8230016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnSJmpCsZLf1UTMXs4mb7mYHT5FRrh_NcFUaIbgrenDXrNAeEjgK2MVmDnJUOMOp-VQ3vBVp84w-TghS6e0hCsWvnLZfAcvZOoJEMEvEuB1DQYjY9wqWcbaTWhPd6uj-7vowzhcigR2B7E/s1600/P8230016.JPG" height="195" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now add the salt and knead on medium speed until the
still-wet dough clears the sides of the bowl, about 4 minutes. You will surely
need to add more flour to help stiffen the dough, but don’t go crazy. I like to
keep the dough a little more sticky than seems intuitive. But you may find
yourself adding a bunch of flour (a little at a time). Just go for it and try
not to overdo it.<br />
<br />
When the dough seems about right (still sticky looking) continue to knead for 5
more minutes. Depending on the random turning motion of your dough ball in the
mixer you may want to stop and rearrange the dough a couple of times just to
be sure you are getting a thorough kneading. Add a bit more flour as needed (so
to speak).<br />
<br />
Once everything is perfect, transfer the dough to a floured surface and carefully
knead in the seeds. Remember the dough is still alive and relying on you to
treat it with care until you place it into the oven. Do not force yourself on
it, tearing up the dough. Be gentle, but firm.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsODJrzcsuJ4zKYSvT8h1VP6_ORilvjc1fbApe7KKl8DRcdsK_82SY7gCsTh4ymMLibj6BWuJeKi8sVwl_3WEkrdfJslLHi2_DHSvnFAtBs4uwtI4ACBpFdGrQIs23OILChhlE9Vho5Q0j/s1600/P8230018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsODJrzcsuJ4zKYSvT8h1VP6_ORilvjc1fbApe7KKl8DRcdsK_82SY7gCsTh4ymMLibj6BWuJeKi8sVwl_3WEkrdfJslLHi2_DHSvnFAtBs4uwtI4ACBpFdGrQIs23OILChhlE9Vho5Q0j/s1600/P8230018.JPG" height="248" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Form the dough into a taut ball and place it into a large slightly
oiled bowl. Cover lightly and allow to rise, away from any drafts, until
doubled in size; about an hour.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Go do other stuff: make the bed, check your Facebook, do the
laundry, lay in a hammock and listen to Yo-Yo Ma on your iPod, whatever… Good
bread takes time.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtEvcAtZGJkDm3O5vAXLD1bkU8M_-h3ISr0SbEIqekmJkjsFEwWzlice_iBnOfiqfUhcCUeQcZIHDq8Ck81pwb3gY7PXxW2U_My3hTUrni4Ba2kks4ID9IcxN_q8JyOCM4AseSANSNyRaY/s1600/P8230027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtEvcAtZGJkDm3O5vAXLD1bkU8M_-h3ISr0SbEIqekmJkjsFEwWzlice_iBnOfiqfUhcCUeQcZIHDq8Ck81pwb3gY7PXxW2U_My3hTUrni4Ba2kks4ID9IcxN_q8JyOCM4AseSANSNyRaY/s1600/P8230027.JPG" height="215" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Adjust your oven rack to the middle position. Heat oven to
375 degrees F (180 C). If you are using a bread pan, grease it slightly. If you
are going for the country-style big round loaf I suggest you put a pizza stone
or a super large clay pot into the oven and preheat it along with the oven
itself. The stone/clay helpers MUST be preheated. Do not pre-soak the clay pot
as you might have read in regards to other recipes. That’s a different thing.
Here we are using the pot to not just help create a dry crisp bottom on the
loaf, but also to help preserve the heat in the oven when you open it to put
the loaf in. Every degree counts!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you are going with the big clay pot, prepare a large
sheet of parchment (papel manteiga) on a cooking tray, dusted with cornmeal
(fuba). Set aside. No need for the parchment if you are using a flat pizza stone. Just dust a pan to rest the dough on to rise.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGXGdSFNFycAINyP-a9sMDshVELzpxMMncbAzjtLFOEiUX-pRLrb-adZvH8RsBXR9UZZKittH2mdYPD6kdNtIatM2NcEDGFnkIzQE1EVUwncPezvdbxfWg1SsZjNrzwHoXWNyzHBW9WsCo/s1600/P8230022+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGXGdSFNFycAINyP-a9sMDshVELzpxMMncbAzjtLFOEiUX-pRLrb-adZvH8RsBXR9UZZKittH2mdYPD6kdNtIatM2NcEDGFnkIzQE1EVUwncPezvdbxfWg1SsZjNrzwHoXWNyzHBW9WsCo/s1600/P8230022+-+Copy.JPG" height="216" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjJO4zUomhO2bmzOiVyPsKfdeAj8g5hikVVWrBvFsgEiRT44uYUt147hgC0QqUF43Ob2b5BzxyBnxBZegizGFTSkWEkqCtEuTx3q9vaGvPERgS_dJEL_KpCaqt8lUndbMk2FFZaBn-LxK/s1600/P8230023+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjJO4zUomhO2bmzOiVyPsKfdeAj8g5hikVVWrBvFsgEiRT44uYUt147hgC0QqUF43Ob2b5BzxyBnxBZegizGFTSkWEkqCtEuTx3q9vaGvPERgS_dJEL_KpCaqt8lUndbMk2FFZaBn-LxK/s1600/P8230023+-+Copy.JPG" height="248" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Transfer your risen dough to a lightly floured surface and
punch it down (gently). If you are going with the loaf pan, fold it over itself
(in thirds) and pat it into a rectangle suitable in size to fit into the pan. (At this
point you can also roll the dough in oats for that all-over oats look. But I
find the oats I get are too tough.) Gently place it into the pan, cover lightly and let it rise again until almost
doubled, maybe 30+ minutes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdx5OdhV2yXhjk9of7mwEys8RDbSa_fuQ2peFI-49EesJiiDfYge5z3FoRNs4D69HKZivZmtcmE6u50bEMz5Q-3xm3QWs-jIUaRxYA4C0RHMXtj-mvWd8CPJBCnglp3YajMyRUYGwszi_a/s1600/P8230024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdx5OdhV2yXhjk9of7mwEys8RDbSa_fuQ2peFI-49EesJiiDfYge5z3FoRNs4D69HKZivZmtcmE6u50bEMz5Q-3xm3QWs-jIUaRxYA4C0RHMXtj-mvWd8CPJBCnglp3YajMyRUYGwszi_a/s1600/P8230024.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the round loaf gently fold the dough over and then shape
it into a ball, tucking the sides under and pressing up into the center. Pull into
a firm ball but take care not to rip the dough. Place the ball onto the center
of the prepared, dusted parchment paper. Cover and let rise until almost
doubled.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBWd8iQd_Y9iBsHcJIV863WtYljLTRBV7ad6pOvv_AyhvXXksoYRfiI7B1VB0jq4c0MtM0bk1DhB1-s_gMmnb0Aaj6GYNoxtvJq6ZE4X0AqI4WBo5Up7oxwOX26kNmrYZ9bWFYl-4853mT/s1600/P9040001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBWd8iQd_Y9iBsHcJIV863WtYljLTRBV7ad6pOvv_AyhvXXksoYRfiI7B1VB0jq4c0MtM0bk1DhB1-s_gMmnb0Aaj6GYNoxtvJq6ZE4X0AqI4WBo5Up7oxwOX26kNmrYZ9bWFYl-4853mT/s1600/P9040001.JPG" height="250" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This second rising is critical, but you also do not want to “over
proof” the dough, so even though you may get hypnotized by the magic of your
rising loaf, don’t let it rise for an hour or longer. It will reach for the
sky, but also probably over reach and then collapse when you handle it or when
it gets placed into the oven. You want height AND firm structural integrity. It
should be big, but not squishy - puffy - fragile.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbONwuor8OfRf45vc8d3PWys17sKd6EtL9Yj60DWREL42zuDKLENcYij0TBoNqvlODw0kapGMVKh_C81lcdgr-0qPJVMy_eEjkK-DP_TOtf-5Um5K0tsMR6a7l05FQWLuWwRIaKXMatnh9/s1600/P8240029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbONwuor8OfRf45vc8d3PWys17sKd6EtL9Yj60DWREL42zuDKLENcYij0TBoNqvlODw0kapGMVKh_C81lcdgr-0qPJVMy_eEjkK-DP_TOtf-5Um5K0tsMR6a7l05FQWLuWwRIaKXMatnh9/s1600/P8240029.JPG" height="247" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now either place your pan into the oven or carefully transfer your dough onto the pizza stone, or gently lift
your parchment carpet with even tension and place it into the preheated clay
pot – quickly placing it in the oven. Keep that Easy-Bake Oven door closed as
much as possible so as not to lose valuable heat.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmgg7QyFOR0mKd5qKqIfT_1jLXlNT4t4MPQOsFdNHULhTrAmM88NKxwngm87a6-NsyEUbPXpW8qGGgnrHAQjM6I3qvxOHaWS7QPyn1i9QFVutjxVqkhLmPq-KyjxsENOy04JfdpLqScXd3/s1600/P8240031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmgg7QyFOR0mKd5qKqIfT_1jLXlNT4t4MPQOsFdNHULhTrAmM88NKxwngm87a6-NsyEUbPXpW8qGGgnrHAQjM6I3qvxOHaWS7QPyn1i9QFVutjxVqkhLmPq-KyjxsENOy04JfdpLqScXd3/s1600/P8240031.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bake until internal temperature registers 200 degrees F
(about 95 C), about 30 - 40 minutes. You should have a nice brown crust. Do not over bake. Longer
might get you a darker crust, but it will also get you a thicker crust and a
dryer loaf. Remove from pan/pot and cool on a wire rack before slicing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO99KCv921v84BJaean1TOUDTGWaEGVhBHFDF1JgWMwSvDrOZZey5r4Yr97r5jopCcCvxIXvPYMw8hQlx07sV8wYFdu0qGBxXcPazWB4-AHKxMk0xPZUK_53u5IpvE8ljfpTrXojw_Js2G/s1600/P8240002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO99KCv921v84BJaean1TOUDTGWaEGVhBHFDF1JgWMwSvDrOZZey5r4Yr97r5jopCcCvxIXvPYMw8hQlx07sV8wYFdu0qGBxXcPazWB4-AHKxMk0xPZUK_53u5IpvE8ljfpTrXojw_Js2G/s1600/P8240002.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This bread has such terrific texture you can slice really thin slices and it holds together nicely.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
It works for me. Let me know how it goes for you. Your
advice and tips are appreciated.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-91412488655160680552014-08-24T11:44:00.000-03:002014-08-24T11:44:06.565-03:00Trindade - the way it was before<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwyprnIQPvVE472GMX7lHP105k63Jz-0HaI9wjwLZ9Qri2MUQIsA2wuuBhtweVmFsDYPDD7yVtfvZGc12B1JNdhWR6Yl5dtW3A4xcAVrrYntZ2EvCbmGrMI1_SV0em-NefJ1chu8YZ8GU3/s1600/P5190177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwyprnIQPvVE472GMX7lHP105k63Jz-0HaI9wjwLZ9Qri2MUQIsA2wuuBhtweVmFsDYPDD7yVtfvZGc12B1JNdhWR6Yl5dtW3A4xcAVrrYntZ2EvCbmGrMI1_SV0em-NefJ1chu8YZ8GU3/s1600/P5190177.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The secret to traveling in Brazil is to get to these bars before they put in a floor, walls and air conditioning!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Brazil is changing year after year. Some say for the better;
some say otherwise. As travelers throughout Brazil, Luiz and I have seen a lot
of “evolution” at the natural places we love to visit. What I have witnessed
over the past 15 years, in terms of the development of previously rural or
sparsely populated coastal areas, is a fraction of the changes Luiz has seen
since his early adventures as a teenager. He and his friends were frequent
campers on beaches and in tiny towns long before comfortable pousadas appeared
on the scene.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IGAfyPnLkMxoFVD_TxWrZ3wUHbSGIylOHOmKFiniVk3z6drP3hhcahTqg3unqR94vmhHrnixsTOKTAAgALUyINC2VRyeDGzaoVI9sawfaXjMVUa3ylHzOpKry-bywPeTxnJEuWcMfvG-/s1600/cabo+frio+feia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IGAfyPnLkMxoFVD_TxWrZ3wUHbSGIylOHOmKFiniVk3z6drP3hhcahTqg3unqR94vmhHrnixsTOKTAAgALUyINC2VRyeDGzaoVI9sawfaXjMVUa3ylHzOpKry-bywPeTxnJEuWcMfvG-/s1600/cabo+frio+feia.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorry Cabo Frio. Not my favorite beachfront view.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sometimes the “progress” is stark and ugly. I think it is
safe to say that <a href="http://www.cabofrio.rj.gov.br/turismo/portal" target="_blank">Cabo Frio</a> is a fail, having lurched blindly into the fast lane
of tourism development. While the beach has stayed clean and the water remains
spectacularly clear and crystal blue, you need only look behind you to the
burgeoning little city and its wincingly soulless, crowded and chaotic beach-town
tourist lowest-common-denominator “development.” Hint: if you want to visit the
beautiful sea near Cabo Frio (without doing the whole European upscale thing of
Buzios) set your sights on neighboring Arraial do Cabo. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH-H_oWXlQF9OARWZS13t64aAo71QV1aPfGa3oJbn1O_yT3wcEP4Ep5qaUydHBNvCiU2LQhQJ0OgeiAKbRvxSP0k4fOnjHQthuE3RgmUOE5Kc1ZNK42uzN6F5DzpXypM38dt3sc0NiiuLo/s1600/mapa_praias_arraial_do_cabo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH-H_oWXlQF9OARWZS13t64aAo71QV1aPfGa3oJbn1O_yT3wcEP4Ep5qaUydHBNvCiU2LQhQJ0OgeiAKbRvxSP0k4fOnjHQthuE3RgmUOE5Kc1ZNK42uzN6F5DzpXypM38dt3sc0NiiuLo/s1600/mapa_praias_arraial_do_cabo.jpg" height="207" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arraial do Cabo: still a small town - with lots of beaches, and just a cab ride from Cabo Frio.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This post, however, is meant to focus on the success story (so
far) that is Trindade. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Luiz and I have been to Trindade in the past. You can learn
more about our first visit (and see photos of a very fat Jim) <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2010/05/beautiful-trindade.html" target="_blank">here</a>. At that
time we enjoyed a small coastal hippie town that was slowly morphing before
everyone’s eyes into a burgeoning (on a tiny scale) coastal getaway for the
Paulistas escaping their urban zoo for a weekend. We felt lucky to have been
there before it was totally overrun.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEH_uB1yWHYs_kDyZbHr2OoaeUjCUXaHIujxXnX40OEfMyrqlGy0xyH4wSwxWpJtIPrLELBXYA4JSxYxPrUY3R7J2HfIo1-l9OIen5aSkrauCbyiSoEnbVmYZ2ItHamIv6SULIZ05NPF0/s1600/P5190169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpEH_uB1yWHYs_kDyZbHr2OoaeUjCUXaHIujxXnX40OEfMyrqlGy0xyH4wSwxWpJtIPrLELBXYA4JSxYxPrUY3R7J2HfIo1-l9OIen5aSkrauCbyiSoEnbVmYZ2ItHamIv6SULIZ05NPF0/s1600/P5190169.JPG" height="234" width="320" /></a></div>
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During our first visit to Trindade we loved the fact that
the tiny, winding access road that enters the village literally traverses a
stone waterfall/spillway where the forest meets the sea. No bridge, just a
shallow stream of water easily driven through. This bit remains exactly the
same.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbmwENdE8SmhJak-XK6ODvXa5XnA2ZV24A5qgHGs9prfu55JX4kZDUdnxGEXlo2IRI3PM4GgkUUVzE4K3_koQCKz2z3i01Tkq4DC9WgIDWee6N7XTVK5LAjZ3RiIBbBjmZaJ1dwxlW8cZ/s1600/Trind15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbmwENdE8SmhJak-XK6ODvXa5XnA2ZV24A5qgHGs9prfu55JX4kZDUdnxGEXlo2IRI3PM4GgkUUVzE4K3_koQCKz2z3i01Tkq4DC9WgIDWee6N7XTVK5LAjZ3RiIBbBjmZaJ1dwxlW8cZ/s1600/Trind15.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That wonderful lunch from years ago.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It was our birthdays when we first visited (as it was,
again, this second time around) and we ate a spectacularly generous and
delicious seafood pasta in a clay pot lunch at a beachside restaurant. I remember
thinking at the time that the restaurant was clearly a “temporary-turned
permanent” type of structure plopped down on the sand just out of reach of the
tide. It was convenient and had great views/ambiance, but it was also an
eyesore on an otherwise pristine tiny beach in a natural area. There were
several such invasive restaurants lining the shore.</div>
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<br /></div>
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This past May we revisited Trindade on a day trip down from a
beach house retreat just outside of Angra dos Reis. It was our birthdays and we
were spending a long week touching base with some of our favorite local gems:
<a href="http://www.ilhagrande.com.br/" target="_blank">Ilha Grande</a>, <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2010/05/visiting-historic-paraty.html" target="_blank">Paraty</a>, <a href="http://www.angra.com.br/home/angra/" target="_blank">Angra do Reis</a> and <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2010/05/getting-to-trindade-and-settling-in.html" target="_blank">Trindade</a>.</div>
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I had my heart set on a return visit to the restaurant for
that amazing seafood pasta.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNjspPeTKvcZd8XS4ECf0CNpVsA_lseLKhv-T58ciFhmmFtn2Zw4jDT64uQIGJVlcO2WxNGUsTJvamhBUALFeWkOShOZvPvTSkCJdBcRjJgfSO-XXwyBkKZWM9p29guIjSlPiwzAYn0-m/s1600/P5190151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSNjspPeTKvcZd8XS4ECf0CNpVsA_lseLKhv-T58ciFhmmFtn2Zw4jDT64uQIGJVlcO2WxNGUsTJvamhBUALFeWkOShOZvPvTSkCJdBcRjJgfSO-XXwyBkKZWM9p29guIjSlPiwzAYn0-m/s1600/P5190151.JPG" height="181" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
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Imagine my surprise (and heartwarming delight) when we hiked
out to the little beach and found it totally bare of any built structures.
None. Nothing. Just a woman selling cold beverages from a cooler – and a
beautiful natural beach!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfdWIMM-1r4LWuD4ZjPhsZDMml1qgPnh_oM6vuHcEK8ZJWn48WUwRf-NX8aO1BDiJKScyhWggCH7db2n25WgjG5aX9jLe2kFv3TTyX2tWOeQrCMIdp3UOwgTrynb6_Q-TD-ZZpwmmvSRvf/s1600/P5190155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfdWIMM-1r4LWuD4ZjPhsZDMml1qgPnh_oM6vuHcEK8ZJWn48WUwRf-NX8aO1BDiJKScyhWggCH7db2n25WgjG5aX9jLe2kFv3TTyX2tWOeQrCMIdp3UOwgTrynb6_Q-TD-ZZpwmmvSRvf/s1600/P5190155.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Could it be? Is it possible? Could <a href="http://www.ibama.gov.br/" target="_blank">IBAMA</a> (the Brazilian
Institute of Environment and Renewable Natural Resources) actually be enforcing
environmental laws? Did IBAMA actually kick squatters (even delicious seafood
pasta making ones) off of environmentally sensitive national forest land?
According to the itinerant cold drinks saleswoman that is exactly what
happened.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ixeU4JtJHve_nijTbrOlgCZMO0FdCYf-ZPCZSpVFk-3_qL8VGtProTFfIkoHuSeIyxG4jnsOqdFU-_C6-3qkoO9XXVoLbf1eGh_5c0pS5YoE6hx4DuUU35AKoHL-IlZK73bKm3XYr6g9/s1600/P5190156.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ixeU4JtJHve_nijTbrOlgCZMO0FdCYf-ZPCZSpVFk-3_qL8VGtProTFfIkoHuSeIyxG4jnsOqdFU-_C6-3qkoO9XXVoLbf1eGh_5c0pS5YoE6hx4DuUU35AKoHL-IlZK73bKm3XYr6g9/s1600/P5190156.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No buildings... yay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1vllcoZxlI1gnWpACHrip0dpCjmXSlhnHOPctyA6XO5R3Gc6vtyZKt-sKiOjzfEghluXvLvPWdQ36vzBnyWdx3EACe_ejjbTF8ve6ZenwfIkJQzQOj9jazocKohcfGoIA-fCyOE8C7DK/s1600/P5190157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1vllcoZxlI1gnWpACHrip0dpCjmXSlhnHOPctyA6XO5R3Gc6vtyZKt-sKiOjzfEghluXvLvPWdQ36vzBnyWdx3EACe_ejjbTF8ve6ZenwfIkJQzQOj9jazocKohcfGoIA-fCyOE8C7DK/s1600/P5190157.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I am standing where the restaurant used to be.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Cue swelling music. Yay! Thank you IBAMA. Thank you Brazil.
Yay!! </div>
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The beach at Trindade (one of them, there are many) the way
it was 20 years ago! Go visit. Go see for yourself.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_XQwnx1BvoGUw1wQFat2xFN1J37YBS-UicOGb1ymRGcvczfUMvX_W-zF_-0zuseOLxaRhVrgQIB6ClT6l7Sgk1ESz177qSnWxACiduj1ASYPorFSr8UORXcuXlIpISOvpd0DtupXUUOW/s1600/P5190154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_XQwnx1BvoGUw1wQFat2xFN1J37YBS-UicOGb1ymRGcvczfUMvX_W-zF_-0zuseOLxaRhVrgQIB6ClT6l7Sgk1ESz177qSnWxACiduj1ASYPorFSr8UORXcuXlIpISOvpd0DtupXUUOW/s1600/P5190154.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up from the water - Luiz is where the restaurants used to be. There are small traces of cement floors still in the sand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Now if we could just put a limit on how many Paulistas can
override the place on a holiday weekend. But hey… I don’t blame them. It is a
beautiful place.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtpopWogiPxI0skzmhUK2PQa1f_gPOdvaBet3cREJjkuEivakoukFAM4Nqj-T3GepcsWhsA7NQgWN6jenJeWVj6uZYEmnEPbN7m66JryH6Yykx-MLLh67UK1gJa5P5g3Jn7UOwzvrszXEG/s1600/P5190174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtpopWogiPxI0skzmhUK2PQa1f_gPOdvaBet3cREJjkuEivakoukFAM4Nqj-T3GepcsWhsA7NQgWN6jenJeWVj6uZYEmnEPbN7m66JryH6Yykx-MLLh67UK1gJa5P5g3Jn7UOwzvrszXEG/s1600/P5190174.JPG" height="236" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this shot of the bus stop at the edge of town.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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And speaking of beautiful getaways that remain natural - don't forget the Juatinga Ecological Reserve that is located along the coast between Trindade and Paraty. <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2013/06/weekend-hike-in-juatinga-ecological.html" target="_blank">We have had some great times there too</a>.</div>
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</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-77880744535553791262014-06-26T08:27:00.000-03:002014-06-26T08:27:31.875-03:00Did I miss the memo?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSjrcPrB_3UAcB7QmvXDqYs4wC7hzMrgOIs-Cg7AXvwBz812zgJEVMiupYI_nFjDgHjIoP_btVgVnfj671eTE_CiRI9EEwysTcNdBVj2LLcuAJYqs-hqeuX7K9v2EjS36szWS-iEfDPOZ/s1600/missed+the+memo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirSjrcPrB_3UAcB7QmvXDqYs4wC7hzMrgOIs-Cg7AXvwBz812zgJEVMiupYI_nFjDgHjIoP_btVgVnfj671eTE_CiRI9EEwysTcNdBVj2LLcuAJYqs-hqeuX7K9v2EjS36szWS-iEfDPOZ/s1600/missed+the+memo.jpg" height="230" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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Living abroad means that sometimes you just don’t get the
memo. In the beginning I was ever-vigilant about things like what time to actually
show up when invited for lunch at 12:30, or how best to befriend your new
housekeeper, communicating respect, without totally freaking her out with your
openness, or who to kiss hello and goodbye (including your dentist or
cardiologist) and with how many slightly audible smacks.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I got the memo in advance about what to take to the beach
(i.e. not a big towel, nor nearly anything else for that matter). My husband
keeps slipping me the memo about flattery working better than sternness every
time I get frustrated with a bank manager. And my mother-in-law has not given
up trying to get me to read the memo about the omnipotence of the Brazilian family
matriarch.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijEIEarh9sOlkr8h5Kzvx9Vk7orhcmjf19KoekITuCnotqqn3d5pnKCJJ0Dbbixg1EFg8LmATL9rgSBtYmqYjn4q7kDXTFtq_2za7EJpCxpwKNwE2Uwx7ZpBn7JZqJ9GuSSp1-icOoe8qI/s1600/speedo+memo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijEIEarh9sOlkr8h5Kzvx9Vk7orhcmjf19KoekITuCnotqqn3d5pnKCJJ0Dbbixg1EFg8LmATL9rgSBtYmqYjn4q7kDXTFtq_2za7EJpCxpwKNwE2Uwx7ZpBn7JZqJ9GuSSp1-icOoe8qI/s1600/speedo+memo.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you are no longer a teenager... wear the Speedo. [These boys look like they need some sunscreen as well!]</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It didn't take long after I starting living here before I
had to decide on which futebol team would be “my team.” Or better put, which
team “was I?” According to the memo, here in Brazil people are not asking you
which team you root for, they want to know which team you are. If you are
asked: “What is your favorite futebol team?” the right answer begins with: “I
am….” <span lang="PT-BR">Nowadays my response is
“Eu sou Flamengo.” “I am Flamengo.” Got it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="PT-BR"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-5b5rBTBgApJFf-3PMirwHTFTo9HQFFxID-aLCkhivqdXJLHaZLYsIRcDjQdaAa6G7-GU5q6936OEHNypoMcOUMPPBWn_iazbZs1AE1S96q9oGzRRPuasB3zOhUITpkbjIHW7EK5T79M/s1600/Brazil+spirit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu-5b5rBTBgApJFf-3PMirwHTFTo9HQFFxID-aLCkhivqdXJLHaZLYsIRcDjQdaAa6G7-GU5q6936OEHNypoMcOUMPPBWn_iazbZs1AE1S96q9oGzRRPuasB3zOhUITpkbjIHW7EK5T79M/s1600/Brazil+spirit.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="PT-BR"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And speaking of futebol, there were a whole bunch of memos
that must have gone out just before the World Cup started. Some I got, like the
one that said to wear green and yellow on all game days. Everyone (EVERYONE),
in <i>any</i> context, seems to have gotten
that memo.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Several of my students slipped me the memo that said all
bets are off regarding scheduled appointments or classes on game days for
Brazil. Plus in Rio – if there is ANY game happening at Maracanã stadium,
chances are businesses are closed (city government offices are certainly
closed) or appointments are cancelled to avoid the craziness on the streets.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXiBbVXBkve1JSfseoNX2ETh_A90679MPPfBInAgg4hG8fs7auTaPbJ1rIHCO4EZKDEFjrs_u_PkcJ1PbrTzLQxrpaQ4yGEhykA78HZHB8BJ3kPcifSelXYhrxH6edEkoUqsatybkWepT/s1600/do+nothing+at+work.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXiBbVXBkve1JSfseoNX2ETh_A90679MPPfBInAgg4hG8fs7auTaPbJ1rIHCO4EZKDEFjrs_u_PkcJ1PbrTzLQxrpaQ4yGEhykA78HZHB8BJ3kPcifSelXYhrxH6edEkoUqsatybkWepT/s1600/do+nothing+at+work.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The one I didn't get (but should have anticipated) is the
one that apparently told most workers that even though their boss will call
them in for half a day on game days, letting them go a few hours before match
time, they really don’t have to actually get any work done. So any attempt by
unfamiliar gringos like me to, say, do some banking, or get a phone company issue
resolved, or speak with a representative from the health insurance company ---
forgeddaboutit.</div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
OK, that’s fine. It's all good. Now I know. I’m not in a hurry anyway… For
all intents and purposes, business in Brazil resumes in mid-July, after the
World Cup has come to a (hopefully glorious) conclusion. Got the memo.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-69159128975106032992014-06-14T13:47:00.000-03:002014-06-14T17:38:08.620-03:00Finding fresh heart of palm<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZi0l3lRxrG0dV_AWSJsYoeqHVSIfxCuKPzVzHusa855wtsnQ1A7cYPh8VTsJmgTRW99NH67NV4luHkFkJM9tS5dmEIOMyq6cvQ0BHMDpO8R428PYUx_Pfov6aa7WaY_1wEbFNg4dFQTm_/s1600/heart+of+palm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZi0l3lRxrG0dV_AWSJsYoeqHVSIfxCuKPzVzHusa855wtsnQ1A7cYPh8VTsJmgTRW99NH67NV4luHkFkJM9tS5dmEIOMyq6cvQ0BHMDpO8R428PYUx_Pfov6aa7WaY_1wEbFNg4dFQTm_/s1600/heart+of+palm.jpg" height="232" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hearts of palm. Yum. I love those little babies. I love them
in a clean fresh salad. They are super yummy roasted. Pasteis de Palmito are to
die for. Palmitos – just plain yum.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I first moved here I was excited by the idea of moving
so close to the source of this delicious harvest. Palm trees. Brazil has a
gazillion palm trees. Heart of palm should be a cheap and abundant yummy treat,
right? Uh, yeah, not so much. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Turns out that Brazil <i>was</i>
one of the biggest “producers” of palm hearts until the 1990s when the “farmers”
realized that they had chopped away at most of the wild supply of suitable palm
trees and their supply was dropping precipitously. At that point they had to
get into the business of actually farming the plant and managing their
harvests. So supply dropped for a while.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt7F-zhMeX1NeJvFtFPJTqCRIaMgrwEsJZo0qgchc0Dqo28jGO6VA7jlmW1r3Tlwbxj93mcML7EJEIxHMtMSDorsUm7hR4KHLESlnT11WN8WHglRxmGe7AkJkZfloqKrJ6t0o_xDXKdEdA/s1600/P6130003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt7F-zhMeX1NeJvFtFPJTqCRIaMgrwEsJZo0qgchc0Dqo28jGO6VA7jlmW1r3Tlwbxj93mcML7EJEIxHMtMSDorsUm7hR4KHLESlnT11WN8WHglRxmGe7AkJkZfloqKrJ6t0o_xDXKdEdA/s1600/P6130003.JPG" height="169" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My purchase. I had the guy machete the edible center out of the outer layers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Not all of the freelance palm poachers took to farming.
Maybe they are out there snatching up wild açai or illegal song birds, or
something. But those that did make the switch have seen things get off to a
(normal) slow start. So prices are not so low. Plus, they export the really
good stuff. So those of us actually living in palm tree heaven wind up paying a
little more for a lesser quality product. Ah Brazil. You sure know how to break
a guy’s heart. (Real heart, not the palm heart.)</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWF3VDEu1u8r0-9Iw64720mtsFZqdiOBzjPirk1MKDLjSxmXTA7Bh35l186MVcniNes_jzrZ2hyRXZvLucFDQrL_bzbnEGlK15DYD6ir6sDb8ZQFxG9mjTH7HC8R4Tg09R-HI-nGhasu7j/s1600/P6130005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWF3VDEu1u8r0-9Iw64720mtsFZqdiOBzjPirk1MKDLjSxmXTA7Bh35l186MVcniNes_jzrZ2hyRXZvLucFDQrL_bzbnEGlK15DYD6ir6sDb8ZQFxG9mjTH7HC8R4Tg09R-HI-nGhasu7j/s1600/P6130005.JPG" height="263" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once cut out the center oxidizes quickly. Gotta get it into water.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At any rate, I saw a vendor at the street market today
selling fresh palm hearts, still in the protective outer layers of non-edible
palm-ness. Excited to see it so fresh, and reasonably priced, I bought a stalk.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I paid R$10 for what resulted in about 420 grams of yummy edibleness.
That compares to a 300g jar sold for R$9. I saved a little more than R$2,
relatively speaking. That 300g jar in the States goes for about US$4.25.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Stop. Stop right there. I see you US Americans doing the
conversion in your head and saying to yourself: “So, hmmm, R$9 a jar there is
just about the same as R$4.25 a jar here. Not bad…” NOPE. It doesn't work that way. First, I am
not a tourist at my grocery store spending my US earned US dollars on a product
priced in Brazilian reais. If I earn my $$ in reais, I spend it in reais. So my
R$9 is R$9. Then you have to consider that wages here are generally speaking
half of what they are in the States for similar work (worse, most often, but
let’s not squabble). So in reality that yummy looking little jar of lesser
quality domestic brand hearts of palm is costing me, in very real terms (so to
speak), a lot more than you in the States are buying it for. Bummer. So much for moving to Brazil to get a
deal on palm hearts.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbERJ3gQFBHzvb-ViaXQLxJTea7hP3K-q5aTfcab1dNjxeHu34OVOfYLJmmD4jt1dGPcRVZ62ZEM3uyQHmDxGafi8PCG7RYAhNw15lrlMSf52V9QxUL50t82-nvjNz7jgaIazLW-Iu472P/s1600/roasted+heart+of+palm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbERJ3gQFBHzvb-ViaXQLxJTea7hP3K-q5aTfcab1dNjxeHu34OVOfYLJmmD4jt1dGPcRVZ62ZEM3uyQHmDxGafi8PCG7RYAhNw15lrlMSf52V9QxUL50t82-nvjNz7jgaIazLW-Iu472P/s1600/roasted+heart+of+palm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How it should look after roasting. Yum.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Ah well. Big deal. The point is – it is yummy! And I got a
big piece of it for a good deal today at my local street fruit and veggies
market. My plan is to chop up half of it for a salad (and to just munch) – and to
oil, salt, pepper, wrap in foil and roast the other half and have it with my
dinner.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was a good day at the market – and tangerines are in
season too!</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-88854469487595263052014-06-04T07:03:00.000-03:002014-06-04T21:47:08.154-03:00Brazil and the double edge sword that is the World Cup<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFifoGl3e0a6kuQ5DoTn65f9JTDBEkxlkcOlLwji2gN0Up_-edP3ywM3acHCkWoxXjHpkssrU7THi-7CtknbitlwlTp1Sl_aJxVznK_NFU-LZ8ZqMO4hXR_o37pj4yYYdR99D3rWFGHKKd/s1600/World-Cup-2014-Brasil-logo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFifoGl3e0a6kuQ5DoTn65f9JTDBEkxlkcOlLwji2gN0Up_-edP3ywM3acHCkWoxXjHpkssrU7THi-7CtknbitlwlTp1Sl_aJxVznK_NFU-LZ8ZqMO4hXR_o37pj4yYYdR99D3rWFGHKKd/s1600/World-Cup-2014-Brasil-logo.jpg" height="320" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this logo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The Expat Blog Police just sent me a final notice. They are
going to take away my membership card if I don’t post about the World Cup
coming to Brazil. </div>
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Everyone has done it. Some bloggers have posted wicked (good
and bad) critiques of FIFA and Brazilian politicians who are milking taxpayers
for money they don’t have to line their pockets in the name of futebol. Other
bloggers have tried to stay positive and posted videos and news bits about
players, teams and home town pride in the lead up to the contest. One big theme
has been the massive public response in Brazil against the wasteful spending on
soon-to-be white elephant mega stadiums (some built in cities that don’t even
have a home futebol team!) at the expense of improvements in healthcare,
education, urban development and other proper priorities.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRMPyxfDM2IWmBIqbohuaM3slxX2rY5heOhoa0q1YWWO4BHA29gP2AKZotgoeEbj8qCveexfGW5nEPHc1jxpSXQ0zH1ZYP1SDqGbCTxIs-jgjhYz74IGV96JQRfcTzI6rMFQq6n2LS1mNr/s1600/world+cup+local.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRMPyxfDM2IWmBIqbohuaM3slxX2rY5heOhoa0q1YWWO4BHA29gP2AKZotgoeEbj8qCveexfGW5nEPHc1jxpSXQ0zH1ZYP1SDqGbCTxIs-jgjhYz74IGV96JQRfcTzI6rMFQq6n2LS1mNr/s1600/world+cup+local.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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My commitment to myself here at Qualidade de Vida has been
to keep it positive. Living abroad, living in Brazil, struggling to learn a new
language and to adapt to new cultural norms – it’s not an easy road. While
there are a ton of really fun and cool things that come your way, there are
also some pretty challenging realities that wear on you. The internet machine
is full of very vocal people griping about how crappy their life has become
since they moved to Brazil and had to turn in their minivan and their dream of
a GE Profile <span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">PFE29PSDSS
refrigerator that automatically fills your water glass without spilling. Truth
be told, there are some realities in Brazil worth griping about. But that makes
for a lousy blog post, in my opinion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">If
you know me you know that I am not a futebol fan. I don’t know the rules of
soccer. I have never watched a basket ball game through in its entirety. The gratuitous
violence in so many hockey games turns me off. The cultural grip American
football has over the social construction of masculinity in the United States
makes me sad. Sports have never been my thing. But hey, I get it that others go
bonkers over this stuff. It’s all good. Go for it. But please don’t be stupid.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzsjtxQ4obQZIM5EV3olyCzx8sssTlwc-6B7l1antew2fVrBBktVt-brIlNW0h4rn2TwNIHLR02z1PGQmJ0GQXmE0pG64FtSfIW2sBbQ7vHwXHMAEMgQE25-Hb_7NLGLBOcQJ1knB_NU_r/s1600/world+cup+fans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzsjtxQ4obQZIM5EV3olyCzx8sssTlwc-6B7l1antew2fVrBBktVt-brIlNW0h4rn2TwNIHLR02z1PGQmJ0GQXmE0pG64FtSfIW2sBbQ7vHwXHMAEMgQE25-Hb_7NLGLBOcQJ1knB_NU_r/s1600/world+cup+fans.jpg" height="136" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">It
seemed to me that the World Cup coming to Brazil was potentially a really good
thing. Brazilians live and breathe futebol in such an all-consuming way that is
difficult (perhaps impossible) to imagine if you don’t live here. This was an
opportunity to put that passion on a world stage and really shine. It was an
opportunity for Brazilians, the vast majority of whom have relatively little to
nothing in terms of daily comforts, to focus on national pride and escape the
hardships of their normal waking hours. Somewhere in here was an opportunity to leverage preparation spending to benefit locals in the long run.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">But
the World Cup is actually a big business venture. Oh yeah, they have international
sports heroes play some games and all, but at the end of the day the event –
the actual nuts and bolts of the event – is a venture capitalist’s wet dream.
And the politicians that get to play with other people’s money? Well they are
like pigs in slop. The television networks will make their money. Coca-cola,
Budweiser and Visa will reinforce their brand to their followers. And large
developers will make a killing on slip shod building projects that shine in the
short term and then sit to decay when the cameras shut off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDRFv56l9GplUx9rlgtn7VyFZXzI3QLmG-yK5kjJQLkNIp971CLreAzcV9Q9jDrbK5HiMiYG8EqGPDCEUqrBAgsFtkms5OULma_1Pq3cMAEUHZZlazO4G9d6Ky6KCgSnL44QGFRwe9-SgS/s1600/world+cup+reality.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDRFv56l9GplUx9rlgtn7VyFZXzI3QLmG-yK5kjJQLkNIp971CLreAzcV9Q9jDrbK5HiMiYG8EqGPDCEUqrBAgsFtkms5OULma_1Pq3cMAEUHZZlazO4G9d6Ky6KCgSnL44QGFRwe9-SgS/s1600/world+cup+reality.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Are
we surprised? Is this unique to Brazil? Sadly no. FIFA has been leaving messes
like this in their wake for a generation. The Olympic Committee comes to mind
as another culprit of capitalizing on the public’s need to escape our daily
drudgery if only for a short while. The Super Bowl folks in the States play
this game, selling struggling communities the “privilege” to wave tax policies
and local environmental ordinances to build unnecessary stadiums with money
they don’t have on the promise of future glory which never comes… blah, blah,
blah.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">For
me the good news is that this kind of corporate greed and political malfeasance
is so in your face that the public gets awakened from their sleep and digs in
for a chance to speak their mind. The communities displaced by developers making
papier mâché facilities stand up and demand to be heard. Tax payers who may
typically let a little corruption with public funds go unanswered suddenly say “enough.”
A population is reminded who is supposed to be in charge and asserts itself to
reestablish that order. Sometimes there is progress. Often times not. But at
least people come alive for a short while and new activists are born.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijftlj5vOb1sHPfwoDZVddkHLecyXjiYk91m9LAd9qvz87ay6SGlaIOlS5-rmJe2wmqgBUdoCURULV-aWZdwOkcwDqmr_uSOinDg2u6WBcLLHbCI03auCwHV83q_DWg5rhEMQp7or4Rnwr/s1600/World+cup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijftlj5vOb1sHPfwoDZVddkHLecyXjiYk91m9LAd9qvz87ay6SGlaIOlS5-rmJe2wmqgBUdoCURULV-aWZdwOkcwDqmr_uSOinDg2u6WBcLLHbCI03auCwHV83q_DWg5rhEMQp7or4Rnwr/s1600/World+cup.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">Brazilians all across the country have been speaking up to say “enough.” There is a long
political tradition here, like in so many developing countries and elsewhere,
of deeply entrenched corruption. It is
endemic in the worst way. The population has largely been beaten into
submission and share a feeling of hopelessness when it comes to politicians
actually doing anything honest or truly good for the people – without also
stealing a boat load of money in the process. But there is also a strong tradition
of rebellion. Brazilians are fighters. Don’t forget it was just 30 years ago,
in 1984, that widespread, organized, public pressure resulted in the brutal
dictatorial government of Brazil surrendering to a popularly installed
democratic administration. The taste of people power still lingers in the
mouths of many present day citizens.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDFkpUl2kd5YsGACT2lxnzx7YPlP2r8IyCilJ5H1LwhXhUhpNB9_T9Cqkvt2njshLQOFQQ3rFdgkJE9uJ84QiT9WWRaAIp_s4tedUVf7LCm-Jm8Q4j_S9NfPkySs3rhZNeAdlalSLKzIj/s1600/world+cup+protest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnDFkpUl2kd5YsGACT2lxnzx7YPlP2r8IyCilJ5H1LwhXhUhpNB9_T9Cqkvt2njshLQOFQQ3rFdgkJE9uJ84QiT9WWRaAIp_s4tedUVf7LCm-Jm8Q4j_S9NfPkySs3rhZNeAdlalSLKzIj/s1600/world+cup+protest.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvp9mdgeXScy5ZUMiuhEoCkN0Q83hbkQczNvDfv1bDQSWRmChRt9BcANNGEJ0MRBdXNnyc6EWSt2yEe8v3AjASi5tRb4jbdIConocXBN73smQG7LE9_pIb4bjFziKrPcO5VS_IkJAE2_7V/s1600/world+cup+heros.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvp9mdgeXScy5ZUMiuhEoCkN0Q83hbkQczNvDfv1bDQSWRmChRt9BcANNGEJ0MRBdXNnyc6EWSt2yEe8v3AjASi5tRb4jbdIConocXBN73smQG7LE9_pIb4bjFziKrPcO5VS_IkJAE2_7V/s1600/world+cup+heros.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Our heroes are teachers, not futebol players."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">The
current repulsive examples of corrupt politicians, greedy investors,
entitled corporations and crony media networks has once again awakened a
sleeping giant in Brazil. Students, urban residents, parents, religious
leaders, artists, native peoples, labor unions… you name it. Look around – folks
are pissed. Some say we are in for another round of people power that will
result in real, lasting and proper changes for the better. Others just sigh and
try to go back to sleep. We’ll see…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6DL1ifFdpxO80yJ-Ubr6jPrlku8wsYaIRCix-TLKezR6bmtPB8NSwV2Ef-pOSYl-yfegLTGw0fPVrtudl21l60fvRf_EZ88QxKmK85Uigk_BJ3BPJR2USJkE7YI1rm-LJya1XPjVMWBK/s1600/world+cup+fan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6DL1ifFdpxO80yJ-Ubr6jPrlku8wsYaIRCix-TLKezR6bmtPB8NSwV2Ef-pOSYl-yfegLTGw0fPVrtudl21l60fvRf_EZ88QxKmK85Uigk_BJ3BPJR2USJkE7YI1rm-LJya1XPjVMWBK/s1600/world+cup+fan.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: Helvetica;">But
the World Cup is coming. Billions have been spent. Sports broadcasters from
around the globe are settling in for a fun ride. Fans are hoping for the best.
