Qualidade de Vida

Carnaval in Rio

2012-02-18T18:30:00.000-02:00

Carnaval is here. Blocos (block parties) are in full force - everywhere, several a day. Virtually all independent buisiness activity has come to a halt. It´s a long weekend of partying and excess.

Luiz will be parading with the São Clemente school of samba on Monday, the day we go to the Sambadromo to watch the 7 hours or so of fantastic parades. I wanted to post a picture of his fantasia (costume) but somehow Picasa is not uploading the photos from our camera.

(Gonna have Zozó buy us a new Canon point and shoot camera when she goes to NYC in a few weeks.)

Luiz is super excited to be parading in the newly expanded Sambadromo (although the news is reporting that there are a lot of kinks in the new sections: stuff not completed, construction debry still laying around, leaking bathrooms -- you get the picture).

There is an expression in Portuguse for when things are done half-ass. It is "nas coxos" which literally translates to "between the legs." It usually means that things got finished, but not really to the right quality. Or, that things LOOK right, but are not really right. Folks found a way to get it done - but it was not right.

The construction of the expanded Sambadromo fits this picture. I´m sure they will be up to snuff for next year. (Fingers crossed.)

We predicted this problem and bought tickets in the older section of the Sambadromo (where it has always been clean, safe and efficient).

Anyway - Luiz is very excited. We will spend all of Monday night watching the spectacle from the stands with about 15 of our favorite friends, and then come home after sunrise to sleep, sleep, sleep.

Ah Carnaval...

Beer in Brazil

2012-02-11T12:38:00.001-02:00

Beer in Brazil is super cold (almost - and sometimes- icing) and by international standards, it is very light in flavor. For US American readers - think Miller Light.

It´s like drinking cold water while at the beach (with a bit of a buzz over time).

Frankly, I prefer beer with a bit more flavor. Not too strong - but at least a beer flavor along the way.

It is comforting to me to see that boutique breweries are on the rise. Sign me up for more flavorful beers - even at higher prices. Not for the beach, but maybe for home BBQ parties.

Don´t get me wrong, I love the light, nearly frozen beer over four hours on the beach. But at home with friends - a little more flavor may be in order.

Here is an article the looks at this a bit more.

What type of beer do your prefer?

Qualidade de Vida!

2012-02-08T17:33:00.000-02:00

We live asimple life. We choose to. Luiz will be 60 years old this year, Me: 52. Wedeliberately traded in our run-around world in San Francisco for ago-to-the-beach world here in Niterói.

It was aconscious choice.

For us,now, less is more.

We livewithout an iPhone, an iPad, a Kindle and yearly international travel. But wealso live without stress, 70 hour work weeks and bank-busting car and healthinsurance payments.

Our focushas changed. And so have we

We may nothave all the financial options (or the consumer options) we once had – but wedon´t miss them. Meet me at the beach. I will tell you about our new life.

Focus on the positive

2012-02-07T22:18:00.000-02:00

OK, OK, so those of us expats who live here are sometimes frustrated. But I think the secret to making it through is to stay focused on the positive. I love living here - but it is not without it´s disadvantages...

Let´s look at the good side:

Brazilians LOVE their children. For better or worse, kids rule.

Coconut milk makes everything taste wonderful.

Extended families heal all boo boos.

While you may spend too much time in a bank line, you will certainly make a new friend in the person next to you.

The commercial competition between Cacau Show and Kopenhagen benefits all of us!

Traffic sucks, but when you ride the bus you can put it all aside.

Traditions open your eyes to a totally new world.

Some foods and flavors are not imaginable until you are served them by your "aunt".

The beach is not a place -- it is a culture.

Expats insist on the best - and try to find it no matter what. (Share your secrets.)

Tell me your secrets...

Globeleza, an only-in-Brazil Carnaval phenom

2012-01-31T18:51:00.001-02:00

Each year the television network Globo features a body-painted naked beauty in commercials running up to Carnaval. This 30 second spot runs at all hours of the morning, noon and night. Only-in-Brazil!

Favelas in Rio and some context

2012-01-29T08:49:00.001-02:00

Favelas in our community and throughout Rio and indeed across Brazil pose a difficult challenge to government, which simplly does not know how to address this permanent underclass situation, or perhaps chooses not to address the problem/suffering/poverty.

Many so-called middle class Brazilians and the more affluent generally look down their noses at the residents of favelas and often characterize the communities as crime ridden and violent.

When I first proposed to my family here that I wanted to go to the Rocinha favela community to see how I might be able to bring my 30 years of nonprofit community service experience to bear, my MIL went through the roof. She was sure I would be shot dead upon entering the neighborhood. She was quite literally blinded by her preconceptions. I was not deterred.

Several years ago Luiz and I traveled to several Greek islands, where the neighborhoods' spacial layouts were remarkably simmilar to the cramped reality of Rio's favelas. But there the communities had been developed and supported and indeed turned into tourist meccas. Tomato - Tomäto.

Here is a good article, translated on the very fine blog Rio real that explores the cultural vibrancy in Rio's favela communities. Check it out. And bookmark Rio real for future reference. Thank you Julia Michaels for your dedicated work.

Ticket for sale sale for canaval in Rio

2012-01-28T20:36:00.000-02:00

OK - we have one ticket left for Carnaval. Monday, Sector three, R$250. It will be a great night -- and if you want to join our group ---cool. The price seems to be 1/3 the price of professional vedors.

Tell your friends.

Man it's hot out there

2012-01-25T17:17:00.001-02:00

We have five rooms in our apartment, plus the bathroom: the living room, the bedroom, the office, the kitchen and the utility room (laundry, etc.)

The unfortunate configuration is that our bedroom is in the front of the apartment, facing the street. So first, it is noisy. We hear the garbage guys coming through at 1:00 a.m. and we hear the water truck delivering water to the restaurant across the street at 7:00 a.m.

Also - importantly - the summer sun shines on the front of our apartment. That means the bricks, cement and marble heat up all day and keep our bedroom oven hot well into the early hours. But we have our fan.

What is remarkable is the significant difference in temperature during a hot day from room to room.

The bedroom is rough, the living room is nearly unbearable, even with the fan on full force. The kitchen is intollerable - and the utility room. Lucky for me, the office is the coolest place in the apartment and I have a ceiling fan.

When Luiz can no longer stand the heat of the living room - in front of the TV - he joins me in the office. The bedroom, while having the bed - good for naps - is just really hot. Even with the fan blasting.

Ultimately it is the bathroom, with the shower, that provides relief. But I must add that, as with most Brazilian residences, our water is sourced from a tank on the roof. So when it is a terribly hot day, the water in the tank gets heated up to a pretty hot temperature. So there is really no cold water. But the natural process of water coolingly evaporating from your skin saves the day.

I feel a little bit captive in my office on super hot days -- but then, we often take to the beach for relief. (Luiz recently took a nap on the kitchen tile floor to cool down.)

But I will take it over shoveling snow ANY DAY.

Blocos during Carnaval

2012-01-20T15:02:00.001-02:00

OMG - how could I have posted that last post without mentioning the BLOCOS that happen all over the city in the run-up and even after the big Carnaval parade in the Sambadromo!?

Street parties that celebrate the glee of Carnaval have been on the resurgence for many years. Partying in the streets is on the rise in Rio during Carnaval.

This list will blow you away regarding how many street parties there are. Caution: do not print it out. It is 66 pages long!

I have a lot of advice about which ones are cool or duds - but let me just say (as a gay man) that the Banda de Ipanema bloco has lost its luster. This used to be a famous gay bloco - but now it is way too straight and practically unrecognizable as a gay event. No offense to my straight companieros - but this is not a gay scene...

You have been warned.

Rio Carnaval - how to

2012-01-20T14:12:00.000-02:00

There's nothing like Carnaval to get your juices flowing.

Just getting tickets is a feat in itself. Like a Lady GaGa concert, the tickets for the whole event sell out in minutes. We worked two phones on re-dial and were able to score 16 tickets. Yes!

But getting tickets is just the start of the adventure. Now you have to navigate Rio streets, parking, subway, walking - whatever. The streets near the Sambadromo are PACKED with vendors offering everyting from beer, to food, to Johnnie Walker shots, to hot dogs, to ice.

If you go to Carnaval in the Sambadromo (and you are not in a luxury box) then come prepared. Bring your food and drink. You will be there for at least 8 hours.