And Brazilians still stand among the most enthusiastic fans once their team
takes to the field. Politicians be damned – let’s play some futebol!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-12283161294292000942014-05-29T16:46:00.000-03:002014-05-29T17:09:48.410-03:00Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem in Niterói<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxD7LjcjM6P_v3TrKzj6LxKsI4zADNkMUZdJjeHRI0Q2GHqveoFVwBK_RGdEWB1Ljta4Bw9Jm3gTIaGX925PEfA42fvVdELcIPSuv0uRGJXBuujH6dgXy_x5hYTf1DJ_VYJ1vb13DpMOwF/s1600/P5240202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxD7LjcjM6P_v3TrKzj6LxKsI4zADNkMUZdJjeHRI0Q2GHqveoFVwBK_RGdEWB1Ljta4Bw9Jm3gTIaGX925PEfA42fvVdELcIPSuv0uRGJXBuujH6dgXy_x5hYTf1DJ_VYJ1vb13DpMOwF/s1600/P5240202.JPG" height="185" width="320" /></a></div>
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It’s one of those ideal spots for a church, or a fort. The tiny
Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem church, which has <a href="http://www.niteroiturismo.com.br/port/aondeir_igrej_nsboaviagem.htm" target="_blank">a long, storied history</a>, has
survived nearly 350 years perched atop a tiny island just inside the mouth of
Rio’s Guanabara Bay.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjUR8whWT_8UG-tN3tGt1HP9BKqUAsf0SXPQ5EFqC_PV4TZ-OXnIDeX3e6urygy0GBIDmAkpNmim6ccwG23kIiy9IzB0Ovr6fhRzqvS1vkBT7T2wWZTr9boRjsgMAMA3B4D9cjsqOEeC2/s1600/niteroi+nossa+senhora+church.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjUR8whWT_8UG-tN3tGt1HP9BKqUAsf0SXPQ5EFqC_PV4TZ-OXnIDeX3e6urygy0GBIDmAkpNmim6ccwG23kIiy9IzB0Ovr6fhRzqvS1vkBT7T2wWZTr9boRjsgMAMA3B4D9cjsqOEeC2/s1600/niteroi+nossa+senhora+church.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And that's the Christ the Redeemer statue perch in Rio way off in the distance in the center of the photo.</td></tr>
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You can see the church just across the water from our
neighborhood Icaraí beach. It occupies what is now the background to the more
popular photo of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscar_Niemeyer" target="_blank">Oscar Neimeyer’s</a> iconic <a href="http://www.macniteroi.com.br/" target="_blank">Contemporary Art Museum</a> building. I’ve always
wanted to visit the site but it was either closed to the public awaiting yet
another round of restoration work or the access gate was locked shut.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZvxatEHNdltvpZvrUNdiBpVeG3UHMybKH6eg6KzB1gDxU6nfm1BWrbpCvRABWYSFpAf31qCa0oTkzT3j3aHjnh-CfqT26BJ5pLwSG6lsie6CyXKKnLtGUsd9UkFf9bBRCfV03DVrnRK5/s1600/P5240206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZvxatEHNdltvpZvrUNdiBpVeG3UHMybKH6eg6KzB1gDxU6nfm1BWrbpCvRABWYSFpAf31qCa0oTkzT3j3aHjnh-CfqT26BJ5pLwSG6lsie6CyXKKnLtGUsd9UkFf9bBRCfV03DVrnRK5/s1600/P5240206.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This access bridge to the island was built in the 1970s.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lJ83sFAI5U_L6hA0ziBo2-_yACBNEUs0LnfPRkYcxzqAC0Bt1meTDb6IbPrYIvb7f3bJRHY54V0GIkNiEx8DWmSd0hZgm_KmNnpcg3t9wNqog7tpLyhVd4_JYfAVoDRgnGUNWYBRICZi/s1600/P5240207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lJ83sFAI5U_L6hA0ziBo2-_yACBNEUs0LnfPRkYcxzqAC0Bt1meTDb6IbPrYIvb7f3bJRHY54V0GIkNiEx8DWmSd0hZgm_KmNnpcg3t9wNqog7tpLyhVd4_JYfAVoDRgnGUNWYBRICZi/s1600/P5240207.JPG" height="320" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rare day when this gate is unlocked.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJhXhAA3keyg0NWkKO5HmThlY-z6Ea72txSbdtsR91Tnhw3Pn-wMhyphenhyphenAwXB6Ku9LzfyfOgmdt-UQjbZZtxOv9gYmlnAJralbZKjFpGssrOTzsOLLi5hnLKVZ0cVpa4xDwBPwkQkUdquJnTV/s1600/P5240213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJhXhAA3keyg0NWkKO5HmThlY-z6Ea72txSbdtsR91Tnhw3Pn-wMhyphenhyphenAwXB6Ku9LzfyfOgmdt-UQjbZZtxOv9gYmlnAJralbZKjFpGssrOTzsOLLi5hnLKVZ0cVpa4xDwBPwkQkUdquJnTV/s1600/P5240213.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06nW9MNdU-Byhn2Xly1xfg4hLdfqeep_5qxQZaIL33XMxgaItzRji2RFs2iv_ziYcr_uC6VzVTeF-A2f3KgQkYD7LqtVSHT5smtEm-1JZEzetTXPTdpuGrZHJFevllh9WpAgnLB3V1WEY/s1600/P5240216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06nW9MNdU-Byhn2Xly1xfg4hLdfqeep_5qxQZaIL33XMxgaItzRji2RFs2iv_ziYcr_uC6VzVTeF-A2f3KgQkYD7LqtVSHT5smtEm-1JZEzetTXPTdpuGrZHJFevllh9WpAgnLB3V1WEY/s1600/P5240216.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a long way up a very old stone walkway.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6VZ1l2QvMftxzvVSQGRMMfe4OT1p1e2y9et650V_ZsL-SNNC3KpHFw8y0Zg4hD0eBpOiz5aZ0W1NJIcOG8nM9ia9SILoYnoT_guNsAC5pud1oqt7nP8D5AYsGaVhw5i5t3gwaAqrAyAd/s1600/P5240222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6VZ1l2QvMftxzvVSQGRMMfe4OT1p1e2y9et650V_ZsL-SNNC3KpHFw8y0Zg4hD0eBpOiz5aZ0W1NJIcOG8nM9ia9SILoYnoT_guNsAC5pud1oqt7nP8D5AYsGaVhw5i5t3gwaAqrAyAd/s1600/P5240222.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now that the church has been brought back to working order
it is only open to the public one Sunday a month. This past Sunday was my
chance to see it up close, and to get spectacular views of Rio, the bay and
back at Niterói.</div>
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Originally commissioned in December, 1663, the church was
eventually completed in 1734. Over the centuries it was expanded, burned to the
ground, rebuilt, handed over from one custodian to another, abandoned, rebuilt,
closed again and finally maintained by a local Boys Club chapter on a minimal
stipend from the city.<br />
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It’s a cute, if nondescript, little chapel. This church is
really all about location. </div>
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To visit the island and the church plan your trip for the
fourth Sunday of the month. The gate is opened in the morning, mass is
celebrated at 10:00 a.m., and then the gate gets closed up in early evening.</div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-63186539924428204122014-04-30T07:38:00.000-03:002014-04-30T13:21:54.723-03:00Brazil is changing before my eyes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKTwkASWACiw-LmeitHjtdmYGapJdSC_zCFN2O4f-3J3AZHzdX2yRteTGUp4d9ZZDybYEA1V-oqVy5Urdf-T9sCOfSlb4T4CygeinM7z20XMldvnejiNV_PZFhpoboGClYRTTBYDBpIKxW/s1600/Truck+in+Boa+Esperanca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKTwkASWACiw-LmeitHjtdmYGapJdSC_zCFN2O4f-3J3AZHzdX2yRteTGUp4d9ZZDybYEA1V-oqVy5Urdf-T9sCOfSlb4T4CygeinM7z20XMldvnejiNV_PZFhpoboGClYRTTBYDBpIKxW/s1600/Truck+in+Boa+Esperanca.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As I remember it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My first visit to Brazil was in 1999. Luiz and I had met
early in the year in San Francisco, CA and he soon thereafter began encouraging
me to buy a plane ticket to Rio to join him on the beach in Copacabana on NYE
for the millennial fireworks. Tempting as it was I was hesitant to lock in a
plane ticket months in advance for a trip with a guy I was not sure I would
still want to be spending time with. Little did I know Luiz has an instinct for
these sorts of things. I’m glad I secured a seat on that plane.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Brazil has changed a lot in the past 14+ years. Some of the
things that enamored me with the country at first blush have since faded into
history, like the relative lawlessness in everyday life and the liberty that it
provided. But also, some of the things that have begun to fade into history
have been met with relief, like the relative lawlessness in everyday life that
is better suited to a vacation than a daily living situation.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhEcBZd72Vz0huYARpmRGC0rKElaNEorf5XWOTyKSc6KZG4TFDJADVLpcQxhNGNZarks-1t7s-6A8qBB-uvcsuH84dPEIny_dbA2hmXdCHI4nUqx-hgKaSJyj7XAIzd1QT-IEju0YBqpR/s1600/Bull+family+house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhEcBZd72Vz0huYARpmRGC0rKElaNEorf5XWOTyKSc6KZG4TFDJADVLpcQxhNGNZarks-1t7s-6A8qBB-uvcsuH84dPEIny_dbA2hmXdCHI4nUqx-hgKaSJyj7XAIzd1QT-IEju0YBqpR/s1600/Bull+family+house.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The town matriarch's house is closed up now.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Luiz and I spent this past long Easter weekend with friends
in one of our favorite nearby mountain villages: Boa Esperança. I can’t say for
sure, but I think the year-round resident population is something like a few
hundred, if you also include the dogs, horses and VW Beetles. As tiny
and remote as it is, Boa Esperança has certainly changed in recent years.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLSgfQpV_tgBWXuqmwSPQRO_yhLrfMPHpqcHTeN1b-OsgEs1J0Ot5OzIYr3t9mBKHtZR8ywGbwMzhlsD-l-aJkjjyYMUETJ0YS2oFWymkNCJq3Qcd0Xn3KEXxMIl-Zv7qGrPQXCLNPC1bl/s1600/P4220042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLSgfQpV_tgBWXuqmwSPQRO_yhLrfMPHpqcHTeN1b-OsgEs1J0Ot5OzIYr3t9mBKHtZR8ywGbwMzhlsD-l-aJkjjyYMUETJ0YS2oFWymkNCJq3Qcd0Xn3KEXxMIl-Zv7qGrPQXCLNPC1bl/s1600/P4220042.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dora and Sergão have upgraded their rental from a teeny tiny place to this beautiful three bedroom palace.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s not a big thing (well, maybe it is). Not too much has
changed. But you can definitely feel change/progress/lost simplicity in the
air.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UFdf1GmpTzpwCely8PnY-t6nKL4hBYZv5Jc0fA7n8UKAKS4D9sUmc00dCCkiKG0axTf0LRW1H2N1GRvrmqQrwF7nQfPtXIl_s-yIGo8QpzSBXJKN2V-kKJ8cKW6LL9c-HCZ_RrpyjKMO/s1600/Dirt+Road+Boa+Esperanca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9UFdf1GmpTzpwCely8PnY-t6nKL4hBYZv5Jc0fA7n8UKAKS4D9sUmc00dCCkiKG0axTf0LRW1H2N1GRvrmqQrwF7nQfPtXIl_s-yIGo8QpzSBXJKN2V-kKJ8cKW6LL9c-HCZ_RrpyjKMO/s1600/Dirt+Road+Boa+Esperanca.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old dirt road is history.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY43W5liJhFsmL0bYGrwcf2bUBd_-Th-qpzKSM8CFAZJ8EgXnycHfHWhH5tLwlO7iygpUwjQzAQmtSAiKS9OB-ta_AjpvQUTLO2MjJ_PyZuP9OVyxaPU6sK-R9FDXsSlwgjnbXhmfz0g9-/s1600/P4200015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY43W5liJhFsmL0bYGrwcf2bUBd_-Th-qpzKSM8CFAZJ8EgXnycHfHWhH5tLwlO7iygpUwjQzAQmtSAiKS9OB-ta_AjpvQUTLO2MjJ_PyZuP9OVyxaPU6sK-R9FDXsSlwgjnbXhmfz0g9-/s1600/P4200015.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now the road is paved. But the air continues to be crystal clear.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Local residents are happy about the recent paving of the
road up from neighboring Lumiar. The asphalt now extends all the way to the
final intersection in town (although it does not branch outward onto intersecting
residential roads). At least now the bus can reach its turnaround point without
herniating the spinal disks of its passengers. This is a great improvement if
you live there. For us occasional visitors it has removed some of the romance.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnFbXhWWJESGTOlPuukOE6GQRlKeLNUUVXynJ6rnedOxMer0-TIi5quNmEXZ3jRD9C44q-4rBhSMU74UQwunUGbTHYWtvpIXMEk9dVGZQgqImy3xVNiqhJQbam99Bavkdsy9CJn5FwdA_5/s1600/Boa+Esperanca+waterfall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnFbXhWWJESGTOlPuukOE6GQRlKeLNUUVXynJ6rnedOxMer0-TIi5quNmEXZ3jRD9C44q-4rBhSMU74UQwunUGbTHYWtvpIXMEk9dVGZQgqImy3xVNiqhJQbam99Bavkdsy9CJn5FwdA_5/s1600/Boa+Esperanca+waterfall.jpg" height="320" width="245" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The waterfall on private land a good 1,000 meters up the
mountain beyond the end of the pavement has morphed into a more developed
family picnic spot. Gone are the days of calling out a hello to the owner and
his wife when entering, swimming alone in the waterfall, and then being among
just your friends and a few additional folks back in the picnic area. Now there
is a full-on bar and luncheonette with extensive seating. The newly improved
cement path that steeply descends from the access road to the property helps you
not rip apart another pair of flip flops. But, unfortunately, now there is a
young man sitting at a plastic patio table at the bottom ready to collect a R$3
entrance fee. I don’t blame the family for commercializing their hidden
treasure. It is a good idea and it was bound to happen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdDxT1MQr0-xqtfrak4Wjysd0GOs6wqSQkC2Y59Ff0PnW0vNsjnucbVFXyKnXfMGIjCW2PPetG1mW5yhntXOohsKT2c51m5m-Sd3rP1xJ_QMJiOKj3hCD0VelHdLc_0brQkAIVWgx2s80/s1600/P4190008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizdDxT1MQr0-xqtfrak4Wjysd0GOs6wqSQkC2Y59Ff0PnW0vNsjnucbVFXyKnXfMGIjCW2PPetG1mW5yhntXOohsKT2c51m5m-Sd3rP1xJ_QMJiOKj3hCD0VelHdLc_0brQkAIVWgx2s80/s1600/P4190008.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I just miss how it used to be. Sappy, I know.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our decision to move to Brazil 6 years ago was rooted in
family obligations, a desire for a lifestyle change, and plain ol’ whimsical
adventurousness. The simpler nature of much of the Brazil we have chosen to
surround ourselves with has been a balm on many levels. I get it that time
rolls along and things progress. Far be it for me to dismiss the very real
improvements in people’s lives that things like paved roads, nearby health
clinics or internet access provide. I’m generally pro-development.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR8aXF8DSARUmMd6VUt-sNQ9AyGTJSuHWc9L2fwT2RK4hglcPk2YqEJ098PZqkXUhZ9ZwSofHy1_aN0V7aOh3mfQ9FwPCWACYpeMa2DeZwUd1pgclkLfRLCFMPtkJpHZqO4hFG0-3WNZLn/s1600/P4220063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR8aXF8DSARUmMd6VUt-sNQ9AyGTJSuHWc9L2fwT2RK4hglcPk2YqEJ098PZqkXUhZ9ZwSofHy1_aN0V7aOh3mfQ9FwPCWACYpeMa2DeZwUd1pgclkLfRLCFMPtkJpHZqO4hFG0-3WNZLn/s1600/P4220063.JPG" height="320" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At least the banana trees are still giving bananas the good old fashion way.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A lot can be written about the changes I have seen these
past 14 years through my significantly narrow experience since we became full
time residents. Perhaps this post will elicit from me a longer essay on just
that topic. At this point let it suffice to say that Luiz and I choose to
surround ourselves with the better nature of rural communities, focus on our
relationships with friends who share our values, and live in the present,
resisting the temptation to surge ahead into a new Brazil that we fear will
come to look all too much like the US we left behind.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-54695875461368305802014-04-13T13:27:00.000-03:002014-04-13T14:00:33.819-03:00Room available in Rio for the World Cup<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTT8Sqrq-EWeS_eHaW9KVNcZ3PcChUOcHQ38qD7R69RV5xOtCyZY3I1qin4Re9e3qBoOoTPZXmRx8GrDsRESKzaO9GDNLOeTficZbO1KwjmHLj08NMDh9H_uVS5TVjHjiTLt82usm0tZWq/s1600/world+cup+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTT8Sqrq-EWeS_eHaW9KVNcZ3PcChUOcHQ38qD7R69RV5xOtCyZY3I1qin4Re9e3qBoOoTPZXmRx8GrDsRESKzaO9GDNLOeTficZbO1KwjmHLj08NMDh9H_uVS5TVjHjiTLt82usm0tZWq/s1600/world+cup+2014.jpg" height="176" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Those are the magic words so many people are trying to hear.
As the World Cup approaches the frenzy to tie down suitable housing
arrangements all over Brazil has reached a fever pitch. Take a breath. Cool
down. I've got some practical advice to help you find the room you require.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There are still great rooms available (<a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2736105" target="_blank">like this one</a>, for
example). And dare I say it: there will likely still be rooms to find even
after the Cup has begun. Let me lay it out.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
First things first. If you are looking for that nice hotel
in the popular Copacabana/Ipanema/Leblon tourist-friendly beach side zone in
Rio, well then, you probably should have had your people call their people a
long time ago. Reports that “all” of the hotel rooms in Rio are booked started
coming out weeks ago. The easy stuff in the nice locations are gone. Period.
Let it go. Just going to a hotel website and booking a room is no longer an
option. You can take a little solace in knowing that the folks who got those
rooms paid through the nose for them. Hotels have been shameless in their
inflated pricing and minimum stay requirements. Chances are great you will
ultimately wind up with a perfectly suitable place for a lot less money.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrsJ0qmwjxiJ12m68gGjgvDwC9hPgCM2sn6K40RHLVw4BvPjAu75ebBvUKIJ2qOIe6ZEqbDjPPJvyYSLe1MgJqrcMWIHrT_N_qN5XhEHBkKOr85t64nAKV1FNZ_UG4X2TdfZ_2PK0qML0/s1600/Keep+calm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYrsJ0qmwjxiJ12m68gGjgvDwC9hPgCM2sn6K40RHLVw4BvPjAu75ebBvUKIJ2qOIe6ZEqbDjPPJvyYSLe1MgJqrcMWIHrT_N_qN5XhEHBkKOr85t64nAKV1FNZ_UG4X2TdfZ_2PK0qML0/s1600/Keep+calm.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So now what? What’s a Cup fan to do? Let’s get real,
practical and specific – and get off the well-worn hotel path. Luiz and I have
traveled to many corners of the globe during all seasons of the year. We generally
travel on a limited budget prioritizing our safety while also not being shy about
staying somewhere completely unexpected. Here are several approaches that have
worked for us that may well help you secure your booking.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjJJLS1e8L7G1uY3wdLeWpjchvHZkPxJziVxeE7seTZOJ9Tun7Ts5OFe1bmW40sOc5xh8CDZ1ykDRgoCifVDW8KVrS87OrGv7BYY409r6tAJc379khu1XZtQ6sXdpMsnZO1m0vi7QcYLV/s1600/map+of+rio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjJJLS1e8L7G1uY3wdLeWpjchvHZkPxJziVxeE7seTZOJ9Tun7Ts5OFe1bmW40sOc5xh8CDZ1ykDRgoCifVDW8KVrS87OrGv7BYY409r6tAJc379khu1XZtQ6sXdpMsnZO1m0vi7QcYLV/s1600/map+of+rio.jpg" height="166" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is cute, but it is not a good map. Get a good map.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Before we get into it- get a map. Get a good map, not a tourist map that makes Rio look like just three rich neighborhoods with beaches plus outlying areas. Open up your map and
locate where you <b><i>need</i></b> to go while at your location, where you <b><i>prefer</i></b>
to stay, and where you <b><i>would consider</i></b> staying. Then
identify the bus, Metro and taxi routes that weave in and around those areas.
If there is a subway system (Metro), and of course Rio has one but there may be
readers looking beyond Rio, then expand your “would consider” areas to include
those areas around Metro stops that are perhaps further out than you had first
considered. The subway will whisk you about very quickly, so being further out
is compensated for. The larger your area under consideration the larger your
chances of thoughtful, realistic success.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And don’t stop at city boundaries. Places like Niterói, for
example, may be a neighboring city to Rio but travel times to and from matches will
actually be faster from some areas in Niterói than from some (seemingly more desirable)
areas within Rio. Traffic and transportation routes can easily warp travel
times. And traffic within the city proper can be nightmarish. In the case of
Rio and Niterói there is a ferry service between them that often trims 20 – 30
minutes or more off taking a car, taxi or bus between the same points.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Private rentals<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Utilize the websites that post private homes and rooms
within homes for rent. Places like <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/" target="_blank">Airbnb</a>, <a href="http://www.homeaway.com/" target="_blank">HomeAway</a>, and <a href="http://www.misterbnb.com/en/index.html" target="_blank">misterbnb</a>, to name a
few, are part of a growing number of “vacation rentals” websites growing in
popularity. These sites are great for connecting you directly with people who
have opened up their home/apartment or a room therein in locations in and around where
you want to be. (Normally I would suggest checking out the <a href="https://www.couchsurfing.org/" target="_blank">couchsurfing</a> website
for more options, but I have heard again and again in recent weeks that this
option is pretty well sewn up.) The vast majority of hosts and guests that
utilize these services report having a flawless experience and guests often
report enjoying the accommodations better than the typical (and typically more
expensive) hotel room.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcDLAAXx9yp84RTwBhPQhg6QiUElZ_eG5qjTXZncLE1J9JhR6LF2yHAnlcJWID9oiyxNn88WDZ6fWAsN5najUIAxE6BA9wArr5gmWUphsjMVnbYQTs8hszC_RZinVkmFrt3rM4W8d46T0v/s1600/room2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcDLAAXx9yp84RTwBhPQhg6QiUElZ_eG5qjTXZncLE1J9JhR6LF2yHAnlcJWID9oiyxNn88WDZ6fWAsN5najUIAxE6BA9wArr5gmWUphsjMVnbYQTs8hszC_RZinVkmFrt3rM4W8d46T0v/s1600/room2.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This looks pretty typical for a living and kitchen space in a regular one or two bedroom apartment.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nNWBnsIj7NMuB9YzmvlYUaSi0puqRM0uTLp9lLTcw5cD-LsBXHdhwRE3NB2hCVFGCNi12E2A_WIUp4uUSG9b3uS4j1DpToeCjFyAvSHekXcD7L6mEAhZFaj3lqqUDD_-MCIze5lNmbDh/s1600/room8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_nNWBnsIj7NMuB9YzmvlYUaSi0puqRM0uTLp9lLTcw5cD-LsBXHdhwRE3NB2hCVFGCNi12E2A_WIUp4uUSG9b3uS4j1DpToeCjFyAvSHekXcD7L6mEAhZFaj3lqqUDD_-MCIze5lNmbDh/s1600/room8.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a little more on the higher end of things.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The prices listed by hosts at these sites during the month
of the World Cup vary from the <b><i>ridiculously expensive, </i></b>often posted
by those looking to cash in on the “screw-the-tourists” WC fever going on here,
to the <b><i>great value</i></b> room that offers more than a hotel for less money,
to the <b><i>VERY cheap</i></b> opportunity that is perfectly doable but may be in a location or situation
you had not previously considered - and is available if you just choose to give
it a go. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Be sure to expand your search criteria on these sites to
include any neighboring cities you have under consideration.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The great thing about these self-hosting sites is that just
as you have been procrastinating to finally nail down your housing, so have
home hosts been procrastinating to finally post their unit or room for rent, so
new good stuff, often in great locations, continues to appear. If you don’t
find anything one day, continue to visit the site and watch for new listings.
Once a first-time host books their apartment they will tell their friends and
get them on board for listing theirs as well, so another great place may open
up soon thereafter. Monitor these sites over time. Luiz and I have a room in
our apartment that is available. Check out our listing <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2736105" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
OK, so that was an obvious option. Here’s another route that
produces fresh results that may be off the organized room-rental grid. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Social networking <o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Duh… Capitalize on the networks you have in place for work
and your personal life. Utilize those online social networking sites. I am a
member of several Facebook Groups in the Rio area that connect gringos,
including groups related to cooking and dining, “garage sale”- stuff for sale,
employment networking, bloggers, expats, etc. These groups are comprised of
folks on the ground in Rio and beyond that can quickly expand your eyes and
ears when searching for a place to rent. Just last week one group member
mentioned that they had a couple friends from Europe looking for a place and
within a few hours a half dozen group members posted that they had rooms or
entire apartments for rent. Drill down into these sites. Search for relevant
groups and politely post your needs. If they are closed groups see if the
administrator will let you make a one-time post. Be friendly and fun – don’t be
an ugly troll. Match the vibe of the group you are poking your head into. Many of these groups prohibit posting solicitations, so consider reaching out to members to make a personal connection and then make your request for local assistance in a private message.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8FlT9Fw1ci61otOzXuVO39uo15OQzzJI8QVryzxNpIEctnTGE3YgfYMxNNgVmYQyk1jNcC6YF2HIILcbXIxnjPN256qXcfvlr1vpaKPXQ17L7-hQDZCP91xiqvLNyTgCIA40LVgK0nKEb/s1600/room1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8FlT9Fw1ci61otOzXuVO39uo15OQzzJI8QVryzxNpIEctnTGE3YgfYMxNNgVmYQyk1jNcC6YF2HIILcbXIxnjPN256qXcfvlr1vpaKPXQ17L7-hQDZCP91xiqvLNyTgCIA40LVgK0nKEb/s1600/room1.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple room on the higher end.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
As usual, asking everyone you know to ask everyone they know
will do wonders for your search.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Utilize forums on
travel sites<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sites like <a href="https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/americas-south-america/brazil" target="_blank">Lonely Planet</a>, <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g303506-i1199-Rio_de_Janeiro_State_of_Rio_de_Janeiro.html" target="_blank">TripAdvisor</a>. <a href="http://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/brazil/" target="_blank">Fodor’sTravel</a>,
<a href="http://forum.virtualtourist.com/Rio_de_Janeiro-1504237-7/forum.html" target="_blank">VirtualTourist</a>, etc. have forums (discussion boards) where travelers ask
questions of each other and self-appointed helpful locals. The people who frequent
these forums as helpers are usually very eager to offer advice to others.
Locate the forums section and key into the city you are targeting (I've linked to Rio above). You can post
your need for a room or an apartment to rent there. Also request any insider
tips folks may have for those off-the-grid options in those cities.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9AOO2_hw75_nnMXKTlYI7uBqU4_3Y7hiK1LxbKRvp10JcBUEsE71lcpaJwK73AyVM1_K5bbXKD2-iqxhJhuU09q8qMOCLJOmFhJI9uUFY6ltgATEYcArYI2qLtGdHhrM9KqWTQQxDlax2/s1600/room10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9AOO2_hw75_nnMXKTlYI7uBqU4_3Y7hiK1LxbKRvp10JcBUEsE71lcpaJwK73AyVM1_K5bbXKD2-iqxhJhuU09q8qMOCLJOmFhJI9uUFY6ltgATEYcArYI2qLtGdHhrM9KqWTQQxDlax2/s1600/room10.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty typical efficiency kitchen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZlwPQo0sgJ2m7s8lwqe2JZlEPqjBWx6aPXjo1l9MG1628p3ktCdmuFL87kAImR6Wu-eXNQMgD-OFQJk0Rg7N6q4IX4Lame__Yq00NBD6exmbohSDvlbbSXn04W2JF4juvhmlGMzAL8jsj/s1600/room5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZlwPQo0sgJ2m7s8lwqe2JZlEPqjBWx6aPXjo1l9MG1628p3ktCdmuFL87kAImR6Wu-eXNQMgD-OFQJk0Rg7N6q4IX4Lame__Yq00NBD6exmbohSDvlbbSXn04W2JF4juvhmlGMzAL8jsj/s1600/room5.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Newer two or three bedroom apartments may have a kitchen like this.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I have seen multiple posts lately, at several of the forums
I haunt, from World Cup visitors who have already booked space but their travel
companions have bailed on them. So now they are looking to hook up with other
travelers at the last minute to fill out the space and share the costs already
incurred. So it is worth checking in at these sites periodically to see if
fellow travelers are looking for you. If you post a request for help or reply
to a comment already on the board you can have notice of subsequent comments
sent to your email, so you can post requests at multiple sites and not have to
circle back and check them all the time.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Consider staying in a
favela community<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Rio’s favelas (usually defined as poor, slum areas) get a
pretty nasty rep in the international press. Heck, most of the time they get a
wicked nasty rep in our local press. To the uninformed person looking from the
outside in most favelas can look like pretty intimidating, nasty and dicey
places. That may be, in fact, an accurate
description for many, many such areas. But there are exceptions. For good or
for bad there have been municipally organized incursions into several of Rio’s
favela communities by police forces to “pacify” these areas. The stated
intention is to win back control of these communities for law-abiding residents
and to deny that control to drug traffickers and their minions. This effort has
been met with mixed reactions by residents and mixed results by police. Let’s
just save that discussion for another time. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For our purposes here it is worth noting that there are
indeed some areas in some favelas in Rio that offer very good and relatively
safe accommodation opportunities during the Cup. Many poor neighborhoods are
just neighborhoods with poor folks living there. Not much drama. And those
folks often have perfectly comfortable housing which some are opening up to
visitors to rent during their stay in Rio.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Check out <a href="http://favelaexperience.com/#top" target="_blank">Favela Experience’s World Cup Accommodations</a> website
for some unlikely yet terrific options. I will remind you that most of the rich
folks in Rio live down by the water/beach. The poor folks live in the favelas
that have been climbing up the steep hillsides for decades. That means the
favela residents have all the killer views.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9KYHmUrfgbf4YQwDqPZoHhwVuV8xdwzQqlPlGszcqrLomw9yK-_RYJahINUmFXrWLv23wvxDUtEp1Q5YF9070l5TbIyTbR3YFmqY3eG41A5iy8kZCg6BHt81HrOCMwp2NQgYJmibBEyLI/s1600/room13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9KYHmUrfgbf4YQwDqPZoHhwVuV8xdwzQqlPlGszcqrLomw9yK-_RYJahINUmFXrWLv23wvxDUtEp1Q5YF9070l5TbIyTbR3YFmqY3eG41A5iy8kZCg6BHt81HrOCMwp2NQgYJmibBEyLI/s1600/room13.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVAt3hTvPbbBvXpNsFilQd3Saq16o58tRDANoOGgx6n3U3JduQvVjHmdungfedrOvA1gbSrJzQHMVu_GLkcau1BCSnUeh5YzVRYszG904IXRukdJ13C5Z0O3n6JJxELW-6leh-QeN2hAcI/s1600/rooms13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVAt3hTvPbbBvXpNsFilQd3Saq16o58tRDANoOGgx6n3U3JduQvVjHmdungfedrOvA1gbSrJzQHMVu_GLkcau1BCSnUeh5YzVRYszG904IXRukdJ13C5Z0O3n6JJxELW-6leh-QeN2hAcI/s1600/rooms13.jpg" height="127" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Book a room in a favela and prepare to have your
preconceptions shattered.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Work it out on foot<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Yep. That’s right. Just show up and figure it out. It can be
done. It works. But it is not for everyone.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is where I offer my pep talk about the power of
personality: your self confidence that allows you to go this route; your
gregariousness that enables you to speak to practically everyone you meet to
ask for their help; and your gut feeling that keeps you calm and safe in
situations that you may not have planned to be in. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This
fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants approach to traveling is not new or all that
rare. But it is not for everyone.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In our experience, between Luiz and I, we have found
perfectly suitable and quite reasonably priced rooms upon arrival in P-Town,
Massachusetts during the 4<sup>th</sup> of July weekend, in Cabo Frio, Brazil
during Carnaval and in Venice, Italy the day before Carnavale. ALL of those
situations are simply written off as a fool’s errand by armchair travelers who
insist on booking ahead.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNADfUPqbZ6u3ZPhOZ7IQxIsjuSIqdBtIiz9bAvJ2mj8eRECo4jc5AOjj06uyceHP5YQ2deMJfi0bSfj_0_hNyRyyv5YflcaQHTaOBpR52ijwUl_GPoJE8H1n4BZt-G5h6HLqNA4Uu03G/s1600/room14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXNADfUPqbZ6u3ZPhOZ7IQxIsjuSIqdBtIiz9bAvJ2mj8eRECo4jc5AOjj06uyceHP5YQ2deMJfi0bSfj_0_hNyRyyv5YflcaQHTaOBpR52ijwUl_GPoJE8H1n4BZt-G5h6HLqNA4Uu03G/s1600/room14.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The thing to keep in mind is that there are most certainly
more rooms available than most people know how to access. I once found a room
in the Latin Quarter in Paris upon arrival and paid less than half of what I
would have paid for most anything available online in advance. I had to walk
down a few side streets and inquire at a number of unlikely places, but it
panned out in less than a few hours.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Many, many local hotels do not have a website or are not
even on consolidated business association websites. So searching for space via
the internet shows only a portion of what’s out there. You need to walk up and
down every street in your (prioritized) “preferred” or “would consider”
neighborhoods and stop at every hotel and inquire. If they are full, ask where
they might suggest you look. Just because a hotel is relatively invisible
beyond its front door does not necessarily mean it is not worth staying at.
Certainly preview the rooms, but keep an open mind. You may be very pleasantly
surprised. The available room may have a balcony overlooking a magical hidden
garden area. Many family owned hotels are just not working the business
networking thing. There are scores of these types of hotels in Rio.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The trick behind making this pressured search work is: <b>a)</b>
trust you will find a room, <b>b)</b> travel light so you can search without lugging
around multiple pieces of luggage, <b>c)</b> give yourself some time to search before
it gets dark. Don’t arrive at 5 p.m. and expect success before the sun goes
down. <b>d)</b> speak to EVERYONE you come in contact with and ask for help, <b>e)</b> if you
find a place that is fully occupied, question everyone there about their ideas
for where else to look (once a clerk at a small hotel in Cusco, Peru agreed to
call her brother at another hotel which lead us to a tip that paid off), <b>f)</b>
include in your requests for help a friendly suggestion that you would pay to
be a home guest at their place or the place of someone they might suggest
(again, this has worked out well for us in the past), <b>g)</b> don’t give up easily.
Enjoy the hunt. Rather than get all stressed, know that it is going to take
time and effort and just pace yourself. Take in the neighborhood feel and
notice the architecture around you. Stop for lunch or a coffee, etc. It’s only
a fool’s errand if you give up too easily and act the fool while looking.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One of our best week long stays came about by meeting
someone at an ice cream parlor who, after chatting for a bit, offered to move
her and her baby out of her home and into her mother’s place to then rent us
her house. She needed the money and we needed a place to stay. Win, win. Plus
we had all the conveniences of home. Then there was the time in relatively
rural Turkey where our inquiring around for a great place for dinner resulted
in a guy giving us a ride (to and from) his brother’s restaurant a few miles
away. The food was excellent. People who need the money will help you find a
solution. Wear a smile and talk to everyone. And have fun with it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfsA77Qr4tvxv1TJ3GTSzjrbEWadl43f_KlaWc45cerETo5bhWVAu2cOHuAn75W5QB4RoWi6KfjF859hZJSKk1SiCXHs4yNs0uH_oNh0D9lFlJeFA2do8fH3G0z5PSM6OMToeChVUrZlyY/s1600/room15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfsA77Qr4tvxv1TJ3GTSzjrbEWadl43f_KlaWc45cerETo5bhWVAu2cOHuAn75W5QB4RoWi6KfjF859hZJSKk1SiCXHs4yNs0uH_oNh0D9lFlJeFA2do8fH3G0z5PSM6OMToeChVUrZlyY/s1600/room15.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If all else fails consider spending the night in one of Rio’s
hundreds of “love hotels,” generally labeled motels. These establishments are
in most areas and can vary from pretty fancy setups where all the magic happens
to seriously funky flop houses where you should probably use your own sheets.
But seriously, many of these motels can be a reasonable place to spend a night to get a
fresh start on your neighborhood search in the morning.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Perhaps I digress. Admittedly most folks going to the World
Cup did not pay all that money for air travel and game tickets to find
themselves sleeping in a temporarily-converted children's room and doubled up
with three generations of residents in a private home or in a room adjacent to
a sex worker’s home base. I guess my point is to think outside the box and know
that a solution is out there for those willing to put in the shoe leather to
find it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>So to wrap up… </b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The bad news (which you already know) is that
if you have read this far you probably have plans to be in Brazil for the World
Cup but you have yet to secure all the housing you need during your stay. The
good news is that you still have a lot of time to sort things out. But don’t
delay any further. Get to work putting some of these tips into action. People
with extra cash in their possession can usually pay someone to solve their
problem for them (and in the case of the World Cup they will get very expensive
accommodation, for sure). The rest of us have to produce some personal magic,
otherwise known as hard work.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWhmuRTZv_aqf918S1m3QOrvJWGRaKdrX-9ZmmOqC7S6D7diHx3LYutlMHdIywyr-ia_WlO7RLRop1Oghh2OQEdgzyP14MM3DGckiwZYZoTTZISmxlHoL5dA6_1xgFMG4zMJxT23Vje6Z/s1600/Brazil+tourism.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWhmuRTZv_aqf918S1m3QOrvJWGRaKdrX-9ZmmOqC7S6D7diHx3LYutlMHdIywyr-ia_WlO7RLRop1Oghh2OQEdgzyP14MM3DGckiwZYZoTTZISmxlHoL5dA6_1xgFMG4zMJxT23Vje6Z/s1600/Brazil+tourism.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Don’t panic. You still have time. Now get to it. Being in
Brazil for the World Cup is going to be amazing and worth all your efforts.
Good luck!</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-16103610406399295092014-03-26T17:41:00.001-03:002014-12-10T07:07:06.901-02:00Cooking spanakopita 6,000 miles from its home<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg11vlyKRekAnyGYkywhDA_yQxO4Kq0CD6Jz4su84s4kMcr0yCtbn7I2I8w3dwXB5gC1-EYCSAAtDGwu48TVr2TYU7wnC7rj5xvUWY8BKKVfyvCSFt4IcOB-owljW5aYkxCmalA4qWU1H7G/s1600/P3230019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg11vlyKRekAnyGYkywhDA_yQxO4Kq0CD6Jz4su84s4kMcr0yCtbn7I2I8w3dwXB5gC1-EYCSAAtDGwu48TVr2TYU7wnC7rj5xvUWY8BKKVfyvCSFt4IcOB-owljW5aYkxCmalA4qWU1H7G/s1600/P3230019.JPG" height="200" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am not Greek, although Luiz and I have had the joy of
spending a couple of weeks exploring several cities in Greece, as well as
several Greek islands in the Mediterranean. I have also been to Greek Cyprus and
Luiz and I have been to Turkey as well. While the Greeks and the Turks have not
gotten along very well in recent history (given that whole unresolved Turkish
invasion of Cyprus thing starting back in the 1970s) they share some common
ground in their culinary traditions. But – I don’t want to poke a stick at that
sleeping lion. I just want to share my recent adventure cooking <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanakopita" target="_blank">spanakopita</a>, a
delicious spinach pie that I have eaten in various forms over many years and in
many countries. This time – in Brazil.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cooking ethnic foods at home is an ongoing theme among
expats in Brazil. So many of us have cravings for international dishes that we
just can’t find in restaurants. (Those living in São Paulo have better luck in
this regard.) About a week ago I was combing the aisles of Pão de Açúcar, a high-end
supermarket near our apartment, looking for <a href="http://www.huyfong.com/no_frames/sriracha.htm" target="_blank">Sriracha</a> hot sauce. I didn't find
the hot sauce but I did spot <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filo" target="_blank">phyllo dough</a> (or philo, or filo; fillo in Portuguese) in the freezer
section. Eureka!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Living the strategy of getting while the getting is good, I
bought a box and started dreaming up the possibilities.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthkb7V7eiTefQUk9YAPYnS6R4XNupr1tYAbmN3irWg2AnrkMt4dDiHzMFIHDBuBHdP2dtNZKVq6scn8RDdtuWsl7X_x_rMPEjuXZ2Wqj22lt0viPSU4kB_T3rj2fwvVOH-bTZJbkk562_/s1600/P3220001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgthkb7V7eiTefQUk9YAPYnS6R4XNupr1tYAbmN3irWg2AnrkMt4dDiHzMFIHDBuBHdP2dtNZKVq6scn8RDdtuWsl7X_x_rMPEjuXZ2Wqj22lt0viPSU4kB_T3rj2fwvVOH-bTZJbkk562_/s1600/P3220001.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I still use the cookbook I bought in the early 1980s. I've had to put it into a binder but she still gives me what I need.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Spanakopita was the obvious choice. I’ve got a super
delicious recipe I learned over 30 years ago and have been pleasing crowds with
ever since. Time to break it out and introduce some folks to a Greek favorite.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTJpYpXDDpHDf0_U4jDGJ8dkgDxZmB0XX1p6qpkdhW_EdN8Gzh5DiOJv6TFj_Hxogyelenn8Swm_ywP2tSI2tH109N-QXYWBWd4E0jfjmMLjeBIez4W7LlerwYrSuIv1lvmrhk72y8Mby/s1600/P3220005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTJpYpXDDpHDf0_U4jDGJ8dkgDxZmB0XX1p6qpkdhW_EdN8Gzh5DiOJv6TFj_Hxogyelenn8Swm_ywP2tSI2tH109N-QXYWBWd4E0jfjmMLjeBIez4W7LlerwYrSuIv1lvmrhk72y8Mby/s1600/P3220005.JPG" height="320" width="280" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Like I said, I am not Greek. My recipe, which I LOVE, is
not one passed down to me by someone’s Greek grandmother nor was it coaxed out
of a family restaurant chef after a three hour meal with new friends on the Greek
island of Samos. This gem of a recipe is a proven fabulous Greek spinach pie
suitable as a main dish published in the <a href="http://www.molliekatzen.com/books_moosewood_cookbook.php" target="_blank">Moosewood Cookbook</a> (plus my personal
tweaks). Given the realities of shopping in Niterói I had to make a few
modifications. But the end result was just as I remembered it and EVERYONE
loved it.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here we go. Heads up – you will need a pastry brush to get
the job done.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This recipe takes about 1.5 hours to prepare (incl. baking)
and makes 8 adult servings as a main dish. It is a generous, “double-decker”
pie. It could be halved, made in a single layer, and be served as a side.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2RFnZP0fWDMxYoJwmAbb2IZ098ZKCb6QG0NUhb9PAz3rZph8E714pU1G0JZ7HsbQByzRUfpzUFSuSSXiW2kK1nYU4HuzBo-_WqAPwyDmkIfei-82DLenElCtjnjQVdruRDnV-H-gExR3J/s1600/P3230007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2RFnZP0fWDMxYoJwmAbb2IZ098ZKCb6QG0NUhb9PAz3rZph8E714pU1G0JZ7HsbQByzRUfpzUFSuSSXiW2kK1nYU4HuzBo-_WqAPwyDmkIfei-82DLenElCtjnjQVdruRDnV-H-gExR3J/s1600/P3230007.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ingredients:</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 2 cups (about 275g) crumbled feta cheese. [<i>I have only once
seen feta cheese in a store in Niterói and it was sold in a tiny quantity
packaged as a crumbled salad topping. Price prohibitive. Others in Rio have had
better luck and mention Apetina feta made by Arla (imported) as an affordable
and tasty option when it can be found in finer grocery stores. It runs about
R$95 per kilogram. The less affordable Brazilian-made feta runs more than
R$225/kilo. So – no surprise here – I substitute a firm but smooth ricotta.