The Sambadromo is clean and safe - so there is no inconvenience or danger involved. But the food for sale inside the stadium is "Bob's" - which is a lousy McDonald's knock off. And it is always cold. Vendors walk around selling drinks (ice tea, soda, beer) but the drinks are usually warm. Urgh!

The best approach is to be self-sufficient. Bring your sandwiches, birng your drinks, bring LOTS of ice. Oh - and bring a rain coat. It always rains...

It is general seating, so you have to arrive early and stake out your territory. Hold firm!

We love it. Our group is usually about 12 people. What a party!

This year we have a few extra tickets. Let me know if you want any.

Ode to the ceiling fan

2012-01-15T15:45:00.000-02:00

We don't use air conditioning, even though our reality is 90 degree heat during the day and 80 degree heat during the night. Simple ceiling fans keep us cooled enough to go on.

Granted, the fans are on nearly 24 hours a day. But the cost difference, and the ambient temperature more natural, we prefer the fans. We have a ceiling fan in the living room, the bedroom and the office. Only the kitchen does not have a fan. Although I will bring in a stand alone occilating fan on the worst of days when I have to cook.

In the early days I never understood why my in-laws would not turn on the overhead fan when the temperature was so punishing. They were 70 years used to this reality. I was new to the heat and 70 pounds overweight -- so it was nearly unbearable to me.

Now I live in the land of ceiling fans (and am quite thinner). A little breeze and a lot of heat -- it all works out.

Nights are spent under the fan (which we have set to vent UP rather than blow down) is perfect for a good night's sleep. Although I change the sheets frequently b/c of the sweat.

Moving air. Simple moving air. That seems to get us there. We are not living in a climate controlled environment. All is well. Life is good. (And it is HOT!)

Thank you ceiling fans!

Breast implants and public policy

2012-01-13T09:43:00.000-02:00

Note I refrained from posting some of the outrageous images that come up when you Google breast implants.

I simply adore the social conscience exhibited by the Brazilian government. OK, so they are not perfect, but some decisions are so right-on.

In this case, silicone breast implants by a now-defunct French company have been seen to be crappy - specifically, they burst. Ouch. Danger.

So the government has ordered insurance companies and the public health system to cover the cost of replacements.

NEVER in the USA.

A bit more here.

Call me sour grapes

2012-01-11T17:55:00.000-02:00

OK - so it has no relation to the post -- but are they not the cutest things you have ever seen!!?

I love luxury as much as the next guy (OK, maybe less...). But how much austentatiousness do you need to feel comfortable? The gap between the rich and the poor in Brazil is alarming.

I'm sticking with us regular folks.

To make my point - check this out. Who affords THAT house!? Follow the link.

Rio Carnaval tickets for sale - they sold out in 11 minutes

2012-01-10T09:49:00.001-02:00

Luiz and I had our game plan. We had our phones pre-programmed for direct redial for the sector we were trying to get tickets for. All of our friends were coordinating when and where we would view Carnaval this year.

All work stopped at businesses at 9:00 while employees dialed the numbers for Carnaval tickets, hoping to hit the lottery.

We were a part of the frenzy. We worked two phones. As usual, I came up empty... But my super lucky husband hit it rich twice! So we will have a free Carnaval this year - and will sell the rest of the tickets to cover our costs and pad our pockets.

Let me know if you need a ticket.

So-called Favela Tour in Rocinha with friends

2012-01-10T08:22:00.001-02:00

I know this image has been used on other blog posts - but it is just too cool not to use again!

I try not to miss an opportunity to crow about my friend Zezinho. He's a terrific, enthusiastic, heartfelt champion for his favela community, Rocinha. He is a proud guide, taking foreigners on walks through his neighborhood, showing the normalness and beauty of his community.

We, just yesterday, went for a good long walk through the community. Zezinho is determined to give good stats and hard evidence of the hard-working and hopeful nature of community residents. He presents a view of favela communities so contrary to the stereotypes.

My favorite part of the day (aside from visiting Zezinho's apartment) was lunch at a fantastic comida por kilo restaurant. They had great salmon steaks. OK, there were spots with amazing views... but give me a good lunch (on the cheap) any day.

For a culturally appropriate and non-exploitative visit to a favela community -- contact Zezinho. Go here.

Octopus for dinner

2012-01-06T13:55:00.000-02:00

Octopus - makaing it happen

My memories of octopus are of rubbery sea food that made me very frustrated on the sea shore. Chew and chew and chew.