Choose wisely. Some Brazilian ricottas can be very dry and firm beyond what is
right for this recipe. Pick a ricotta that gives a bit when you gently squeeze
it.</i>]</div>
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- 5 medium eggs, slightly beaten</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 2 Tbs. flour (as needed, to help make a dryer filling
mixture)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 3 Tbs. butter for sautéing</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 1.5 cups chopped onions</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 1.5 cups chopped fresh mushrooms (I know, nobody puts
mushrooms in their spanakopita… but I do.) Cremini would be great if you can
find them. I cannot. So I used shitake.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 3 cloves garlic, minced</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 2 cups cottage cheese (500g)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- one bunch of scallions, chopped</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 2 lbs. fresh spinach (1 kilogram) Frankly, you could double
the spinach and it would still look like too little after you gently steam it
down. I err on the side of going overboard. It is a spinach pie after all, not
a cottage cheese and feta/ricotta pie. But there is the cleaning and stemming
thing you have to deal with. So just make sure you use at least the minimum.
Note to the cooks in Brazil – I’m sure you have noticed the spinach here can be
significantly tougher than what you may have had elsewhere. That means you
really do want to remove the stems. So if you are buying handy bags of ‘cleaned’
spinach (which here is another silly over statement) you want to go through it
and pinch off those tough stems.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- Some fresh basil, chopped [<i>I also added some chopped mint,
not too much, to bring a bit of zing. I was worried the lack of feta was going
to make things too bland</i>.]</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- ½ tsp. oregano<br />
- 1/4 tsp. nutmeg (my secret ingredient when making things like this with ricotta)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- Salt and pepper to taste [<i>Note: I added a bit more salt than
usual because I did not have the salt in the filling coming from the feta. Be
sure to taste</i>.]</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 1/8 cup sesame seeds
(25g or so)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 1 lb package of phyllo dough, defrosted – Note that the
package I found was a 300g quantity, so you will need two of them. More about
this early mistake on my part later…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- 1.5 lb melted butter (a 200g pkg will do the trick) for
assembly</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Procedure:</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Preheat your oven to 375° F (190° C or more depending on
your oven)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglDAUB81EiAfbfe6mZ_F8CXHWEbd3RUs7R_SVEsSthHB6oeB2mjR02jMalXo6ZwXnnV0TP_zsmFCL6Zzf3vf-BPj9kCs3_afmiw5oKrwmlhzGcXL_DbjyczRwW5WW5x0ac-hFQAqE5EUIT/s1600/P3230010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglDAUB81EiAfbfe6mZ_F8CXHWEbd3RUs7R_SVEsSthHB6oeB2mjR02jMalXo6ZwXnnV0TP_zsmFCL6Zzf3vf-BPj9kCs3_afmiw5oKrwmlhzGcXL_DbjyczRwW5WW5x0ac-hFQAqE5EUIT/s1600/P3230010.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Clean, stem and tear or chop the spinach. Salt it slightly
and cook it, adding no additional water, for just a few minutes to wilt it.
This is brief. Do not cook it down to a dull green mush. Let it cool some and
then squeeze out the excess liquid. Carefully fluff it back to individual bits
of spinach (do not leave it in clumps).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sauté the onions and garlic in butter, salting lightly. Add
the chopped mushrooms and cook minimally, but get their wonderfulness into the
mix. When it looks and smells perfect remove from heat and combine with the
rest of the ingredients. Add the fluffed up spinach. Stir lovingly.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXgqaigcBezO8-e7Nk95n7_lMT5ejxjabC6k4LqAsgQZ7JBLPlVNNnfXbmkigqv7XO_tvd1T64Af_W6OZqm7DpXO-PCDPiohyoZopR3RAqlxtCG8r6fhC0uAQgV1FiYceSEq5t1fhsyR-V/s1600/P3230011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXgqaigcBezO8-e7Nk95n7_lMT5ejxjabC6k4LqAsgQZ7JBLPlVNNnfXbmkigqv7XO_tvd1T64Af_W6OZqm7DpXO-PCDPiohyoZopR3RAqlxtCG8r6fhC0uAQgV1FiYceSEq5t1fhsyR-V/s1600/P3230011.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See how that spinach cooks down dramatically?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaCEhhPL5BWEVicBnlX_C6LzGnZLHjiOOXbx_cH1Yt_McZ0x0eatvNvlHxJxT51A1Wgt2FDUd0d0ylcb0KLCZ6BCS-MAdDwf0MXMtvVNQ4wwItyIfuleQO0NwnBvzWriDh1oLPRBEsfiNz/s1600/P3230012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaCEhhPL5BWEVicBnlX_C6LzGnZLHjiOOXbx_cH1Yt_McZ0x0eatvNvlHxJxT51A1Wgt2FDUd0d0ylcb0KLCZ6BCS-MAdDwf0MXMtvVNQ4wwItyIfuleQO0NwnBvzWriDh1oLPRBEsfiNz/s1600/P3230012.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mix it all together.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So now you have a big bowl with the sautéed stuff, the
spinach, the cheeses, beaten eggs, herbs and spices all mixed together and
ready to go. Taste it and correct the seasoning to your preferences.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here’s my pep talk regarding the use of phyllo dough: Be
brave. Be confident. Don’t freak out. It’s all gonna be OK. This stuff looks
like a pain (and it is, a little) but it is not as delicate as it looks. It can
take a little manhandling. Yeah, it can tear a little and straight-out-of-the-box
dried edges which were not your fault can make your job harder than it should
have been. Just put on some music, pour yourself some wine, and take it all in
stride. Ultimately, in terms of the final product, this dough is VERY
forgiving. The layers can be a mess, but with just one intact leaf on top you
have a picture perfect spanakopita. How you got there can be your little
secret. And who knows – maybe you will get a really cooperative batch and sail
through the whole procedure glitch free. It happens.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After your dough has returned to room temperature, open the
package and unfold the sheets/leaves of dough so you have one stack. Lightly
and evenly wet a tea towel squeezing out all the water. This is your humidifier
that is going to keep your dough from drying out while you assemble this
amazing pie. Place the towel over the stack of dough leaves when you are not otherwise
fiddling with them. If your towel is too wet and you fear it will add moisture
to the dough place a sheet of parchment paper (papel manteiga will do) over the
stack first, then the towel.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Arrange your work space so the dough, the melted butter and
brush, your filling, the 9x13 baking pan and your wine are all close at hand.
Breathe. You can do this.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4ARJBNdT5P59BBnZXlCE-hkQ0c3bIKNIwttFJ16cRqYu_bXe1698AHt7GyQQEuvXD-2r0tQhaMGVAfj0lKicHuIQGbCYlWsKoAOeAECYwX92d9SmVm6dYTSUrS6VdziYpm7eWyTauZjZ/s1600/P3230013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4ARJBNdT5P59BBnZXlCE-hkQ0c3bIKNIwttFJ16cRqYu_bXe1698AHt7GyQQEuvXD-2r0tQhaMGVAfj0lKicHuIQGbCYlWsKoAOeAECYwX92d9SmVm6dYTSUrS6VdziYpm7eWyTauZjZ/s1600/P3230013.JPG" height="193" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Brush some melted butter on the bottom of your pan. Place
one leaf of the dough, centered, in the pan. It will outsize the pan, just let
it climb the sides. Brush this layer of dough with butter, including up the
sides of the pan. Repeat this placing of layers and spreading with melted
butter until you have 6 or 8 layers down. I say 6 or 8 because you want to use
a little more than 1/3 of them on the bottom, then the same amount in the
middle and then a few less for the final, top layer. So if you are having
trouble with the dough and have had to scrap a leaf of so – don’t panic, just
adjust your number of layers so as to keep enough to complete the task.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAolXjOBaC_V-FqK3MjNA14xaXjlLfGOPfY4W6WYR4r9YKMORPynNfZ_XKaGBNxI6xr_o2e0N15xxSahF1flkfMVKewu4A1uQLp1n9Ba6-yqdKWgmaeh-sVaj5kdLg66F1sg2fvAfGAO7s/s1600/P3230014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAolXjOBaC_V-FqK3MjNA14xaXjlLfGOPfY4W6WYR4r9YKMORPynNfZ_XKaGBNxI6xr_o2e0N15xxSahF1flkfMVKewu4A1uQLp1n9Ba6-yqdKWgmaeh-sVaj5kdLg66F1sg2fvAfGAO7s/s1600/P3230014.JPG" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When your first set of dough leaves is complete spread ½ of
the luscious filling all around. Continue with another 8 or so layers of dough.
Don’t skimp on the melted butter and don’t worry about the corners that are now
getting a little crowded with pleated dough – they are going to be the
super-buttery areas of the pie for those who like that sort of thing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sometimes the dough will begin to tear when you try to
separate one sheet. This is usually because it hits a dry spot/edge or a spot
where one layer has been pressed too firmly into the other and they are stuck
together. Stop pulling immediately and try to work around the spot from various
angles to free it. Tears will only continue and get worse once they start. If
separating the layers is impossible without things tearing into two or more pieces
– no sweat. Just remove the sheet in bits and reconstruct the sheet in your
baking pan. Spread it with butter, sip your wine, and carry on. No harm done.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After your second set of leaves spread the remaining filling
over the whole thing. Continue placing layers of dough and butter until you
have three sheets left. <b>IMPORTANT:</b> that last one or two layers in the stack are
probably NOT going to be flawless. They have been offering up their perfectness
to the benefit of the entire stack since the factory. By now they are likely to
be a little worse for wear. So – remember I suggested you save a perfect leaf
for the top? Plan ahead, because it is not likely to be your last leaf in the
stack.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcUdZUCB0aap2zjYWyaFTQ0WcBTgQ03awGccxVtvwBdN14NNwjNM9AUHnuQW7HpH1TAi3NaP1Wv7wnFQvLEAjbn-wvVXhp34tF1AnFRIz5m2oLP3qDhsYkQUp9_A0Y0pRXhuo_p2NbAh6D/s1600/P3230015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcUdZUCB0aap2zjYWyaFTQ0WcBTgQ03awGccxVtvwBdN14NNwjNM9AUHnuQW7HpH1TAi3NaP1Wv7wnFQvLEAjbn-wvVXhp34tF1AnFRIz5m2oLP3qDhsYkQUp9_A0Y0pRXhuo_p2NbAh6D/s1600/P3230015.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to bake.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When you are about three or four layers from the end,
carefully fold over all that excess dough you have spilling out over the
top/edge of the pan. Use your butter brush to wet it down. Now use your last
few perfect leaves to delicately finish off the pie. Trim to the outside pan size if necessary.
Brush butter over the whole top and sprinkle evenly with sesame seeds.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Place the pan into your preheated oven and bake for about 45
minutes – until golden.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Smile. Sip your wine. You did it.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJKjmajpyU5SarU6jL6L2w4pONaot529oUwBPzwR0kOQk9nlFLLgj1mT8b91eWcWkD1FvKST2nE39y1lCdguEfCzVek6_RTdImPR44CHhOMmwbujUjYbtQ-mKyLcXdxAfwh8SBSHUlZV-B/s1600/P3230016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJKjmajpyU5SarU6jL6L2w4pONaot529oUwBPzwR0kOQk9nlFLLgj1mT8b91eWcWkD1FvKST2nE39y1lCdguEfCzVek6_RTdImPR44CHhOMmwbujUjYbtQ-mKyLcXdxAfwh8SBSHUlZV-B/s1600/P3230016.JPG" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
My particular tale this time around, on the other hand, took a bit of a left turn
halfway through. Not noticing that the box of phyllo dough contained only 300g
and seeing as I bought only one package, I had only enough dough to make one
layer of the pie. It’s all good – one layer is probably more common a format
anyway, plus my Brazilian friends and family didn't know the difference. But I
was stuck with ½ of my filling mixture.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So I returned to the store the next day and bought another
package of the dough. This time I made those cute little spanakopita triangles
you have probably seen at cocktail parties. Easy-peasy.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNd94CKvk2jLcICf1zpctUs7FtfNhYlsP6MxAvK0Mb34amCRHtF2KB6boeSalIDa8NiaxBOArTGuPHmqqMy_gk6qZ85yRmBiTOjGupAXCKT7NfHd0AXCQsVOqEb8m96_l1BzyoG9g7rARG/s1600/P3250022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNd94CKvk2jLcICf1zpctUs7FtfNhYlsP6MxAvK0Mb34amCRHtF2KB6boeSalIDa8NiaxBOArTGuPHmqqMy_gk6qZ85yRmBiTOjGupAXCKT7NfHd0AXCQsVOqEb8m96_l1BzyoG9g7rARG/s1600/P3250022.JPG" height="175" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdI8n6kAds5DmEhlUaejVyBP9TptIGbuBmx6NTmRkjvQYNZmftWtgmAxSXP4LSQHCCYr48kqO5rz-6mRMhdiyE06CrDpxbVWLTsLoqUOtsYAXZ3LaoQOyoDyc91EC904tKGjkqJKE67G0/s1600/P3250023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAdI8n6kAds5DmEhlUaejVyBP9TptIGbuBmx6NTmRkjvQYNZmftWtgmAxSXP4LSQHCCYr48kqO5rz-6mRMhdiyE06CrDpxbVWLTsLoqUOtsYAXZ3LaoQOyoDyc91EC904tKGjkqJKE67G0/s1600/P3250023.JPG" height="196" width="320" /></a></div>
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Just pull off one leaf of the dough, cut it into three
strips, brush the dough with butter, place a small spoon of the filling off to
one side at the end of a strip and then fold in triangles like a flag. Place on
a baking sheet, brush the tops with butter and bake for about 20 minutes. It’s a little bit of work – but they
are so cute! And they taste just as wonderful as the whole pie version.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcRfkBF8y2lHyOIEOfFhls5u2UOuL8O2h5eLk_2fQxagcsyeTxg0fPR-xrHkN2J4GVVPO6Y4wZKl-XRGaXh3gvZxTa3rdrPXuklCvifPkFBiaGvaxu0pUlqeLzxUl7azNQ0fFwDM5LW-6/s1600/P3250024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcRfkBF8y2lHyOIEOfFhls5u2UOuL8O2h5eLk_2fQxagcsyeTxg0fPR-xrHkN2J4GVVPO6Y4wZKl-XRGaXh3gvZxTa3rdrPXuklCvifPkFBiaGvaxu0pUlqeLzxUl7azNQ0fFwDM5LW-6/s1600/P3250024.JPG" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
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In addition to those I baked immediately, I put 8 triangles
in two layers separated by parchment paper into Ziplock bags and placed them in
the freezer for later use.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJwJbHnUyxVQuCLT_hjS7YG3smK8P_WjLS53wkI7MOdgZWuEJqrOyK9qoy31h8QRvY8WypvicYW_S66efubb1uTcXUyqCDzHfjICuFmxTV9rWpZbWXVuAUj6NwbXmsvDa-F7bDsVAhRlv8/s1600/P3250025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJwJbHnUyxVQuCLT_hjS7YG3smK8P_WjLS53wkI7MOdgZWuEJqrOyK9qoy31h8QRvY8WypvicYW_S66efubb1uTcXUyqCDzHfjICuFmxTV9rWpZbWXVuAUj6NwbXmsvDa-F7bDsVAhRlv8/s1600/P3250025.JPG" height="261" width="320" /></a></div>
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There you have it. Let me know what you think. Tell me your
secret tips for success with phyllo dough. And definitely give this a try on
your own.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-15264697774298704902014-03-15T08:03:00.000-03:002014-03-15T09:43:25.441-03:00Two hidden mountain towns near Ouro Preto<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqklldTCbmIPa4bKdSKNVEdgU0xrLvXGdS-OltGQj2kyac2y4xXzdtDdriDbQmlsH0H1xqWL5MfkrEhyphenhyphen17ni8PDl511_G1jclVfySsafRP7SHEQtoaWs4luMBZgZlTAsG6n5YOQV7uA4wV/s1600/P3060161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqklldTCbmIPa4bKdSKNVEdgU0xrLvXGdS-OltGQj2kyac2y4xXzdtDdriDbQmlsH0H1xqWL5MfkrEhyphenhyphen17ni8PDl511_G1jclVfySsafRP7SHEQtoaWs4luMBZgZlTAsG6n5YOQV7uA4wV/s1600/P3060161.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Workers on break enjoying the view in Catas Altas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Taking the back roads is hands down our favorite way to see
Brazil in all its humble glory. Discovering tiny towns with their simple
beauty, historic architecture, local pride, living history – and occasionally
some fresh cheese or fresh sausage drying in the air to round it all off, count
me in.</div>
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During our recent visit to Ouro Preto (OP) in Minas Gerais
we identified two nearby towns worth exploring: Lavras Novas and Catas Altas.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOxRfgjbEyaWOP4lWa5QrjwimmhR5RJFg-EOkj6LWx361VKEGXwPdnUgvkXcOrgnueBpgWnaXvEoPRcQEaQo1y4v6EAQJICD82SgelOvBVsiwla3-Q1E2ddk9502I8lQj68KmRTsUau5hI/s1600/LavrasNovas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOxRfgjbEyaWOP4lWa5QrjwimmhR5RJFg-EOkj6LWx361VKEGXwPdnUgvkXcOrgnueBpgWnaXvEoPRcQEaQo1y4v6EAQJICD82SgelOvBVsiwla3-Q1E2ddk9502I8lQj68KmRTsUau5hI/s1600/LavrasNovas.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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Just 17 kilometers outside of Ouro Preto is the little town
of <a href="http://www.lavrasnovas.com.br/ln_historia.html" target="_blank">Lavras Novas</a>. It is sufficiently tiny and located sufficiently close to OP
that for governmental purposes in modern history it has been incorporated as a
“district” of OP, essentially a far flung neighborhood. But its history tells a
much more rich and interesting story.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivSTqNrGAIcg0TOzxfot3vRS87cMsb_jST7Vr6McjLWctd7L8BZ6dDfOdodbcNIPRFnVcPfBpuag0TNECR305v8MaHxK4Mw0C9OeUEIzZ9rSkB7DOfL9hgS3hKnBRKcGNHGYnEyWeSJBZH/s1600/P3040096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivSTqNrGAIcg0TOzxfot3vRS87cMsb_jST7Vr6McjLWctd7L8BZ6dDfOdodbcNIPRFnVcPfBpuag0TNECR305v8MaHxK4Mw0C9OeUEIzZ9rSkB7DOfL9hgS3hKnBRKcGNHGYnEyWeSJBZH/s1600/P3040096.JPG" height="280" width="320" /></a></div>
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Founded in 1717 this mountain village served to shelter
early gold miners. Historical reports indicate that gold was discovered in this
area prior to it being discovered in neighboring Ouro Preto. The central chapel
was erected in 1740. Over the years the gold supply dwindled and most folks
relocated to nearby towns such as OP. But many stayed behind and worked farms
and honed crafts like basket weaving and wood carving. Town representatives
would take fabricated goods to Ouro Preto for sale and return with purchased
essentials for living. Word is that the town was a rather insulated, hard to
reach village living out a rather socialist/collectivist communal strategy.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFpnCwG2I6p-rx-GtqxEjvJbhLyG6omKUV-0Tilf6clwoRza568i1TSLwSRjRAKEwtmrQ2N-fBbgMF89HZOiy7HV1Fm0RVCTq86_zhFlkbdHa_XLTI6h4spPd35oXakSoLZ8HzZYP-31fL/s1600/P3040102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFpnCwG2I6p-rx-GtqxEjvJbhLyG6omKUV-0Tilf6clwoRza568i1TSLwSRjRAKEwtmrQ2N-fBbgMF89HZOiy7HV1Fm0RVCTq86_zhFlkbdHa_XLTI6h4spPd35oXakSoLZ8HzZYP-31fL/s1600/P3040102.JPG" height="250" width="320" /></a></div>
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One tale about the town that many dispute is that by the
late 18<sup>th</sup> century the town operated as a quilombo. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quilombo" target="_blank">Quilombos</a> were
towns and villages (even some cities) in Brazil that were refuges for freed and
escaped African slaves and their allies. Most were located in remote,
defensible locations that offered maximum safety and security for residents
from those who would seek to capture and re-enslave them. Given the (then) remote
and difficult to access nature of Lavras Novas and its long-time majority black
population this tale took root. But others suggest that it was simply too near
to Ouro Preto to have been an effective location for a quilombo and that its
black residents were freed slaves choosing an alternative, more appealing
community to OP.</div>
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Whatever the case may be, this present day town of about
1,500 people remains a majority black community that still sports a
ridiculously, seriously rugged access road (which, unbelievably, sees daily bus
traffic to and from Ouro Preto).</div>
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Our casual day trip took us to town just to look around a
bit. The town has developed a pretty good tourist infrastructure with pousadas
and several eco-tourism adventure services. The surrounding area is great for
hiking and includes several beautiful waterfalls.</div>
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We just wandered around the central area and took pictures.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZZU8r3a_-5zppduxbpEEcdzHvcnoOSa3eC3EYP4-n0pOfL8fYhLYa6hYz3D5nFqnkRI6HXbdDRaHp_LkTIr-YLHHoGvBVe9jSlZG0_qO5eK1BwjJoHv0qyAACl7Ct-R9t5HPejjSzuwZ/s1600/P3040098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZZU8r3a_-5zppduxbpEEcdzHvcnoOSa3eC3EYP4-n0pOfL8fYhLYa6hYz3D5nFqnkRI6HXbdDRaHp_LkTIr-YLHHoGvBVe9jSlZG0_qO5eK1BwjJoHv0qyAACl7Ct-R9t5HPejjSzuwZ/s1600/P3040098.JPG" height="201" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGKnSAf28XhLBIObQLLNh9G2ztGAOMwvLFZk3vgMNmqh8VhgNlobWwYt8UuoqOQPGN9C31bvVKKAZ9dVEw8mDRghg3BWkc8uLRnx8rrj7Dmqra0XFbPfk95VuzvFbk21D4pGdpfxmWDX96/s1600/lavrasnovas2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGKnSAf28XhLBIObQLLNh9G2ztGAOMwvLFZk3vgMNmqh8VhgNlobWwYt8UuoqOQPGN9C31bvVKKAZ9dVEw8mDRghg3BWkc8uLRnx8rrj7Dmqra0XFbPfk95VuzvFbk21D4pGdpfxmWDX96/s1600/lavrasnovas2.jpg" height="215" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyNcRL85FUjvfKkJ36PqpTbgI7FJp1vRi2jEYWNiqHXoDpKFi0hLeFjsyOKMd13ngMhvyYs5fhOvK8aDvCOO3AzZ_NrPNpAhyphenhyphen06gWJE5bYh0lZcQ0su5p9IVTSLsELXwvI8MJEhx0N2hRx/s1600/lavrasnovas3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyNcRL85FUjvfKkJ36PqpTbgI7FJp1vRi2jEYWNiqHXoDpKFi0hLeFjsyOKMd13ngMhvyYs5fhOvK8aDvCOO3AzZ_NrPNpAhyphenhyphen06gWJE5bYh0lZcQ0su5p9IVTSLsELXwvI8MJEhx0N2hRx/s1600/lavrasnovas3.jpg" height="171" width="320" /></a></div>
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Always on the lookout for the unexpected, I spotted an
artisan basket studio where we stopped in and bought a few dried gourd cabasa
plant holders that Luiz envisioned as creative containers for flower
arrangements. Out of the car window while leaving town I caught a glimpse of a
sign on the front of a rather worn house that advertised fresh goat’s milk for
sale.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTwjD4S2fovHG-cwc4ZPGCkVsOQ1TZwyKxI6frzuA12e1FelJ0ra_4PsDL6X0EbQ1zv70nVzvnUHhpyVHgXww6ThUv02QggLJrWYXLxSPRF58tieL1cXKewQ420qbrEqEMYiFQ0HflUAz/s1600/P3040104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTwjD4S2fovHG-cwc4ZPGCkVsOQ1TZwyKxI6frzuA12e1FelJ0ra_4PsDL6X0EbQ1zv70nVzvnUHhpyVHgXww6ThUv02QggLJrWYXLxSPRF58tieL1cXKewQ420qbrEqEMYiFQ0HflUAz/s1600/P3040104.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTaHSUSGAKjkaiSvMC9Cj8tCOZUjyPjk64RrcXCYMjNjRzEJ_Fc5Xu0E13jLo1dVE0CG5AOZc8XF4DBnNuQz_49SmJj_qQ-I0IT0dUDUmSB4r8vSXiXO3o9VhNYeMSfVgV_Mbc1jSkVEN/s1600/P3040105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTaHSUSGAKjkaiSvMC9Cj8tCOZUjyPjk64RrcXCYMjNjRzEJ_Fc5Xu0E13jLo1dVE0CG5AOZc8XF4DBnNuQz_49SmJj_qQ-I0IT0dUDUmSB4r8vSXiXO3o9VhNYeMSfVgV_Mbc1jSkVEN/s1600/P3040105.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Carlos was good enough to stop so we could inquire if they
might have any goat cheese for sale. There was a little bell thingy at the
front gate with a sign that read: “Ring bell and wait!” Luiz gave it a go and
we waited. Rang it again. Then again. We were just about to return to the car
when a young man appeared at an open window and called out. After some friendly
chatter he offered to take a look in “the laboratory” to see if they had
anything firming up. Then… bingo – we
scored. He only had one cake of cheese but he offered to sell it to us for
R$15, a quite reasonable price. The next morning over coffee we discovered it
was really yummy, a bit too fresh and mellow perhaps, but yummy all the same.</div>
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It was thanks to a tip from a fellow back roads traveler on
a gringos Facebook group I frequent that I discovered the other nearby town of
<a href="http://www.catasaltas.mg.gov.br/" target="_blank">Catas Altas</a>. He had posted a link to
<a href="http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=1451858" target="_blank">these terrific images</a> of the town. Carlos assured me it was a brief 70
kilometers drive from OP to get there, so we planned another day trip of
discovery.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8HhqCZ1YNSp0wvupNzpSUvXowq_P6bN4gcdJoE4fAePpkAkIzwbXQo8Y207bwcba9EzaefVvwqYIqYlc1d0ZNW1iAQ8FW6F0PF_g75DOb_mCz9TVCBZBTWqpSpBvvfeHTIi7CE3cYHWsu/s1600/P3050108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8HhqCZ1YNSp0wvupNzpSUvXowq_P6bN4gcdJoE4fAePpkAkIzwbXQo8Y207bwcba9EzaefVvwqYIqYlc1d0ZNW1iAQ8FW6F0PF_g75DOb_mCz9TVCBZBTWqpSpBvvfeHTIi7CE3cYHWsu/s1600/P3050108.JPG" height="227" width="320" /></a></div>
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This place was/is beautiful. It’s plunked on top of the
mountains with views in every direction. Typical for the region, Catas Altas
was originally an outpost housing gold miners working lucrative mines (or
rather, excavations) way up at high altitudes. Thus the name Catas Altas (high
excavations). Local records date the original settlement to 1694. The first
baptism recorded at the original town chapel was dated in 1712. Construction of
the larger church that replaced the original chapel began in 1729. That
building, occupying the main town square, still functions today and (in typical
showy church fashion) sports a glorious interior that outstrips any other
structure in town in terms of
extravagance.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WZOxsBErWsDq6OHd4KoSS8B1GJE1hLFbjY_y656SMU8oux7z2RWqy_0QewpDCi1ZxekOmUD7pJWJRQFZ3LFrD2cCyxnzIXYVFamdBKNWAMdouDjBpFOdyRuY7lk_TfxzPMu2XaTwRfBl/s1600/P3050114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9WZOxsBErWsDq6OHd4KoSS8B1GJE1hLFbjY_y656SMU8oux7z2RWqy_0QewpDCi1ZxekOmUD7pJWJRQFZ3LFrD2cCyxnzIXYVFamdBKNWAMdouDjBpFOdyRuY7lk_TfxzPMu2XaTwRfBl/s1600/P3050114.JPG" height="244" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The historic church in the central square.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjINac2aX1Fg7XI7kECViDVSoYjmkJ-Mm8V0vLBN6UNxG1JgbT1Prz_KKDmdLy5Bp9mAVIuPXoAOjTIoeMkhk5R8tfRs-rtUTTHUGZDkSoexPQJmJHHN6R5lEbu6nP_j7fXS58hptsktTtS/s1600/P3050122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjINac2aX1Fg7XI7kECViDVSoYjmkJ-Mm8V0vLBN6UNxG1JgbT1Prz_KKDmdLy5Bp9mAVIuPXoAOjTIoeMkhk5R8tfRs-rtUTTHUGZDkSoexPQJmJHHN6R5lEbu6nP_j7fXS58hptsktTtS/s1600/P3050122.JPG" height="253" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dogs in repose at church entrance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Once we arrived in town we parked near the church and walked
to various points in search of further exploration information. You know, the
typical stuff: we talked to the lady at the bakery, chatted up the woman at the
register at the little market, tried to get some useful information from the
woman guarding the church entrance (and insisting on R$2 to enter – even if you
just wanted to say a prayer), asked a few questions of the man selling aluminum
pots and pans on the curb around the square, checked in with the gals at the
pharmacy, and eventually spoke with the woman cleaning the local school
library.</div>
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As the tourist office was unexpectedly closed (folks said
they were surely exhausted from the Carnaval weekend and probably would be open
again in a few days – haha), we had to shake down the locals for directions to
the nearby waterfall we had heard of. With just one false start out of town and
then two wrong turns past the water pipe filling the cows’ drinking pond we
finally found the dirt trail of a road that took us to within a short walk of
the waterfall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNGZiyw1wvUvBeVFA0X8dLap-8iDY1z4NghC7tIOA08FkWACIfYh6wFY159qjs_eW34i6K-0FkGMmYialUCZ7BcsVzkcwjuj-zXynjaO6cDLGrX3CoXIEHa8W1_YdA4L48CMCs1XNVb6Ok/s1600/P3050129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNGZiyw1wvUvBeVFA0X8dLap-8iDY1z4NghC7tIOA08FkWACIfYh6wFY159qjs_eW34i6K-0FkGMmYialUCZ7BcsVzkcwjuj-zXynjaO6cDLGrX3CoXIEHa8W1_YdA4L48CMCs1XNVb6Ok/s1600/P3050129.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmt5tlcpVFz7D-Taavmb5mb3nwiU2F5sb4wr6mtTuRvU_c3U_nDXadCi61BKn3rbWHZCZIS8a-FNwNbblfucC_4-LRnh51an8e3VGsxhvHt1Z89S1qXye5vJqqGPmVggyD-Lv0ZEx9EwHL/s1600/P3060155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmt5tlcpVFz7D-Taavmb5mb3nwiU2F5sb4wr6mtTuRvU_c3U_nDXadCi61BKn3rbWHZCZIS8a-FNwNbblfucC_4-LRnh51an8e3VGsxhvHt1Z89S1qXye5vJqqGPmVggyD-Lv0ZEx9EwHL/s1600/P3060155.JPG" height="195" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view back down to town from the waterfall spot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Aside from the waterfall, the town was pretty stingy with its
treasures. I am often accused of chasing rainbows when I insist on looking
around every corner in these small towns. But my experience has resulted in way
more hits than misses in this regard. The really cool stuff (like the fresh
goat cheese place) don’t just jump out and grab you. You gotta do some work,
especially in places that don’t have a big tourism budget to help visitors find
the residents’ art studios or the local historical society (if it even exists).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXUTnWo0fuoulIXj2G-V3GGkVvQo3ojdqIGQ7f2ATPXCXuz767tdCEJLBGS7xaGoWepIxbLb610Pg4GLAjkjdGRKByZie08snAqO-NheZT2PYAbAQlqs4b_bo5keDgTSRyzNYm2hWpMWx/s1600/P3060177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXUTnWo0fuoulIXj2G-V3GGkVvQo3ojdqIGQ7f2ATPXCXuz767tdCEJLBGS7xaGoWepIxbLb610Pg4GLAjkjdGRKByZie08snAqO-NheZT2PYAbAQlqs4b_bo5keDgTSRyzNYm2hWpMWx/s1600/P3060177.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4y-WOx4PTL8gxS-LCbwv4XdBiD6eoVPCQptK1U7pB7jQex4qk1EWSFPZ2Rta-TbTIgxgEM0TvDg0IwIzRU2nLR_pnDVjJO9wjC0yajfC0E8jUJasSWbyBf1Bf0-AT1pTiy_OTYwM0g7Z/s1600/P3060166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4y-WOx4PTL8gxS-LCbwv4XdBiD6eoVPCQptK1U7pB7jQex4qk1EWSFPZ2Rta-TbTIgxgEM0TvDg0IwIzRU2nLR_pnDVjJO9wjC0yajfC0E8jUJasSWbyBf1Bf0-AT1pTiy_OTYwM0g7Z/s1600/P3060166.JPG" height="269" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxnqY0fB8zFOTUOyeOL-VvO-PaKH1febIgcw9tKPu3bFwSKqxR-BLo5iXIdJFveWZYu1ZgR_B7a44J-d1EQMZWLhWsBs-Gyn4RaRtQdopCd38UrG4DVHDSPKteByl_EYBWdGnfyAvS5C_V/s1600/P3060184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxnqY0fB8zFOTUOyeOL-VvO-PaKH1febIgcw9tKPu3bFwSKqxR-BLo5iXIdJFveWZYu1ZgR_B7a44J-d1EQMZWLhWsBs-Gyn4RaRtQdopCd38UrG4DVHDSPKteByl_EYBWdGnfyAvS5C_V/s1600/P3060184.JPG" height="232" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Public water fountain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I did find a fresh loaf of sweet coconut bread sitting at
the grocery checkout counter for just R$3. That counts as a good find in the
absence of more obvious bits of interest.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdpCaKIIfMC51FLYzHkNcvxtV51andceecwFeTvQmFutKxPs_X7SKhLBwN2pKJcXoKYJM8Zp1GXWI8V9jfyaLOQhVIqAIrrpoWQbsnQlQtfQJhITQrPq9q9A8YDM5eeUw8tv0tzFiHrZ_/s1600/P3050116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdpCaKIIfMC51FLYzHkNcvxtV51andceecwFeTvQmFutKxPs_X7SKhLBwN2pKJcXoKYJM8Zp1GXWI8V9jfyaLOQhVIqAIrrpoWQbsnQlQtfQJhITQrPq9q9A8YDM5eeUw8tv0tzFiHrZ_/s1600/P3050116.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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After a thorough going over, a splash in the waterfall,
picture taking and a fine Minas style lunch at a wood fire buffet we called it
a day and headed back to Ouro Preto. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTRrFyyGtwaz3sns9vTNfE6Ely4TDwX_RtLXPSDl2klDC7bentKtb23OwCJVUh4nVCPFuFKENqAHfJOfJPByKSnbuYV88lyRf0OAeeEYCDfEbTip2Mpexd7Vrhjh7NED9gWiRAU-AqsTI/s1600/P3050126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTRrFyyGtwaz3sns9vTNfE6Ely4TDwX_RtLXPSDl2klDC7bentKtb23OwCJVUh4nVCPFuFKENqAHfJOfJPByKSnbuYV88lyRf0OAeeEYCDfEbTip2Mpexd7Vrhjh7NED9gWiRAU-AqsTI/s1600/P3050126.JPG" height="233" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj489pKUTaX0O6kliyVkHF5HOdwU-lEQDj67Sxflgn3bVFuIpr0DOyg-qLZwe-yCWTtC_pkHcab-PlUj6bbD8r0F2PBW01FiFulS3PR8b1mZXkzqU8Q44mCnemsrxOs4T1HKXwDJ4ePbGkN/s1600/P3060191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj489pKUTaX0O6kliyVkHF5HOdwU-lEQDj67Sxflgn3bVFuIpr0DOyg-qLZwe-yCWTtC_pkHcab-PlUj6bbD8r0F2PBW01FiFulS3PR8b1mZXkzqU8Q44mCnemsrxOs4T1HKXwDJ4ePbGkN/s1600/P3060191.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the delivery entrance to the town's appliance store.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you plan a visit I must warn you that the mountain area
surrounding the town is pretty torn up by big mining companies gouging into the
hillside for iron ore. It’s pretty nasty. But fear not. Once you get close to
the town the mining fades into the background and you are transported back in
history.</div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-44797769508583636182014-03-12T12:33:00.000-03:002014-03-12T13:19:27.528-03:00Carnaval adventure in Ouro Preto<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSzcPw57-bu72bpFNFJ4lVW3KHMSvGwaWY9nBuKvX85l7ZIO53lDJXWr0OP-wVQdS_rDbOGe-mfhZNTkH_fVRiXbtNJxvkeHDPEp_s0d8hA03guueVBovpnludxtCpsbIY1Ypx5p-x1HC/s1600/ouro-preto-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSzcPw57-bu72bpFNFJ4lVW3KHMSvGwaWY9nBuKvX85l7ZIO53lDJXWr0OP-wVQdS_rDbOGe-mfhZNTkH_fVRiXbtNJxvkeHDPEp_s0d8hA03guueVBovpnludxtCpsbIY1Ypx5p-x1HC/s1600/ouro-preto-2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spectacular Ouro Preto</td></tr>
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Each
year in Brazil Carnaval comes around and takes many cities by storm.
Communities come alive with pride and tradition. Musicians hit the streets.
Youth enjoy the sanctioned excuse to drink. Drag queens (and their wannabe
secret admirers) dust off colorful aging separates and concoct new fabulous
outfits. And most of all, in places like Rio, businesses and politicians alike
roll out the red carpet for visiting tourists seeking an over-the-top bucket
list party extravaganza, preferably in English.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRBV4FAZ4ow7W0Ne3jKR_SieUWtZtbiKnYWWX8Rmdy1dCEEK3pvG3KeoQo_jl59CU8l6vwqVFaCTeFUKesz-hZrpNKjjbYRPS9YUUJsIZDbPRvMA3vNChyn2jZn61611re2Yb4j7D0JkgV/s1600/carnaval2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRBV4FAZ4ow7W0Ne3jKR_SieUWtZtbiKnYWWX8Rmdy1dCEEK3pvG3KeoQo_jl59CU8l6vwqVFaCTeFUKesz-hZrpNKjjbYRPS9YUUJsIZDbPRvMA3vNChyn2jZn61611re2Yb4j7D0JkgV/s1600/carnaval2.jpg" height="208" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main event in Rio.</td></tr>
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Rio’s
Carnaval scene has been evolving over the years. The world famous Carnaval
parade has continued to expand while still staying anchored in neighborhood
pride and local competitive determination. The neighborhood street party (or
bloco) scene has seen a serious resurgence of late with this year’s calendar
sporting more than 500 separate events all over the city. This year in
particular it appeared that restaurants were test driving their spiffy new English
language dinner menus as a prelude to the upcoming World Cup crush.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s
all good.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KxHoYZC2RhlzxQ8L15vSYzeyJ_9ClKBoW29RYizphGqGpMeWOXxgZNHWWW3RhFDJ2UqNBLbQXPnh59NeWtgIbfU7pYw2spc6RhkIueLTD1zboqrDGzKzQjDDqV70n22jaQZ2fowe-IGy/s1600/P3020053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3KxHoYZC2RhlzxQ8L15vSYzeyJ_9ClKBoW29RYizphGqGpMeWOXxgZNHWWW3RhFDJ2UqNBLbQXPnh59NeWtgIbfU7pYw2spc6RhkIueLTD1zboqrDGzKzQjDDqV70n22jaQZ2fowe-IGy/s1600/P3020053.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Praça Tiradentes in Ouro Preto.</td></tr>
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This
time around Luiz and I found ourselves seeking an out of town alternative to
Rio’s big event after learning that many among our group of friends with which
we typically take in the big parade at the Sambadrome were going either to the
States to do some shopping or to visit family in distant cities. So we returned
to Ouro Preto (OP).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ouro
Preto, an historic, colonial, mountain town of less than 80,000 people, is rather famous nowadays for its raucous city-wide Carnaval celebration.
The party starts in earnest on Saturday and continues every night through
Tuesday. The local municipality sponsors several live music stages throughout
the historic district offering a variety of musical styles for every taste.
Every night the streets are PACKED with people coming out to let loose for a
while and just have some fun.<o:p></o:p></div>
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A big
driver behind the crowds is the fact that Ouro Preto is a significant university
town. In 1969 two highly respected and long standing institutions: the <span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">School of Pharmacy
of Ouro Preto, founded in 1839, and School of Mines of Ouro Preto, founded in
1876</span>, were merged to form the Federal University of Ouro Preto. Today it is one of the most respected
universities in the state and the country. And that university comes with A LOT
of college kids ready to party.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBd26Ge1AT809a_v1GmjubntAfvGbISCVbuHr7rah0oPxsCZxQkict9ZKI1DoVGa77HpQ18Sx2gcEhkzu3Z37fwJXeGzSqZiVSLGf6LpLblXMKGlHVjBDFiHlP5qjAxqT1yFWsJBqPVn5R/s1600/P3020036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBd26Ge1AT809a_v1GmjubntAfvGbISCVbuHr7rah0oPxsCZxQkict9ZKI1DoVGa77HpQ18Sx2gcEhkzu3Z37fwJXeGzSqZiVSLGf6LpLblXMKGlHVjBDFiHlP5qjAxqT1yFWsJBqPVn5R/s1600/P3020036.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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To
further froth up the mix, there are a good number of “Republicas” (much like
fraternity houses) throughout the city occupying large residential buildings
which get a temporary make-over for Carnaval to host thousands of visiting
young people. Some of these Republicas have begun to sponsor their own ticketed
weekend events complete with serious sound systems and endless flowing alcohol.
If the drunken college scene really turns you off you may want to reconsider
your plans for Carnaval in Ouro Preto. There are definitely ways to steer clear
(mostly) of the worst of it, but the reality is that the city-wide event is most
definitely geared toward this scene.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSo0XSxJhlh6X_P4m_SuGlZT9eIQr1RSEJhkKQ2xVhDE9Knhy_hqlHE0Qkh3RQuVQdJGWVR9Y39xFZiQ9IJyyZWsHrE1GC-iD2A0sh6-uPzMeBw7uFat5J_rtGWg9djaJ-qK3AgC5ObnpD/s1600/P2270007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSo0XSxJhlh6X_P4m_SuGlZT9eIQr1RSEJhkKQ2xVhDE9Knhy_hqlHE0Qkh3RQuVQdJGWVR9Y39xFZiQ9IJyyZWsHrE1GC-iD2A0sh6-uPzMeBw7uFat5J_rtGWg9djaJ-qK3AgC5ObnpD/s1600/P2270007.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Carlinhos and Du's sala window.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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At any
rate, we went to spend some time with our good friends Carlinhos and Du, who
live in OP. They’ve got a big apartment with an even bigger view – and it is nowhere
near a raucous Republica. They were (again) hosting a crowd from Belo Horizontes.