But I have changed my mind. I'm a new believer. When cooked right, octopus is tender and fabulous.

I had Luiz buy me an octopus (way too small) and I experimented, to good result.

Then I bought three good sized octupi and made a wonderful Italian feast!

Tomato sauce and pasta - with octopus - what could go wrong?

It was terrific! Yum, yum, yum.

Sign me up for octopus any day.

Great news regarding Luiz's cancer situation

2012-01-03T07:36:00.000-02:00

Luiz has been living with Chronic Lymphcytic Leukemia for a little more than four years. The ~~good~~ great news is that his condition has progressed in a nearly statistically insignificant amount since his diagnosis. (Although that is not to say the stress and anxiety has not been significant.)

The really good news is that medical technology/research in this area has been evolving by leaps and bounds. We are thrilled.

Check out this informative and hopeful interview with a physician in the field.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mx8cM47s3yQ

Book review: Midwives

2011-12-30T08:20:00.000-02:00

Before moving to Brazil I went on a shopping spree picking out hundreds of books (in English) I thought I might enjoy reading once I was in the land of all things Portuguese. Some have been duds, but the book I just finished was wonderful.

Midwives, by Chris Bohjalian (1997, Vintage Books/Random House) is a powerful tale richly rendered. It is more than ten years old, and was an Oprah pick, so perhaps you have read it. If not, used copies are available for one cent on Amazon, so even with international shipping, the price is right. Or, you can have my copy. I will add it to my list at the online expat lending library.

From the back cover: On an icy winter night in an isolated house in rural Vermont, a seasoned midwife named Sibyl Danforth takes desperate measures to save a baby's life. She performes an emergency cesarean section on a mother she believes has died of stroke. But what if Sibyl's patient wasn't dead and Sibyl inadvertently killed her?

Here is a brief review from Amazon's page:
In Midwives, Chris Bohjalian chronicles the events leading up to the trial of Sibyl Danforth, a respected midwife in the small Vermont town of Reddington, on charges of manslaughter. It quickly becomes evident, however, that Sibyl is not the only one on trial--the prosecuting attorney and the state's medical community are all anxious to use this tragedy as ammunition against midwifery in general; this particular midwife, after all, an ex-hippie who still evokes the best of the flower-power generation, is something of an anachronism in 1981. Through it all, Sibyl, her husband, Rand, and their teenage daughter, Connie, attempt to keep their family intact, but the stress of the trial--and Sibyl's growing closeness to her lawyer--puts pressure on both marriage and family. Bohjalian takes readers through the intricacies of childbirth and the law, and by the end of Sibyl Danforth's trial, it's difficult to decide which was more harrowing--the tragic delivery or its legal aftermath.

Christmas update from Niterói, Brazil

2011-12-26T19:04:00.000-02:00

[Note - I am still getting used to my new -- BRAZILIAN/PORTUGUESE - computer. I can't yet get everything to work, including photos -- sorry -- In fact - I am using two keyboards to spell everything correctly...] Anyway...

--------

Once again Christmas was a joyous celebration among so-called blood family and chosen family.

Luiz and I live in a family with Zozó, his mother. She lives just a few doors down the road from us and Luiz is in contact with her at least twice a day. Naturally we love and adore her and would be spending Christmas in her company.

It has become a bit of a routine to join Zozó’s long-time neighbors in Itaipú and their extended family for a traditional Christmas Eve feast, celebration and gift exchange. The family is a delightful mix of seniors, moms and dads and children - about 20 people in all. Plus us.

Donna Conceição and Senhor Sergio throw one heck of a party.

This year there was cold Brahma beer on tap (very chic!) and the turkey was an unbelievable 12 kilograms (26.5 pounds) -- Note: our 7 kg (15 pound) turkey for thanksgiving was $R45 -- goddess bless donna Conceição - she must have spent at least $R130 on that turkey!. Plus there was the traditional salted cod/potato/creamy cheese bake (her bacalhão choice was SO flavorful, and surely top shelf!), flaked smoked chicken salad, creamy potato salad, sweet ham, roasted chestnuts, plus three fabulous desserts: a parfait (creamy layered wonderfulness), a multi-layered moist cake decorated like a Yule Log, and Rabanada (a super sweet think French Toast sort of deal sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon - then drizzled with a flavorful sugar sauce). We enjoyed a chic feast!