To our delight, Luiz and I rated a bedroom and real bed, in contrast to so many
others sleeping on inflatable mattresses on the floors of other bedrooms and a
living room. Lucky us. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvnZiYkrkGxCqve4QjvMNju7-NMzayQioJXsNswmA3JnadtmJOtJVBis_0m1-smbOV-8-Tm7xk1i5HfvFTtRJYmFMBk2lzg4RaWTxef9yfJDwluWq_TFPeyyQF2Sf2HF29xn-5oTu-j07/s1600/P3010012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnvnZiYkrkGxCqve4QjvMNju7-NMzayQioJXsNswmA3JnadtmJOtJVBis_0m1-smbOV-8-Tm7xk1i5HfvFTtRJYmFMBk2lzg4RaWTxef9yfJDwluWq_TFPeyyQF2Sf2HF29xn-5oTu-j07/s1600/P3010012.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The
weekend was filed with bountiful Minas breakfasts, noisy group chatter,
afternoon cooking marathons, naps, costume changes and repeated visits into the
heart of the seemingly non-stop street party surrounding us.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Here
are some highlights. The photos are from trips to the street while there was
still sunlight. Things definitely cranked up later into the night, but my
camera ceases to record events once the sun goes down.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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When we weren't in the streets we were usually cooking. I brought some ingredients so Carlos and I could prepare fresh corn tortillas and a full on Mexican taco spread with refried beans and guacamole. Big hit. On another night it was chicken with Thai red curry sauce. And just to push it a bit further, I showed Carlos how to whip up a batch of homemade tofu and walked his niece and nephew through a batch of chocolate chip cookies.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTm-ntHq84GCwth2VBWAzn3zcwTYBtxiLTPD9fky7cdYdiPs4SB0TONS_6RYLV_j6D6jrBEWPhh91Aki9wzG9kj59wKRKyGnnrgkkDl3a9YgK5aPU3NtUz5arX7WAmKVSbLIsGo6gnwoR5/s1600/P3070193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTm-ntHq84GCwth2VBWAzn3zcwTYBtxiLTPD9fky7cdYdiPs4SB0TONS_6RYLV_j6D6jrBEWPhh91Aki9wzG9kj59wKRKyGnnrgkkDl3a9YgK5aPU3NtUz5arX7WAmKVSbLIsGo6gnwoR5/s1600/P3070193.JPG" height="320" width="245" /></a></div>
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After 10 days camping out at Carlos and Du's we said our farewells and returned to Niterói. Another Carnaval well played.</div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-40130459189321327912014-02-25T10:01:00.000-03:002014-02-25T10:51:27.138-03:00Our honeymoon in the Visconde de Mauá region in Rio state<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRg36sOkopKqML6OJFCKz86u46JqMwfm1IqbEta9XpdtGSRTTtAuLxrLPvZJZOh-V3qnquNKhviZxQfeitrl03bZBSDOLtSuEHdyiybQuFuuVHNljoT9tfj8W-e8roM1tv3DEt1q0Ys6_X/s1600/P2140242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRg36sOkopKqML6OJFCKz86u46JqMwfm1IqbEta9XpdtGSRTTtAuLxrLPvZJZOh-V3qnquNKhviZxQfeitrl03bZBSDOLtSuEHdyiybQuFuuVHNljoT9tfj8W-e8roM1tv3DEt1q0Ys6_X/s1600/P2140242.JPG" height="320" width="275" /></a></div>
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There’s nothing like another commitment ceremony to cue up a
travel adventure.</div>
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This past February 14<sup>th</sup> marked the 10 year
anniversary of Luiz and my then temporarily-legal marriage performed at San
Francisco’s City Hall. As a gay couple, settling into a marriage which includes
the rights, privileges and protections afforded all married citizens has been
an on again, off again experience for us. When your civil rights are put up for
a vote in the public square or horse traded by loathsome politicians you often
find yourself chasing after those rights into whatever legal margins might offer
a foothold.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqaENGWbkmUqIgvK3M29_jPtuMcKF53GlGZ5HxRtA3jfccS1mWGX8G1KbEEEf8RuPokUb8HPYyeM4ZggzTTnM7wJmCTYZKqfgoFZX-P1IdmCNdkaM9fYspUw5TQ7cOFZRLOx_JujJmI-5/s1600/P2140228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqaENGWbkmUqIgvK3M29_jPtuMcKF53GlGZ5HxRtA3jfccS1mWGX8G1KbEEEf8RuPokUb8HPYyeM4ZggzTTnM7wJmCTYZKqfgoFZX-P1IdmCNdkaM9fYspUw5TQ7cOFZRLOx_JujJmI-5/s1600/P2140228.JPG" height="256" width="320" /></a></div>
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After one marriage (since struck null and void by the
California Supreme Court) and two domestic partnership contracts (one in San
Francisco and one in the State of California) we finally took advantage of
Brazil’s “separate but equal” Stable Union option, and the 10 year anniversary
date, to re-up our “marriage” thing. This legal union in Brazil affords us the
rights, privileges and protections (and obligations) of civil marriage
throughout the country. It’s a good thing we like each other so much. We have
been through more than our share of “commitment ceremonies.”</div>
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At the risk of working our friends’ last nerve on this
subject we hope to, at a future date, legally convert this contract to a
full-on “marriage” in name and substance when (we hope) the LGBT activists in
Rio will organize their second annual mass public wedding ceremony. Given the
relatively invisible (but ever-increasing) LGBT rights struggle here we think
it is important to participate in a public event to draw attention to the
urgent need for a Brazil without homophobia. Stay tuned. </div>
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If you came to our most recent (re)commitment party and
brought a toaster or set of bath towels to wish us well, you need not feel shy
about coming to our next without a gift.</div>
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But to the point of this post: we just got (re)hitched and
it called for a honeymoon getaway.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-fkYENUJTaIT05mXrJbMTSTOVYeJB2_cD8rbWgft-6dipC0C8kG7ei8K4lNwfZL91qQDXse5wibhVTpMp1WQEtM9B7sSlwwVYAkaypoGae6VWqpaovEKUx_uylOhTfgR35s4_RFE1jzr/s1600/viscondedemaua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-fkYENUJTaIT05mXrJbMTSTOVYeJB2_cD8rbWgft-6dipC0C8kG7ei8K4lNwfZL91qQDXse5wibhVTpMp1WQEtM9B7sSlwwVYAkaypoGae6VWqpaovEKUx_uylOhTfgR35s4_RFE1jzr/s1600/viscondedemaua.jpg" height="215" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZCZJqX7t0q6zjzNmfBMmzZ9Pt_nt65oSpVYPbAIA57yvCpmTOgZhgWGCWGn_mxCuDzigELMG_6oBgsCoQe2EbNuykcQcx1Tfec9tM7Pbcr1-tOdCzyM1HreN799y3HBJV_US-Y7tdy5B/s1600/ViscondeMaua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDZCZJqX7t0q6zjzNmfBMmzZ9Pt_nt65oSpVYPbAIA57yvCpmTOgZhgWGCWGn_mxCuDzigELMG_6oBgsCoQe2EbNuykcQcx1Tfec9tM7Pbcr1-tOdCzyM1HreN799y3HBJV_US-Y7tdy5B/s1600/ViscondeMaua.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqr5np5PfFOfqOS45KfuAV1QpK5djTTUXzCHpKraXyMcG3pgu5I-Mhws3qKRMaq-Ox0IBe_CHKEiupi15etTjq-fu9X4J4WvzgJmLpfl2RkRLE-0U4EEhyCjgXFFBjhjO_po00hDZ9FEE/s1600/visconde-de-maua1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEqr5np5PfFOfqOS45KfuAV1QpK5djTTUXzCHpKraXyMcG3pgu5I-Mhws3qKRMaq-Ox0IBe_CHKEiupi15etTjq-fu9X4J4WvzgJmLpfl2RkRLE-0U4EEhyCjgXFFBjhjO_po00hDZ9FEE/s1600/visconde-de-maua1.png" height="149" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of the best facts about being relatively new to Brazil
is that there remain many, many cool places to visit that we have never seen
before. Our objective for our honeymoon was to identify one such place and take
it on with gusto. We settled on the mountainous <a href="http://www.viscondedemaua.com.br/" target="_blank">Viconde de Mauá</a> area in Rio de
Janeiro state near to the borders with both São Paulo and Minas Gerais states.
The region is both remote, with hiking trails, rivers and waterfalls, as well
as populated with scores of pousadas from basic to quite lavish. For the
outdoors types this place has something for everyone.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBkOJRFu2zwPO8-y9vZiq33pnkXDXPfrgvfufzBiYtJsfQ5msr4CWG5vhQanMtGfSpgN1mARXUArYWOpMce57Mbo_eKYYrG2T3PQvzs9PhyphenhyphenS1R4cosZFliBsAN3myQmhzWrtGAfP9r-6tJ/s1600/P2160315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBkOJRFu2zwPO8-y9vZiq33pnkXDXPfrgvfufzBiYtJsfQ5msr4CWG5vhQanMtGfSpgN1mARXUArYWOpMce57Mbo_eKYYrG2T3PQvzs9PhyphenhyphenS1R4cosZFliBsAN3myQmhzWrtGAfP9r-6tJ/s1600/P2160315.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our chalet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY_HiZiim7qCpKSiMzX3wF2h3aZ_imHuQsSy3pFScvx8HLeUm62aJUDBV8FPBqMWnfQx6jvkOQuYJ6mlOcA9sduFhXGNXj8wSps9U0mlZVvpnO1ydwSH0sgezmRBkds1FngLw_UF25853t/s1600/P2160271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY_HiZiim7qCpKSiMzX3wF2h3aZ_imHuQsSy3pFScvx8HLeUm62aJUDBV8FPBqMWnfQx6jvkOQuYJ6mlOcA9sduFhXGNXj8wSps9U0mlZVvpnO1ydwSH0sgezmRBkds1FngLw_UF25853t/s1600/P2160271.JPG" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRN4wO3Nl_OMj2wvH5yP6zpJ4maa29aq87hLCIIlZDLP4diDMiVflMz0jF1Hq7DiJWkVpJ8ps4cjA0eG1Mge13uOnJd8pihskxMA2G5x8W2G18GWciPLasIsaQZOOx8rwyMHcKssY2tWG/s1600/P2150270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRN4wO3Nl_OMj2wvH5yP6zpJ4maa29aq87hLCIIlZDLP4diDMiVflMz0jF1Hq7DiJWkVpJ8ps4cjA0eG1Mge13uOnJd8pihskxMA2G5x8W2G18GWciPLasIsaQZOOx8rwyMHcKssY2tWG/s1600/P2150270.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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A good internet search and few phone calls brought us to
reserving a chalet at <a href="http://www.viscondedemaua.com.br/brilhodanatureza.html" target="_blank">Brilho da Natureza</a>. This place was perfect. Located one kilometer
further up the mountain from Maromba it was peaceful and absolutely beautiful. Our
chalet was right on the river with a natural swimming area just a few steps from
our veranda (although the mountain spring water was COLD).</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2ZGg2DjUva6lOBMiQbL-COUbM2ZazxaN9u-B0ReOVCaSKCTOM2uous6yKCFiub0cXUJaQIy6uOvv_rDfgfOAM3cMyDooiq9DEOmedAIcN-0Mlgs3l4Hqe-v3aeA13m2huIBW5i4A4Ipc/s1600/brilhodenatureza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2ZGg2DjUva6lOBMiQbL-COUbM2ZazxaN9u-B0ReOVCaSKCTOM2uous6yKCFiub0cXUJaQIy6uOvv_rDfgfOAM3cMyDooiq9DEOmedAIcN-0Mlgs3l4Hqe-v3aeA13m2huIBW5i4A4Ipc/s1600/brilhodenatureza.jpg" height="221" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pousada central, including the breakfast room.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefYIiPJNrCgxjbq52LL7XzFLelbSCm4PDNeXC1DawQ81MTzZhbT0Esc22OzEFijFcowOMOYK3WNmGtbWAPwjpnBKmpzx2Iy7BMtg0ium7tPmaZz-j3JuIOUOsAxgZ1S9QDQyTvB5wD1GL/s1600/P2150263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhefYIiPJNrCgxjbq52LL7XzFLelbSCm4PDNeXC1DawQ81MTzZhbT0Esc22OzEFijFcowOMOYK3WNmGtbWAPwjpnBKmpzx2Iy7BMtg0ium7tPmaZz-j3JuIOUOsAxgZ1S9QDQyTvB5wD1GL/s1600/P2150263.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji-lBhD0RpE652f6QdLDacDQWNo0I8F-0Qdci4k2kjoccZG6LtGK0_3GPGj1f98JvyaeqMxn5acsoh2V4_-khtwtsWGZCmgTf9AaLvc_iPqsj69YyQ8v9TqCZACTopPy0WXT2SDyA-RW1I/s1600/P2150266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji-lBhD0RpE652f6QdLDacDQWNo0I8F-0Qdci4k2kjoccZG6LtGK0_3GPGj1f98JvyaeqMxn5acsoh2V4_-khtwtsWGZCmgTf9AaLvc_iPqsj69YyQ8v9TqCZACTopPy0WXT2SDyA-RW1I/s1600/P2150266.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT_0g2D7qTyF7q1KIj_s07UqGEeB7OKrBWqrBt-wZ8nsBGiVK4xYvFN_zegSFKHdWfH4yZUBSMuYFdXXZl2_BLolO9bFhdLPfdqS6uPcZa8feELYn-q54HcVWDSYmJOVo5rUDpBzTLKuZw/s1600/P2150267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT_0g2D7qTyF7q1KIj_s07UqGEeB7OKrBWqrBt-wZ8nsBGiVK4xYvFN_zegSFKHdWfH4yZUBSMuYFdXXZl2_BLolO9bFhdLPfdqS6uPcZa8feELYn-q54HcVWDSYmJOVo5rUDpBzTLKuZw/s1600/P2150267.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They have 16 chalets in all over two pieces of riverside property.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The cool mountain air was SO refreshing. We very much
enjoyed a privilege most recently withheld from us in Rio’s record breaking
heat wave: sleeping in each other’s embrace under a blanket. Honeymoon bliss.
Good sleeping weather.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqhlls3dn8D_bEou2e8djJWY387QcdTktuhJOeBNNvalG5OoNUY3wTupjIIlEBFH5LHkRmj7qckw3TlHzZidcGEapJ4QYXskpVfVBrTiJ5zpn413EzeKXR3zEzFyp8bJihUvrtiPG-_FY/s1600/P2160313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqhlls3dn8D_bEou2e8djJWY387QcdTktuhJOeBNNvalG5OoNUY3wTupjIIlEBFH5LHkRmj7qckw3TlHzZidcGEapJ4QYXskpVfVBrTiJ5zpn413EzeKXR3zEzFyp8bJihUvrtiPG-_FY/s1600/P2160313.JPG" height="280" width="320" /></a></div>
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Temperatures during the day were in the 80s but after the
sun set the temperature dropped into the 60s. For us that’s pretty chilly
weather. We took advantage of the chill to make a romantic fire in our chalet’s
fireplace.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwLZ5QX14qeEc-Rz5lerK7znjmRC-67nvsJg7lhT-f7CI6Z9Rf34vrRo46qrM6axgR26ZPbo-MWVMbsfwFfOG01yb-INhch7JuJnz74pbl4TF2S4_ObV31wp8H3H7tJUvTPSjLp-TNRphW/s1600/brilhodenatureza2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwLZ5QX14qeEc-Rz5lerK7znjmRC-67nvsJg7lhT-f7CI6Z9Rf34vrRo46qrM6axgR26ZPbo-MWVMbsfwFfOG01yb-INhch7JuJnz74pbl4TF2S4_ObV31wp8H3H7tJUvTPSjLp-TNRphW/s1600/brilhodenatureza2.jpg" /></a></div>
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Waking up to a super delicious breakfast spread is the hallmark
of a good pousada in Brazil. Folks in the States would be blown away by the
extent and quality of the breakfast served in even the most modest of Brazilian
pousadas. Brilho da Natureza set a high bar in this regard. Nearly all of the
baked goods were fresh made on premises: bread, ham and cheese rolls, pão de
queijo, cookies, cakes, etc. Plus the cheeses, jams and honey were fresh from
area farms. Of course the juices served were fresh as well. To top things off,
after we sat down the delightful woman from the kitchen came over (with toddler
son in tow) to ask if we would like her to prepare us some eggs. Fantastic.</div>
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Our days were occupied hiking to waterfalls. Our evenings
were quiet, first walking to and through Maromba (longer to walk the one kilometer
to Maromba than to walk around the tiny village) and then snuggling in our cozy
chalet.</div>
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I’ll shut up and let the pictures speak for themselves.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh69n5p1D7_CNPZkl353xyaAcoTa9QR4xHwOQEfUCF3TA7kvqtPKsdqZI4fyLWjOCxFoN8bgW_ku9wl21d-kVLy8qGMZ8Pbjfu2NacivFUehIvbhSUJR8_YoLYPRr3ACaTH1XA_cibKIN/s1600/P2160295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh69n5p1D7_CNPZkl353xyaAcoTa9QR4xHwOQEfUCF3TA7kvqtPKsdqZI4fyLWjOCxFoN8bgW_ku9wl21d-kVLy8qGMZ8Pbjfu2NacivFUehIvbhSUJR8_YoLYPRr3ACaTH1XA_cibKIN/s1600/P2160295.JPG" height="320" width="234" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEc0AEnAVVmgF38Pw1aWjKs6GJR3pvo1JK-IrPTTiD5pAiVmcIb7jikodb4my0xb1Kx3rorBZOa65GwzNkrld6-c6LuvNDDj3hRFEy-rYJrVKG_HjCIfJVmzs1a9CJ49NhJYRwYJNQBX7d/s1600/P2170365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEc0AEnAVVmgF38Pw1aWjKs6GJR3pvo1JK-IrPTTiD5pAiVmcIb7jikodb4my0xb1Kx3rorBZOa65GwzNkrld6-c6LuvNDDj3hRFEy-rYJrVKG_HjCIfJVmzs1a9CJ49NhJYRwYJNQBX7d/s1600/P2170365.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy downtown Maromba.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0qWZFr_UYx_842Mh6MwBrtVo-0z27uaBP-uEgZRkacFSf_Nw52sASmPTPKIZ9YdEwFPr63Tr6EVsq6SahKVs_EII1az05V4kwfG9HTQ5r2NHmk56cy8Nv5R4G4JBsle44tsasXR3yltvI/s1600/P2190375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0qWZFr_UYx_842Mh6MwBrtVo-0z27uaBP-uEgZRkacFSf_Nw52sASmPTPKIZ9YdEwFPr63Tr6EVsq6SahKVs_EII1az05V4kwfG9HTQ5r2NHmk56cy8Nv5R4G4JBsle44tsasXR3yltvI/s1600/P2190375.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Sg8tQAM_EhjZHmcCvPqItqxMgonewmijEeIjg7IUqWrn4Tzoym0Kl_Irygus7KvdIjMNN7Jme_t3y1wpZbqywHLauHPTa47HwZJUnSbeE41hyGdUrUGfVpbcIo-sCXtzCH416QLqnTKb/s1600/P2170336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Sg8tQAM_EhjZHmcCvPqItqxMgonewmijEeIjg7IUqWrn4Tzoym0Kl_Irygus7KvdIjMNN7Jme_t3y1wpZbqywHLauHPTa47HwZJUnSbeE41hyGdUrUGfVpbcIo-sCXtzCH416QLqnTKb/s1600/P2170336.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cachoeira Porção da Moramba</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1mwYxyRX32EQ9sSh1MkDHyHDdIrR0VWrPxdvhsOzcNpOc8YrzzgJtwbFxBvqWpN95w6dmfNucnIODKImT2_gP9fiMqmBUfQRrVyMpce1QAbLxOfVDnTFUGkOlekCJVxSQVQXB5NDdc5LT/s1600/P2170349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1mwYxyRX32EQ9sSh1MkDHyHDdIrR0VWrPxdvhsOzcNpOc8YrzzgJtwbFxBvqWpN95w6dmfNucnIODKImT2_gP9fiMqmBUfQRrVyMpce1QAbLxOfVDnTFUGkOlekCJVxSQVQXB5NDdc5LT/s1600/P2170349.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luiz taking a blessing at Cachoeira Véu da Noiva (Bridal Veil)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRglL90fTBmc1dhOsW2fEc7xIgWenjDZuecbTTB9ktNIndeal0kWXbqyHXcrE9QlFUALCjUL0iCNzTTriU9vObzd19sDnyLg8gOa_dXFw7oW0INDo3oyi8_NQEYbY_i04ZOkJgVAiMjSt/s1600/P2190366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRglL90fTBmc1dhOsW2fEc7xIgWenjDZuecbTTB9ktNIndeal0kWXbqyHXcrE9QlFUALCjUL0iCNzTTriU9vObzd19sDnyLg8gOa_dXFw7oW0INDo3oyi8_NQEYbY_i04ZOkJgVAiMjSt/s1600/P2190366.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXytZyUu5ln_YrS-21LOizbyvecD_DChVHkG-7x45HpXjt60LKz0faFsFIS5S9DC-Iz1dmuEIhVwY6xxxbHhs3DVDoqgqCGKRGLcyDFAR2BKEcclyAFMR9oAo2qxyYjywHIRx9cZPcbL8L/s1600/P2190367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXytZyUu5ln_YrS-21LOizbyvecD_DChVHkG-7x45HpXjt60LKz0faFsFIS5S9DC-Iz1dmuEIhVwY6xxxbHhs3DVDoqgqCGKRGLcyDFAR2BKEcclyAFMR9oAo2qxyYjywHIRx9cZPcbL8L/s1600/P2190367.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What Luiz made look simple I struggled to complete. Yikes!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJu4UM0Dw2wKqDj4T2yqPs2xNkMF-4yAOk6CklNUZO5_FTFBvFJ6yaZP_QKOgGEBbm53LiKHK-QffaDGon7swBMHkWghHNdfpCS6Rhn9oHQMEZWilbHNI_Tj0lgY14ywqHlRvLebxy-XNM/s1600/P2170321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJu4UM0Dw2wKqDj4T2yqPs2xNkMF-4yAOk6CklNUZO5_FTFBvFJ6yaZP_QKOgGEBbm53LiKHK-QffaDGon7swBMHkWghHNdfpCS6Rhn9oHQMEZWilbHNI_Tj0lgY14ywqHlRvLebxy-XNM/s1600/P2170321.JPG" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cachoeira do Escorrega</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZpGi0oeieeSqkGTshi5Qf87A4l4HWCO2voaWn00j4RNXt6AyvfPnBiw2eacQ3OkCN-QR3RdQMvjE0lqIptN1xGrLWb5c_tN9VbDXdNzZopjZMP5oXsKuKZlIzt-sFVrUxQ_JcK4inLIq/s1600/P2160297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZpGi0oeieeSqkGTshi5Qf87A4l4HWCO2voaWn00j4RNXt6AyvfPnBiw2eacQ3OkCN-QR3RdQMvjE0lqIptN1xGrLWb5c_tN9VbDXdNzZopjZMP5oXsKuKZlIzt-sFVrUxQ_JcK4inLIq/s1600/P2160297.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyS-OLjOVyLYMD2eJMoZ96dn_BZgrKdCRwb7bENbBmdg7WGrTsASIbkAY9ASVurSf5S1_pfZUhvLPCHJD2PJdf5B3QAiYzj6x-77TQ0tVat8UW37slie2O5U2kCGaqv7302AtsNs132SQF/s1600/P2190409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyS-OLjOVyLYMD2eJMoZ96dn_BZgrKdCRwb7bENbBmdg7WGrTsASIbkAY9ASVurSf5S1_pfZUhvLPCHJD2PJdf5B3QAiYzj6x-77TQ0tVat8UW37slie2O5U2kCGaqv7302AtsNs132SQF/s1600/P2190409.JPG" height="320" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portuguese speakers will get the joke.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
True to our style of adventure we spotted a tiny, makeshift “restaurant”
on the banks of the main river in the area. Drawn in by its funky charm (and the
big sign advertising fresh grilled trout for 2 for R$25) we decided to enjoy an
early lunch to take advantage of this unlikely but super scenic restaurant.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdrxEx02bJs3rorK9mp6rHb3J5ygzH2WaA8zZ4cJdd3PRPI_8LhPnq8VM6W92k-SvWp6tjI8biG1VgT1zP6tCIyuJ8_ryqgWT3WiDLFWGT-yGQXvs-IduOGWea3a8XjDB3nHJX_EV63Y1/s1600/P2160306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdrxEx02bJs3rorK9mp6rHb3J5ygzH2WaA8zZ4cJdd3PRPI_8LhPnq8VM6W92k-SvWp6tjI8biG1VgT1zP6tCIyuJ8_ryqgWT3WiDLFWGT-yGQXvs-IduOGWea3a8XjDB3nHJX_EV63Y1/s1600/P2160306.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanking our proud host.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8pPpWVIgQb_SHXI0vRgV2gbiS9Y30wGgeT_H-p2O5KGuJx2VktXifZNBEcPGEoekxM9Akoe6FYYOKmQf8WnnQ1_SotOFTEtnK6rZV4Wt2vy9KUnashbTEcaBckwJ14iqyEkdSqXZAG9DK/s1600/P2160304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8pPpWVIgQb_SHXI0vRgV2gbiS9Y30wGgeT_H-p2O5KGuJx2VktXifZNBEcPGEoekxM9Akoe6FYYOKmQf8WnnQ1_SotOFTEtnK6rZV4Wt2vy9KUnashbTEcaBckwJ14iqyEkdSqXZAG9DK/s1600/P2160304.JPG" height="270" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trout lunch was fantastic.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmNi5KnBadkdgtc9HdBU01TJT0T0tce50pFWhdUjCBGjOEJx9dJTLyRhRUjjpgShlWYl6p1nch1HAf94xd1Kj08yAUyEw3TtMuq_VYfB8k8I2Yim5CF-loiOmMV_d37rb71lnlUikPg6OH/s1600/P2160305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmNi5KnBadkdgtc9HdBU01TJT0T0tce50pFWhdUjCBGjOEJx9dJTLyRhRUjjpgShlWYl6p1nch1HAf94xd1Kj08yAUyEw3TtMuq_VYfB8k8I2Yim5CF-loiOmMV_d37rb71lnlUikPg6OH/s1600/P2160305.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
After three nights in Maromba we decided to relocate to
Maringá just 3 kilometers down the road. Maringá is the tourist hub in the area
(exceeding Viconde de Mauá proper in this regard as well). Still a small village,
Maringá afforded us more restaurant choices and some boutique shopping as well.
The Rio Preto river runs through this tiny town and is also the geographical
border between Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais states. The town has a decidedly
Minas feel, which was just fine with me. I absolutely LOVE comida Mineira (food
from Minas Gerais).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYz-gAjg7RyGThHXs74ArSOODFjF5zeDSf9DeQSIc74zqBwGdhhj7sdrRBwiVXvBIHX0jGst2AFmu0EIFNiU_MwAYJsK9tNVH3zIGYpPkPyPoHpfs_7gVDwE8eoTjbIw0YCUzj6gzNW2-B/s1600/P2190410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYz-gAjg7RyGThHXs74ArSOODFjF5zeDSf9DeQSIc74zqBwGdhhj7sdrRBwiVXvBIHX0jGst2AFmu0EIFNiU_MwAYJsK9tNVH3zIGYpPkPyPoHpfs_7gVDwE8eoTjbIw0YCUzj6gzNW2-B/s1600/P2190410.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The busy main intersection in Maringá.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Shopping is not really our thing, but we love finding a deal
and especially love buying from the source as much as possible. While in Maringá
we pretty much avoided all the boutiques (except the ice cream and chocolate
shops). As an alternative we kept an eye out for “direct from the source” opportunities.
As such we bought fresh berry preserves from a woman behind a rickety roadside
stand, a jar of unprocessed honey (complete with tiny bee bits floating in the
product) from a family tending bees in the area, goat cheese and sausage from a
delicatessen featuring local products, and – our favorite – tiny paper flowers
and fabric butterflies on long thin reeds made by a local retired
pharmacist-turned artisan.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQy4e5UwxpTra6ytxZhV_wAl_dnobzM0wYvcliSpg0Dq4biLaMarz9qLDq7noNZ9ZpHmQVhOYR1Oj3E2GvHkTrnki8EUu2iSRCjRUGzmhaNd1AG8VO7cQWbv5CJUfd46BJ5mzUNZD5AB1/s1600/P2240002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQy4e5UwxpTra6ytxZhV_wAl_dnobzM0wYvcliSpg0Dq4biLaMarz9qLDq7noNZ9ZpHmQVhOYR1Oj3E2GvHkTrnki8EUu2iSRCjRUGzmhaNd1AG8VO7cQWbv5CJUfd46BJ5mzUNZD5AB1/s1600/P2240002.JPG" height="320" width="136" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luiz requested butterflies without the reeds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Having spotted “the flower lady” on the street making a delivery
of her wares to a boutique for resale, we asked how we might reconnect with her
in the coming days to buy some of her flowers. She invited us to her home to
check out the possibilities. Sorry to say I do not have a picture of Carmen's tiny
cottage home/studio. It was super cute: teeny tiny, filled with art, super
organized efficient kitchen, steep stairs/ladder to the bedroom loft, and 8
visiting humming birds buzzing around a feeder hanging from an eave over her porch.
When we visited we found the cottage a short distance up a driveway to a much
larger main house. As is traditional in Brazil, we clapped loudly when approaching
the house to signal our visit. Carmen called out from her kitchen for us to
enter via the side walkway (the front path had a wobbly stone step). We spent
the next hour or so having coffee at her kitchen table, admiring her work, and
sorting out which flowers and butterflies Luiz wanted for later use in his own
flower arrangements.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExwzgITTx5VcHYtOk_7wyL_XX4onzn2CMxH_JXHhCyj_uixArC2s2n8Xd7paIGl_ECJFR3s84gqB2Jk1f6czZzwz1aw1FQy_1siZ3hOgCmiWOBW9KTw_pFePzjJGEb9tk9Imeww0_nPW-/s1600/P2240003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExwzgITTx5VcHYtOk_7wyL_XX4onzn2CMxH_JXHhCyj_uixArC2s2n8Xd7paIGl_ECJFR3s84gqB2Jk1f6czZzwz1aw1FQy_1siZ3hOgCmiWOBW9KTw_pFePzjJGEb9tk9Imeww0_nPW-/s1600/P2240003.JPG" height="320" width="309" /></a></div>
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We had done well choosing this area for our honeymoon
getaway. It was all the nature we could want plus sufficient tourism
infrastructure to make it easy and convenient. Pousada and restaurant prices
have gone up all over Brazil and that was apparent here as well. But there were
still values to be found. Our strategy of arriving late in a weekend and
staying through the weekdays worked well to get us good deals on the pousadas
we stayed in. It also meant that there was next to no one at the waterfalls we
visited. We hiked all alone (except for the huge green snake with half a frog
sticking out of its mouth that crossed our path one day) and never saw more
than three or four people at a waterfall. Most of our time we were in
our own private paradise. But we did learn an important piece of information
about little Maringá. It is basically a weekend-only village. Nearly ALL of the
shops and restaurants were CLOSED Monday through Thursday. It was kind of
weird. But the locals just shrugged and said there was next to no business
during the week, so it made sense to them. Be forewarned.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-73951576436674490972014-02-13T18:30:00.001-02:002014-02-21T12:33:00.621-03:00Adventures of a care package from the States<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XF9gtHbRVBCn1vRFdkcsRaL_Ry8rPErykAPPJq2F_yUy4tsE-xH1wnitUL01MData6izQbkX2H_8JbqQdqjq9ERmIKuNlJA0bmBOQwuL2U7hRibP4x7yQRvVvMjIdEBqBTvd_hoaAx_i/s1600/care+pkg8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_XF9gtHbRVBCn1vRFdkcsRaL_Ry8rPErykAPPJq2F_yUy4tsE-xH1wnitUL01MData6izQbkX2H_8JbqQdqjq9ERmIKuNlJA0bmBOQwuL2U7hRibP4x7yQRvVvMjIdEBqBTvd_hoaAx_i/s1600/care+pkg8.jpg" height="303" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are few pleasures as joyful as getting a care package
from a friend or family member filled with the stuff you want, really want, or
the stuff that’s simply impossible to find where you currently are. Sometimes
it is just the idea of a care package that soothes the soul. Oh, a box filled
with your favorite things…</div>
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It is often the case for many an expat here in Brazil that
the emotionally comforting box also promises to save you a bundle of money.
Getting any sort of electronics, baby items, specialty bath items, or even some
simple kitchen zip lock bags can mean cost savings easily into the hundreds of
$Reais over having to purchase them locally.</div>
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But – as any expat in Brazil will tell you: care packages
are more easily dreamt of than realized. Finding an ally in the States to pack
it and make a trip to the post office; paying the crazy expensive shipping
fees; passing through customs without being slapped with ridiculous import
taxes; or even just seeing a fully realized delivery in an understandable
length of time -- believe me, there are bumps in the road in the life of a care
package.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXQiGw26nYQPIRLRCpJ4A7OYuKiJoNKaTJ4ayEd5INtBIsvHgzu0TCm-KP35iWWpOldUxL0KT_DFKytJYmhP9eCm1oYdD8xropBiUhyphenhyphen1jcXX7QJX0vHErf0Sh_cibsXfABAt_0m-YNSRi/s1600/bumps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXQiGw26nYQPIRLRCpJ4A7OYuKiJoNKaTJ4ayEd5INtBIsvHgzu0TCm-KP35iWWpOldUxL0KT_DFKytJYmhP9eCm1oYdD8xropBiUhyphenhyphen1jcXX7QJX0vHErf0Sh_cibsXfABAt_0m-YNSRi/s1600/bumps.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
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Several months ago my beloved iPod Shuffle bit the dust.
Luiz had encouraged me to buy a backup Shuffle when we were in Florida last
May, but I foolishly ignored his good advice. My iPod is a daily companion
while riding busses, standing/sitting in lines, or just going for a walk in the
evening. Losing my best electronic friend was motivation enough to try and
scare up a care package from the States.</div>
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Locally I could buy a replacement 4g Mp3 player (Sandisk)
for about R$225 on Mercado Livre, Brazil’s eBay, plus shipping. The same item
at Amazon.com goes for $R84, with free shipping within the US. Buying an actual
iPod down here would just be stupid expensive… I don’t have a cell phone (by
choice), so obviously I cannot use my phone to play Mp3 or Mp4 files.</div>
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So I figured I would bundle up some other items Luiz and I
would like and leverage it all into a value-filled box of practical and “treat”
items. A true care package.</div>
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Here’s the story. (Heads up – this is a rather long post.
But it is a good one.)</div>
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<i>[Note: values in this
post are listed in Brazlian reais, not US dollars. I earn and spend reais, so
dollar values are really irrelevant. All things considered, residents of the US
can just think in terms of dollars and get a feel for the relative costs – i.e.
shit is expensive, plus salaries are lower. Unless you earn dollars and are
spending in reais, <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2011/04/expatriate-salary-purchasing-power.html" target="_blank">making a currency conversion is misleading</a>. For the record,
values here are based on a 1:2.4 exchange rate from dollars to reais.]<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqkpqh5-DufrX3jKKgnakWZh6fEFDKQxrrVIUnROWiFPm0GTuYxKmoMKMZ-DU8d6Y_wPzoFEIjJpoevBvGCCCR8ywurqfC-vr6cXk30Aq5C-YbJMH3gOFAVL-upSecl7OWODwBSqhqoVBL/s1600/messages.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqkpqh5-DufrX3jKKgnakWZh6fEFDKQxrrVIUnROWiFPm0GTuYxKmoMKMZ-DU8d6Y_wPzoFEIjJpoevBvGCCCR8ywurqfC-vr6cXk30Aq5C-YbJMH3gOFAVL-upSecl7OWODwBSqhqoVBL/s1600/messages.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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In September 2013 I casually inserted an off topic request into
a Face Book msg with a dear friend in the States. Actual msgs.:</div>
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Me: “Hey - another topic - my iPod died. I went to look at
replacements and saw one - super cheapo Chinese-made thing for R$90. Then I
looked on Amazon.com and they sell the exact same thing for R$12.” </div>
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Unsuspecting friend: “No shit! Really?” </div>
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Me: “Any chance I can buy what I want and ship it to you and
have you drop it in the mail to me? I could also pull together a short grocery
store list. LOL.” Electronics here are shit and STILL stupid expensive.”<br />
<br /></div>
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Unsuspecting friend: “Sure no problem.”</div>
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<br /></div>
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Me: “Sorry to put you out so much, but there are some
shortcomings to being here that get you to lean on family and friends for
relief. Thanks.”</div>
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Unsuspecting friend: “Happy to help. I love you.”</div>
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Hook set.</div>
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Feeling only mildly guilty for roping a dear friend into
what I knew was going to be more than what she bargained for I went online to
shop for a few items and had them shipped to her house. She really does love
Luiz and I and she really does have a super huge generous heart. I had my
fingers crossed this would go as smoothly as possible. But I had my doubts.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46SCYSJfqOHY5puWW-XCSL2B-d4FMaqZ-_r4inkt_nq2-cwUd1QtjHejQnS-DiBbCvOrwEFYxGDw6FEsv0I87DiYCcLOv9cZ_KQ_Q38aXu5XwmvIPEOdvP1nApl2hE7t_K_bgJ1zEHV_J/s1600/luggage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg46SCYSJfqOHY5puWW-XCSL2B-d4FMaqZ-_r4inkt_nq2-cwUd1QtjHejQnS-DiBbCvOrwEFYxGDw6FEsv0I87DiYCcLOv9cZ_KQ_Q38aXu5XwmvIPEOdvP1nApl2hE7t_K_bgJ1zEHV_J/s1600/luggage.jpg" height="320" width="255" /></a></div>
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Those of us who live here and have traveled back to the
States for a visit know the immediate popularity you receive when others learn
of your vacation plans. Phone calls, emails and msgs stream in with lists of
items people either casually ask you to bring back for them or quite brashly
insist won’t be any trouble for you to buy and bring back on their behalf. This
is the kind of favor you agree to do only once. You quickly learn that being a
mule for others desperate for a bottle of maple syrup or a new notebook
computer is ALWAYS more trouble than it is worth. Transporting things is a
favor reserved for those on your short list.</div>
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<br />
But just putting a box in the mail… simple, right?</div>
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Let me see if I can shrink this 4+ month saga into a few
paragraphs. Yep. You read that right. 4+ months.<br />
<br /></div>
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Like I said, not long after my friend agreed to help out I
went online and bought an Mp3 player plus five rainbow hot air balloon wind
spinners. Luiz brought one of these wind catchers back in May and uses it to
grab attention at his flowers booth in the park on the weekends. EVERY weekend
people ask him if it is for sale. While it costs R$36 online in the US, he can
easily sell it for R$110 here in the park. These would be re-sale items to help
pay for the box.<br />
<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUVVofqp_qRHmK3gga3_jzJYBdMBmNHUK2yV1tKp3CgPoBpc4HMUiVjZC0gMKSDGreVXMrxU_BcRtNFHD5H9PLFUMvAi9kDDpVRCSLLqQQzlCjLI8iNyvJuduD7vGWVG6AcoiwoYOT_D6/s1600/balloon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUVVofqp_qRHmK3gga3_jzJYBdMBmNHUK2yV1tKp3CgPoBpc4HMUiVjZC0gMKSDGreVXMrxU_BcRtNFHD5H9PLFUMvAi9kDDpVRCSLLqQQzlCjLI8iNyvJuduD7vGWVG6AcoiwoYOT_D6/s1600/balloon.jpg" height="320" width="96" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
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As promised, I sent my friend a short list of items to pick
up at the grocery store, plus, as is generally the case, I added a few
additional items that would require an extra trip to a housewares store on our
behalf. Oops- I was acting like the others I have so little patience for. But I
repeated time and again that my friend could say no to anything and that I
would be grateful to get just the basics. And there was no time rush. Of course
my dear friend was happy to tack more errands onto her personal favor for me.
The monster had begun to grow its second head.</div>
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Before long I was occupying space in my friend’s garage as
the pile of items grew. First in the pile were the items from Amazon.com., then
the stuff from the grocery store. </div>
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<br /></div>
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I was hoping the things from the discount housewares store
would be fun to shop for (keeping Luiz’s smiling face in mind). We did, in
fact, have fun with this. Well, I certainly had fun. I hope the feeling was
mutual. It became clear to me that my friend and her partner were embarking on
a multi-stop errand morning. They were messaging me photos of fun stuff from
various stores along their journey. I was giving the thumbs up or down. It was
a virtual shopping adventure at Sam’s Club, HomeGoods and elsewhere from the
comfort of my home office. My fingers were crossed that they were not too
quickly tiring of the whole affair. I certainly had fun.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLrR64OPQp4jpN_7Rp2VwciEbbPmFTkAQDvUlgHI5z4-Ju-vv2DzlXBaHF0IqLUczuD7I1nPvt3HGQUYniQ_8ln8xG228R4qOeekG7PU7HkNM3iREw70LcqZbLHbv7fTY1kRVWdHwZdXw/s1600/care+pkg4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLrR64OPQp4jpN_7Rp2VwciEbbPmFTkAQDvUlgHI5z4-Ju-vv2DzlXBaHF0IqLUczuD7I1nPvt3HGQUYniQ_8ln8xG228R4qOeekG7PU7HkNM3iREw70LcqZbLHbv7fTY1kRVWdHwZdXw/s1600/care+pkg4.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip5D7HYHBTNG3lzFE0ygeZyVLbhYoSWZxW_d-gfxxNZ0x0LbLjxpEwHcAXw4fvzVip2vM5zWn3rJN-EWH703ib9gBwEUfWmx1mV8Xzc7-0bSfQLsXnqc84toKIqS8bVKeoymMEBY9U7qeE/s1600/care+pkg6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip5D7HYHBTNG3lzFE0ygeZyVLbhYoSWZxW_d-gfxxNZ0x0LbLjxpEwHcAXw4fvzVip2vM5zWn3rJN-EWH703ib9gBwEUfWmx1mV8Xzc7-0bSfQLsXnqc84toKIqS8bVKeoymMEBY9U7qeE/s1600/care+pkg6.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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The pile in the garage (and another head) grew. Once
everything was in hand it was ready to be shipped.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Reality check: none of this was “on the way” in the course
of my friends’ lives. Making time to accomplish the shopping, the packing, the
shipping… That time had to be carved out from an already hectic and tiring weekly
routine. That pile in the garage was not going to get to Brazil on its own.
There needed to be packing material, shipping tape, boxes (we decided to go
with two smaller boxes over one large one to try and avoid unwanted attention
from the Brazilian Customs office), and ultimately time standing in line at the
post office. The monster continued to grow heads.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt2GuiP6PZkZ-8hqwB99D0pfw3_kcR_RY27bH9GAjxEWAZQatiIPkBmqfItwBBQb1TskkIQ70-R2gXDB4rKlSiU0SfQTeOl-qsQEpQ3AuEM24fcIfBMNPyKkXoHHX7ZQrZ2uEqydQgH2Fq/s1600/care+pkg2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt2GuiP6PZkZ-8hqwB99D0pfw3_kcR_RY27bH9GAjxEWAZQatiIPkBmqfItwBBQb1TskkIQ70-R2gXDB4rKlSiU0SfQTeOl-qsQEpQ3AuEM24fcIfBMNPyKkXoHHX7ZQrZ2uEqydQgH2Fq/s1600/care+pkg2.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
For my part, my emails and FB messages oozed with happy talk
and words of thanks and encouragement. As the weeks went by I knew my friend
was feeling pressure to get these boxes in the mail and harbored a growing
desire to get that damn monkey off her back. I assured her there was no rush. I
suggested she forget about the whole thing until after the holidays when life
would calm down a bit and the lines at the post office would return to their
normal slow-moving selves. Keep breathing. Don’t go sour on me.</div>
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<br /></div>
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As my friend would come to discover, there is a bit of a
trick to packing a box for international shipping. To save space it is best to
remove extraneous packaging from the original items. Shipping costs are
calculated by weight AND size. Protect fragile items. Evenly distribute weight
among the boxes.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You could write a book on the tips and tricks for getting
your box shipped without drama through Customs. Everyone has their favorite
method – or wants to learn yours. Gringos here can tag a hundred replies to a post
on Face Book trying to help out a fellow care package dreamer. Do this, don’t
do that…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here’s what we did. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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The main issues are postage and avoiding import taxes. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXJviAfCjPZ2CDKTDcGO1YVi_o4m2V8EPbJSSBjE2js7fAKWSfQ6Cy8qEpeNvJ6qNYxfmQl4eIWLkCjvrbnsSeT4qemVNRmMvix1HzQyMvZGRCzcF4eBgeLIVgoMXJ4XtJOONhOQ029Qui/s1600/Shipping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXJviAfCjPZ2CDKTDcGO1YVi_o4m2V8EPbJSSBjE2js7fAKWSfQ6Cy8qEpeNvJ6qNYxfmQl4eIWLkCjvrbnsSeT4qemVNRmMvix1HzQyMvZGRCzcF4eBgeLIVgoMXJ4XtJOONhOQ029Qui/s1600/Shipping.jpg" height="236" width="320" /></a></div>
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It seems like I've heard stories from all over the spectrum
regarding shipping. Some folks swear by UPS for a promised delivery, even
though it may cost a little more. UPS is supposed to handle the package right
to your door, but I've heard tales of it being plopped into the Brazilian postal
service for the final bit. If this is so, it trumps any “strategy” to avoid a
grumpy Correio (Brazilian postal service) worker who never really attempts a
delivery but just fills out paperwork documenting three attempts to no avail
and then sends your package back to the sender.</div>
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Some folks swear by Brazil’s postal service, citing
international comparisons that place their level of service well above average.
So for them going with the US Postal Service who then hands things off to
Correio is a fine choice.</div>
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Everyone, it seems, has a horror story. Folks talk of
waiting months for a completed delivery. Many folks speak of pieces of postage
and packages alike disappearing into thin air (the common assumption is that they
are snatched up by workers along the way, for whatever reason).</div>
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For me, actual cost trumps real or imagined tales of woe. I
go with the US Postal Service.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9V3rrrB5yzkDghHLjDLfU2se4TIYNYA_ReoPq0-DpcPUQVB6XjXAAPYei7sROrxbcyo4P-1K01bECCtFLHoX8R25J95Y_RY1_A8CQZ_w7BaN_2mA6wYLYaHBCMnCbf5vS55fzjYmom1hv/s1600/customs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9V3rrrB5yzkDghHLjDLfU2se4TIYNYA_ReoPq0-DpcPUQVB6XjXAAPYei7sROrxbcyo4P-1K01bECCtFLHoX8R25J95Y_RY1_A8CQZ_w7BaN_2mA6wYLYaHBCMnCbf5vS55fzjYmom1hv/s1600/customs.jpg" /></a></div>
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Then there is the concern over if and/or how much the
package(s) will be taxed by the Brazilian Customs office for the contents therein.
Scary tales of ridiculous taxes assessed on boxes of used clothing and such abound.
How do they discern what is in the package? Mostly you tell them by whatever is
written on the required Customs Declaration form that gets affixed to the
outside of the box. The form requests a “detailed description of contents” and
their value. Plus they guesstimate further value if you have paid for extended
insurance coverage. And many times if a tax is assessed they will include the
cost of shipping when totaling the to-be-taxed value (go figure…). The tax is 60% of the value of most items.</div>
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Generally speaking, shipping veterans encourage you to be
more general in your description and to try and keep declared values below
US$50 to avoid drawing the attention of the tax man. So for example, we chose
descriptions like: “kitchen ingredients” and “party decorations” to generally
describe most of the items being shipped. If particular items fail to make the
inventory, well, sometimes innocent mistakes can happen.</div>
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We divided all our items into two boxes so that a smaller
value could be declared for each. Shipping costs would go up, but if import
taxes were avoided then we would save in the end. General inventories were made
and the value of each was kept well below US$50.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7z_4_t6LIduNlBkdatzUWBpwP7XCaJitabh3GEvMwZJV5c9tIGrtfoaQAtWfU5M4BHp27yOs8aBKOCi6Vn4cL3A1HtEheFsOqyXL-Zz1OyT-rjGxZ7yMHQoHishaQXNOGgGtIe9s2iAXf/s1600/P2080203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7z_4_t6LIduNlBkdatzUWBpwP7XCaJitabh3GEvMwZJV5c9tIGrtfoaQAtWfU5M4BHp27yOs8aBKOCi6Vn4cL3A1HtEheFsOqyXL-Zz1OyT-rjGxZ7yMHQoHishaQXNOGgGtIe9s2iAXf/s1600/P2080203.JPG" height="251" width="320" /></a></div>
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As an extra bit of “strategy” to avoid a randomly tired or
irritated Customs worker who might be therefore choosing to be especially stern
or strict in the execution of their duties, we prominently taped a number of
pictures of Jesus, the cross, and some common prayers to most of the surfaces
of the boxes. I listen to countless people go on about Jesus, Mary and the
Father around here, why not work that to our advantage? Kinda like the
survivors on <i>The Walking Dead</i>
smearing rotting flesh all over themselves to avoid being seen by the “walker”
zombies. Make our packages invisible.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2V9Ff8h-hxadI9JKrG6PEe5nwlwDF2UNT6e9dhZ9yKoeGbYEh_eeWvI_q61BKIlCmnw5yiZWkFVlI8bI1YLhFHrJ9orRSZCPrwuhZb62eyXurlDMHeUWL1IUxtWE3iwwfnAjGH3hNuHHQ/s1600/P2080201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2V9Ff8h-hxadI9JKrG6PEe5nwlwDF2UNT6e9dhZ9yKoeGbYEh_eeWvI_q61BKIlCmnw5yiZWkFVlI8bI1YLhFHrJ9orRSZCPrwuhZb62eyXurlDMHeUWL1IUxtWE3iwwfnAjGH3hNuHHQ/s1600/P2080201.JPG" height="260" width="320" /></a></div>
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Around the last week of January my by now weary dear friend
found her way to the post office to wait in line and finally peel that monkey,
now entering adolescence, off her back. At this point we had done all we could
to make this whole care package folie à deux a good experience and avoid it
turning into a super expensive shipping and tax adventure gone wrong. Everything
was in Jesus’ hands, if you will. Note: the postal worker in the States looked
at our piously adorned boxes and asked if they were being shipped to a
missionary. My friend bit her lip and said “No, we just want the Lord to look
after them along the way.” With that the packages were sent. Done. Multi-headed
monster slain. (Thank you!!)</div>
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To wrap this part up… the shipping time was actually quite
surprising. Once they were dropped off at the post office they were dispatched
to a sorting facility in another city. The online tracking details reveal that
it took 4 days for them to pass through that facility and be sent to Brazil.
Seven days later they passed through a sorting facility in Brazil, clearing
Customs. The very next day they were both delivered to our door by noon. Just
12 days! Record time.</div>
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Plus, there were NO TAXES applied to our care packages. Whoo
hoo!! Big score. Thank you Jesus!</div>
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Now – to run the math. Was this whole rigamarole worth it?
The willingness on the part of our dear friend and her partner to help us out
was simply priceless. That value cannot be put into the equation. But I can
give you a general idea about content values and overall expenses.</div>
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Our total shipping costs were R$396 (about US$165). That
seems like a high bar to get over to recoup a savings on items shipped. But don’t
forget, we are talking about Brazil. Shit is expensive here.</div>
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The money we saved <b><i>over just three items</i></b>: the Mp3
player, a single 120 count bottle of 1,500 mg glucosamine dietary supplement caplets,
and a collection of 12 boutique bath soaps MORE than paid for the shipping. The
Mp3 player was R$141 cheaper in the States. The supplements were an
unbelievable R$304 cheaper. And the soaps were about R$125 cheaper. Everything
else was gravy. And a valuable gravy at that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinh9GxI6Hs0Y6aUKj55GvuzEbAtf4ExzT4ZjvMzmEqlcsCRSOV6HeX-CuxXcffyexxZ5AGe-VLqTqnl8t4Wnoex5NECeDcHc0I_9M8dCvO6wobb28KRFoFxZLTYAywiq_iu6Yg8BgMmjyc/s1600/P2110205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinh9GxI6Hs0Y6aUKj55GvuzEbAtf4ExzT4ZjvMzmEqlcsCRSOV6HeX-CuxXcffyexxZ5AGe-VLqTqnl8t4Wnoex5NECeDcHc0I_9M8dCvO6wobb28KRFoFxZLTYAywiq_iu6Yg8BgMmjyc/s1600/P2110205.JPG" height="320" width="275" /></a></div>
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Opening the care package was like Christmas in February. In
addition to things already mentioned there was stuff for Luiz’s flower design
activities, Thai curries for me in the kitchen, other beloved spices and
extracts, and more. Yeah! </div>
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All in all it is a process worth doing, if only once. But be
careful. And hope for some luck. If we had been hit with import taxes this
whole tale would have had a sour ending. Be creative. Buy a Christian wall
calendar and use the images… hahaha. </div>
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If you are a dear friend back in the country of origin of your
good buddy abroad – have a heart. Be patient with us. We really, really
appreciate the extra effort it requires to make a care package happen. And if
you are coming for a visit, consider bringing an extra piece of luggage – care package
express.</div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-63958170174656787692014-02-03T07:07:00.000-02:002014-02-03T08:39:50.909-02:00Carnaval Blocos de Rua in Rio<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kEJ7t56b-mO43HGWhfh-REXVeb_lGYp7QxJYUsATAxtIyG9aMFiEXQVQWrfmD9TwCdEtKqChC7xB99uN5VWcAnMpEJ5jPFthqvjO7dlvrUpKRH0HO4rcdoXB6A82Z_4XnM5jj7TtF6Hn/s1600/Blocos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4kEJ7t56b-mO43HGWhfh-REXVeb_lGYp7QxJYUsATAxtIyG9aMFiEXQVQWrfmD9TwCdEtKqChC7xB99uN5VWcAnMpEJ5jPFthqvjO7dlvrUpKRH0HO4rcdoXB6A82Z_4XnM5jj7TtF6Hn/s1600/Blocos.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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At last count there are 523 blocos (neighborhood street
parties) scheduled in Rio from now through Carnaval 2014. I've got news for
you. If you come to Rio for Carnaval and don’t have a good time… you are
probably in a coma. For a growing list of Rio’s blocos, <a href="http://www.diariodorio.com/blocos-2014/" target="_blank">go here</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-X95hFYQNie-9hDP00y2qqZEElm27CSE-PHyLoXDyMnw0E0hLCrmHY-wzbJkZvnp_I6sreBMo-7A_94aR2Uigk9LfIJHuVgIxLzF_6BJ8ESOlGnGtCXrUHeeYRS0n8ONCCXoVd4VcEyU/s1600/blocos1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD-X95hFYQNie-9hDP00y2qqZEElm27CSE-PHyLoXDyMnw0E0hLCrmHY-wzbJkZvnp_I6sreBMo-7A_94aR2Uigk9LfIJHuVgIxLzF_6BJ8ESOlGnGtCXrUHeeYRS0n8ONCCXoVd4VcEyU/s1600/blocos1.jpg" height="210" width="320" /></a></div>
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All too often the mistake is made that Carnaval in Rio is
all, and exclusively, about the main event: the over-the-top fantastic <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2014/01/2014-rio-carnaval-tickets.html" target="_blank">Carnaval Parade</a> in the Sambadrome that takes place all night and into the dawn on Sunday
and Monday nights. That is truly a once in a lifetime party that should be on
your bucket list. But the spirit of the loooong holiday weekend is definitely
embedded in Rio’s residents, its neighborhoods and the very organic eruptions
of neighborhood pride packed into its Blocos.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7LTGQxdElmh8bndIZ7Ytup2afxKvx8cCOZ0YKPI0z6tuwG3My9jYU85cg-j0DJ6TqSfAuz7l3yuxUGlllBgPHZ5wlPBNXK5cGUcy_aulOrfobbjvquRYCup8Cswwg8ljtUMFb-PAlhfo4/s1600/blocos5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7LTGQxdElmh8bndIZ7Ytup2afxKvx8cCOZ0YKPI0z6tuwG3My9jYU85cg-j0DJ6TqSfAuz7l3yuxUGlllBgPHZ5wlPBNXK5cGUcy_aulOrfobbjvquRYCup8Cswwg8ljtUMFb-PAlhfo4/s1600/blocos5.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirx4vB8llEnlE-f3tjSL3fppI_0wMiMU436hejYZiagpZJPN2LeIjRqgo_iKjEcvM3Y0nUDwhYrHKqZscayux78Ow50rN8NISE43FKxYdlV6rU0oYRZFFzsfYGkZahZSS9Xr0LSPbVGG30/s1600/blocos6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirx4vB8llEnlE-f3tjSL3fppI_0wMiMU436hejYZiagpZJPN2LeIjRqgo_iKjEcvM3Y0nUDwhYrHKqZscayux78Ow50rN8NISE43FKxYdlV6rU0oYRZFFzsfYGkZahZSS9Xr0LSPbVGG30/s1600/blocos6.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMBZntuBVAoPa87jvS-GZZRk4WNGmM9XdAlNc6eblZ0ujTYh5WrNbXe8YuurmMxT0l4MqVi9bWhQysUHoKDyMaXIvie0dRkc63aUaSkHctMek48QeCcLAaVM2vBj4LxYMXdwjsVXmwR4-F/s1600/blocos7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMBZntuBVAoPa87jvS-GZZRk4WNGmM9XdAlNc6eblZ0ujTYh5WrNbXe8YuurmMxT0l4MqVi9bWhQysUHoKDyMaXIvie0dRkc63aUaSkHctMek48QeCcLAaVM2vBj4LxYMXdwjsVXmwR4-F/s1600/blocos7.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Blocos</span><span class="apple-converted-space"><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">are the free,
no tickets required, popular street parties that are the main popular
expression of Carnaval throughout Rio. Blocos typically include live music, parading,
party/costume themes and sometimes a performance stage. The bigger events may
include a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trio_el%C3%A9trico" target="_blank">trio elétrico</a>. All blocos are a riot of music, beer, celebration, beer,
community pride, beer, and just plain fun, fun, fun.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Rn21Zjk7gRQZumDW4DNrspP6sNhzHHRFmeIBMuna4E6JvU3341dO2ek-1JU0jFLjZ5zVhOnnWo_LVoVWcny64nHA_xy4Sal98_aRxHx-5vBnM8S82O6Ndez4-9GBEjH7seWP4LcO25gT/s1600/blocos3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Rn21Zjk7gRQZumDW4DNrspP6sNhzHHRFmeIBMuna4E6JvU3341dO2ek-1JU0jFLjZ5zVhOnnWo_LVoVWcny64nHA_xy4Sal98_aRxHx-5vBnM8S82O6Ndez4-9GBEjH7seWP4LcO25gT/s1600/blocos3.jpg" height="225" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Make no mistake, Blocos are not unique to Rio. They are
popular in cities all over Brazil. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival_block" target="_blank">Wikipedia cites</a> the Brazilian state of
Pernambuco as the center of Brazil’s Bloco universe, noting that the biggest bloco
“Galo da Madrugada” attracts more than 2 million people in downtown Recife.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmHb9Zd82-L2fi3W1Rk0GHFJBo3x2Zbcsfgsm96C2XPOVLrIupoSAYJx-JqsJA_uPaoQGwXFVIYIcSbwp6kaYrHAFjnKA14n1_BlL59a6vy2EmaeOnl_bs49pVAIMdKPqlTY21UwG6aUq/s1600/blocos8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmHb9Zd82-L2fi3W1Rk0GHFJBo3x2Zbcsfgsm96C2XPOVLrIupoSAYJx-JqsJA_uPaoQGwXFVIYIcSbwp6kaYrHAFjnKA14n1_BlL59a6vy2EmaeOnl_bs49pVAIMdKPqlTY21UwG6aUq/s1600/blocos8.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Some folks have their favorite bloco. Some blocos have a
long, storied history. Some blocos have morphed in character over time, growing
into huge events. Some have outgrown their earlier appeal. More and more are
starting to include chemical toilets (thank you city government rules
enforcement). All of them will have countless street vendors selling beer,
other beverages and lots of food. These parties are walk up events open to all.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkbSUHVl-kYuGf4Cw9RUiQ0XogrUo0T-eAV1prfK5y0ttcMpKq_7QlDTBzcmDijoSGbsgeNlFvXHcTGgVSTKLZ64M6aygGHrR_9wPkptNwOyiVn6pSkWkhl2oJvQNtiEeQKVySaLvPcPH/s1600/blocos4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkbSUHVl-kYuGf4Cw9RUiQ0XogrUo0T-eAV1prfK5y0ttcMpKq_7QlDTBzcmDijoSGbsgeNlFvXHcTGgVSTKLZ64M6aygGHrR_9wPkptNwOyiVn6pSkWkhl2oJvQNtiEeQKVySaLvPcPH/s1600/blocos4.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Going to a bloco is a very low maintenance thing. Just put on
some very comfortable clothes. Be prepared for rain. Take just your house key,
ID and some money. Leave all your unnecessary documents at home. Blocos are by
far and away safe events, but you know how “opportunity creates the thief.”
Pickpockets love crowds. Take your patience with crowds and your spirit of
adventure. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIxgaJ8KybwBqswlce1vUIn7D8w_Mf5uXetC0Jf3rofFIT8Lw93NryRUJVf827w4KRgJq_IBO6eWVydk-6uND4ZD-7GD7BB6cH0AKHIMFEZs5HRLS8VURRkkZt2ws_7XTCayu-iFMHfoaf/s1600/blocos2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIxgaJ8KybwBqswlce1vUIn7D8w_Mf5uXetC0Jf3rofFIT8Lw93NryRUJVf827w4KRgJq_IBO6eWVydk-6uND4ZD-7GD7BB6cH0AKHIMFEZs5HRLS8VURRkkZt2ws_7XTCayu-iFMHfoaf/s1600/blocos2.jpg" height="200" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Go. Catch the vibe. Dance. Smile. Feel the love.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Bom Carnaval.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-54584498013639002362014-01-29T17:32:00.000-02:002014-01-29T19:30:34.006-02:00Pop up dining in Rio?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijN7eEvrxUShqKNNv5jkn7ScScGuGneshMAQChlJCsLzUesoQxpIF0t0zSN9g0Mzh0tnXz7-6_0i_rWrEUJCfxGKq_U5eamCQnBAcfuRa5Q_Yp4tQvByfXYI2-wzdkYoOzyCuFAZN8AOGZ/s1600/pop-up-restaurant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijN7eEvrxUShqKNNv5jkn7ScScGuGneshMAQChlJCsLzUesoQxpIF0t0zSN9g0Mzh0tnXz7-6_0i_rWrEUJCfxGKq_U5eamCQnBAcfuRa5Q_Yp4tQvByfXYI2-wzdkYoOzyCuFAZN8AOGZ/s1600/pop-up-restaurant.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
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Could it be true? Has its time come? Are gourmet food trucks
and an underground restaurant scene soon to blossom in Rio? One can hope. </div>
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Thanks to the ever-sagacious <a href="http://eatrio.net/" target="_blank"><b>Eat Rio blog</b></a> and various Face
Book groups for gringos in Rio and beyond I have stumbled upon two exciting eating
out options off the beaten path. A candle burns in the dining desert for wanna-be
foodies on a budget.</div>
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Restaurant dining in Rio and Niterói (and other places, I
presume) can be both boring and expensive. Admittedly I am at a disadvantage having
spent so many years in the San Francisco Bay Area food scene. Not much gets me
excited in my current local reality, and way too much is priced out of my
reality. <br />
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I do very much enjoy many of the star Brazilian dishes so
popular here and in other regions of the country. When we go out to eat we seek
out those places that do these dishes very well.</div>
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On the international cuisine front, however, choices are
quite limited. Restaurants serving what they present to be Asian, Italian, or “Tex-Mex”
fare have clearly tweaked the flavor profiles to match the local (mildly spicy,
please) palate. Unfortunately for me – who loves a fiery Thai chili paste or an
unforgiving slow burn from a roasted Mexican salsa – spicy international or
fusion food is hard to come by.</div>
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And pizza. I know São Paulo has a famously delicious,
stylish and scrumptious pizzeria scene, but this reality does not extend to
Rio, much less Niterói (with few exceptions). The popular and ubiquitous
all-you-can-eat pizza restaurants serve a kind of pizza that does not inspire
me to go out for pizza much. Alas. <br />
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But there is hope on the scene.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWMGB6yJyKq_FUmUcNZaKKGPxBnpaKgpocPmt93GgEA4USHxILHIkMg4FJfXL6Tc7YTW58JcAkyXkkJ_OqNAdiHxAEpV-elu1VvwNmkrA_yj8MazKCzX_KVodQZxtNtgAhkNS-0Ge03gC/s1600/festa+mexicana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWMGB6yJyKq_FUmUcNZaKKGPxBnpaKgpocPmt93GgEA4USHxILHIkMg4FJfXL6Tc7YTW58JcAkyXkkJ_OqNAdiHxAEpV-elu1VvwNmkrA_yj8MazKCzX_KVodQZxtNtgAhkNS-0Ge03gC/s1600/festa+mexicana.jpg" height="182" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9L3Mzz-sM8O3MKxuhVZEBrUwU-_mGzjTMfBGm9N3HzZXTYlmO3a-ZYTNFzmoYR1n5lXlIrN2xsUQda-eOZHW8qod97XmqSYISGJOsbL3gYk9_oItx2JLl-IqHx1-D8kfOmQkz7EkpOfGK/s1600/P1240218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9L3Mzz-sM8O3MKxuhVZEBrUwU-_mGzjTMfBGm9N3HzZXTYlmO3a-ZYTNFzmoYR1n5lXlIrN2xsUQda-eOZHW8qod97XmqSYISGJOsbL3gYk9_oItx2JLl-IqHx1-D8kfOmQkz7EkpOfGK/s1600/P1240218.JPG" height="268" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luis and Daniel, our hosts, with hard-working server Jennifer</td></tr>
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We recently gathered a group of friends and went to a
once-a-week-only pop-up restaurant serving authentic Mexican food: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/fiestamexbr" target="_blank"><b>Fiesta Mexicana</b></a>. Two young Mexican-American entrepreneurs recently relocated from
California have struck a deal with a Youth Hostel in Rio’s Cantagalo community to
use their rooftop seating area (with a tiny, tiny food prep space) to share
their love of Mexican foods. They serve real, homemade, traditional,
heart-warming Mexican food. Lucky us.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXxY6uSB0wzmNNjfXiGpdE1Es5Lq8c51u3faMs_8nUc3HBxidECuffX83w0au9ysFmKiIMUbPCoR0BRn5Ehpdme0BBXDu707kn51xi7ax-PCbI1hS_nPgV28ziQp-KrObnagabhx99wiqh/s1600/P1240206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXxY6uSB0wzmNNjfXiGpdE1Es5Lq8c51u3faMs_8nUc3HBxidECuffX83w0au9ysFmKiIMUbPCoR0BRn5Ehpdme0BBXDu707kn51xi7ax-PCbI1hS_nPgV28ziQp-KrObnagabhx99wiqh/s1600/P1240206.JPG" height="219" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV4qknvpGvk6PV6SQGM4vGiAIi0rGS8KVRn8eDawBbxdAP0Q2xjvZOO4ulRHjoHO5Q6Z6a0q98Uv00Aq0MUB2tuQAzdqiCUPdprW7RqYEUThErx156bbC8I7kS30vUJSdXsgyRe44cxAbq/s1600/fiesta+mexicana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV4qknvpGvk6PV6SQGM4vGiAIi0rGS8KVRn8eDawBbxdAP0Q2xjvZOO4ulRHjoHO5Q6Z6a0q98Uv00Aq0MUB2tuQAzdqiCUPdprW7RqYEUThErx156bbC8I7kS30vUJSdXsgyRe44cxAbq/s1600/fiesta+mexicana.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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In addition to the world class view of the sea beyond
Ipanema, the smell of carne asada tacos and fresh corn tortillas was completely
hypnotic. We instantly forgave the somewhat cramped and disorganized goings on
when it was made clear that our friends could try their first margarita over a shared
plate of cheesy nachos. And the super spicy salsa verde – OMG – I had died and
gone to Mexican heaven.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYXfJYN-ATQBGT-yYWYjBgbjn6yWg4v4gsW64_dIy7AY5HvgogwSAdyJ66A8uP2h-4mJuipYSZ_1EQCsadHVxUYPoDqUqMi0CuKV0QM6XkPCvyjXdice8mJTp7lVGrAxUA4bS5GNKz1qb/s1600/P1240213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEYXfJYN-ATQBGT-yYWYjBgbjn6yWg4v4gsW64_dIy7AY5HvgogwSAdyJ66A8uP2h-4mJuipYSZ_1EQCsadHVxUYPoDqUqMi0CuKV0QM6XkPCvyjXdice8mJTp7lVGrAxUA4bS5GNKz1qb/s1600/P1240213.JPG" height="320" width="307" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMD_p1p5IwzUndQ9E5XzzpVY35L5zkCA8vhAiYlmBK3FokBJunUxX4QhKNft_Eh5ULGzF84FMI26KxTPmT5F76h_WPQ1FE1jHzz395d31LGJlt6Y0tOG_HXsXL1we6UOkRoF6um0DLTTc/s1600/P1240211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMD_p1p5IwzUndQ9E5XzzpVY35L5zkCA8vhAiYlmBK3FokBJunUxX4QhKNft_Eh5ULGzF84FMI26KxTPmT5F76h_WPQ1FE1jHzz395d31LGJlt6Y0tOG_HXsXL1we6UOkRoF6um0DLTTc/s1600/P1240211.JPG" height="250" width="320" /></a></div>
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Most of our friends were tasting their first plates of
authentic Mexican food. Beef and pork tacos were the dishes of the night. One
of our host’s mother was in town and working up a serious sweat in the summer
heat pumping out fresh corn tortillas. The smell of dinner to come was enough
to get our eyes burning with the promise of roasted jalapeño peppers. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyZR1d-phOhvXYKUuuZgP35l9Vy8woR6Dktg263Q4xoaiSF5wKEfqwvOElwqBnftd4GbA0_fRYQG6EbYuM_GTGGFclt78ffh64KDuqwt6OzqD-GZimkHKGNEVI4DPWAbQNa0uqRR3Gc4D/s1600/P1240212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyZR1d-phOhvXYKUuuZgP35l9Vy8woR6Dktg263Q4xoaiSF5wKEfqwvOElwqBnftd4GbA0_fRYQG6EbYuM_GTGGFclt78ffh64KDuqwt6OzqD-GZimkHKGNEVI4DPWAbQNa0uqRR3Gc4D/s1600/P1240212.JPG" height="320" width="242" /></a></div>
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Just one night a week. You have to search this place out.
You have to want it. The borrowed location is tucked in the hillside favela overlooking
Ipanema. Getting from the public elevator at the General Osório
Metro Station to your dining destination is no easy trick, winding your way
through the labyrinth of narrow stairways that characterizes the community. But
it is worth the effort.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiLPG2-Gc-k9iC24iww-b7OKleJML5pAHErkzKkAq-j9_Ynh4V49Qh9OaMcNYY3mfd5eJk_YdmbqsJCgQ8_icBKSIhy53rtkKV52kCqOAeUwacp0_wytGUaprS0HICeZ2tCMyqdoEHdSc-/s1600/fiesta+mexicana2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiLPG2-Gc-k9iC24iww-b7OKleJML5pAHErkzKkAq-j9_Ynh4V49Qh9OaMcNYY3mfd5eJk_YdmbqsJCgQ8_icBKSIhy53rtkKV52kCqOAeUwacp0_wytGUaprS0HICeZ2tCMyqdoEHdSc-/s1600/fiesta+mexicana2.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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We’re hoping their obvious deserved success and word of
mouth driven growth in popularity will result in a move to more spacious digs
and a few more evenings of dining service each week. Fingers crossed. But until
then, we will definitely go back for more. Fiesta Mexicana is now our favorite
(and only) pop-up restaurant.<br />
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Then there is the question of food trucks.</div>
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Food venders on the street, both casual and <b><i>very</i></b>
casual, are ever-present practically everywhere in Brazil. Whether you are at
the beach, outside a music venue, at the central square in a small village or
just wandering a neighborhood after hours there are invariably folks frying up
hamburgers, cooking a skewer of meat over a grill or heaping hot dogs with every
imaginable diced up accompaniment. But
for the sake of this post I would suggest the term “food truck” is not the
accurate descriptor for these vendors.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGOrLtl_jBfriZPA0VyjTw-FiWOH3ygB-UmrDBkwKAJe09QzVbkeUrlpPBo6NJReLJPRq3z38gEWE5q6tCIa-aGVFvfjMMSIkxfK0NjY-ZGGTYkPTg-YFh22BiWhR0ww7MW0VhCA-7Q6m/s1600/Food-Truck-Wallpaper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGOrLtl_jBfriZPA0VyjTw-FiWOH3ygB-UmrDBkwKAJe09QzVbkeUrlpPBo6NJReLJPRq3z38gEWE5q6tCIa-aGVFvfjMMSIkxfK0NjY-ZGGTYkPTg-YFh22BiWhR0ww7MW0VhCA-7Q6m/s1600/Food-Truck-Wallpaper.jpg" height="179" width="320" /></a></div>
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In my yearnings for food trucks I am imagining a growing
scene of passionate cooks putting out creative, flavorful, quality foods at
affordable prices. That reality, I’m afraid, has yet to hit the streets in my
area, with one notable exception.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqvSpgisq28cNZmHGwVJAOf_pDgeOfrquGYzwKnQjfA0ywDDqktwPkUPFxNzmOfL7STXHKJaB50lRgK6Nu2JDTmdm12VnZEsa4QAkPkcWhvXvRG8yOPUNDrzxxThBY-V-60lvtpHbh5X4/s1600/ferro+e+farinha4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOqvSpgisq28cNZmHGwVJAOf_pDgeOfrquGYzwKnQjfA0ywDDqktwPkUPFxNzmOfL7STXHKJaB50lRgK6Nu2JDTmdm12VnZEsa4QAkPkcWhvXvRG8yOPUNDrzxxThBY-V-60lvtpHbh5X4/s1600/ferro+e+farinha4.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All ferro e farinha images taken from their FB page.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2j8qNtzu4uB17V7PqtbJPlF1JIu4IdbI0b5-gX6fFRMXXmFiuBnz_ZTuY7gpvG2V4jggNehN5_ZGRlDWftjkjFmkY4QoknTfh8LcIHfW5Lyf2bt7saEiubb5ZJSSPXlmXlqqxWmA8yM0/s1600/Ferrol+e+Farinha1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD2j8qNtzu4uB17V7PqtbJPlF1JIu4IdbI0b5-gX6fFRMXXmFiuBnz_ZTuY7gpvG2V4jggNehN5_ZGRlDWftjkjFmkY4QoknTfh8LcIHfW5Lyf2bt7saEiubb5ZJSSPXlmXlqqxWmA8yM0/s1600/Ferrol+e+Farinha1.jpg" height="188" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/FerroEFarinha" target="_blank"><b>Ferro e Farinha</b></a> (Iron and Flour) is a break-out pizza truck
(pizza oven on a trailer, actually) putting out high end, real Italian pizzas –
at affordable prices. I am inspired. To catch up with where they will be on any
given night you have to communicate with them on Face Book. From what I can
tell, if they will be parked at a public event they will post the location. If
they plan a more clandestine pop-up evening of pizza you have to msg them for a
location.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbqztHTCTMxWRrDJ9-cbjLcJoOLc_7o1_kuwbqhaBL-1GRszIuPf73Ougkthu8IgNDy1P_TcpXoLhRepeDrTySnk4nXZ61_K34U3CbZSIeap4wd_BHR8uq-SiY2JP5FcZwZzRSXQkLRvw/s1600/Ferro+e+Farinha2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAbqztHTCTMxWRrDJ9-cbjLcJoOLc_7o1_kuwbqhaBL-1GRszIuPf73Ougkthu8IgNDy1P_TcpXoLhRepeDrTySnk4nXZ61_K34U3CbZSIeap4wd_BHR8uq-SiY2JP5FcZwZzRSXQkLRvw/s1600/Ferro+e+Farinha2.jpg" height="279" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37_6xK2F2sJVLDVg3kZHL-4ABkOAmFOrc08SSOAp3Z3m71Lg9_ZIsA9l_Fj2y-jEbKPyR7Feq3VifVsIRM1Fh7DCNZBoWIUBGCH3Gewuw3ue4w-VGcCNp09EgJGdzdB0QGbcXWWMeG3nb/s1600/Ferro+e+Farinha3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37_6xK2F2sJVLDVg3kZHL-4ABkOAmFOrc08SSOAp3Z3m71Lg9_ZIsA9l_Fj2y-jEbKPyR7Feq3VifVsIRM1Fh7DCNZBoWIUBGCH3Gewuw3ue4w-VGcCNp09EgJGdzdB0QGbcXWWMeG3nb/s1600/Ferro+e+Farinha3.jpg" height="199" width="320" /></a></div>
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Full disclosure: I have yet to enjoy a pizza from Ferro e
Farinha. But I am chomping at the bit to do so. The excitement surrounding this
new street food option has risen to a full roar. I have had the pleasure of
meeting Sei, the NYC Italian pizzeria trained head chef in charge at FeF, and have witnessed his passion for his craft. (Actually, quite by coincidence, I met Sei
at Fiesta Mexicana. Small scene indeed.) Everything I have seen and heard about
this custom-built pizza oven on wheels operation and the pies it puts out has
me (as you can see) promoting their success.</div>
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Rio diners deserve quality food at affordable prices. The
Rio arts and music scene is WAY TOO happening for there NOT to be a flourishing
fleet of hip food trucks. Dining out should not remain a class privilege in
Rio. It is time to democratize great food. (Can you see me thrusting my fist
over my head?) You can follow an effort to legalize Food Trucks in Rio at the
Face Book page <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RioFoodTruck" target="_blank"><b>Food Truck Rio</b></a>.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikEl6SxoNKGUXXlrtCa74DbeRpl1GhkcHJrS4uvAIRokIUxlxnhXM4uCEe0Fd1XGTCNSr5-wTE4OvJMst9ldDootztyHtsu3mEqdsR043OSOoe3gMFrHSF8YTvLVQzZIEOUTL4-B-z_qL7/s1600/Food+Truck+Rio+image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikEl6SxoNKGUXXlrtCa74DbeRpl1GhkcHJrS4uvAIRokIUxlxnhXM4uCEe0Fd1XGTCNSr5-wTE4OvJMst9ldDootztyHtsu3mEqdsR043OSOoe3gMFrHSF8YTvLVQzZIEOUTL4-B-z_qL7/s1600/Food+Truck+Rio+image.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The SP food truck folks behind the effort to legalize trucks in Rio.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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If you have a bead on other great food options in Rio like
these I have described, please let us know about them in the comments. I am on
a mission to ferret out and support these efforts.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-14213322388875486092014-01-20T15:48:00.002-02:002014-01-20T22:50:11.076-02:002014 Rio Carnaval tickets<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFsxOIDYQEJDg17IH-6xHbLWIMgbe6WNa6q4VhucdXJyEYcOnHtFWCRHxSln8xYL3v-PueAUWpxfv6eRLMUljK7OlCz2y_wzD1fYYEw2l84vGmH_dsxK_mRadsR9y-UsWyG0qFPD6j90I/s1600/P1200199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFsxOIDYQEJDg17IH-6xHbLWIMgbe6WNa6q4VhucdXJyEYcOnHtFWCRHxSln8xYL3v-PueAUWpxfv6eRLMUljK7OlCz2y_wzD1fYYEw2l84vGmH_dsxK_mRadsR9y-UsWyG0qFPD6j90I/s1600/P1200199.JPG" height="247" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunday and Monday tickets. Tab at the bottom gets you in. Tab in the middle gets you into your Sector. The big badge you wear all night to get in and out of your sector.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Every year Luiz and I sit alert at our phones (and computer)
to blast into the mad rush phone feeding frenzy that is the sale of Carnaval
tickets in Rio. The tickets are made available at 9:00 a.m. on a set date via a
series of telephone numbers. Depending on which Sector you are seeking tickets
for, you dial that number and hope to get patched through to the business-like
computer voice prompter to buy tickets. This year we got lucky and have some
extras. More about that at the bottom of the post.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Prior to the sale date we coordinate with our friends to see
where everyone wishes to sit and we all gear up to buy as many tickets as we
can in that Sector. If one of us does not get through the hope is that someone
else will and we can then buy them from each other. Ultimately we are working
as a group to ensure our group can all see at least one night of the Carnaval
Parade.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMLO6OqjOIZSc4-8znEEI3_UHIVhIui4BvOIrXkb4FBvOJ3lYvOF6hnFCW-asqBegOKHjXUDCvJFxXNMSqetyqQpd646RDjhx750caddvFJNY4xqWxFht4YwN3zGeujkd7z1-_0Cl-yMI/s1600/rio+carnaval+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHMLO6OqjOIZSc4-8znEEI3_UHIVhIui4BvOIrXkb4FBvOJ3lYvOF6hnFCW-asqBegOKHjXUDCvJFxXNMSqetyqQpd646RDjhx750caddvFJNY4xqWxFht4YwN3zGeujkd7z1-_0Cl-yMI/s1600/rio+carnaval+3.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The big parade/competition takes place over two days: Sunday
and Monday of Carnaval weekend. The neighborhood Schools of Samba are randomly
assigned to parade at a particular time on either day. Which night is the best
night to go is often a topic of great debate. Everyone has their favorite
School(s) so if favorites among friends are split between two nights we have a
debate on our hands regarding which night we should be trying to get tickets
for. Some years the choice is obvious and clear. Other years some folks will
follow the group on one night, but then spend the extra bank to see their
personal favorite School on the other night.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6MMFpHpCDJI9n0w_iDnYb4LXB204W-c3eSFNzXtFCHBQIqR7WTqGWsPSejiFRFqCht5WNBEYdz3CepWzlN2q3GgS_hcmmoFPjJeBlLLoae9iKpqm8aojvjWUEt4E1xb8Fb9ozmkTkyzh/s1600/sambodromo_mapa_2012.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6MMFpHpCDJI9n0w_iDnYb4LXB204W-c3eSFNzXtFCHBQIqR7WTqGWsPSejiFRFqCht5WNBEYdz3CepWzlN2q3GgS_hcmmoFPjJeBlLLoae9iKpqm8aojvjWUEt4E1xb8Fb9ozmkTkyzh/s1600/sambodromo_mapa_2012.gif" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Which Sector to sit in is a discussion that has been settled
for many years. Among our group of friends the decision is largely a financial
one. Carnaval tickets are expensive, even when buying them directly from LIESA,
<a href="http://liesa.globo.com/" target="_blank">the Central League of Independent Schools of Samba</a>, the official ticket vendor.
The so-called “best” Sectors are generally seen to be Sectors 6, 7, 8 and 9. They
are good because they are located far enough back from the beginning of the
parade route that you can get a visual overview of nearly the entire School.
The numerous sections of the parading School tell a visual narrative that
corresponds to the music. Seen all together you get the best impact. Prices in
these Sectors are way too steep for our crowd, especially for just one night
out.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju7duB5J1GhPLAcfi_qxqqThfBDAjc6Idt8BbFxsuiFW_0ohEh2jL8YQYVZXbUofqk9vMrSQI_z272VEH6uc24oUhHZ8KcWIUgqSXwX_1sjO-NiZlGcRAMr4C4PSgWdlriwFPPDgd7k3Jr/s1600/rio+carnaval+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju7duB5J1GhPLAcfi_qxqqThfBDAjc6Idt8BbFxsuiFW_0ohEh2jL8YQYVZXbUofqk9vMrSQI_z272VEH6uc24oUhHZ8KcWIUgqSXwX_1sjO-NiZlGcRAMr4C4PSgWdlriwFPPDgd7k3Jr/s1600/rio+carnaval+4.jpg" height="219" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sectors 4, 5, 10, and 11 are also good choices, if you have
the cash. While not the ideal locations they still provide that long(ish) view
you are looking for.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Us regular folks who go almost every year (some of whom have
gone dozens of times over the years) look for a good value combining price and
location. Since this is neither the first nor the last time in the Sambadromo
we know the drill and are quite happy with Sectors 2 or 3. They are near to the
front so the energy of the School is very high and the precision of their choreography
is still on point and not frayed with fatigue. Sectors 12 and 13 can offer
cheaper seats, but the Schools at that point (the end of the route) are often
disorganized and sometimes running frantically toward the finish line to stay
within the rigid time frame allowed and not receive a penalty for going over.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnOkj-uEXt4gkSH2AtUa1TmRgLuxAgPSKzKmf0vc-TrDolTcpLLpNgOpVQGb1DhpNBxb-m2GZECSL3vY9plhmk13_KJlhGhXpxQyF8MTXGo3iOqiWJr2ZuSUv6gbSzz4xMESUMhM2H8Jk/s1600/rio+carnaval+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnOkj-uEXt4gkSH2AtUa1TmRgLuxAgPSKzKmf0vc-TrDolTcpLLpNgOpVQGb1DhpNBxb-m2GZECSL3vY9plhmk13_KJlhGhXpxQyF8MTXGo3iOqiWJr2ZuSUv6gbSzz4xMESUMhM2H8Jk/s1600/rio+carnaval+5.jpg" height="200" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The night of the event we arrive early and claim a large
area for our group at the down-route side of the Sector. You quickly learn that
you have to stake a big claim on space at the onset because slowly but surely that
shrinks in the face of a growing crowd of spectators worming their way into
fractions of space throughout the seating area. It is inevitable. But we have
some practiced skills at maintaining our spot throughout the night.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It’s always a great night. As a group we bring with us
plenty of food and drink to last the long 9 hours or so of the show. Everyone
knows all the songs and have years of stories to correspond to every School.
The friendly competition insisting which School has been best over the years,
insider scandalous gossip regarding the current Carnavelescos (the creative director,
like the futebol coach), and assertions of confidence as to who will surely be
named Champion this year make the many hours pass quickly. And the show itself
NEVER disappoints!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjmMpaHFFPk2AAxAVjFrqoLrEwQfMhnhTxSf_IjIgDF5IB_Auu1-SNX0bXgVfpncDMsUhtAXn5zA3Y2HDESEtc5L7KFUEXARCrPW0Whr5nOJt6bdUcV9NQZetG94pDZ_HLYqDiYz5FmVC/s1600/rio+carnaval+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicjmMpaHFFPk2AAxAVjFrqoLrEwQfMhnhTxSf_IjIgDF5IB_Auu1-SNX0bXgVfpncDMsUhtAXn5zA3Y2HDESEtc5L7KFUEXARCrPW0Whr5nOJt6bdUcV9NQZetG94pDZ_HLYqDiYz5FmVC/s1600/rio+carnaval+2.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sound good? Well, like I said. We have some extra tickets
available for both Saturday and Sunday nights. Send me an email if you want
more information.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bom Carnaval!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-4609663659855175382014-01-03T15:14:00.000-02:002014-01-03T18:29:31.542-02:00Cheesecake in Brazil!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkWPWlB6oQUdiEVA0V6hgY3NshaQAI3ljiia52gC3RMPYBy0Eo9E7kqnPKl6p0Q9EkUW8v8Z51VTfDcHQgryPlfTmCqUYfJlVFSL-Cal2-ppNl77OWw3qRbvWJwtmfHD59oUyleKZjc7Ua/s1600/20131224_173502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkWPWlB6oQUdiEVA0V6hgY3NshaQAI3ljiia52gC3RMPYBy0Eo9E7kqnPKl6p0Q9EkUW8v8Z51VTfDcHQgryPlfTmCqUYfJlVFSL-Cal2-ppNl77OWw3qRbvWJwtmfHD59oUyleKZjc7Ua/s320/20131224_173502.jpg" width="314" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Not too many people in my circle of friends here in Brazil
are regular cheesecake eaters (but they love it when I bring it to parties). It
does not seem to be a very common dessert in restaurants or at family events. I
can’t recall seeing more than a few over the years at our local sweet shops.