I had about one tablespoon of each... but it was fabulous.

The family is wonderful, gathering from up to 600 miles afar. The kids are great. And lucky for me, two of the daughters are English teachers, so when my Portuguese fell short, they could bridge the gap.

We played the “Secret Santa” game and each gave a gift to another randomly pulled from a hat one month before.

Quite fun.

I must add that Luiz’s gift to his 7 year old Secret Santa recipient was a radio controlled racing car. The boy went wild. Unfortunately Luiz neglected to provide the 6 AA batteries needed to make it all work. The boy was not deterred. He reminded his mother and grandmother that all the silly Christmas Santa toys bleeping and flashing all over the house were powered by such batteries. So he got them to harvest those batteries for his new race car toy.

Brilliant!

The next morning he was in the street making magic happen - with most of the adults outside cheering him on. Luiz hit a home run with his gift!

Christmas day Luiz, Zozó and I enjoyed a quiet morning opening gifts and appreciating each other. Very nice.

My Skype account continues to block me - so I was not able to touch base with my family in the US (and apparently they did not use their Skype accounts to call me) -- plus they are not on Facebook - so I hope they know I love them and wish I could have spoken with them.

Christmas is very different here for this Detroit/San Francisco boy. Here in Brazil the vibe is totally different (as I still do not visit shopping malls - I take my experience from the streets). The holiday could quite literally come and go without notice, except for the family connection.

But I am grateful for those in my life who support me and keep me moving forward, in spite of my demons.

For me, New Years has a stronger pull.

Summer in Niterói

2011-12-21T17:10:00.000-02:00

Summer is here. Normally summer is a terrifically hot season that really takes its toll. Nothing but beach and sleeping under a fan gets you through it. Plus three cold showers a day.

We’ll see this year. Global “weirding” has everything standing on its head.

But today we definitely have some seriously hot weather.

The good news is that our laundry dries quite quickly. The bad news is that we feel like we have to stay inside from 1:00 - 4:00 to avoid the stupid-hot temperature outside. But the beach is great from 9:00 am 'til noon.

The silver lining of global weirding is the extra rain -- it really cools things down. But it can often flood the streets and cause problems for people living in low areas or on unstable soil. Luckily we are three floors up in a cement neighborhood.

Summer - I prefer it to winter. Unfortunately sunscreen is expensive.

Meet us at the beach.

Luiz health update

2011-12-18T13:06:00.001-02:00

I’m always nervous when we go to Luiz’ appointments at the National Cancer Institute. How will the blood tests come out? Will we get good results? Is he maintaining his slow-and-steady situation --- or will he move into the more aggressive stage of his disease?

In this case I can attest to his “slow and steady” progression.

At his last appointment we can report that he is at about (statistically) the same place he was one year ago. That is GOOD news. Luiz has to worry about progression when it starts to be very aggressive. That is NOT the case. His blood count numbers are very stable.

I could not be happier, nor him.

Shout out to Brazilian health care

2011-12-14T14:04:00.000-02:00

I’m going to say it again: I admire the Brazilian health care system. OK - what I’m really referring to is the system when you have supplemental private insurance.

Regular readers know that I had gastric bypass surgery back in July.

Since then I have had to do a great number of follow up tests to be sure all is going well.

Significantly, Luiz and I live in the epicenter of doctor’s offices and diagnostic labs. We can literally get any test done within a four block radius. All our doctors: cardiologist, endocrinologist, dental surgeon, dermatologist, physical therapist, allergist, and of course the fat-to-skinny surgeon have offices within a ten minute walk.

Everything is covered by the insurance we have. No co-pays, no limits - the doctor takes the hit (low reimbursements) not us.

Recently I had to have a CT scan, multiple blood tests, and a 24 hour blood pressure mapping. Done. Done. Done. Everything was done within two days. No waiting. No delay. And I paid nothing (aside from my affordable monthly insurance payment).

The worst of it is waiting in the waiting room for a long-delayed appointment (my fat-to-skinny surgeon guy is ALWAYS one or two hours late for appointments -- thank the goddess for iPods!). Waiting in Brazil is most certainly NOT the exception to the rule.

But the best of it is the kind and personal conversations you have with doctors who seem to care about you and who want to know more about your life than just your situational illness.