They are out there, but just not a common thing. (I’m sure some urban areas –
you know who you are - have wonderful cheesecake spots, but across the country
this is not a ‘thing.’) Some folks will not know what you mean when you say “torta
de queijo,” try “torta de queijo <i>Philadelphia</i>.”</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In my experience, the cheesecakes I have eaten here have
been a bit too wet and dense in texture and have been topped with a sticky,
gelatinous, overly sweet fruit topping. Still, they can taste great, if you
like that sort of thing.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Forgive me if I prefer my own version of cheesecake. I have
been using this recipe for years and my friends plead with me to make it for big
parties. At this point I do not know where I got the recipe and I am sure it
has drifted in details from the original version. But it still works for me,
even after moving to Brazil and having to use local versions of ingredients that
are commonly found in the USA.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One big division among cheesecake makers/eaters is whether
or not the crust should cover only the bottom of the cake or if it should climb
up the sides of the pan and form a tall, wraparound crust for the entire cake. It
is a personal preference. When done right, I prefer the tall, wraparound
version. I like the texture and the subtle additional flavor accent it can
provide. But it must be thin. A clunky, thick, often soggy cookie crumb
nastiness encasing your fluffy cheesecake will take away the buzz. Practice
makes perfect, but it must be thin. Strive for as thin as possible. (It’s not
easy, but the practice can be delicious all the same.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So here is my version of cheesecake. It makes a full-on tall
cake in a 10” spring form pan, serving 12 people or more. The cheesecake itself
is not flavored with fruit or whatever else, but I include a sweet topping
recipe that can be tricked out with your favorite fruit.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ingredients:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
¾ cup coarsely ground walnuts<br />
1 teaspoon cinnamon<br />
2 cups granulated sugar, divided<br />
2 cups finely crumbled vanilla wafers (in Brazil I use a good banana cinnamon
biscuit cookie)<br />
6 tablespoons melted butter<br />
4 pkgs (8 oz.) cream cheese (in Brazil the packages are a bit smaller, so buy 5
pkgs to measure about 910 gms) <br />
5 good size large or jumbo eggs (get the fresh ones, but no need to get the
super huge jumbo ones)<br />
1 tablespoon +1 teaspoon lemon juice (in Brazil use limão Siciliano)<br />
2 teaspoons vanilla extract</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Procedure:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lightly butter a 10” spring form pan. Preheat your oven to
350° F (180° C).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Place the cookies in a strong plastic bag and pound them
into coarse crumbs. Then place those crumbs along with the walnuts, cinnamon
and ½ cup of sugar into a food processor and pulse them into a fine mixture. Transfer
to a bowl and pour in the melted butter. Mix well. It should be moist, not
super wet or powdery dry. Press the
cookie crumb mixture into the pan pressing out from the center and up the sides
of the pan. Use a flat bottom and right angle measuring cup or drinking glass
to help get a thin flat layer. Be sure to press firmly into the corner between
the bottom and side to avoid a thick crust elbow. Then place the formed crust
into the oven for about 4 - 5 minutes to toast and set it but do not over toast
it. Remove from oven and set aside. Leave the oven on.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
For the filling, beat the cream cheese until smooth; really
smooth. In the States this will take a while, as the cream cheese is quite
firm. Having a Kitchen Aid mixer is the bomb in this situation. Here in Brazil
I have found the cream cheese to be rather soft in texture, so the creaming
process is not all that challenging. But don’t be shy. Get that stuff smooth
and light. Slowly add the remaining 1 ½ cups of sugar and cream until you can
no longer feel grains of sugar when you rub some of the batter between your
fingers. Then add the eggs, one at a time, combining thoroughly between each egg.
Add the lemon juice and the vanilla extract. Scrape the beater(s) and the sides
of the mixing bowl to get everything back into the mix. Beat well until
perfect.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pour the filling mixture into the prepared crust and place
in the oven. I place a sheet pan under the spring form (directly if necessary
or a shelf down, whatever your options are) to catch any dripping moisture from
the cake while it bakes. Bake for at least one hour, until the top is mostly
firm and golden in color. This is the tricky part. Baking should be slow and
you should stop just shy of a completely firm cake. Test doneness by tapping
the edge of the pan to see if the cake mixture is still liquid and jiggly. You
want it mostly firm while still a tiny bit jiggly in the middle. Try not to over
bake the cheesecake. Baking it in a too hot oven will dry it out and the
surface may crack. My oven here in Brazil is VERY weird and I can never get the
temperature right, even with a thermometer – for some reason. The last time I
made this cake (quite successfully) I baked it for a full two hours.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Vyr-TzyBkn3eJYROHJnfqbYyOxus_J_9UgNL5tBi5KESZUXPbGMPTO0oX-TgKWO7ZmGmZKaTnNOReecp7pHlUsS3__B3HD1AVbNYL-BmzvxtFpKieAe-9W-naY7C1L1bK-QhIf4XmhQ7/s1600/20131224_125543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Vyr-TzyBkn3eJYROHJnfqbYyOxus_J_9UgNL5tBi5KESZUXPbGMPTO0oX-TgKWO7ZmGmZKaTnNOReecp7pHlUsS3__B3HD1AVbNYL-BmzvxtFpKieAe-9W-naY7C1L1bK-QhIf4XmhQ7/s320/20131224_125543.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I think the super soft nature of the cream cheese here makes
the batter rather thin looking and wet. Fear not. Slow baking and patience will
result in a beautiful light texture that is fully cooked. In fact, I have never
gotten a dry cheesecake result here, perhaps due to the difference in the
ingredients.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When you think the cake is done, turn off the oven and let
it cool down in the closed oven, about 20 – 30 minutes. Remove the cheesecake
from the pan and set on the counter to cool completely to room temperature. It
should be beautiful! (If you are taking it to a party, feel free to leave it in
the pan for transport.)</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Strawberry topping<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This recipe works great to create a clear, shiny glaze that
can be brushed over strawberries arranged on the top of your cheesecake.
Unfortunately, I cannot find the proper ingredients here in Brazil so my
modified version works better as a sweet thick sauce that can be poured over a
slice before serving. In any case – it is delicious without being ridiculously
sweet.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Ingredients:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 – 3 quarts beautiful, fresh, ripe strawberries, stems
removed (leave whole or slice, your preference)<br />
One 12 oz. jar of seedless raspberry jam. Here I have never seen this, so I
have substituted something referred to as “doce cremoso de morango tipo
Schmier.” Ritter brand sells a 400 g little tub of the stuff. It is like
strawberry jam without the chunks of fruit; it is not clear.<br />
1 tablespoon corn starch<br />
¼ cup cold water<br />
½ c. Triple Sec<br />
1 tablespoon lemon juice</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Procedure:<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When using the original ingredients, place the jam in a
saucepan on low heat. Combine corn starch with the cold water in a small cup
and stir until lumps-free. Mix it into the heating jam. Stir well. Add Triple
Sec and lemon juice, stirring constantly over low heat until mixture is clear
and thickened. Cool in the refrigerator for about 15 minutes stirring
frequently to prevent a film from forming on the surface.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Arrange the strawberries on the top of the cheesecake
(beautiful tall whole berries side by side or a spiral layering of sliced
berries). Carefully brush the clear glaze over all the berries and bits of
exposed cheesecake. Chill completely before serving.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiszZLb4J8-2mmHsA8SM4wNOhH90QU2z1e67HCZTDqRRPwDZihwuMEqrmXyBKuaYGaTkkGfneklwJYX5BCVjo4zE8ienMvThvldK5nsKY4KRWky6jxq8QjlJuPHrL-1_xxHijwP3xoabSCb/s1600/20131224_195910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiszZLb4J8-2mmHsA8SM4wNOhH90QU2z1e67HCZTDqRRPwDZihwuMEqrmXyBKuaYGaTkkGfneklwJYX5BCVjo4zE8ienMvThvldK5nsKY4KRWky6jxq8QjlJuPHrL-1_xxHijwP3xoabSCb/s320/20131224_195910.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
If you are making the local version, think rustic yummy
strawberry sauce. I omitted the Triple Sec (but you can leave it in) and just
used water, a bit less than suggested. Otherwise I followed the procedure above.
The final result is a thick, yet quite pour-able, topping. It is not clear. Do
not brush it over the strawberries because its cloudy nature will result in a
muddy finish. Pour the topping over a slice once it has been plated.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There you have it. It works for me! Cheesecake has a
reputation for being difficult to perfect and many people have careful
procedures they have found to help them create a true party-stopping dessert.
If you have any tips, of any sort, please include them in the comments section.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Enjoy!</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-6322404083803607672013-12-08T20:10:00.002-02:002013-12-22T06:48:54.502-02:00Visiting Salvador, Bahia – simply amazing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3LsHZwAuVNZlSFq7YXlN39zCauIoCDPTh0gtRvJxPU0VfiwcdZV6_jeX5Zs8jlBs6bKNwO6sNsYzlCxQB5BAk3uCMlI2PWyOQ17eMegBGRyytS8OMCI5D7bJc-UdZJKyTuUKNZr-JMgnY/s1600/salvador10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3LsHZwAuVNZlSFq7YXlN39zCauIoCDPTh0gtRvJxPU0VfiwcdZV6_jeX5Zs8jlBs6bKNwO6sNsYzlCxQB5BAk3uCMlI2PWyOQ17eMegBGRyytS8OMCI5D7bJc-UdZJKyTuUKNZr-JMgnY/s320/salvador10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Trying to write briefly about Salvador, the city that is in many ways Brazil’s
cultural beating heart, is a bit like trying to introduce someone to Paris, or
Istanbul or New Orleans. There is no short story about this place. Or better,
the real story is a long story. Everything else is a simple glimpse, a narrow
impression. A beautiful amazing glimpse, but by its nature limited in scope.
Still, it’s all good. Here are a few impressions from our most recent visit.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing bamboo cathedral lining the road to and from the airport.</td></tr>
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Salvador has some serious history. The place oozes with it.
The indigenous folks had been living in the area for goddess knows how long
when the Portuguese stumbled upon them in 1501. Those first few encounters
didn’t go very well for the Portuguese colonialists resulting in a couple of
the early ones being eaten by the locals. Over time the natives (wrongly, as it
turned out) warmed to the newcomers and eventually tried coexistence.</div>
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As most all of these historical tales go, the demands of the
Portuguese crown pushed for the establishment of its own territory, Brazil, and
then its first colonial capital city, Salvador, established in 1549. The Catholic Church was down with that whole
taking of territory thing as long as the Portuguese converted the natives to
Christianity (adding that it was OK by the Church to enslave those native
peoples who refused to be converted, and later, those of the tribe that had
eaten Brazil’s first Bishop). And so a nation was born. (To read a more complete, still brief, but well compiled historical account, from which I have
drawn these observations, go <a href="http://www.salvadorcentral.com/history-bahia.htm" target="_blank">here</a>.)</div>
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It is the history of Brazil’s African slave trade that cast
the die of Salvador and as a visitor today you see it and feel it (and smell it
and taste it) every minute you are there. The vibe is in some ways both ultimately
triumphal as well as suffocating in its heaviness.</div>
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Salvador served as Brazil’s main port of entry for human
slave labor, receiving nearly 1.3 million people. This one city in Brazil
trafficked in more enslaved Africans than all of the United States. <a href="http://www.theroot.com/articles/history/2012/10/how_many_slaves_came_to_america_fact_vs_fiction.html" target="_blank">According to noted historian Henry Louis Gates Jr</a>., the United States incorporated approximately 450,000 African slaves over the
course of the slave trade while Brazil brought in more than 10 times that
number at 4.86 million. And again, Salvador was the main port of entry. I
encourage you to Google for hours and gather a rich record of this dark period
in Brazil’s history and its impact lasting through to the present.</div>
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Luiz and I had been to Salvador some 11 years earlier.
During that first visit we took care to explore many museums, churches,
historical monuments and various neighborhoods. There is so much to take in to
truly get some perspective on where you are standing. A decent visit takes a
good week or longer just to dig in a little. This time around we were keen to divide our
time between just two locations: the Barra district, specifically Porto da Barra, and the central
historic Pelourinho district. Our plan was to sit on the beach and relax, with
a little sightseeing thrown in.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from our bedroom - for just R$70 a night!</td></tr>
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Our friends Carlinhos and Du lived in Barra for several
years a while back and gave us a personal referral to a friend of theirs who
rents efficiency suites right on Farol de Barra beach (well, across the street
from the beach). Lucky us! We had the PERFECT location. Our bedroom (plus a
kitchen and bath) was on the second floor of a 1920s building with a view of
the water. We literally felt like we were on the beach when sitting up in our
bed. And to make it all better than perfect the rate was 50% less than even the
cheapest near comparable room in the neighborhood. Brazil – it’s all about the personal
connections.</div>
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The tiny beach in Barra gets its name from the adjacent
lighthouse (farol). As beaches in Brazil go this one is quite small. But for
urban dwellers and tourists alike it is a welcome respite from the otherwise
crowded and cacophonous surroundings. Located at the tip of the peninsula that
is Salvador and as such at the mouth of the bay which defines the region, the
beach has a long history. The Porto Farol neighborhood is rich in historic architecture
and includes several museums, forts and churches of interest. </div>
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There is as well a terrific arts institute with a gallery
and gift shop filled with typical local artworks of superior quality at damn
good prices. Visiting Instituto de Artesanato Visconde de Mauá is a MUST, if
you are into that sort of thing. Forget about the mass produced touristy stuff
for sale at the typically pointed out Mercado Modelo in Centro. Check out <a href="http://www.maua.ba.gov.br/" target="_blank">the Instituto’s website</a> for more details and photos of the artwork
available.</div>
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For the most part while in our snug historic neighborhood
we stuck to the beach. On any sunny day this popular beach is cheek to jowl
with chairs and umbrellas. Local folks fiercely work this patch of sand. Any number of guys will rent you some chairs and an umbrella, then keep you in beverages.
Itinerant food vendors wander through the crowd with everything from empadinhas
to frozen fruit pops to charred cheese or shrimp on a stick to roasted nuts. We
ate an amazing plate of the local favorite: <a href="http://flavorsofbrazil.blogspot.com.br/2010/01/recipe-acaraje.html" target="_blank">acarajé</a>. It was served up fresh and for only R$5. I got the non-fried alternative <a href="http://flavorsofbrazil.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/on-road-salvador-pt-2-joy-of-abara.html" target="_blank">abará</a>. Don’t get me wrong, I love the smell and taste of dendê oil, which is central
to the preparation of acarajé, but this boy has got to watch his calories. Luiz
shared a taste of his so I could avoid total blasphemy.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;">acarajé</span></td></tr>
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If you need more sunscreen, a hat, a new bikini, another
conga, a foot massage, or whatever else –
there are folks to help you out with that. Have small kids? Need an inflatable
splash pool for the babies? There was a guy renting those as well (inflated and
filled to your satisfaction). And of course there was the colorful caipirinha
bartender shaking them up bem gelada pra você.</div>
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Then periodically, just to remind you how nice he is and that
he can get you a fresh cold beer or soda, the chair/umbrella guy comes by carrying
a big garden watering can and cools down your feet with some sea water.
Qualidade de vida, baby.</div>
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Over in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Historic_Centre_(Salvador,_Bahia)" target="_blank">Pelorinho</a> district things have changed since the
last time we were in Salvador. In fact they have changed rather dramatically
and for the better. </div>
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While I was blown away by how amazing Salvador is the first time
I went there, I did pull back in the face of what seemed to be a constant
barrage of pestering people on the streets seeking spare change or trying to
get me to buy some whateveritwas item from their outstretched hand. As a tourist
and additionally because I am a gringo I was targeted by locals to fork over
some “extra” money in some way or another. It was annoying and exhausting and
it extended beyond the boundaries of the Pelorinho tourist district. After dark
when the streets were less populated it went so far as to feel unsafe. On this
trip this situation was significantly different. We were practically never
approached on the streets.</div>
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Structurally speaking the whole Pelorinho area has clearly
been on the receiving end of development assistance to turn a slummed-out,
abandoned, decaying district into a restored, revitalized and repopulated
now-vibrant and safe(r) cultural district that serves both tourists and the
local community. The change was like night and day. Pelourinho is back! Now
there are museums, cultural centers, nonprofit organizations, restaurants and
clubs, pousadas and hostels and shops, shops, shops. And a constant police presence
to discourage petty crime on the street.</div>
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I have no clear idea how this happened aside from an obvious
commitment from the city/state/federal governments to restore a cultural jewel
(and <a href="http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/309" target="_blank">designated UNESCO site</a>). It is my hope that there has been some level of
local input, shared opportunity and mutual reward for all stakeholders. But
then, you know how that goes… Whatever
the case, the place is now a very desirable historic center that provides rich
cultural experiences to both tourists and residents alike. There is a reason
that every tourist should spend some time there while visiting Salvador.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-F2FVU_GsX3pKdiub5vPNJQWymIIlUAlV7I3pUzlBYU3XzwareQwEHnuKL5sHTsVYf43jkWt6UNV_jQk_HXauJv_PCIkrytt25uKLxIJFPxmhxM17UY_Ipc7M8UgUPFG7h9GVBVAP4Jo/s1600/salvador4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-F2FVU_GsX3pKdiub5vPNJQWymIIlUAlV7I3pUzlBYU3XzwareQwEHnuKL5sHTsVYf43jkWt6UNV_jQk_HXauJv_PCIkrytt25uKLxIJFPxmhxM17UY_Ipc7M8UgUPFG7h9GVBVAP4Jo/s320/salvador4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaFrwsc5gIrVaqH8PzHSUz2dV-RTIQvBnFaS78kmq3LpzbaRc88GYF7Pm2mUdBox9fnKPL211Hw9qAny4vPzlGJukQktyxrln5YFsfyhpDAd6mVtwzyG4dnBXJLCovrb-4maaHl0guQSB/s1600/PB140027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuaFrwsc5gIrVaqH8PzHSUz2dV-RTIQvBnFaS78kmq3LpzbaRc88GYF7Pm2mUdBox9fnKPL211Hw9qAny4vPzlGJukQktyxrln5YFsfyhpDAd6mVtwzyG4dnBXJLCovrb-4maaHl0guQSB/s320/PB140027.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Luiz and I wandered the narrow streets, enjoyed a couple delicious
lunchtime meals, did some shopping for stylish summer wear and of course popped
in to <a href="http://www.mercadomodelobahia.com.br/" target="_blank">Mercado Modelo</a> (mostly for a moqueca lunch with a view) at the base of
the elevator that shuttles residents from lower to upper Salvador and vice
versa.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFYNCpZ81dlRNE0stQ4pK3NR7Bt1PVC9dLur6JppeeS0RANPuIKPRIoK-HWPpr3tSKwwu4aJG39iK_MYYGjBExl9jQhv1mC3fbAcBuswRKOfbJ02DOGE7y-_gijJZB97VY8hfuiH5C-1N/s1600/PB140019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieFYNCpZ81dlRNE0stQ4pK3NR7Bt1PVC9dLur6JppeeS0RANPuIKPRIoK-HWPpr3tSKwwu4aJG39iK_MYYGjBExl9jQhv1mC3fbAcBuswRKOfbJ02DOGE7y-_gijJZB97VY8hfuiH5C-1N/s320/PB140019.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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So in summary (ha – even a simple glimpse of Salvador turns
into a bit of a long story…), we loved visiting Salvador a second time and we
look forward to our next visit. I, for one, cannot get enough of the rich
African-Brazilian cultural vibe that permeates everything with pride and
bravado.</div>
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There is so much to experience in Salvador it certainly
takes multiple visits to take it all in. One (English language) website I found
that offers a tremendously thorough look at Salvador, its neighborhoods, music,
religions, architecture, history, activities – everything – is <a href="http://www.salvadorcentral.com/index.htm" target="_blank">here</a>. Don’t be
put off by the smattering of self-promoting links to apartment rentals. A
gringo’s got to make some money somehow.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-82375695244914350362013-11-25T19:06:00.003-02:002013-12-15T15:17:56.843-02:00Ecotourism in Chapada Diamantina National Park<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDIQMAp1wAaKkNBXZEMPTvIy2XQBwI9IAm0PtaVWPZUyl4aIKruOTJAC2-MJ7TM63gX5-wfBqON5CpLxrz0kREYATX7imLXzO3gmCwcq_AnTe2En_Pk9Qg7W_tQFrCzctei0530HTR7S9T/s1600/PB160191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDIQMAp1wAaKkNBXZEMPTvIy2XQBwI9IAm0PtaVWPZUyl4aIKruOTJAC2-MJ7TM63gX5-wfBqON5CpLxrz0kREYATX7imLXzO3gmCwcq_AnTe2En_Pk9Qg7W_tQFrCzctei0530HTR7S9T/s320/PB160191.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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There are <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_national_parks_of_Brazil" target="_blank">67 national parks in Brazil</a>. Luiz and I have been
to just 7 of them.</div>
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The smallest (and most visited) park at about 39 square
kilometers (km²) is Tijuca National Park, located entirely within the city
borders of Rio de Janeiro. Residents of and visitors to Rio: don’t listen to
the scary stories about robberies people banter about to discourage you. It is
a great place to hike and it is right in our back yard. </div>
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The largest (and currently not open to the public) is <span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Tumucumaque National Park in the Amazon, coming in at nearly 40,000 </span>km²
<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">(larger than Belgium). This park covers a huge area of interest to nature lovers. It is supposed to be a
testing ground for how to allow the public to visit a sensitive natural area
for tremendous enjoyment without tremendous destruction. Scientists and
naturalists have been tasked with creating a model plan in this regard. So far
I can find no info about a pending grand opening.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-9ARvxK32CSMWa0n1t8jzkAJysi4Ullkt87NqPQDr3j2IHWQJMsCY3T6aUhOaHX3c-6L_REuJ-qUa1zWvcsao83M_opmtU4hfPX-x12UFEPnKNHm-mzg2pJ3gF0kzRkeGZDpz8XL7xdL/s1600/Chapada11ro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-9ARvxK32CSMWa0n1t8jzkAJysi4Ullkt87NqPQDr3j2IHWQJMsCY3T6aUhOaHX3c-6L_REuJ-qUa1zWvcsao83M_opmtU4hfPX-x12UFEPnKNHm-mzg2pJ3gF0kzRkeGZDpz8XL7xdL/s320/Chapada11ro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapada_Diamantina_National_Park" target="_blank">Chapada Diamantina National Park</a>,
where we just visited, is </span>located in Bahia state in the northeast of
Brazil and is among the somewhat larger parks at 1,500 km². The park, created
in the 1980s in response to the ever-expanding demand for ecotourism, is named
for the steep cliffs that fall off from elevated plateaus throughout the region
as well as for the wealth of diamonds discovered in the area during the mid
1800s.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuiPDYomJSutfq7A6ShkllXjNAoZvc7nEJRJ2trFvXR6Mqb4jzg7XgT-al_JrnZU9mvXlHm8HC_O0g7JSsq0wSdptROsot8wSQB7biGHl-MPQNPTrVORt3UUbZN9_qm2lfsTZ-E2SCFmY/s1600/Chapada12ro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGuiPDYomJSutfq7A6ShkllXjNAoZvc7nEJRJ2trFvXR6Mqb4jzg7XgT-al_JrnZU9mvXlHm8HC_O0g7JSsq0wSdptROsot8wSQB7biGHl-MPQNPTrVORt3UUbZN9_qm2lfsTZ-E2SCFmY/s320/Chapada12ro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAwbjNK-_EVqo-nrwQbG3SrIymMPdekHZja2Wc4RjeR02u98dPWAJQ_gGkqiwVhwfz_OxMhLOVEKSyt-5aIZHBRZBRE4bUTCvDPa2Nf7ET13U-KPsKWBNfjjZIJdOtciYqTIBlWY2fhxD/s1600/Chapada13ro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAwbjNK-_EVqo-nrwQbG3SrIymMPdekHZja2Wc4RjeR02u98dPWAJQ_gGkqiwVhwfz_OxMhLOVEKSyt-5aIZHBRZBRE4bUTCvDPa2Nf7ET13U-KPsKWBNfjjZIJdOtciYqTIBlWY2fhxD/s320/Chapada13ro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1ZR5KPq0RbZzLiZirfp3CEUuVPFDVLeQ3zqN62XWZkqTKCIl5IZl0T5MTkuhx559NMXVQWzx7zZVzvZm7l3zGrfXWtv0RTsxd057c1oOD7m6dAZeQFZHmgbY7gh8S8cj0qucB_7CPtXB/s1600/Chapada14ro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1ZR5KPq0RbZzLiZirfp3CEUuVPFDVLeQ3zqN62XWZkqTKCIl5IZl0T5MTkuhx559NMXVQWzx7zZVzvZm7l3zGrfXWtv0RTsxd057c1oOD7m6dAZeQFZHmgbY7gh8S8cj0qucB_7CPtXB/s320/Chapada14ro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The place is gorgeous as well as diverse. There are rivers
and waterfalls, mountains, canyons and plateaus, as well as numerous cave
systems. The relatively mild temperatures as well as its long dry season make
it a perfect place to go for a hike most of the year.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-fzJT5z_fpoZkd_Lnoqp-75CafDd0dyrxHhLd0k7Pn8atMKy4_M3mEsTVT9dvQAmcQ3SymhSCwWnMeF0DLcFLFjMatXIhI3afEYAzeDydnl1HklZiHm8gtQ5aQqkv7i2_6_rKkm8sGeD/s1600/Chapada5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-fzJT5z_fpoZkd_Lnoqp-75CafDd0dyrxHhLd0k7Pn8atMKy4_M3mEsTVT9dvQAmcQ3SymhSCwWnMeF0DLcFLFjMatXIhI3afEYAzeDydnl1HklZiHm8gtQ5aQqkv7i2_6_rKkm8sGeD/s320/Chapada5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We traveled with our friends at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RJAdventure" target="_blank">RJ Adventura</a>. Junior,
Margarida and Christiane head up a passionate, friendly and professional
ecotourism agency that we trust. On this occasion they were leading two
versions of a visit to Capada Diamantina. Half of our group would be heading
off into the mountains and onto the plateaus while the other half would stick
to the more easily accessed rivers, waterfalls and caves. Luiz and I were eager
to do some swimming in the waterfalls and caves.</div>
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Everyone met at the airport in Salvador where we boarded a
large, comfortable passenger van pulling an equipment trailer. The drive to Lençóis,
our jumping off point to adventures beyond, took a lengthy six hours, but we
traveled during the evening and night so much of that time was spent sleeping.
Once at our destination we settled into the pousada that would be home for the
next several days, caught a few more hours of sleep, and then awoke to an early
breakfast. Bellies full, our group broke into its two sub-groups and we set off.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjglcnYwpdLdr1J0QKCrek9o0AItt6DZ4ALXqI7tsq7Mlj8UCsnbTI1M0YEGwCjhRe3fWucnd8PCSysZ6smtv2fhcXUG0D9mtXAQWhcagTLNkiFlsZoiGh1Yi-_wg-IwhoBS7wsYtIUMfGZ/s1600/PB140041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjglcnYwpdLdr1J0QKCrek9o0AItt6DZ4ALXqI7tsq7Mlj8UCsnbTI1M0YEGwCjhRe3fWucnd8PCSysZ6smtv2fhcXUG0D9mtXAQWhcagTLNkiFlsZoiGh1Yi-_wg-IwhoBS7wsYtIUMfGZ/s320/PB140041.JPG" width="314" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At a rest stop on our way to Lençóis. You know the hot sauce is hot when it is called, essentially, "Burn the Butt Hole."</td></tr>
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This is pretty much a photo-dense post. Why chat about the
view when you can just see it?</div>
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The town of <a href="http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Len%C3%A7%C3%B3is" target="_blank">Lençóis </a>is the most popular town in the park serving as a jumping off point. It is stocked with pousadas, guide agencies, restaurants and supplies stores. It is an old town established originally to serve diamond prospectors in the mid 1800s. The buildings are historic in nature and generally architecturally interesting and charming. Luiz was quick to point out upon our arrival that the beautiful stone paved streets, central plaza and arched stone bridges came into being by the hands/blood of slaves. It's an important reminder. Nearly all of the beautiful colonial towns you visit in Brazil were built with slave labor.</div>
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On our first full day in the park, heading out to Poço Azul (Blue Well), I commented to the driver that it was a good sign that the road was so whack. That way fewer people would be headed this way. He laughed and assured me that this was a recently improved road and that it was used daily by tour buses.<br />
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While the houses in the area were quite modest there was apparently a government program providing improved cisterns and water collection. Note the white drum on the left of the house above and the new rain gutters rimming the roof.<br />
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At one point along the road, thinking we had been traveling for just too long to be going in the right direction, the driver asked a boy walking along the side of the road if the cave was ahead. The boy said it was "a little long distance" up the road. After a good 15 more minutes we finally arrived at the cave.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOSszewdhbwIG3xptUg0bxHL8hTpZjwdgmoXofWpLCnvpHUnQiQvgxvC5POJXdVRPJzZL7BfwykMQwKHueie0r0fw2E7q9IKH1MctwHBB8fp9iV9r2aKxDRj4mKv5UpnOt-XIlg7TaG6zw/s1600/PB150083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOSszewdhbwIG3xptUg0bxHL8hTpZjwdgmoXofWpLCnvpHUnQiQvgxvC5POJXdVRPJzZL7BfwykMQwKHueie0r0fw2E7q9IKH1MctwHBB8fp9iV9r2aKxDRj4mKv5UpnOt-XIlg7TaG6zw/s320/PB150083.JPG" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending into the cave for a swim.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfn_tCXi822id4QsSkYFlzxhuo9idF75uMotctpURTgIt2D7vkxZP29Ei0MxMQs_LqutHmawy9sCVD8vocYXTI55IilSfPh5XO8WT7GY-hwb-XLwGbWUezDY3CQTv7re1OZCks7_MYwD-l/s1600/Chapada4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfn_tCXi822id4QsSkYFlzxhuo9idF75uMotctpURTgIt2D7vkxZP29Ei0MxMQs_LqutHmawy9sCVD8vocYXTI55IilSfPh5XO8WT7GY-hwb-XLwGbWUezDY3CQTv7re1OZCks7_MYwD-l/s320/Chapada4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using snorkels we could see amazing rock formations under the surface.</td></tr>
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After a tasty lunch of local foods, including a green papaya salad and some kind of cactus side dish that tasted like crunchy green beans, we headed off to another cave famous for its blue water pool, Poço Encantado.<br />
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Between April and September the sun in the sky lines up just right with the entrance to the cave to shine directly into the deep pool within. The light, shining through the water rich with magnesium, sets the cave aglow from the brilliant blue water. As we would have it - we were visiting in November. We saw a really cool cave, but had to rely on photos to see the choice images.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-h3d2vWoXgOIPlUqpg7AMslP3UR6_MWjHe6RF4crvf2iqbm9zTvBl8XgDBP2JtpOnjjfv39s62tlscJ2O1euyYo3B_XG4zuhF4o3yDEnqVUntgglN4xX7YtlTddcAaTH0FnE43Jc9JIsh/s1600/PB150125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-h3d2vWoXgOIPlUqpg7AMslP3UR6_MWjHe6RF4crvf2iqbm9zTvBl8XgDBP2JtpOnjjfv39s62tlscJ2O1euyYo3B_XG4zuhF4o3yDEnqVUntgglN4xX7YtlTddcAaTH0FnE43Jc9JIsh/s320/PB150125.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The sign reminds us to take care to preserve things as they are for the benefit of all.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgitxse1aZonjrsRzNg6GUrrVrJcHXws-YSVK9ZxhPU3nVdnDwiQ6ZNWaU4v_Lo8eP3gnX7c85vmg3rQr6Nx6-mwGZcFxzB4VcwjjIsnVUCB5L6j-wi7YmKNeO4nq75LcufZWgVpYhrc2zR/s1600/Chapada9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgitxse1aZonjrsRzNg6GUrrVrJcHXws-YSVK9ZxhPU3nVdnDwiQ6ZNWaU4v_Lo8eP3gnX7c85vmg3rQr6Nx6-mwGZcFxzB4VcwjjIsnVUCB5L6j-wi7YmKNeO4nq75LcufZWgVpYhrc2zR/s320/Chapada9.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guides Christiane and Margo. The pool behind them is 40 meters deep.</td></tr>
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After Poço Encantado we returned to town for a cup of coffee and then to visit the local cemetery famous for its Byzantine style and for being lit up at night. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLF8xHzt3BkVrjULR2-YW-cR81v_t_ALHpqTyynlD9LFeD8U65dpABHhinNMN0iTyAcLMxS2lXza410ek651J3ZmOviY89puZ4B_z5AfwfNmyRZ4ZOPI56bGhSO5TvuHsr0I31Eswhwsc/s1600/cemetery_at_night_Mucuge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLF8xHzt3BkVrjULR2-YW-cR81v_t_ALHpqTyynlD9LFeD8U65dpABHhinNMN0iTyAcLMxS2lXza410ek651J3ZmOviY89puZ4B_z5AfwfNmyRZ4ZOPI56bGhSO5TvuHsr0I31Eswhwsc/s320/cemetery_at_night_Mucuge.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo credit: virtualtourist.com</td></tr>
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The town where you can find this cemetery is Mucugê. I loved this town. I thought it was way cuter than Lençóis. But to be fair, Mucugê is smaller than Lençóis and thus less developed for the tourist crowd. Both towns are wonderfully preserved historic towns with stone paved streets and 100 year old buildings. But for the cuteness factor - I liked Mucugê.<br />
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We had coffee at a SUPER CUTE coffee shop. They took themselves VERY seriously on the coffee front. Each coffee drink was served with a tiny cup of mineral water to cleanse your tongue before tasting the coffee. The ambiance was over the moon cute with fresh flowers, art, photographs and everything else. If you visit Mucugê be sure to stop by <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Piriquita-Caf%C3%A9/510324245726606" target="_blank">Piriquita Café</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the wall of the café Luiz found proof of global warming.</td></tr>
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The next day we set off for another cave and another swim. But first we stopped at a waterfall swimming hole, Poço do Diablo. It was a short hike from the roadway.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4kEnBjJVc7-j2xXB79_N9kahLCq8b9emoIrYTnufS3aSj4XJP42gqKZIvqg7ngMJmdaWXzedY5shA5h_UKE4ZiHPp9l_4SwCwMWb2ePJYLUeOdW6e793VA9oDIaPLDo-If-4phRR6PZZE/s1600/PB160154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4kEnBjJVc7-j2xXB79_N9kahLCq8b9emoIrYTnufS3aSj4XJP42gqKZIvqg7ngMJmdaWXzedY5shA5h_UKE4ZiHPp9l_4SwCwMWb2ePJYLUeOdW6e793VA9oDIaPLDo-If-4phRR6PZZE/s320/PB160154.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP25gA4bd_mDmx24lfqbihdwHu80BQdfSJeD-rUNPYeF8-l2iytEpjFOHGSe8ENXJwbrJNx881QLRczHIJMtQ6qOhIWjSm3KiQg3N1So57CRwffBKlJRegWtw8e28tDKV_btXfdKwef3u/s1600/PB160163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIP25gA4bd_mDmx24lfqbihdwHu80BQdfSJeD-rUNPYeF8-l2iytEpjFOHGSe8ENXJwbrJNx881QLRczHIJMtQ6qOhIWjSm3KiQg3N1So57CRwffBKlJRegWtw8e28tDKV_btXfdKwef3u/s320/PB160163.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luiz found a shortcut down the cliff to the swimming hole.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEtOgfV3ikoAc7GZEr58XDlnobnmF2PNGyRDT10RglLoQAMUSoAC4qWjsLBZDESjFyJnvwgrb74iW76PjeVwHSJqRye4YkVSVz5JEIel-foRhOcjy5YO0yXJRw7ETAyidMScqbXGtAby8O/s1600/PB160164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEtOgfV3ikoAc7GZEr58XDlnobnmF2PNGyRDT10RglLoQAMUSoAC4qWjsLBZDESjFyJnvwgrb74iW76PjeVwHSJqRye4YkVSVz5JEIel-foRhOcjy5YO0yXJRw7ETAyidMScqbXGtAby8O/s320/PB160164.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZIP! Splash.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqH5PHq9vH-xDi0ymKGrq0yt6McpSvn_NJEWBiVHTnbI6IvjQMtgMObe6AEvY7NScugGi5NSKcpVr1uQ7EWynbtwxQ8T05krom-K2-MInk5AB9FSXEEulgCIA93I0ODAVXCWwWfSE_kHLt/s1600/PB160173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqH5PHq9vH-xDi0ymKGrq0yt6McpSvn_NJEWBiVHTnbI6IvjQMtgMObe6AEvY7NScugGi5NSKcpVr1uQ7EWynbtwxQ8T05krom-K2-MInk5AB9FSXEEulgCIA93I0ODAVXCWwWfSE_kHLt/s320/PB160173.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luiz MUST enter all waterfalls.</td></tr>
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On to Gruta Pratinha. There we broke into groups and were outfitted with a flotation vest, mask and snorkel, and an underwater flashlight. A guide took us into a cave where the water was quite deep below us, but the ceiling of the cave was only a couple feet or so above the surface of the water. It was pitch black, but as a group we could light up the walls of the cave and some features below the water.</div>
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After the dark area of the cave we shed our equipment and took some photos in the mouth of the cave where there was much more light. Overall it was an amazing experience.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb1NA3S1dhjatc-AzCurlPYaie2TT_XF8pfgqnWTv39uuCWC-LP7WIERZJHF9R8VxrlEpcdHr0ei9MOH0PWWZP9VOuGlOIfc8JOnZq2_8mZGXo5RV8Gtcu7HUzieerDU03myPvFboxjE88/s1600/Pratinha1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb1NA3S1dhjatc-AzCurlPYaie2TT_XF8pfgqnWTv39uuCWC-LP7WIERZJHF9R8VxrlEpcdHr0ei9MOH0PWWZP9VOuGlOIfc8JOnZq2_8mZGXo5RV8Gtcu7HUzieerDU03myPvFboxjE88/s320/Pratinha1.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div>
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Once back in Lençóis we showered, napped and then went to dinner to celebrate our guide Junior's 38th birthday. He knew we were going to dinner, but was surprised to see the decorating we did and the delicious passion fruit birthday cake.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnm0LpyNSs0Pk5ExJvBlP9nMssvUAlrEUzYcAR8c1KqYdQE9ReeP3Ui7YfaGXKTmYKJIkUOy4ji2uKRbCCf7uQlUGhydUysAvDOZSF7Cq5IGaOBi5pjyGqkluxU8mBwE4TJo0F-3HifEn/s1600/Lencois2ar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfnm0LpyNSs0Pk5ExJvBlP9nMssvUAlrEUzYcAR8c1KqYdQE9ReeP3Ui7YfaGXKTmYKJIkUOy4ji2uKRbCCf7uQlUGhydUysAvDOZSF7Cq5IGaOBi5pjyGqkluxU8mBwE4TJo0F-3HifEn/s320/Lencois2ar.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The birthday boy is in the center.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9zcqWNP6jbbwxPecJSYXuJkuKdtuqoyvmBZG0dXp6IxJJYeyqWJ0Mgmm2yVRws5TglEsWjSho8nqEoUtDo4evG_e9Re9-YG2dvlBKl5QuAHN_j_z5rCoqCsnziGtwW0mwrw6V6nzPj6r9/s1600/Lencois7ro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9zcqWNP6jbbwxPecJSYXuJkuKdtuqoyvmBZG0dXp6IxJJYeyqWJ0Mgmm2yVRws5TglEsWjSho8nqEoUtDo4evG_e9Re9-YG2dvlBKl5QuAHN_j_z5rCoqCsnziGtwW0mwrw6V6nzPj6r9/s320/Lencois7ro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Oh, I almost forgot. We also climbed to the top of a plateau to get a glimpse of a sunset.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQM_eGlhWVnSbXMJ8vsg7B71GiZhw4kLdGaMI5flTmHdDfN3K8deSLokaGmkN7byycMmOvIH9GITcgrEEF1pGNdQNGgGZDvs8LzdHkuyC0VmwcchLeRW6NRczZRbam5F4fSYmZafcEuZar/s1600/PB160187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQM_eGlhWVnSbXMJ8vsg7B71GiZhw4kLdGaMI5flTmHdDfN3K8deSLokaGmkN7byycMmOvIH9GITcgrEEF1pGNdQNGgGZDvs8LzdHkuyC0VmwcchLeRW6NRczZRbam5F4fSYmZafcEuZar/s320/PB160187.JPG" width="228" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the sunset we turned around and saw a full moon rising!</td></tr>
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Finally, the next day, after a good long sleep, we walked to a very fun swimming hole near Lençóis.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNeKzeVVboAxsO7iM5LStBpc6Ilg41CKr62d82JkKF1Ze8Rm8YpnKcrbESotyTuL5stfC0vxgz01rAvlxbrio53FuYPMgHQKg2R82XyVDoSG9QwI8kJISBlWQAnciZwXRUxYJSfP-6GVWX/s1600/Chapada7mm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNeKzeVVboAxsO7iM5LStBpc6Ilg41CKr62d82JkKF1Ze8Rm8YpnKcrbESotyTuL5stfC0vxgz01rAvlxbrio53FuYPMgHQKg2R82XyVDoSG9QwI8kJISBlWQAnciZwXRUxYJSfP-6GVWX/s320/Chapada7mm.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Halfway to the waterfall there was a snack bar made of locally sourced building materials. The proprietors were selling fruit, chips, nuts, sodas, coconut water, regular water and beer. The guys had the perfect location to catch all the traffic. It was a great example of Brazilian make-it-work ingenuity. </div>
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This swimming hole was great because you could slide down the waterfall and splash into the pool below. It was a little bumpy on the butt, but you had to do it all the same. It was a great way to relax away most of our last day before setting off to Salvador much later that evening.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2J0W28mG8GoRXz9iuOHr98MlDs9sQMtHSo18alFidaML2lhxgZNzAJAo1ley77ClgLECzpmCePt-cjcdenpuNE_RWoG-PJgkAY22pNV85unLR6hVIOh7Hqux_ih6OwM2Vgpwj43AzXwP/s1600/Lencois9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF2J0W28mG8GoRXz9iuOHr98MlDs9sQMtHSo18alFidaML2lhxgZNzAJAo1ley77ClgLECzpmCePt-cjcdenpuNE_RWoG-PJgkAY22pNV85unLR6hVIOh7Hqux_ih6OwM2Vgpwj43AzXwP/s1600/Lencois9.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSxaDh0lS4KxZ-Tpp-lpnydokv4uKGZn9UnN6Rf6g_kM_gP_fhzezFGf6YUm4c81DL9pgedykqgm36nFh0akCaw2Pe8kiEIJqMEUHXN4TO1NuAqKycfOflud8f1fJQbOkm3iP9tGbMytd/s1600/Lencois10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSxaDh0lS4KxZ-Tpp-lpnydokv4uKGZn9UnN6Rf6g_kM_gP_fhzezFGf6YUm4c81DL9pgedykqgm36nFh0akCaw2Pe8kiEIJqMEUHXN4TO1NuAqKycfOflud8f1fJQbOkm3iP9tGbMytd/s1600/Lencois10.jpg" /></a></div>
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I need to give a shout out to some of the other folks in our group whose photos which we all shared on Face Book found their way over into this post. For the most part, the really good shots are by either Adilson Rezende or Renato Oliveira. Thanks guys, for helping us capture how beautiful this trip was.</div>
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It is worth mentioning as well that this post references the waterfalls and caves group while there was another group that took to the longer, overnight trails with spectacular views. Some of those photos are at the top of this post.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvZybVRObKkv7XGiAK6yxtKgAz_XYUDJAYOLne8Slk2rLpjQ0jX6CeldmZ5g-C9utmc7dTFtJCJDF4Cmn9VB26d1SibuM-p5Kj4oP_pzN0Af_FXEa3jj4G6sSbDIvDFgd3rV9iysl4N9Y/s1600/RJ+Adventura.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZvZybVRObKkv7XGiAK6yxtKgAz_XYUDJAYOLne8Slk2rLpjQ0jX6CeldmZ5g-C9utmc7dTFtJCJDF4Cmn9VB26d1SibuM-p5Kj4oP_pzN0Af_FXEa3jj4G6sSbDIvDFgd3rV9iysl4N9Y/s320/RJ+Adventura.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Luiz and I really want to appreciate everyone at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RJAdventure" target="_blank">RJ Adventura</a> for their passion for nature, commitment to safety, love of people as well as the outdoors, and their totally professional operation that never misses a beat. I have mentioned them before. We have gone with them on day trips in Rio, weekend trips around Rio and Luiz even walked through the clouds from Teresopolis to Petropolis in their company. They are great. We feel totally at home with Junior, Christiane and Margarida. We truly share their enthusiasm and values when it comes to ecotourism and our time under their leadership is never disappointing. Check them out at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/RJAdventure" target="_blank">their Face Book page</a>. (Margarita speaks English very well so English-only guests do not miss out on any information.) If you connect with them - tell them Luiz and Jim sent you.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwdSb5_ObxDhJty7i2kpp8_dXfYBvXBCJeDNHd5DS0N-AhRYuPBUxUSQm5-HaU9CK22gKl5g527rThX418Ta7dn_Ym6pMqH0_mUIZ2sKrOZ0vI2VG2Udw-2vp-aK8w6hMwja0Lylk48hH/s1600/P7140890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwdSb5_ObxDhJty7i2kpp8_dXfYBvXBCJeDNHd5DS0N-AhRYuPBUxUSQm5-HaU9CK22gKl5g527rThX418Ta7dn_Ym6pMqH0_mUIZ2sKrOZ0vI2VG2Udw-2vp-aK8w6hMwja0Lylk48hH/s320/P7140890.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here's Luiz waking up above the clouds on the RJ Adventura trek from Teresopolis to Petropolis.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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More to come. I'll save photos and tales of our time in Salvador right after this part of our trip for another post. Stay tuned.</div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-72800354455475154622013-10-31T15:39:00.001-02:002013-10-31T21:43:31.450-02:00Making Bahian-style moqueca in a clay pot<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3B8ech39Xp4vpr0RzRznP79x6tUTNfYF2knnSNzb9HZYutKrYlTqW1ILtv5Vv_u9mhAZ_9F53X0jZSViLm_AI7NjESdpQm7cBDb-tkqqlAJ2DSVO-OsDjgaIwWND_pt1ClkVAfsCRPj7v/s1600/moqueca1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3B8ech39Xp4vpr0RzRznP79x6tUTNfYF2knnSNzb9HZYutKrYlTqW1ILtv5Vv_u9mhAZ_9F53X0jZSViLm_AI7NjESdpQm7cBDb-tkqqlAJ2DSVO-OsDjgaIwWND_pt1ClkVAfsCRPj7v/s320/moqueca1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Few meals excite me as much as a seafood <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moqueca" target="_blank">moqueca</a> over rice
with a tasty <a href="http://flavorsofbrazil.blogspot.com.br/2011/01/pirao-at-roots-of-brazilian-cuisine.html" target="_blank">pirão</a>. Include a fresh salad and I will think (no, I will know) I
have died and gone to heaven. If everything is <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2009/08/cooking-in-stone-and-clay-pots.html" target="_blank">cooked in clay or stone pots</a> it
most certainly inspires a blog post.</div>
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A couple weeks ago I met a young neighbor who had never been
to Niterói’s remarkable fish market. It always surprises me when I, the gringo
new resident, know more about local treasures than folks born and raised here.