I could not be happier. Easy, quick (to set appointments - not to see the physician), efficient, great quality, and by USA standards - ridiculously cheap.

It must be said that the free public system has its problems. - especially in rural areas. But we have a dear friend, with no extra insurance, that was recently diagnosed with prostate cancer and he was in for surgery within a week. It seems if your case is dire, you get immediate attention. There are of course horror stories of those with non-emergency situations that had to wait...

For me, the lesson is that if a community - a country - commits itself to providing universal health care -- it is possible. Even if they have scarce resources. There are ways to make it work. Take note US America.

[Did I mention that 100% of Luiz’s cancer treatment/medication (totally separate from our insurance) is free?] ‘nuf said.

You know you are in Brazil when

2011-12-08T13:43:00.001-02:00

You know you are in Brazil when the worker refurbishing the four story building across the street is barefoot. He´s hanging by a rope on a makeshift wooden seat from which he has a bucket of plaster attached which he is using to patch the walls - and has a pried-open 10L can of paint tied by rope to his wooden seat through the lid of the can from which he alternates some painting activity.

I watched him attach his "secure suspension system" by taking out several roof tiles and locating a roof beam onto which he tied his humble rope.

He did not seem confident, at first, about his mechanics. I cold barely watch!

But apparently he is an experienced, fearless, acrobat construction worker. He´s been up there all day and doing fine.

I hope he is getting paid a decent wage... (fat chance)

Amazing and historic speach by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton on LGBT rights - wow!

2011-12-07T18:37:00.001-02:00

Amazing - increduible - historic - and unbelieveable comments by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton in front of the United Nations. We are making progress!

Listen to these remarks!

Brazil seems to be thriving

2011-12-06T09:58:00.001-02:00

I´m not an economist - nor do I claim to be one on TV or the internet. But I have to say that Brazilians seem to be spending $$ in record numbers.

Luiz and I recently went to the mall to buy a computer. The place was PACKED! Not just the electronics\home appliances stores we visited - but the entire mall.

Wallets seemed to be open. People seemed to be buying. Sales people were definitely busy.

It did not look like a poor country to me. Brazil has changed.

Make no mistake - there are a gazillion poor people in Brazil - and consumer goods are rediculously expensive. But a trip to the mall had me thinking about everything upsidedown.

Who are these people with all this money? Why is this place so packed?

We don´t live in the richest of cities (although Niterói is consistently voted "Best Quality of Life" in Rio de Janeiro state...) Is it the credit bubble? Are people really able to buy refrigerators? I´m looking over my shoulder waiting for the other shoe to drop.

But there is home\apartment construction everywhere. There are municipal improvements happening at the library, the old city hall, the ferry terminal, road expansions. Looks like improvement to me...

Unless and until I hear a pop in a bubble, I´m going to hold on to the belief that things are getting better for many Brazilians.

Am I dillusional? What have you noticed?

Down but not out

2011-12-04T09:14:00.001-02:00

I´m back --- sorry for the delay. But we had an unwanted intruder enter our apartment at 4:30 in the morning who stoled my computer, two cell phones, our digital camera, and my wallet. Plus he took Luiz´s backpack and my canvas bag to carry out the loot.

All this while Luiz and I were sleeping in the next room.

This post is a bit off key for my blog. I have a rule not to go negative when it comes to living and thriving in Brazil. But in this case it feels a bit hollow NOT to report on what just happenend.

Not to make too fine a point, this was a crime of opportunity, for sure. For whatever reason, our neighboring building left their gate open, which led to the rear area of the building. (They later said they had gotten a delivery of natural gas tanks for the building and failed to secure the gate. Very unusual.) It is an easy jump from their back area to ours. This thief saw the opportunity.

Luiz and I live on the third floor, and as such have thought little about barring our windows for security. Who would climb so high to steal? Well, now we know it is possible. Bars will be installed this week. The now-famous thief is being referred to as "Spider Man" in the press. He is a repeat offender.

It is shaking to be intruded upon (especially while you are asleep) and it is a drag to have several thousand Reais of goods stolen - that will need to be replaced.

Thank the gods there was no violence.

So now we have contracted a man to construct simple but effective bars over our rear windows, I have bought a new computer (with a painfully small screen), cell phones will be replaced with "credits" from previous expenditures, and we will wait for a friend to visit from the USA to have them bring a new digital camera (which can be more than three times the price here).