I guess that is not all too surprising. Some of our friends who have lived here
all their lives have never been to Sugarloaf or Corcovado in Rio. To be fair, I
lived in San Francisco for more than 8 years before I finally visited Alcatraz
Island (and then only when taking a tourist friend to see the place).</div>
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At any rate, I used my recent craving for a mouth watering
moqueca as an opportunity to show my new friend what he has been missing in
terms of quality fresh seafood at discount prices available only at the <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2010/03/fresh-fish-in-niteroi.html" target="_blank">São Pedro Fish Market</a>.</div>
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Some people like a fish moqueca. Others like a moqueca
swimming with plump, flavorful shrimp. Me – I say use them both. If you are going for
a full on seafood moqueca you may want to include mussels or clams, and maybe
some squid, but for the sake of avoiding local mussels pulled from our polluted
bay and the near-certain rubbery squid that would result from over cooking (it
is a stew, after all, and squid is super tricky when it comes to cook times), I
went with just fish and shrimp. Simple and delicious.</div>
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We perused the numerous stands at the market hawking shrimp
in various sizes. I bought about ¾ of a kilogram from the cutest fish monger I
could spot who was still selling his morning catch of crustaceans at a decent
price. I paid R$10 even. They were pretty big little guys. I was happy.</div>
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For fish I went with two big steaks of firm flesh dorado, a
little less than a kilogram overall. It is best to choose a fish with a firm
flesh so that it holds its shape and does not disintegrate when cooking in the
stew. I think I paid about R$8 for the fish, total.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MoC1R9maOdPz7rvTBC8hKGJLfwkcHmfTYiY2-T-6PAxPKLY_Tl-N9ARFUTsinVr5xJyYDwxR6XmMdPYLc_JoJ8jIn17v0M3-dCu1qQQh2k7LN-U9z8JsjdFJmODtSc3qcbzUt9rABiIc/s1600/PA160001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1MoC1R9maOdPz7rvTBC8hKGJLfwkcHmfTYiY2-T-6PAxPKLY_Tl-N9ARFUTsinVr5xJyYDwxR6XmMdPYLc_JoJ8jIn17v0M3-dCu1qQQh2k7LN-U9z8JsjdFJmODtSc3qcbzUt9rABiIc/s320/PA160001.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Back in my kitchen the first order of business was to shell
and de-vein the shrimp. I saved the heads and shells and boiled them up with
some chunks of onion, celery, a bay leaf and salt and pepper to get a simple
broth I would use later in the pirão.</div>
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After looking up a few Bahian-style moqueca recipes online I
cross referenced that with what Luiz said he usually does. It’s essentially a
fish stew made with coconut milk. You can feel your way around and do what
pleases you without really running the risk of ruining anything. Just don’t overcook
your seafood and you will be OK.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJy_yUBqCkQYvwO6N8AXMiIECi7834Z1yevhnmqrvHtUXVZZf5RsSlQesXlQo2vJVJLKRWr5CfBENq39VYfc0fqBwjrXtJf-svTGpYcdy0FRGreOdPzL_xfkJYB9VfWjPsQW9xaYzM5kVr/s1600/PA160002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJy_yUBqCkQYvwO6N8AXMiIECi7834Z1yevhnmqrvHtUXVZZf5RsSlQesXlQo2vJVJLKRWr5CfBENq39VYfc0fqBwjrXtJf-svTGpYcdy0FRGreOdPzL_xfkJYB9VfWjPsQW9xaYzM5kVr/s320/PA160002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here is approximately what I used:</div>
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- the fish and shrimp<br />
- a red and a green pepper, sliced into thin rounds<br />
- one large onion, sliced into thin rounds<br />
- several cloves of garlic, crushed<br />
- several tomatoes, seeded, sliced crosswise<br />
- a couple little hot peppers, seeded, chopped fine<br />
- a bunch of cilantro and scallions (cheiro verde), chopped fine-ish<br />
- 400 ml coconut milk<br />
- dendê oil for frying (this is the crucial ingredient for getting that Bahian
flavor)</div>
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You will also need about a cup of yucca flour (farinha de
mandioca) for the pirão.</div>
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The stew does not take very long to cook so be at the ready
with your ingredients and cooked rice. You may want to fuss over a salad in
advance. The pirão is quick and can be made after the moqueca is simmering. Just
be mindful that once you add the fish and then the shrimp to the stew you don’t
want to cook the crap out of it. Less is more when it comes to cooking fresh
seafood.</div>
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So here we go. </div>
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Prepare your rice the way you like it. Have your shrimp
broth strained, hot and at hand.</div>
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Luiz likes to marinate the fish and shrimp while working on
everything else. So we finely chopped some onions, garlic and cheiro verde and
mixed them with some olive oil. Then we tossed the shrimp and fish steaks in
this oil mixture and set aside. I think you could skip this step if you are
somehow pressed for time, but it is a tasty step.</div>
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Pour a couple tablespoons of dendê oil into your clay pot.
Keep in mind that the flavor of the oil is quite strong. You want that flavor,
just not so much that you overpower everything. Think curry – it tastes great –
but a little goes a long way. If you like to drown things in oil for cooking,
use half and half with canola oil. Heat the pot and the oil over medium high
heat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj_PWbbEvJc-au3zOKmPfTLXPK2mtIrbxuFhQp1F6dJZL9cSAbs4YRzL4FX3MoXKJ8fkdJ7P1HLuuHMJUlya3b_mwUfd11tROolItTvn4bLwlFmc5aVIHyaKHBkNVSLsgjcG907q4SfOa1/s1600/PA160004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj_PWbbEvJc-au3zOKmPfTLXPK2mtIrbxuFhQp1F6dJZL9cSAbs4YRzL4FX3MoXKJ8fkdJ7P1HLuuHMJUlya3b_mwUfd11tROolItTvn4bLwlFmc5aVIHyaKHBkNVSLsgjcG907q4SfOa1/s320/PA160004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Toss in and sauté up your onions and garlic. Everything will
take on the characteristic orange color of the dendê. Things should smell
pretty wonderful at this point, taking you back to the streets of Bahia. Reduce
heat and add the sliced peppers and chopped chilies. Cook just to soften. Add
the coconut milk, about a cup of shrimp broth and the chopped cheiro verde. Salt to your taste. Bring the mixture to near boiling. Gently add the fish steaks and cover with a
couple layers of sliced tomatoes. Cover and cook slowly for a few minutes, until
the fish is nearly cooked. A few minutes before you are ready to serve, stir in
the shrimp. Cover and cook until the shrimp are cooked, but not obliterated.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxrk4tMAPU5OnmPw7eq1pYf1jeIV5_gbC9dfvmcBV_TX-FsIwgENaRxvzDW1miOIOtX0Fh7sJokntjDT0jQalw3aLtKbjObmZZncShp-YLN422BB2dL40vd0KQwCvP2P3x0Mq8r6RCqAv/s1600/PA160005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxrk4tMAPU5OnmPw7eq1pYf1jeIV5_gbC9dfvmcBV_TX-FsIwgENaRxvzDW1miOIOtX0Fh7sJokntjDT0jQalw3aLtKbjObmZZncShp-YLN422BB2dL40vd0KQwCvP2P3x0Mq8r6RCqAv/s320/PA160005.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Scoop out a few ladles of your yummy, fabulous moqueca sauce
and add it to about 1.5 cups of the hot shrimp broth. Bring to a boil. While stirring
constantly, slowly sprinkle in the yucca flour until you have a thin meal
(thinner than polenta). Heat slowly and continue to stir. The mixture will
thicken as it cooks. Be careful not to add too much yucca flour or things will
get thick and sticky. You want it thin, yet with some texture. For a real treat
add a couple chopped up shrimp and some shredded fish from the moqueca. Stir, salt and otherwise correct seasoning to your taste, cover and set aside. It’s ready when you are but don’t delay too long. It continues
to thicken over time.</div>
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OMG – I’m drooling just typing this. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rRfwOiZH_Z-r6ww0PDf9iIOAYUAKXLeJjo7vmH3fLV4I_Mzzk14Z2u9z2Mj6yWfht8ARja_E3hHDR7BBFSxTKKx9lA58kyB0IE0naTxZLoQUyigJ5QgLxhakRZz4f9dao-5YFXOzlhoE/s1600/PA160006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2rRfwOiZH_Z-r6ww0PDf9iIOAYUAKXLeJjo7vmH3fLV4I_Mzzk14Z2u9z2Mj6yWfht8ARja_E3hHDR7BBFSxTKKx9lA58kyB0IE0naTxZLoQUyigJ5QgLxhakRZz4f9dao-5YFXOzlhoE/s320/PA160006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Set the table or just
call your family to serve themselves from the pots on the stove. Fish and
shrimp moqueca, rice, pirão and a bright salad. It doesn't get any better than
that! </div>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-58801548299672024252013-10-24T13:09:00.000-02:002013-10-24T13:27:28.886-02:00In celebration of the humble Brazilian dish towel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcGMCFfcYAJRVUxB7H3Waq1VQw6mdYSbt9uA-FLQFCxiEm-NoT2o2Shu4NmWza8VMFn5gi1007fT5baO4helWrySNjpugmuNX9SQ8ybgT3aHU2Tg5g_azPP7uxSKtYFg7jn-DoZ9GLaFs/s1600/pano-de-prato.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcGMCFfcYAJRVUxB7H3Waq1VQw6mdYSbt9uA-FLQFCxiEm-NoT2o2Shu4NmWza8VMFn5gi1007fT5baO4helWrySNjpugmuNX9SQ8ybgT3aHU2Tg5g_azPP7uxSKtYFg7jn-DoZ9GLaFs/s320/pano-de-prato.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you live here you definitely have one. I’m willing to bet
that we all have at least five or six. Between the three or four we have received
as gifts and not yet used (still sitting in a closet), the several in the
kitchen drawer currently in rotation, and the four or five well worn and soiled
towels since moved on to the household cleaning buckets, we are probably currently tossing
around more than a dozen panos de prato in our apartment.</div>
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Re-purposed from previously-used cotton sack material, the pano
de prato (kitchen, dish or ‘tea’ towel) is ubiquitous in Brazilian homes. You
can pick them up cheap, in their most basic and plain style, on the street from the guy selling them in various sizes
and weaves for about $R2 a pop. They work great for exactly what they are intended.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFTG0VDQwnfIfRtkPyLKxp0uLa-P_igdk2nGbDo1ruuaojSy9YaxSKRmIImU8SV5SypITC0UMat4jb3GkPC_hIas0m1ym0QhsGkKojbOfh17FOUR72T0sU8C0PUglHwDIq_UrfTt-eY73/s1600/20131023_084915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFTG0VDQwnfIfRtkPyLKxp0uLa-P_igdk2nGbDo1ruuaojSy9YaxSKRmIImU8SV5SypITC0UMat4jb3GkPC_hIas0m1ym0QhsGkKojbOfh17FOUR72T0sU8C0PUglHwDIq_UrfTt-eY73/s320/20131023_084915.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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What tickles me is how many versions of the towel you can find.
Some are simply crocheted around the outside edge to let you know it is for
your dishes and not your floor. Others have been delicately embroidered with geometric
patterns or kitchen images. Home sewing machines have moved grandmas everywhere
to secure appliqués of every happy description, dressing up the sack cloth.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZNa1qa5L0S6xDLY8H8VJp0tzOC_s0C_yPm7lHak2L5A4_mwL9Ane8Cv2rUsCjq4ZtRwuK5g8mvm97KJSaTXerR8z7hKgzFFhMtzItcu69e8ne6OqbxDzRNTUD3xVv9WkEL3F1ZQ1dI-Er/s1600/20131023_084839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZNa1qa5L0S6xDLY8H8VJp0tzOC_s0C_yPm7lHak2L5A4_mwL9Ane8Cv2rUsCjq4ZtRwuK5g8mvm97KJSaTXerR8z7hKgzFFhMtzItcu69e8ne6OqbxDzRNTUD3xVv9WkEL3F1ZQ1dI-Er/s320/20131023_084839.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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In nearly every tourist town we visit there is an older guy
(usually more than one) sitting on the sidewalk or on a planter’s edge in the
central square with a display of panos de prato embroidered (most certainly by
his wife back at the house) with a “Remember such-and-such” on them for sale as
souvenirs. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfIDYwOT8dYXOsbPZAUQIK5VHoDR_OH0OEnmffdToZfKZYo3FKN5C639eGZFl28UKOXLekwisaexxyA-ZOH3V85SW5Vv09kq1LiD_UbyOud3GIXg2-SfAXmzdgkP8MvNDw6L1rXVPBUhy/s1600/20131023_084944.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvfIDYwOT8dYXOsbPZAUQIK5VHoDR_OH0OEnmffdToZfKZYo3FKN5C639eGZFl28UKOXLekwisaexxyA-ZOH3V85SW5Vv09kq1LiD_UbyOud3GIXg2-SfAXmzdgkP8MvNDw6L1rXVPBUhy/s320/20131023_084944.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Our re-gifting drawer, filled with things we were given but
now plan to give to other unsuspecting recipients, is brimming with beautifully
painted, embroidered or crocheted towels that come our way on a regular basis.<br />
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The painted ones look great, but all that acrylic paint would
seem to run at cross purposes to the need for the towel to actually dry a wet
plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMtbBBU9roOs0rPfSb85I9uF1NIWpJl-3GjzazWchoz6YOBBAov4ROtLCUU7Bl-jBChO1dLTAZ7FdwJX8kTmsZOOWrgqavLE59JkfMNcjBzgNW3zE6S2iVJ2BeONwGR3GcUEsK34RHmUwJ/s1600/20131023_085500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMtbBBU9roOs0rPfSb85I9uF1NIWpJl-3GjzazWchoz6YOBBAov4ROtLCUU7Bl-jBChO1dLTAZ7FdwJX8kTmsZOOWrgqavLE59JkfMNcjBzgNW3zE6S2iVJ2BeONwGR3GcUEsK34RHmUwJ/s320/20131023_085500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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In any event, the humble dish towel is a cute feature in
every Brazilian kitchen. They are work horse dish towels that turn to decent
floor rags when they get too grey for next to the sink.</div>
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I use a bleached and sterilized one to strain my soy milk
meal when <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2013/10/homemade-tofu-demystified.html" target="_blank">making my own tofu</a>.</div>
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Simple joys: turning something old into something new. Being
practical in just the way your mother taught you – and her mother taught her.
Never throwing anything away. And keeping it all so cheerful.</div>
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<span lang="PT-BR">The pano de
prato. It’s quintessentially Brazilian.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-4728722512697882212013-10-18T16:58:00.001-03:002013-10-19T00:01:59.625-03:00Travel options in Brazil for the adventurous and others<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjktDZuU38lLreOVprUEFnl79t5mlHy-7IX-CSHDoJZnBGQy1_3I7KypV4JYEo7itwUfXQRQGo7MsJYQm1bYX-plDBj0BelQBk9_xanwoTFSguzpG_E4s_rvxKNPUSw8kyIncN6SFAKOWzV/s1600/Brazil+tourism.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjktDZuU38lLreOVprUEFnl79t5mlHy-7IX-CSHDoJZnBGQy1_3I7KypV4JYEo7itwUfXQRQGo7MsJYQm1bYX-plDBj0BelQBk9_xanwoTFSguzpG_E4s_rvxKNPUSw8kyIncN6SFAKOWzV/s1600/Brazil+tourism.jpg" /></a></div>
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Luiz and I are seasoned travelers. Between the two of us we
have been to more than 30 countries all over the world. Within Brazil we have
been to more locations than practically any other Brazilian we have met. Most of that travel has been on what most
people would consider a shoestring budget.</div>
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While some may find negotiating for a room with a private
bath in an otherwise (clean and quaint) sex worker-filled little hotel in Paris
objectionable, we find it a way to secure a room on the cheap (with our own
bath!) Truth be told, we did not realize it was an establishment utilized by
sex workers until after we had checked in, but we stayed. The room had a great
view of an adjacent flowered square, if we craned our neck hard to the left
while leaning off the tiny balcony (better view than the advertized “Acropolis
View” we once paid for in Athens, seen only out the bathroom porthole).</div>
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Over the years our pantomime communication skills have
gotten us out of many a tough spot, including catching a train on time in
Bangkok where we resorted to pulling on an imaginary overhead cord and voicing
a train whistle to get the tuk-tuk driver onto the right road to the station.</div>
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Travel and adventure have gone hand in hand. We enjoy
planning in advance but tend to nail down as little as possible prior to
actually arriving at our destination. Our general rule of thumb when landing in
a new city is to have a place picked out for the first night then stay open to
changes thereafter once we get the lay of the land. We follow our nose and trust
our gut. In the end it can really save a fist full of cash – and it’s fun! For
us, the journey is indeed what we enjoy about traveling.</div>
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But not everyone likes to travel this way. Some people,
lucky them, have the luxury of leaning on padded budgets rather than always
keeping a watchful eye out for the value discount.</div>
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Here in Brazil Luiz and I have traveled via various means at
one time or another: plane, bus, organized excursion, hired driver, van, tucked
under the wing of a new friend in a new town, and even the rare passenger train.</div>
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Over the years we have seen our travel choices evolve as our
budgets have grown (if only slightly) and our tolerance for hammock overnight
stays has faded into memory.</div>
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Speaking from personal experience, here are some thoughts on
ways to get around in Brazil, including their joys and pitfalls as we have seen
them. Whether you are planning to come visit us soon and extend your stay to do
some exploring, or you live locally and need a little push to get something
(anything) in motion, perhaps these ideas will get you started.</div>
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<b>Going it on your own.</b>
This is our preferred method. We are pretty comfortable reading guidebooks,
tracking down tips online, piecing together transportation and lodging options
and generally following our nose. Luiz and I share a travel style, that is, we
do not freak out over the details and are confident things will sort themselves out
just fine. Plus, as I’ve mentioned, we see our vacations in terms of every
minute and every discovery/challenge from the minute we leave our apartment on
one end through unlocking our apartment door upon return on the other - that
way any unforeseen bumps in the road at any stage are just more grist for the
mill. For us, it is not only about the destination.</div>
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Choosing a pousada (hotel or B&B) upon arrival can be
fun. Just plan to arrive with some time before sundown so you can walk around
and check out several options. We tend to start the search with an up-to-date
guidebook or personal recommendation, but looking around and taking a peek
inside several places can be a fun way to discover the feel for the place as
well as getting more of an inside view of various buildings, neighborhoods, and
price range values. Leave your luggage at the bus station, or take it to the
first pousada and ask them to look after it while you check out some others.
They will generally agree because it means you have to return to them at least
one more time, increasing their chance of you choosing them.</div>
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One of the times we went to Paraty we took an hour or so
walking around the historic district and checked out several pousadas before
choosing a 150 year old house-turned-pousada with a beautiful back garden. Most
of the properties look pretty much the same from the front, but once inside you
never know what you will discover. Even if you are not actually in need of a
place to stay, wander into several places and ask to see a room and their other
amenities. Some of these places are amazing!</div>
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Don’t buy into the hype expressed by travel agents or by
many folks online: a place is <i>never</i>
without a room to let. High season, special event weekends, World Cup or
Olympics – there is ALWAYS a room available <i>somewhere</i>.
It is safe to say you will never find these rooms online, but they are out
there. Trust me. OK, so it may not be the best room you have ever stayed in or
in the best location, but it is there. We have found a room in Provincetown, MA
during the 4<sup>th</sup> of July and Florence, Italy on the eve of Carnevale.
It takes some doing, but the room is out there (and often for much less than
you would have paid online). Get on the ground, talk to people (everyone you
come across), do some leg work, be flexible. One time Luiz and I arrived in a
tiny seaside village without a room booked. A woman learned of our need, packed
a bag and her small son, moved in with her mother, and rented her house to us
for several days (fully furnished, of course, and with access to her washing
machine). We needed a room and she needed the money.</div>
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As a car-less couple we have the sometimes disadvantage of
traveling via public transport options. Almost all of the time we work the
local bus system and other options rather than renting a car. Most, if not all,
of the local sights are usually accessible by bus or some other option
developed to shuttle travelers to and from said sights. Renting a car is seldom
the only solution to a problem. It is usually a perceived convenience – one
which we rarely see as such. There is always (95% of the time) another option (like
renting a scooter for the day, for example). More about car rental later.</div>
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Going it on your own keeps almost all of your options open
and generally allows for easy budget reallocation as new info presents itself.
Flexibility is key. But you have to have the chops for it, especially if
language is a barrier.</div>
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<b>Buying a package.</b>
This is the tempting half-independent, half-packaged route. The tour company
puts together the flight, rental car, hotel and maybe even tickets to a local
attraction or more. It works for folks who wince at the idea of digging through
guidebooks or searching travel site bulletin boards for the necessary tips to
make the most of an unfamiliar destination. If you go with a well respected and
proven travel company you are pretty assured to get an OK hotel at an OK price.
And you might even get a deal on the airfare. But the devil is in the details.</div>
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Our experience has been that the hotel is nice, but often
“nicer” than we really require. We would just as well stay in a place without a
pool, workout room, or bedside telephone (which we never utilize anyway) and go
with a smaller, more personal place at a lower price. The real kicker is
typically the location of the packaged hotel. We put a premium on a central
location since a good location often trumps the need for a rental car or
frequent taxis. After dark we enjoy being in a location where we can wander
through a pleasant area and enjoy an outdoor café or beach side stroll. Package
deals invariably put you further than you want from where you want to be.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUa2IIxzJ8CnILquyWeHK80LKBxC-05L7p7xbmGXkK3hVZmyvkE1TLXMC3mTscCk-Ts5S-Vsm2SjuQmNSZ3pCrlN0toh83K7Acctm-Px6IcaoKsMBBFvmt3muNtG0-_nL3dnoOkL_YDfSq/s1600/IMG_1980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUa2IIxzJ8CnILquyWeHK80LKBxC-05L7p7xbmGXkK3hVZmyvkE1TLXMC3mTscCk-Ts5S-Vsm2SjuQmNSZ3pCrlN0toh83K7Acctm-Px6IcaoKsMBBFvmt3muNtG0-_nL3dnoOkL_YDfSq/s320/IMG_1980.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This hotel was across the street from the ocean beach. We don't need to pay for a pool...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Packages are often a deal for what you get. You just have to
want all of what you are buying. Another plus is that you can forward the link containing
your package trip details to your friends and recruit them to come with you. Packages
have worked great for us when trying to motivate a group of friends (often
families with children) with varying vacationing styles to bust out a week long
party at a distant beach side resort area.</div>
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Brazil is over flowing with travel agents pulling together
packages to popular destinations. Choose wisely. The cheapest option is often
the most risky in terms of your overall satisfaction. Getting an official
license to be a travel agent is tough, but not that tough. A lot of people are
getting into the business, especially as the Brazilian government continues to
pour gazillions of $$ into the tourism sector. Everybody knows somebody who
runs an agency, owns a pousada, rents a van, acts as a personal guide, etc. If
you hook up with a low overhead agency it is best to find them by way of a
personal referral you trust. You can save a lot – or wind up being very
frustrated. Guarantees or refunds may be spoken about, but rarely play out in
reality. So-called refunds typically take the form of credit applied toward
future bookings or are steeply discounted for cash refunds. (True cash refunds
from businesses of ANY KIND in Brazil are rare.) Read the fine print in your
contract carefully. Again, choose an agent wisely. </div>
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A word about the Pantanal. In my book, for successful
wildlife viewing nothing beats <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantanal" target="_blank">the Pantanal</a>. The Amazon gets all the press, but
the nature of the dense Amazon jungle makes wildlife viewing very difficult at
best. The Pantanal, on the other hand, is a visually expansive wetlands area
half the size of France that is sure to satisfy even the most Discovery-Channel-like
expectations. The vast majority of people visiting the Pantanal will utilize a
tour company for some or all of their adventure. Going it on your own is technically
possible, but not practical. Nearly all of the Pantanal is private property, so
unless you and your family are renting a houseboat and crew for a week and
meandering through various waterways, it’s best to choose a tour operator that
is offering what you are looking for. Choosing how, where and when to visit
this area can be complicated. In brief, my personal opinion is: visit the northern
end of the region; dry or wet seasons each have their unique appeal; spend as
much as you can on quality accommodations, activity options and guide services.
Send me an email if you want further help.</div>
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<b>Buying into a planned
excursion.</b> Excursions are those soup-to-nuts adventures (or not) where you
buy into a pre-planned itinerary shared by a group of people led by a guide.
Luiz and I have gone on several such adventures with mixed results. They can be
a lazy three day weekend taking in an annual festival in some quaint mountain
town, or a 10-day hiking trip into the forest searching out waterfalls,
snorkeling inside caves and conquering mountain peaks.</div>
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We utilize excursion travel when the destination is out of
reach by bus or includes wandering about that is facilitated by a tour guide. A
good guide can open up the secrets in some locations that would otherwise be missed.
</div>
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The trick behind a great excursion experience is to know
your company/guide well and to be certain you share values and priorities about
your desired excursion experience. Things are not likely to go perfectly your
first couple times testing out operators, but with a little investment of time,
research, conversation and sought-out recommendations you should be able to
find a company that is a good fit for you. But in the beginning, manage your
expectations.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7fix73m_X3cDT-5mkuualgNZ1g2YZHTVOVHEZ8fIsO-GXW7vyrXpPHZL77u4_JqfQkhGsMrWxQTJXMbdjtlj1mJhsBqQNKsKeUfiytwcdQpSE6Nq-RA73pS2hRSLZnVYXSu0dHwnQ4Rg/s1600/P5300025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7fix73m_X3cDT-5mkuualgNZ1g2YZHTVOVHEZ8fIsO-GXW7vyrXpPHZL77u4_JqfQkhGsMrWxQTJXMbdjtlj1mJhsBqQNKsKeUfiytwcdQpSE6Nq-RA73pS2hRSLZnVYXSu0dHwnQ4Rg/s320/P5300025.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is our style of restaurant on the beach. We would never be taken here while on a regular commercial excursion. But when we travel with our eco-tourism group it is EXACTLY where we eat (we ate). That is Luiz at the counter ordering fresh fish for lunch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I guess I say this because Luiz and I have had a few missteps
in the excursion department, even while being conscious consumers.</div>
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We have not taken excursions led by international operators.
On the contrary, we have gone with much more local folks and companies. We don’t
demand much. In fact, most of our trips exceeded our expectations in the
transportation and accommodations department. It was in the “things to do”
department that we have had to be most investigative and assertive.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXxlTSDWV0VCcrVkNwuG4mHpBvJmaTOxY1OXWxLzy5C6P8KnUFcxp74P0LjqgSHrk_V5xsUPvorWsj-iLychRATImGXNtgFUHa4ISRLxJcyUfJAsJG4ulGj8wLDySrdLil0b3TQ_ZcwRSG/s1600/P4220338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXxlTSDWV0VCcrVkNwuG4mHpBvJmaTOxY1OXWxLzy5C6P8KnUFcxp74P0LjqgSHrk_V5xsUPvorWsj-iLychRATImGXNtgFUHa4ISRLxJcyUfJAsJG4ulGj8wLDySrdLil0b3TQ_ZcwRSG/s320/P4220338.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old coffee plantation manor house turned family museum and restaurant near Conservatoria.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We enjoy seeing the natural sights like waterfalls or big
parks. Our taste tends toward historic towns, characteristic architecture,
municipal museums and family run restaurants. Our experience with city/town excursions
thus far is that many set aside a significant amount of time to go shopping.
Shopping for clothes, wine, chocolate, house wares – you name it. If the region
is somehow famous for a consumer item the tour is sure to stop at a few shops
and encourage you to load up. As you might imagine, the guide gets a commission
for any sales s/he may bring to these shops. The pay scale for guides sucks, so
naturally they are very motivated to show you all the places to shop.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Urgh. Nothing could be more off the mark for us. So now we
are very careful to drill the operator about how the time will be spent, if
there will be shopping stops, what alternatives are available if we choose to
step off the bus, and where they plan to corral us all for lunch.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsBUT4K4HfXnJwT44z8ztWWRALt53LwYUxnL9Wx0yiQxL4RFWpnkYVl6akCXbbeyMSGH_fD_mUYdsfPgjYLp4JAF2uUMtCkL3-M98bhGEu78ifTT1kMRyQNzPQw-jKFe1kZ-rioOQZH9zs/s1600/P7150902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsBUT4K4HfXnJwT44z8ztWWRALt53LwYUxnL9Wx0yiQxL4RFWpnkYVl6akCXbbeyMSGH_fD_mUYdsfPgjYLp4JAF2uUMtCkL3-M98bhGEu78ifTT1kMRyQNzPQw-jKFe1kZ-rioOQZH9zs/s320/P7150902.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luiz on a 3 day hike from Petropolis to Teresopolis.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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We have yet to identify a perfect fit for small town
explorations, but in the eco-tourism department we have found a wonderful group
that fits us like a glove. This small company named <a href="http://jrrjadventure.blogspot.com.br/" target="_blank">RJ Adventura</a> out of Rio is
run by several outdoor enthusiasts/athletes who place adventure and activity
above all else. We have gone on several hiking trips in Rio state from 3 to 7
days long and have a trip planned in November for 10 days in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapada_Diamantina_National_Park" target="_blank">Chapada Diamantina</a>
in central Bahia state. This group can sometimes put us in pretty funky
sleeping quarters, but their passion, personality, attention to safety and
focus on the environment hits us in the bull’s eye. They speak a little
English, but not really.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In summary, excursion travel can be a carefree good value
overall, however it is really important to know your operator and get the
details on your trip: planned stops, what is included, what is not included
(how much extra cash you should bring), the demographics of your fellow
travelers, and most importantly the values of the operator and guide when it
comes to exploring various destinations.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Renting a car.</b> The
short bit here is: don’t rent a car unless you absolutely have to. Brazilian
drivers have earned their reputation as myopic, often-dangerous, inconsiderate
drivers (yes that is a generalization – and I stand by it, in general).
Depending on where you are roads can be dangerous to drive on, lack emergency
services and be overrun with scofflaws or worse. Most people do not find the
experience relaxing. To make matters worse, rental rates and the price of
gasoline (or alcohol, or natural gas) will make you reconsider your plans to go
on vacation in the first place. Or maybe not – maybe I’m just not used to local
automobile expenses as a fact of life. As I said, Luiz and I live a car(e)-free
life.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaT1EiVOT_4YsUi3yO7_XEGMy3X1SRY8EcOzgVHQ66qe6BL3e39qxWZcOZ_dBitwssnbvNfK58hNL82WauW33iqgAQyhCse9oODt9PMdaTpSrpOBhu3QaZAdSIB3Xki64oazSmutXUTf9/s1600/small+compact+car.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvaT1EiVOT_4YsUi3yO7_XEGMy3X1SRY8EcOzgVHQ66qe6BL3e39qxWZcOZ_dBitwssnbvNfK58hNL82WauW33iqgAQyhCse9oODt9PMdaTpSrpOBhu3QaZAdSIB3Xki64oazSmutXUTf9/s1600/small+compact+car.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pack light!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Just for the record I went to a travel website and did a search
for car rental in Rio for one week. A
tiny two door (you would need minimal luggage to make this work) rents for
R$563/week. R$315 is the fee, R$248 are taxes, etc. A four door with suitable luggage space rents
for R$797/week. That’s R$528 for the car and R$269 for the taxes, etc. Then
there is insurance, parking, fuel and the like to consider.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Often times, if you just need a car for one day you can rent
a guy with their vehicle to take you where you want to go. Negotiate a good
deal. Be nice to him. Buy him lunch. Or consider renting a scooter to explore
the local hot spots. Rental cars are often the default setting for some but
they are only sometimes the best solution in any given situation. Give it some
thought.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Airline tickets.</b>
Brazil is a huge country with very long distances between popular locations.
First time visitors often ask about cramming trips to the Amazon, Salvador, Rio
and Foz de Iguacu into one two week vacation. [Good luck with that.] Plane
travel within Brazil used to be prohibitively expensive. Fares were ridiculous.
But in recent years, thanks to a degree of deregulation and the introduction of
low-fare airlines, the prices have dropped considerably. It is now definitely
worth comparing fares for bus transportation vs. airlines. But do consider how
the location of the airport vs. the bus station impacts local ground
transportation options. If you have a favorite website for checking airfares
beyond a generic Google search for same, please mention it in the comments.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Bus tickets.</b> The
inter-municipal busses in Brazil are very comfortable, safe and affordable.
Controls keep track of your luggage and (mostly) prevent busses from pulling
out of pit stops without you if you tend to straggle. We choose to book the
overnight schedules for longer trips. Be sure to buy tickets for the more
comfortable so-called “leito,” “semi-leito, ” or “executiva” options. These
busses provide seats that recline partially or completely for easier sleeping.
Some are ridiculously comfortable (three seats across, fully reclining). The
higher price also tends to weed out many families with children, so the bus may
be quieter as well. Unlike in the States, buses in Brazil tend to be quite direct
with just one or two stops between major cities. Travel times are relatively
fast, for ground transportation. Tales of crazy bus drivers traveling at insane
speeds on dangerous roads are a bit exaggerated nowadays. Back in the day it
was all true, and then some. But now – not so much. <a href="http://www.antt.gov.br/" target="_blank">This governmental website</a>
is a good place to start when looking for road transportation options.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLnnt2wrNtzS7hhLqG0Cs5FHjzxH46IsLrjAoIrxk3ucLHn0lAdD07U0w73eZMNeNcOZIMuUoKCVALhyp0GGwGJ2sSTmSAvmRXpOdpgZQ9XGUjJuyFZMIPvit4fUVoqhoTKCd_EpLsNPX/s1600/go+travel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLnnt2wrNtzS7hhLqG0Cs5FHjzxH46IsLrjAoIrxk3ucLHn0lAdD07U0w73eZMNeNcOZIMuUoKCVALhyp0GGwGJ2sSTmSAvmRXpOdpgZQ9XGUjJuyFZMIPvit4fUVoqhoTKCd_EpLsNPX/s1600/go+travel.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
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A good travel agent can help you with most all of the
options I’ve mentioned. Their minimal fees tacked on for helping you out with
bookings, etc. are worth the service.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-25746507562219438232013-10-08T12:32:00.000-03:002013-10-08T23:14:08.941-03:00Checking out the Gay Pride Parade 2013 in Niterói<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUop9Oelxns1zfd6gWgZ4s3fAB8PeaFcVe0oN404TB6fsZJj1FaIPxw8FqsVC6TTEse-u03guex_mM1YLuMbWWFoW1F2_JnKGds_OknRMRlaqpYeB8Q1wqvjrZbv1lzz2Oa6Uy96mpRds/s1600/PA060006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggUop9Oelxns1zfd6gWgZ4s3fAB8PeaFcVe0oN404TB6fsZJj1FaIPxw8FqsVC6TTEse-u03guex_mM1YLuMbWWFoW1F2_JnKGds_OknRMRlaqpYeB8Q1wqvjrZbv1lzz2Oa6Uy96mpRds/s320/PA060006.JPG" width="232" /></a></div>
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It’s always a shot in the arm to be out with my people.
Unlike a lot of folks, I really enjoy a huge crowd. I like the energy, the
smiles, the friendly moshing, and especially the people-watching. Let me qualify
this: I like huge <i>peaceful</i> crowds.</div>
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For more than 25 years Luiz and I have been attending Gay
Pride events that have inevitably attracted huge crowds. Huge can be relative.
Rio-huge is bigger than Niterói-huge is bigger than Itaipuaçu-huge. San
Francisco-huge is bigger than Oakland-huge is bigger than Santa Cruz-huge. But
in all our years attending queer pride events, they have ALWAYS been peaceful,
no matter the number of celebrants.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvu4RusWFinnY-B7BtlGaM1CkbY-MJzbEJ0lYC-rBMhSbilXpkX7VvdRjIzRe3emBnKokZ4AZSOnha1DWP8-YNMtq2xxFKcfTC8Az2GpzL03LiJhXkWUB2Qe0fiYOGWmQZPLe11DOuFXDS/s1600/PA060037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvu4RusWFinnY-B7BtlGaM1CkbY-MJzbEJ0lYC-rBMhSbilXpkX7VvdRjIzRe3emBnKokZ4AZSOnha1DWP8-YNMtq2xxFKcfTC8Az2GpzL03LiJhXkWUB2Qe0fiYOGWmQZPLe11DOuFXDS/s320/PA060037.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The organizing groups are decidedly political organizations.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It’s just gosh darn great to go to Icaraí beach in Niterói
and join tens of thousands of other LGBT folks and our allies and dance
together in the street. Sign me up. Every year.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gVC88R1T7CNPIYity0Co5cf7pDwApT5XW9T_Cq8bVfBGmvDWKrly_KZqfcXSCX16jmjSpmFeWBuKT_Bm_dSr3oEzFNioW6ajlB_k0EpXrZ4tSgTiwmMGHlLA-BSLpRiNRjHq2BRsRVJi/s1600/PA060011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8gVC88R1T7CNPIYity0Co5cf7pDwApT5XW9T_Cq8bVfBGmvDWKrly_KZqfcXSCX16jmjSpmFeWBuKT_Bm_dSr3oEzFNioW6ajlB_k0EpXrZ4tSgTiwmMGHlLA-BSLpRiNRjHq2BRsRVJi/s320/PA060011.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The event really got going at about sunset.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Over the years our experience at these events has been mixed
and varied. In San Francisco the Parade was very political back in the 80’s and
early 90’s. Then it morphed into a corporate-sponsored vanity event for a while
and in recent years it seems to have morphed into an event that sufficiently
pisses off some for being too political and others for being too commercial
(that means it has probably found the inevitably mutually dissatisfying middle
ground). </div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjws4mgDE-sNc_AWspBBhEel5IpUxHjk5hwF2hyHnRkRlWg6xTb5tz3izBKJy_J4mOfN0SNZOC6VuoA4p3sc_yCuYKFpVafJpWCzNB-hZoaRMDa9igDh5MWQHY3CLVU5rudPlhmBEefAEmZ/s1600/PA060029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjws4mgDE-sNc_AWspBBhEel5IpUxHjk5hwF2hyHnRkRlWg6xTb5tz3izBKJy_J4mOfN0SNZOC6VuoA4p3sc_yCuYKFpVafJpWCzNB-hZoaRMDa9igDh5MWQHY3CLVU5rudPlhmBEefAEmZ/s320/PA060029.JPG" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rejection + hatred + aversion + discrimination + violence against LGBT = HOMOPHOBIA</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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In Rio and Niterói the events are decidedly political in
nature, from the organizers’ perspective. Rallying slogans have been to
criminalize homophobia, to come out of the closet and to fight for the right to
love who you want. All the while, the folks that gather have one heck of a good
time in the sun and into the night – dancing, singing, parading, laughing and
just plain enjoying each other.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKcwIApnUFAtiB2L69qC6bmBHGLPIX3ONyqCGmCPI0862BIjFf_zx7T7FptVzbH6wigp8JqvzRrqsuDkUF9FzGjwP2FKDNQ-znZFj37dyNPhme9eUmZ4FiCC24UX7btbUVThfl5C6PkCr/s1600/love+who+you+want.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhKcwIApnUFAtiB2L69qC6bmBHGLPIX3ONyqCGmCPI0862BIjFf_zx7T7FptVzbH6wigp8JqvzRrqsuDkUF9FzGjwP2FKDNQ-znZFj37dyNPhme9eUmZ4FiCC24UX7btbUVThfl5C6PkCr/s320/love+who+you+want.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep calm and love the one you want.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
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The whole dress-up thing was a lot more prevalent in San
Francisco, I must say. Rainbow this and rainbow that. We frequently hosted a
Gay Day brunch for our friends prior to taking to the streets which often
included cooperative over-the-top dress up sessions and swapping rainbow accessories.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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Last Sunday in Niterói I venture to guess that Luiz and I
were two of only 10 people at the whole event wearing rainbow bling. Seriously.
People were going all out in the fun department, but it was decidedly rainbow
bling-free. WUWT? Whatever… we felt right at home all the same.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis3c4FQNmy63rLnTphM1qT_OyU5nu0qlnwhhQmEU1zbj4xZbwhmnepab4-fFFo4B9C3j-w5PqLJTtorK4l4sl8wghThD_6AxHLn-8J3qA-jN2wyknQp-zoNR_cOzS5-3D67ysfr6DkMzUn/s1600/PA060001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis3c4FQNmy63rLnTphM1qT_OyU5nu0qlnwhhQmEU1zbj4xZbwhmnepab4-fFFo4B9C3j-w5PqLJTtorK4l4sl8wghThD_6AxHLn-8J3qA-jN2wyknQp-zoNR_cOzS5-3D67ysfr6DkMzUn/s320/PA060001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With our new buddy Pedro.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This year we met up with a young guy who touched base with
me via this blog. Turns out he is a neighbor, living less than one block from
our apartment. Go figure. Pedro. Nice guy. We met up in front of the grocery
store at the corner and walked to the parade together. It was interesting to
get a fresh faced and local queer perspective on the whole being out/parading/gay
night life/community thing going on in Niterói. Well, at least one guy’s take.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In short it would appear that Luiz and his crew had more
queer fun in Niterói in one weekend back in the day than these kids today are
having in an entire summer season. But hey, that’s just our smug perspective. I
think there is something to be said for going out and meeting people in the
streets, in the bars, in the cafés, in the parks, and at parties that tops the
hand-held computer app approach (puns intended). But again, that’s just us
older guys talkin’ over here…</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ll keep my overall summary to myself until I pursue
further research on the subject. Any and all firsthand experience of queers in
Niterói is welcomed in the comments (pun NOT intended).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-r2MyATaulHqUk_fqEQRoQRCvgHm-W8m4nudatQeNkwJowEpP70QL7Nya8bpCKXEDlTf3wwo6i7euAS2CtiMQ1O4gqaciEs-_gWCN7rdl7_4DhIRVOXX1VAcRcpA00RfwF5sSEtXMpby/s1600/PA060053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh-r2MyATaulHqUk_fqEQRoQRCvgHm-W8m4nudatQeNkwJowEpP70QL7Nya8bpCKXEDlTf3wwo6i7euAS2CtiMQ1O4gqaciEs-_gWCN7rdl7_4DhIRVOXX1VAcRcpA00RfwF5sSEtXMpby/s320/PA060053.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Service in the street.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Don’t get me wrong. We had a great time out with the kids in
the streets. We always do. No matter how much things may change, some things
will always be the same for me. Give me a chance to go out with my people and I’m
there.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next Sunday, October 13th, is the Parade in Rio. <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ParadaDoOrgulhoLgbtDoRioDeJaneiro?directed_target_id=0" target="_blank">Check it out</a>.</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-29203771876401922302013-10-04T11:40:00.000-03:002013-10-21T09:54:53.591-02:00Homemade tofu demystified<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIRWc_4epBGgalwD96ShjlKbAZViAOuw2bZwhIpYMMnX7xxcwlAEe94z-OvxPOEosvawkQO0O7eRQ4NUCM8pmYeupFolYZZjzZxTJGlMcN6dv1MjziskOSeqBOE3Fqm_5mEQlg9cuNqiED/s1600/PA030008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIRWc_4epBGgalwD96ShjlKbAZViAOuw2bZwhIpYMMnX7xxcwlAEe94z-OvxPOEosvawkQO0O7eRQ4NUCM8pmYeupFolYZZjzZxTJGlMcN6dv1MjziskOSeqBOE3Fqm_5mEQlg9cuNqiED/s320/PA030008.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Adapting to local food realities is a process. I’ve posted
about it many times. Today I have a DIY success story about tofu. An old myth I’ve
carried around has been exploded, thanks to some help from fellow Brazil
Blogger Laura at <a href="http://backtothelandinbrazil.blogspot.com.br/" target="_blank">Back-to-the-Land in Brazil</a>. </div>
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Fresh, homemade tofu – welcome to my kitchen.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYFHgSV2A1HeEX-dWTjQvPnCRJH2sTbj-9UBUfasGnsZn3mV5mwbgNA8ZRMj8eqUmxvwTFLVfuE5MTj9XgBhoiGD9A6a3Rqm0SBd2RLtfHkZxhvO59u2oohIha6XbkqYMTRUm-TcyNI-7/s1600/PA030019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyYFHgSV2A1HeEX-dWTjQvPnCRJH2sTbj-9UBUfasGnsZn3mV5mwbgNA8ZRMj8eqUmxvwTFLVfuE5MTj9XgBhoiGD9A6a3Rqm0SBd2RLtfHkZxhvO59u2oohIha6XbkqYMTRUm-TcyNI-7/s320/PA030019.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
Given the silly-high price of tofu in the natural foods
stores I have not eaten it (aside from in restaurants) in years. I just can’t
bring myself to spend R$10.50 on a 250 gram (8.8 oz.) block. Tofu has been one
of those items I used to eat a lot of that I have given up since I moved to
Brazil.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Somehow I got it into my head that making tofu was
difficult. I spent time a few months back (maybe more than a year ago now)
searching online for a home kitchen tofu maker that I could add to my extensive
collection of electric kitchen conveniences. All I could locate were <a href="http://www.soya.be/soy-milk-maker.php" target="_blank">soy milk makers</a>. I thought that was a dead end, so I gave up on the idea of making my
own tofu.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Man was I confused (ignorant).</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Thanks to a calming walk-me-through email from Laura and a
companion <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=HMZx0AStWdw" target="_blank">DIY video she made</a>, I set out to make my own tofu. I also watched a
few more videos on You Tube, including <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-w4wQtYVl7k" target="_blank">this one from America’s Test Kitchen</a>.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Take it from me (and Laura). Making your own tofu is easy
and the results are delightfully wonderful. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Here is what I did:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2RZtfjm74AMwt02qUEn9hjf1MJSsO2LlYJqolzO51MLD1QQGSxBV7pLoF9S6O0re4DYoO9P1wcxNYixKPddwuKbMQsy1vL2ds-0trB0mSWpG3nzg8T9J3OXxESCNVOV13STKWQwm__wxQ/s1600/PA010013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2RZtfjm74AMwt02qUEn9hjf1MJSsO2LlYJqolzO51MLD1QQGSxBV7pLoF9S6O0re4DYoO9P1wcxNYixKPddwuKbMQsy1vL2ds-0trB0mSWpG3nzg8T9J3OXxESCNVOV13STKWQwm__wxQ/s320/PA010013.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Ingredients: 500 grams of dried soy beans, 2 teaspoons of
Sal Amargo (a coagulant) and water. == that’s it!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The dried beans sold in bulk at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/IrmaosDaTerra" target="_blank">my favorite natural foods store</a> are half the price of those sold in packages at the supermarket. I got
them for R$5 per kilogram (store bought pkgs go for R$5 per 500 grams). Finding the coagulant
was more of an adventure. Sal Amargo is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_sulfate" target="_blank">magnesium sulfate</a> (sulfato magnésio),
commonly called Epsom salt in the USA, and can be found at some pharmacies.
Laura had suggested that I might also find it at my local grocery store in the
spice section, but I had no luck there. I actually went to about 10 different
pharmacies before I found it, including a couple homeopathic shops who offered
to order me some for a crazy price. When I finally located a pharmacy that sold
it, it was just R$3.80 for a 30 gram pouch (enough for 4 or 5 batches of tofu).</div>
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<br /></div>
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Keep in mind that Laura lives in an area in Brazil with a
larger Japanese immigrant population than here in Niterói. It makes sense,
then, that Sal Amargo would be more commonly available there. So if you live in
such an area, perhaps you will find it more easily than I.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Anyway, here is the simple procedure. I went with the
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-w4wQtYVl7k" target="_blank">America’s Test Kitchen procedure</a> because it seemed slightly easier than Laura’s
but they are VERY similar.</div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Wash your soybeans, removing any bad beans or
small stones that may have found their way into your supply. Cover substantially
with water and let them soak overnight. You want at least 8 hours of soaking.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Drain and rinse your soaked beans.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Place about 1 cup of beans and 3 cups of water
into a blender and liquefy the beans. Pour into a large pot for boiling. Repeat
until all of your beans have been liquefied. Use a sturdy stainless steel or
aluminum pot. Avoid a non-stick pot as the boiled mixture will create a film
ring (and maybe some scorching on the bottom) that will require a bit of
scrubbing to clean and you do not want to scrub away at your non-stick coating.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejdTZpos2qTF5OKHK1qK3qxmMbwc-EtaUSTQgxx9pXLGMdmpBm-KhUpnYugAi256xModPg7AtYLalDLGfk3Cb2fXNzlg-DJkQKpBS_YicmWqQDlA338uJ3eUf_swTPayGGU31j4SJIEx1/s1600/PA020016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhejdTZpos2qTF5OKHK1qK3qxmMbwc-EtaUSTQgxx9pXLGMdmpBm-KhUpnYugAi256xModPg7AtYLalDLGfk3Cb2fXNzlg-DJkQKpBS_YicmWqQDlA338uJ3eUf_swTPayGGU31j4SJIEx1/s320/PA020016.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Stirring to avoid scorching, bring the slightly
grainy mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. It will foam
up so keep an eye on it and stir.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Strain the heated mixture through a sterilized
straining cloth (I used a new saco de farinha = recycled flour sack or tea
cloth) into another pan for further heating. You want about 3+ liters (or 13+
cups) of milk, more or less. You can add more heated water to your leftover soy
solids to extract more milk, if desired.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjRhoctDQCniYtEHHp4eKACBKEdnmlIMMQ2-s5K3LCwynuNbnqhaC-_ovJnzhD2SAlbFT7eZGCU-8ryq8OUhuVqIX_EizjIrC2pLY_RbOoHZ3yHVXeXQGC1JkMAg5bgUa1QAovx0BDlbe/s1600/PA020014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjRhoctDQCniYtEHHp4eKACBKEdnmlIMMQ2-s5K3LCwynuNbnqhaC-_ovJnzhD2SAlbFT7eZGCU-8ryq8OUhuVqIX_EizjIrC2pLY_RbOoHZ3yHVXeXQGC1JkMAg5bgUa1QAovx0BDlbe/s320/PA020014.JPG" width="315" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Dissolve two teaspoons of Sal Amargo into a cup
of water.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Heat your strained soy milk to boiling. Remove
from heat. Using a figure 8 stirring pattern to ensure good mixing, carefully
pour in half of your coagulant liquid. Stir for about 30 seconds then let it
sit for about 2 minutes. You will see the curds forming. They form from the
bottom up, so liquid will gather at the surface.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_pn2Ba4YBHOFnmKzzV43mVG6hqw5YsWCH3eBHUkCSatNfiMpCVCVHmBWZwROCr0peabVryCdDP3_w7aHCg5G_jitGzFLauTeJIoFeQ14DNQCdQUzvNctoPU8Llt2ykZEeRAaR3vJfNLT/s1600/PA030001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_pn2Ba4YBHOFnmKzzV43mVG6hqw5YsWCH3eBHUkCSatNfiMpCVCVHmBWZwROCr0peabVryCdDP3_w7aHCg5G_jitGzFLauTeJIoFeQ14DNQCdQUzvNctoPU8Llt2ykZEeRAaR3vJfNLT/s320/PA030001.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Gently sprinkle the remaining coagulant over the
top and stir the surface carefully so as to not break up the curds already
forming lower in the pot.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Put a lid on your pot and let it sit for 20
minutes or so.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Carefully strain out your curds with a slotted
spoon or other utensil and transfer to your prepared mold. Here Laura first
uses a small strainer pressed into the curds to isolate the whey which can then
be skimmed off with a ladle. I did this too. It concentrates the curds and
seemed to help keep them firm and together when transferring to the mold.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5wqOi_eKEQMvizc_R9A2NuxkDdigW3JojCOiyugcTzb3oAyn3UliFVGWO-a_FRj2lsLRp3xVEsfdYLf-wywoNl5gQEkGONXtJd6Wzdcq-T8dOat-bWPPMuXPGUxMOd8V9nZv0Vt2Cvky/s1600/PA030002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv5wqOi_eKEQMvizc_R9A2NuxkDdigW3JojCOiyugcTzb3oAyn3UliFVGWO-a_FRj2lsLRp3xVEsfdYLf-wywoNl5gQEkGONXtJd6Wzdcq-T8dOat-bWPPMuXPGUxMOd8V9nZv0Vt2Cvky/s320/PA030002.JPG" width="256" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>For a mold I used a cheese mold I bought some
time ago at the <a href="http://qualidadedevida-jim.blogspot.com.br/2010/03/mercado-central-in-belo-horizontes.html" target="_blank">Mercado Central in Belo Horzontes</a>. It was perfect for the
task at hand. You can easily make a mold by lining a perforated plastic
container, like those grapes are sold in, with your cleaned straining cloth.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4sA2yyJTrUPjReA6-rIVoMFKhQMD3befhpkd-eTRzaDL4QzADfZtVlEUo7Gs8nFlN9BUu7_5PPD-Ttz2G0cx8wAe7a0aGyYj3zQ8O4UFIJRhyc2TBzX3cAP-m8UN6g_QjLeDmAl7SCpVl/s1600/PA030004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4sA2yyJTrUPjReA6-rIVoMFKhQMD3befhpkd-eTRzaDL4QzADfZtVlEUo7Gs8nFlN9BUu7_5PPD-Ttz2G0cx8wAe7a0aGyYj3zQ8O4UFIJRhyc2TBzX3cAP-m8UN6g_QjLeDmAl7SCpVl/s320/PA030004.JPG" width="238" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Cover your curds with the rest of your cloth and
then weigh down the top with a box of milk or juice.</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Apply pressure, draining your curds, for about
30 minutes.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMZzzueKXnGk9VVflbVYNcXUn7oJFZQYt11gPqiBZOoReQDvVfsP-_TCkhXpuMb_HVkuQPA7VXpebzhoy4xq7cud1JxwOuQu8epTp8IbF2PjcEi8mY2EpMnxfufY8LKaXo9j7qnyJQVsd/s1600/PA030006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMZzzueKXnGk9VVflbVYNcXUn7oJFZQYt11gPqiBZOoReQDvVfsP-_TCkhXpuMb_HVkuQPA7VXpebzhoy4xq7cud1JxwOuQu8epTp8IbF2PjcEi8mY2EpMnxfufY8LKaXo9j7qnyJQVsd/s320/PA030006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Place your compressed curds into an ice bath. It
helped to transfer the wrapped curds into the water first, give them a few
minutes to chill, then remove them from the wrap and chill completely.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPvzq2OOTt2JLSYh0e707Q7j1k1WoG38bazE4lL9SQ19yUrMRGWoFWTnYeNZEFrnIIhpIzAgTP9ueF02CofpkkoCILMpSm1pI66Oh-l07-uQ6Hdw12192J6YiPK1-5JfvkjJab80H15p8W/s1600/PA030007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPvzq2OOTt2JLSYh0e707Q7j1k1WoG38bazE4lL9SQ19yUrMRGWoFWTnYeNZEFrnIIhpIzAgTP9ueF02CofpkkoCILMpSm1pI66Oh-l07-uQ6Hdw12192J6YiPK1-5JfvkjJab80H15p8W/s320/PA030007.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span><b>Thats it! Fresh tofu!</b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]-->-<span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span>Store in an airtight container covered in water
in your fridge. It will stay fresh for about 5 days, changing water daily.</div>
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<br /></div>
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This stuff is delicious. And the texture turned out nice and
firm, the way I like it. Plus, I just spent about R$3.25 making a quantity of
tofu that would cost R$21 or more in the store.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Goodbye tofu-making misconceptions.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It seems my fears were unfounded. My impulse to buy a
machine to help in the process was half right. The real work in the effort to
make tofu is first making the soy milk. You need fresh soy milk because the
stuff sold in stores has been treated in such a way that it no longer works to
make tofu. So if I were to get me a soy milk maker it would take care of more
than half of the work. But then, I would have to clean the machine. Personal
preference here, I guess. Overall the process was pretty simple and if I am
doing the laundry or other chores that have me in and around the kitchen
anyway, the down time needed to boil, set and press the tofu could be doubled
up into other activities.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The best part is the great lunch of fresh tofu. Or maybe a
green Thai curry with tofu and vegetables… the possibilities have opened up.
Tofu is back in my life!</div>
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<br /></div>
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Be sure to <a href="http://backtothelandinbrazil.blogspot.com.br/" target="_blank">check out Laura’s blog</a> for lots of heartwarming
posts about living in Brazil (especially if you love to make bread).</div>
</div>
Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7043287896001157919.post-14482873386169010292013-09-25T20:13:00.002-03:002013-09-25T21:25:09.085-03:00Visiting two flower festivals in northern São Paulo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpZGcyGjchMlY2qzDDU5wCaPBpSwjwRyD94eWfQUEyV6zwgm5MNZluXWx9TKIpNR1oFzIXmTnBl0ZS9NMFsiOzDycN1dHt8_08dGRN9N3IHhIshfKSgcdBQbuYctxuE0BAZg5aID65R_7/s1600/P9200123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUpZGcyGjchMlY2qzDDU5wCaPBpSwjwRyD94eWfQUEyV6zwgm5MNZluXWx9TKIpNR1oFzIXmTnBl0ZS9NMFsiOzDycN1dHt8_08dGRN9N3IHhIshfKSgcdBQbuYctxuE0BAZg5aID65R_7/s320/P9200123.JPG" width="278" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Luiz and I get itchy feet if we find ourselves in Niterói
for too long. Our persistent desire is to get out for a bit of wandering every
couple of months, with a nice long vacation at least once a year. Lucky for us
Brazil still offers countless nooks and crannies we have yet to explore, both
right in our back yard as well as across the country. While we have been to scores
of places throughout Brazil, not surprisingly we still harbor an insatiable
desire to see and experience even more.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Our recent getaway was to <a href="http://www.aguasdelindoia.com.br/?lang=EN" target="_blank">Águas de Lindoia</a>, a small town just
about 200 kilometers north of São Paulo, near the state border with Minas
Gerais. The impetus for the trip was to take in two regional flower festivals:
the more famous of which is in Holambra and the other in Atibaia. We also
visited Monte Sião, a tiny town noted for its clothing manufacturer outlet
shops (i.e. really cheap good clothes).</div>
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We signed up with a tour operator for a four day/three night
package excursion which included nearly everything (transportation, hotel, most
meals, event admission tickets, etc.). Note: we do not own a car and car
rentals in Brazil are mind-blowing expensive, so we sometimes join a package
tour for short adventures not easily done by busses on our own. Tagging along
with a package tour is generally hit or miss depending on how your wishes line
up with the established itinerary of the package – and whether or not you share
travel values with the operator. We have a great eco-tourism operator we travel
with and are still working on a great match in the rural or coastal town
adventures department. </div>
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Watch this space for a future post investigating the
positives and negatives of package tours and tour operators. Coming soon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwH8ze323krgb0-gTsTzc4DTB7TCqLRx34aKTakE5h-JyalCvAhJ3OkTqq0NaWR4BWJp_vDeUBZmlNVVHijqVRhRe5ctxVOVrnUYQInzsrKdfX3jkxMans4JDb9gSrr-psGGUMMbvpEtWa/s1600/P9190003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwH8ze323krgb0-gTsTzc4DTB7TCqLRx34aKTakE5h-JyalCvAhJ3OkTqq0NaWR4BWJp_vDeUBZmlNVVHijqVRhRe5ctxVOVrnUYQInzsrKdfX3jkxMans4JDb9gSrr-psGGUMMbvpEtWa/s320/P9190003.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Thursday mid-morning, on the way to our home base in the town
of Águas de Lindoia we passed the largest Catholic basilica in South America:
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_the_National_Shrine_of_Our_Lady_of_Aparecida" target="_blank">the </a><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_the_National_Shrine_of_Our_Lady_of_Aparecida" target="_blank">Basilica of the National Shrine of Our LadyAparecida</a>. The site is dedicated to </span><i><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">Nossa Senhora da Conceição Aparecida</span></i><span style="background-color: white; background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;">, roughly translated as<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span><i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_Aparecida" target="_blank">OurLady of Conception Who Appeared</a>.</i></span> As the story goes, fisherman trying
unsuccessfully to catch sufficient fish to feed a pending governor’s banquet
caught in their net the body portion of a statue of the Virgin Mary. They cast
their net out again and retrieved the head. As you might imagine, the story
continues that thereafter they caught all the fish they required, and then
some, to supply the banquet. Thus the holy spot was pronounced. Pope Francis stopped here recently while visiting Rio.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqgQnUPDUMoxY9ticytveh6SfYy_vEDfqTtEmvzdiF1raIg4UPfIVDkJzhX91H-CqO76F6DENpDJeSTPHiHSdEbNAtZz1dpFCbM2Sw788uHfPJKBdgfKVbdbw3t_vju4inLb3v0hX-raR0/s1600/P9190006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqgQnUPDUMoxY9ticytveh6SfYy_vEDfqTtEmvzdiF1raIg4UPfIVDkJzhX91H-CqO76F6DENpDJeSTPHiHSdEbNAtZz1dpFCbM2Sw788uHfPJKBdgfKVbdbw3t_vju4inLb3v0hX-raR0/s320/P9190006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY16N9egsBLoIKCgXhqqEAhu8cH3uY7wcAcnJ7LT9v4PCFjd-qlozs5Pcf87SejGPJaSzJ1nyGgLmpVnVaX0tmBlsJuEX0BVr9XcBI-5ZocXuFZJOM2GL7NfmcEDqS3OU1YUFVbsMhnLYa/s1600/P9190022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY16N9egsBLoIKCgXhqqEAhu8cH3uY7wcAcnJ7LT9v4PCFjd-qlozs5Pcf87SejGPJaSzJ1nyGgLmpVnVaX0tmBlsJuEX0BVr9XcBI-5ZocXuFZJOM2GL7NfmcEDqS3OU1YUFVbsMhnLYa/s320/P9190022.JPG" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just inside the basilica entrance there was this rather odd image of fishermen realizing success under the watchful eye of what looks to be a voluptuous va-jay-jay. I was confused. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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It is a huge structure. We took an hour or so to check it
out, then returned to the bus and pressed onward.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLGZNzILgr6lQiEFBUfhPTG6_xfTDscs0BxsNqMMfmD_r2zsvTDOEodGM4ONvr-ipZ657Er_c0DZE1oKe43TdTLzyfXR-lByCm2P6zhnp72gV3n8zakyFBw21_tzTcrvSBKMi773I9kdy0/s1600/P9210126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLGZNzILgr6lQiEFBUfhPTG6_xfTDscs0BxsNqMMfmD_r2zsvTDOEodGM4ONvr-ipZ657Er_c0DZE1oKe43TdTLzyfXR-lByCm2P6zhnp72gV3n8zakyFBw21_tzTcrvSBKMi773I9kdy0/s320/P9210126.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.hotelzanon.com.br/" target="_blank">The hotel</a> in Águas de Lindoia was great. Nice room, great
breakfast and dinner, good pool area, etc., but the town itself was a little
sleepy. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9YGbvsmXa7Zvq-DQOjJq4KYMd8hJZD3sggNoHL1rwtcJh5W3331tUFNYufItBrjjIcMb7M9m5RQRfyRtJC55oUckhIuWYAjzKWEkAyfzE2YQzTquGBsHoWbaRailK08Eedguwv40VPJBy/s1600/P9210127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9YGbvsmXa7Zvq-DQOjJq4KYMd8hJZD3sggNoHL1rwtcJh5W3331tUFNYufItBrjjIcMb7M9m5RQRfyRtJC55oUckhIuWYAjzKWEkAyfzE2YQzTquGBsHoWbaRailK08Eedguwv40VPJBy/s320/P9210127.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzczZGt7hhIbIeu8Z6D0IymXZanak7EGDRMCovB4e8QlgtWJz83jynlvugGpwV5Y6bhSiWkiHqfs0C3quwHoPb1Xe86Ljd1qxtX_5yRLuZuWK9nLYxTOUFyguwtUTsUa3jhw4IV7iRk3vT/s1600/P9210128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzczZGt7hhIbIeu8Z6D0IymXZanak7EGDRMCovB4e8QlgtWJz83jynlvugGpwV5Y6bhSiWkiHqfs0C3quwHoPb1Xe86Ljd1qxtX_5yRLuZuWK9nLYxTOUFyguwtUTsUa3jhw4IV7iRk3vT/s320/P9210128.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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We were mostly in Águas de Lindoia because it was centrally located to the other places we planned to visit. There was a nice little park in the center of town, complete with a huge pond (small lake?). Very well kept and peaceful.</div>
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Holambra was hosting the main event: <a href="http://www.expoflora.com.br/" target="_blank">Expoflora 2013</a>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCtsfq5-Jo6Q16SW9BeyF_OnxJN9_4EXFSLwO4267S9Ds3GoWWW38YMwvK-FMtXyPboo52I1fLLnjz_Prtq5xkOQIOjW1qJB-p7HYaE1buXRwwRCkHT7JS673e88Qu3q3YP32jhyuGILzu/s1600/P9200027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCtsfq5-Jo6Q16SW9BeyF_OnxJN9_4EXFSLwO4267S9Ds3GoWWW38YMwvK-FMtXyPboo52I1fLLnjz_Prtq5xkOQIOjW1qJB-p7HYaE1buXRwwRCkHT7JS673e88Qu3q3YP32jhyuGILzu/s320/P9200027.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This
tiny town of somewhere around 11,000 residents, originally populated by Dutch immigrants, sports one traffic light,
a few phaux Holland-type buildings, expansive flower farms in all directions,
and most importantly, the well developed fair grounds where they host the
annual flower festival. Our tour bus joined hundreds of others disgorging
visitors to the festival. We spent a good four or five hours wandering through exhibit
pavilions, watching traditional Dutch dance performances, shopping for
flowering plants and tasting traditional Holland-inspired foods.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8a99D32nNvx9QSDUfgPGd4o8cS_00XxU_L-3kL3gnFzSRGtug8zyOOYhSJKCnOrTFm5Cgn-LY518cAaQV1fAHKszftFs6hCjIV7C0Ri5qsBJsCv5OeSlUegG9HIwQWuOGizWn6mncqOBx/s1600/P9200035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8a99D32nNvx9QSDUfgPGd4o8cS_00XxU_L-3kL3gnFzSRGtug8zyOOYhSJKCnOrTFm5Cgn-LY518cAaQV1fAHKszftFs6hCjIV7C0Ri5qsBJsCv5OeSlUegG9HIwQWuOGizWn6mncqOBx/s320/P9200035.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwB-sM1QSnAu15BFN_SVbyAQA7vQ6HhW7jx6UHp4rcJyQVLiU32Gk_6e_Zm8XQ-Kl5jrHcn50fh1u3ZELr6R6Ak_jnNB0SXJdszVrUJ5uDUWor8-4RydX3SPRgwbLsVvafhyphenhyphenjudHO0gK7y/s1600/P9200059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwB-sM1QSnAu15BFN_SVbyAQA7vQ6HhW7jx6UHp4rcJyQVLiU32Gk_6e_Zm8XQ-Kl5jrHcn50fh1u3ZELr6R6Ak_jnNB0SXJdszVrUJ5uDUWor8-4RydX3SPRgwbLsVvafhyphenhyphenjudHO0gK7y/s320/P9200059.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgEYChQav7m4Drq3N5guLQK_A6HvPy5EJ6W07eiz4zbvHobZ1_F5JTLCPQpu1UP8YJyJsBI9vMWs58uJhck8m_Sk9b_dQ4XWE6OKcKJEVZRAc-qlWE2h215imgUcUEFFA6cIROQqGacbOm/s1600/P9200062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgEYChQav7m4Drq3N5guLQK_A6HvPy5EJ6W07eiz4zbvHobZ1_F5JTLCPQpu1UP8YJyJsBI9vMWs58uJhck8m_Sk9b_dQ4XWE6OKcKJEVZRAc-qlWE2h215imgUcUEFFA6cIROQqGacbOm/s320/P9200062.JPG" width="230" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8iI7qM1lRKTGGRxh_HeOPiTtCX9m6ZcHjiZvkBFnwdNx69uJ1-JUrN1us6yPi4Y7wVK2qJcu_yA9H8esb2feCyRCVR3L6PMT_3E8wrbNecZ_NKlXIReXhX5vi0sLpMucVNsWAl3bEfPx/s1600/P9200085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8iI7qM1lRKTGGRxh_HeOPiTtCX9m6ZcHjiZvkBFnwdNx69uJ1-JUrN1us6yPi4Y7wVK2qJcu_yA9H8esb2feCyRCVR3L6PMT_3E8wrbNecZ_NKlXIReXhX5vi0sLpMucVNsWAl3bEfPx/s320/P9200085.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Overall the flower arrangements were delightful, but dare I
say a bit predictable and commercial. The featured designers who created most
of the designs in the main exhibit area seemed to follow the typical Brazilian
impulse (as we have come to see it over and over) of relying on sheer bulk over
design or creativity. I am posting photos of some of the more creative designs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHaPc5ELpM8l6vP6Huqc2GD8Nds0Q7iz8cbfyRIbBdQxVXgGIgM74Dz2THrKsF8BO8SY0D0PUUDladZ0c6I9v2UUUhabMihoIb_bauv3xzheY6SbYxl0JcErRjn2_sqtVYt48skUgPsxu/s1600/P9200091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHaPc5ELpM8l6vP6Huqc2GD8Nds0Q7iz8cbfyRIbBdQxVXgGIgM74Dz2THrKsF8BO8SY0D0PUUDladZ0c6I9v2UUUhabMihoIb_bauv3xzheY6SbYxl0JcErRjn2_sqtVYt48skUgPsxu/s320/P9200091.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5PIUD6muCklZ0YfTxPKOEjhgbE3l9JD47lufh6hNnQrN1OHIZyvnzrhz5ygHYipRElIlkB0QbcPI1RvzLDT4Z8XKpZRQ0H2weJuHjW6Dv58Uro-cDSulLuBg4e8G73t4hPJOoeHdu7BI/s1600/P9200093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5PIUD6muCklZ0YfTxPKOEjhgbE3l9JD47lufh6hNnQrN1OHIZyvnzrhz5ygHYipRElIlkB0QbcPI1RvzLDT4Z8XKpZRQ0H2weJuHjW6Dv58Uro-cDSulLuBg4e8G73t4hPJOoeHdu7BI/s320/P9200093.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywjX-X3stsx3mnORIYzHzK1bEkpFteqvEQtD1VlAAnHLCHDo0HM1QauUQU9dayglfBoG7JhCVi8u6NuJ9SjdeJCE8QqOy1ijC5knE8pWyeTGAavgMYukXuE8OCUUaPUfGhjfn4rpVoWsK/s1600/P9200103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjywjX-X3stsx3mnORIYzHzK1bEkpFteqvEQtD1VlAAnHLCHDo0HM1QauUQU9dayglfBoG7JhCVi8u6NuJ9SjdeJCE8QqOy1ijC5knE8pWyeTGAavgMYukXuE8OCUUaPUfGhjfn4rpVoWsK/s320/P9200103.JPG" width="229" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOBKJRPoU-YU-GdUierELaZYjvJU-OiwXSXMcRBVX0BHJSp9CxisWJ5SaWRRrVZvW0Y4DDLd-gifpQ5fbTvAAGw0bMOIvnMzXZ-QAJCvvRMfMCtXeQLcCPIdLLiJ5wiVAaa5i-hw7Y9QTo/s1600/P9200105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOBKJRPoU-YU-GdUierELaZYjvJU-OiwXSXMcRBVX0BHJSp9CxisWJ5SaWRRrVZvW0Y4DDLd-gifpQ5fbTvAAGw0bMOIvnMzXZ-QAJCvvRMfMCtXeQLcCPIdLLiJ5wiVAaa5i-hw7Y9QTo/s320/P9200105.JPG" width="221" /></a></div>
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It was fun to shop for live flowering plants, and indeed we
bought quite a few, but the prices were not very discounted. Not really. If you
ever plan a trip with buying plants in mind, be forewarned.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1Fv2eSALHL_9DAqbPwY8kL6o7H2aGkedEqLK9bKtmTUgmVmgOxEMcqwgOwv1QIEimeTUQDfKTzIaCDmHX4YyiVKJpSH978KX2W3qKj7L9dRn8PgJqVCpHUxMthZo6wybVIg48pcef2hA/s1600/P9200111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1Fv2eSALHL_9DAqbPwY8kL6o7H2aGkedEqLK9bKtmTUgmVmgOxEMcqwgOwv1QIEimeTUQDfKTzIaCDmHX4YyiVKJpSH978KX2W3qKj7L9dRn8PgJqVCpHUxMthZo6wybVIg48pcef2hA/s320/P9200111.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3SIibK-yXd3_McvF1uwDX2SwXlltFogRbMdrSl_5fkO33WzuiG4rf5Sv2ZvSuEH6OsrHQjvE3-hV_BwZXvC9OMd1L7YqSiDIMa-QtM2v9Nb8tBgFExOZBkHZyCctwjZKjuR5hJOU6kD7/s1600/P9200122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju3SIibK-yXd3_McvF1uwDX2SwXlltFogRbMdrSl_5fkO33WzuiG4rf5Sv2ZvSuEH6OsrHQjvE3-hV_BwZXvC9OMd1L7YqSiDIMa-QtM2v9Nb8tBgFExOZBkHZyCctwjZKjuR5hJOU6kD7/s320/P9200122.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The end of the day featured a shower of petals.</td></tr>
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The next day we were shuttled off to tiny <a href="http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Si%C3%A3o_(Minas_Gerais)" target="_blank">Monte Sião</a>, just over the state line in Minas Gerais, for some
discount clothing shopping at the dozens of small shops featuring factory direct sales. Good quality stuff, overall. Residents of nearby Campinas would do well
to check out this place for some great value clothes shopping, including a great selection of men's and women's sweaters.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGX6vEtwTHb2OtcqRM57xYN9v8jz_H6Rdi0tJB2oC6ZpP7ZWFLuJiBfY3VbxlckOsBF1fsrYkdwW4K1rQEXgLKQBl34RFDTvEdmGJNZqDuMGZ0sD_QrnDgO4kpjQmeNLfhIZiaEFZKUUDb/s1600/P9210139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGX6vEtwTHb2OtcqRM57xYN9v8jz_H6Rdi0tJB2oC6ZpP7ZWFLuJiBfY3VbxlckOsBF1fsrYkdwW4K1rQEXgLKQBl34RFDTvEdmGJNZqDuMGZ0sD_QrnDgO4kpjQmeNLfhIZiaEFZKUUDb/s320/P9210139.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_tVXio2288yh6lmJrTLAg0PPwIkAqf8-y5Q1gePuSOmlmI5ZKDzllO2cRzXKnfA8YgfZaZTiP_Mz0T8p-4BAZ5nyC7zYjuso7eb7fL_QAZnESrhBbVRlou7z6tkliUy-NGSOr07eB1Y4/s1600/P9210141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_tVXio2288yh6lmJrTLAg0PPwIkAqf8-y5Q1gePuSOmlmI5ZKDzllO2cRzXKnfA8YgfZaZTiP_Mz0T8p-4BAZ5nyC7zYjuso7eb7fL_QAZnESrhBbVRlou7z6tkliUy-NGSOr07eB1Y4/s320/P9210141.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Luiz and I had no desire to go shopping, but alas it was
part of the package. Many people who take these excursions are really into the
shopping bits, so most folks enjoyed themselves. But Luiz and I, plus a few of
the husbands killing time while their wives shopped, wandered off the main
square and found the local artisan cheese shop and stopped for some grilled
fresh blood sausage and beverages at tables right in front of the butcher shop.
That’s more my style. Luiz hated the blood sausage thing, but me and the other
guys really got into tasting it grilled with onions while listening to the
butcher’s grown son describe their family recipe and production procedure. Now
that’s village life at its best in my book.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7mQ1CMpwXVQIs6dWShjqCHnz4yOZjjr-TwMxXDz3m895ABqFa3oDbf27o_NMJEEqyhD7yk6_1MoH4PN9KdYWLs9sbTZzZkJ95NTW5G7ILUbspkD9F-as4LcKuu60tLk73Jxvxu8CkQ-If/s1600/P9210169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7mQ1CMpwXVQIs6dWShjqCHnz4yOZjjr-TwMxXDz3m895ABqFa3oDbf27o_NMJEEqyhD7yk6_1MoH4PN9KdYWLs9sbTZzZkJ95NTW5G7ILUbspkD9F-as4LcKuu60tLk73Jxvxu8CkQ-If/s320/P9210169.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the pool from our room balcony.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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During the second half of the day Luiz and I begged off the
next shopping stop and had the driver drop us back in Águas de Lindoia near our
hotel. We chose the pool and some sun over still more retail entertainment.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnprzuURWZZbam70O2XRTZTskz9o9NmFGxjJBi7mQyTteNpHzZZ4ofUIQ1YYZHpShuflyPv56-e8hpIZ2KRHR1hg0GIjB3WjslWdttIyiAhkuzS21xRgoJGthz9-7Cvds9Ygz3OJo_jZJj/s1600/P9210173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnprzuURWZZbam70O2XRTZTskz9o9NmFGxjJBi7mQyTteNpHzZZ4ofUIQ1YYZHpShuflyPv56-e8hpIZ2KRHR1hg0GIjB3WjslWdttIyiAhkuzS21xRgoJGthz9-7Cvds9Ygz3OJo_jZJj/s320/P9210173.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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We left just after breakfast on Sunday to make our way back
to Rio with an extended stop in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atibaia" target="_blank">Atibaia</a> for their annual Festival of Flowers
and Strawberries. Now this is a local event I can recommend. It seemed much more
organic to the community (not just a tourist thing like in Holambra). The
festival overall and the flower displays in particular where heavily influenced
by Japanese culture. Much more artful than the other event. And the strawberry sweets and treats for sale were irresistible.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgBnMITNLGfENK-G_5mRzshBXV00EZ1wJL1dFVUkEb_9f7ABfHqNlok8dyYfmJ-AV54Lm9njYnianecdgWs8nfZkwlgabV_mpyoZE63MAdtYLPOCFV6RK9llnDe7z7w-K6uqR0hvGFOXkj/s1600/P9220181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgBnMITNLGfENK-G_5mRzshBXV00EZ1wJL1dFVUkEb_9f7ABfHqNlok8dyYfmJ-AV54Lm9njYnianecdgWs8nfZkwlgabV_mpyoZE63MAdtYLPOCFV6RK9llnDe7z7w-K6uqR0hvGFOXkj/s320/P9220181.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-iZofUY9litxleYUYegT1lklK4ju-EJ8IZVt31ALrFjATBcrPMQq0Dn39Jh6g_XgYhgprPOz8VafHnHS8_B6s1G-hEOAsVB0U3wup3eZrqlwung4sKtu7kJtl2Z6mXhrdVDGZpcAhbnBK/s1600/P9220185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-iZofUY9litxleYUYegT1lklK4ju-EJ8IZVt31ALrFjATBcrPMQq0Dn39Jh6g_XgYhgprPOz8VafHnHS8_B6s1G-hEOAsVB0U3wup3eZrqlwung4sKtu7kJtl2Z6mXhrdVDGZpcAhbnBK/s320/P9220185.JPG" width="203" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfuOK_djqHqwZCc8lB4Kw7ZujQ-mJhgZLF3arJFcM0YY9pUAdCI9_C7woS3cB61nfNxhxcICHaZnuPrelKhmiHwr-U_Ecc_k2nbu3sC38yvGdimX6TUpiAZVS_uBtHH5LdZtezty_61tj/s1600/P9220202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfuOK_djqHqwZCc8lB4Kw7ZujQ-mJhgZLF3arJFcM0YY9pUAdCI9_C7woS3cB61nfNxhxcICHaZnuPrelKhmiHwr-U_Ecc_k2nbu3sC38yvGdimX6TUpiAZVS_uBtHH5LdZtezty_61tj/s320/P9220202.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE8DhwU7cPJjdq6h85jeJBnmJvLgwfygYHY8QWHcLRZDAfQNyuueyQ_gIivTqevulZm1ergCwgoEAPozQZsikFJ7-eINGmDi89oXh2orhcQB49hleGTTI_lhRT0KCbeg-7aTGJyHlBzhB/s1600/P9220211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZE8DhwU7cPJjdq6h85jeJBnmJvLgwfygYHY8QWHcLRZDAfQNyuueyQ_gIivTqevulZm1ergCwgoEAPozQZsikFJ7-eINGmDi89oXh2orhcQB49hleGTTI_lhRT0KCbeg-7aTGJyHlBzhB/s320/P9220211.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhvuUH9u1VsQi-FHvBY6ORslrHpEFGoAKNwdrYEig-fOABIEZ3MH3j26rGeuvwYw9ja-WvD_xaCLYPxInRJDwS_H5YAXCrVMtjYW9J45747KMy7bi1Pbv6mT-9Hwfeli7qvKlsDxr7CDZ9/s1600/P9220215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhvuUH9u1VsQi-FHvBY6ORslrHpEFGoAKNwdrYEig-fOABIEZ3MH3j26rGeuvwYw9ja-WvD_xaCLYPxInRJDwS_H5YAXCrVMtjYW9J45747KMy7bi1Pbv6mT-9Hwfeli7qvKlsDxr7CDZ9/s320/P9220215.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW36vabIgABxUqK9CqYsyLAoV11pyr0mzZFTkS6Sq1qSSHDj4BvLcaTddZtYz6H6ocjQVKgBxp4c9SdQWQ-gmvRDMVAdx9htyjBQ0phtEDP82E1n-7rgySsGcPIQsWxG-M19Z1uxixctdc/s1600/P9220216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW36vabIgABxUqK9CqYsyLAoV11pyr0mzZFTkS6Sq1qSSHDj4BvLcaTddZtYz6H6ocjQVKgBxp4c9SdQWQ-gmvRDMVAdx9htyjBQ0phtEDP82E1n-7rgySsGcPIQsWxG-M19Z1uxixctdc/s320/P9220216.JPG" width="234" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnMPh107RvBt0Z-Cdop7QTO2CD1vWxOnBY2_fuqiV3GtWL3RNtWMlTllguNsaVZH9eSInnYfDIauaZhQCSoA2hHyaWD4Apozx4t7IV5K6BT2z4m0kK352RXrmyz9buWiHnOYz7ivj5pVee/s1600/P9220197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnMPh107RvBt0Z-Cdop7QTO2CD1vWxOnBY2_fuqiV3GtWL3RNtWMlTllguNsaVZH9eSInnYfDIauaZhQCSoA2hHyaWD4Apozx4t7IV5K6BT2z4m0kK352RXrmyz9buWiHnOYz7ivj5pVee/s320/P9220197.JPG" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was somebody's amazing Lady Slipper orchid. Beautiful! </td></tr>
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Many of the flowering plants on display were provided by
residents showing off their green thumb handiwork. You could really feel the
sense of community and pride. And the plants on sale were WAY cheaper than
similar items in Holambra. Garden shoppers should definitely check out this
event for any purchases. There was also a mid-size sale of local handicrafts.
Pottery, soaps, embroidered items, candles, the usual stuff, was included. We
picked up a jar of homemade, sugar-free, strawberry preserves and a super cute pair of chickens made from small gourds perfect for –
somewhere – in our apartment. <span style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></div>
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Once back home, in the days that followed, Luiz set to
sprucing up his little flower and herb garden in our kitchen window. Life is
good again. Now Luiz sets his sights for a six day trip next month to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porto_Seguro" target="_blank">PortoSeguro</a> in southern Bahia. He’ll be traveling with his mother for some needed
time away.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4yT6VBxi8vJpW-IfmnaOIfmW-YwB90GiNaKGavIb-JT4Hyo0YEaR_AJuarSHwF5XP3htY35g2hVJz4Mafs5kvZ0pIZL1ihivcBsq5NFG1FgsqyNddb4fQw0-xld-fGu6JtN0k99ecqN1M/s1600/P9240222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4yT6VBxi8vJpW-IfmnaOIfmW-YwB90GiNaKGavIb-JT4Hyo0YEaR_AJuarSHwF5XP3htY35g2hVJz4Mafs5kvZ0pIZL1ihivcBsq5NFG1FgsqyNddb4fQw0-xld-fGu6JtN0k99ecqN1M/s320/P9240222.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are about half of what we bought.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhvwN8v1ZNYnex-7uBpnwgnwMCJ2qImeTvN_mRsiU6SU9WLNrZK2oizxHQkN5WO5lNJ0gv2zw5hBOBziE0X5DsiZz4R18mVweG4ixBpw4Y48v5JRhxmOiTvL7UX13cdsVc_lUe_qPGObw/s1600/P9250002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhvwN8v1ZNYnex-7uBpnwgnwMCJ2qImeTvN_mRsiU6SU9WLNrZK2oizxHQkN5WO5lNJ0gv2zw5hBOBziE0X5DsiZz4R18mVweG4ixBpw4Y48v5JRhxmOiTvL7UX13cdsVc_lUe_qPGObw/s320/P9250002.JPG" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our kitchen window garden.</td></tr>
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Jimhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14003236423048071844noreply@blogger.com1