I am a big Brazil booster. I do not like to report the negative. But forgive me -- this time it cut close to the bone.

We are on the mend. All is fine. Things are getting back to normal.

And a final advantage is that I spent a lot more time in the past few days reading a terrific novel than I did watching an old TV show on the computer...

I found peanut butter!

2011-11-28T08:34:00.001-02:00

A hah! I found it! Peanut butter. Actual real peanut butter.Not the sickening sweet whipped purée sugar/peanut/soy oil mixture readilyavailable and made for kids. Actual peanut butter. (OK, maybe a bit too whippedand light, but nearly the real deal.)

“Tia Mona Pasta de Amendoim” – crocante to boot!

Just R$6 for a whopping 160 grams (that’s about a cup). AhBrazil…

Glad to have found it – but I think I’ll keep making my ownin the food processor.

Observations on Thanksgiving in Brazil

2011-11-25T07:37:00.001-02:00

I have survived another faux Thanksgiving in Brazil. Barely.

Here corn bread is a sweet cake you prepare wrapped in thehusks of the corn and is served for dessert. (Wonderful!) Back in the US wejust spread some butter on the savory, but a bit sweet, bread and enjoy it during the meal.

Here turkey is BBQed (like everything else) bit by bit – OK,maybe occasionally oven roasted, but when I brined the turkey for 8 hours andthen slowly baked it to a delicious and juicy result I took a lot of flack alongthe way from non-understanding back seat cooks.

Here green beans are chopped and sliced into tiny bits, andserved with an egg cooked on top of the lot. (Which is delicious, btw.) My longcut beans with a simple butter sauce cooked al dente did not go over well (“theyare raw!”).

Here squash is to be paired with dried meat. (Alsodelicious, btw.) But my roasted squash stuffed with an apple, walnut, cheesedressing was seen, cautiously, as curious – although enjoyed. Everything needsan explanation/justification.

Pies, overall, are not really a dessert item in Brazil. It’smore of a cake culture here. But anything sweet and delicious goes over well.

Who am I kidding? I am a foreigner – remember? Don’t forget.People here are not like people from where I come from. Duh. I must stopthinking that all things translate – even when those things are cherishedtraditions/foods/delicious.

Someday I will adapt. And I always appreciate my husband forhis bridge building abilities.

Clay pots in Brazil

2011-11-23T09:43:00.001-02:00

Luiz and his tourism class went toGuarapari in Espirito Santo last weekend. That’s several hours north of Rioalong the coast, just short of Victoria, the capital of Espirito Santo.

Thisregion is famous for a lot of things, but for us old-school guys, it’s the claypots that catch our attention. The pots are made from black clay and mangrovetree sap washed and molded. After dried in the open air and put through abonfire, sap is applied a few additional times to blacken the clay and to makeit water resistant.

I lovethis kind of cooking. Thirteen years ago Luiz won my heart when he cooked aseafood moqueca for me, in a clay pot, on one of our first dates. SOLD!

On thistrip he brought back two pots: one highly decorated and large enough for a goodmoqueca, and the other just the right size for rice or a delicious pirão. Complete with their wire serving bases.

To me –food is best when cooked in clay or stone. Plus it goes from the stove/oven tothe table in the same pot, keeping it hot.

One more reason to love Brazil.

Brazil's tribes compete in Indigenous Games

2011-11-14T11:39:00.001-02:00

A Pataxo Indian attends the Indigenous Games

This article and all the photos originally appeared here.

A Rikbaktsa Indian couple attend the Indigenous Games

PORTO NACIONAL, Brazil (AP) - More than 1,000 Indians are celebrating Brazil's indigenous cultures with a weeklong sports competition in the northern city of Porto Nacional.

Tembe Indians attend the Indigenous Games

A Tapirape Indian aims a spear as he competes in the Indigenous Games

Brazil's federal Indian agency that cosponsors the games says they are one of the biggest indigenous sporting events in the Americas.

A young Rikbaktsa Indian woman attends the Indigenous Games

Thirty-eight ethnic groups from across the vast country are competing in 10 events that include archery, football, swimming, spear throwing and canoeing.

Bariri, left, and Xerente Indians compete in a canoe race on the Tocantins River during the Indigenous Games

Xerente and Gaviao Indians race carrying tree trunks during the Indigenous Games

Many of the competitors are using their traditional dress and markings.

A Paresin Indian youth holds a soccer ball during the Indigenous Games

A Nhambikwara Indian competes in the archery event at the Indigenous Games

For MANY more photos, visit the original posting at KVAL.com

Cultural extravaganza

2011-11-06T14:54:00.005-02:00

November, this year, brings with it a huge cultural festivalin Niterói. Food, music, dance, theater, expositions in museums – LOTS ofstuff. And it is all free.

It is the “Niterói encountering South America” festival.

This morning we went to see the Bolivian folklore dancepresentation in the park – Campo São Bento.

Great fun.

From here – throughout the month, there are a myriad ofevents (all free) that will bring South American cultures to life in our backyard.

Nice!

Eating shark for lunch

2011-11-04T09:40:00.000-02:00

photo credit noted in the image - thank you

I’m gearing up for a lunch of young shark and vegetables.Locals would add black beans and rice to the plate, but I don’t generally eatbeans and rice EVERY day. And now that I have a surgically-created tiny stomachI have a good excuse to beg off the typical belly-filling (and nutritious) everpresent feijão e arroz.

Learning the various local fish varieties and how to cook them hasbeen an adventure. Growing up in Michigan I had little exposure to fresh fish,outside of perch and trout – with the occasional farmed salmon. In most casesthe dishes we ate were breaded and frozen, and they filled the house with aputrid fishy smell as they cooked in a hot oven. My dad was not a fan. (Momtried to make it work, especially on Fridays.)

Then I moved to the west coast: San Francisco. The fish wasabundant and fresh. It was there that I learned some of the secrets toincredible seafood cooking. Yum! My favorite restaurants were always seafoodrestaurants.

Now I find myself not on the Pacific coast, but on theAtlantic coast, and not in cold waters, but in more temperate waters. It’s a wholenew world: different fish, different approaches to preparation, and differenttastes among people as to what is delicious.

It’s been an adventure. I love to visit the municipal fishmarket and try something new. The guys animating their stands are always happyto share tips on how best to prepare the fish (they mostly say just fry it up) –I think they should bring their wives or mothers to work once a month so folkslike me could get REAL cooking advice.

Today I am cooking cação (so-called “smooth hound” – or just,young shark). This is a delicious white meat fish, not too firm and not toobland, no bones. I’m cooking a steak, asopposed to a fillet.

After checking in with a few of my mother/grandmotherEnglish students about how they would prepare it, I’m going to make a simpleonion, garlic, peppers mix, then add coconut milk. I’ll put the cação steak ina small baking dish, cover it with my veg/milk sauce, and bake it, covered, ina hot oven for 30 minutes.

I think I’m going to add ¼ teaspoon of dendê oil, just for funand flavor.

The hill I really want to climb is octopus. Some say the secretto a tender octopus is a good bit of time in the pressure cooker. Others say if you freeze the octopus, thencook it, it will come out tender. Stay tuned.

I posted the recipe over on the Cooking in Brazil Blog - check it out here.

Spin Rocinha fundraising, final report

2011-11-02T10:23:00.001-02:00

Thank you to everyone who participated in our efforts tosupport the new Spin Rocinha DJ school serving at-risk youth in the Rocinhafavela community in Rio. Our efforts really paid off. We raised US$535.00!That’s R$910,00! Whoo hoo!

The funds we raised for the Rocinha Media School’s SpinRocinha program will go a long way toward strengthening their ability to taketheir program out into the community to expose more youth to the empoweringnature of music and music production. Thanks again!

Special thanks to fellow bloggers who cross posted about thefundraising campaign and those who posted about it on their Facebook page. Itreally made a difference. You can be really proud of yourselves for lending ahand.

If you had the intention of making a donation but needed towait for your next paycheck, or it just slipped your mind, you can still followthrough. The Rocinha Media School has adonations page where you can make your contribution. Just follow this link tomake it happen.

It means a lot to me when my friends step up and participatein my community activities (they are used to my asking for money – believe me! haha) – thank you!

I’ll be on the prowl for next year’s campaign recipient. Ifyou have any specific suggestions (in Rio or Niterói), send me an email.

If you have any questions about the Spin Rocinha fundraising campaign, let me know.

Abraços e mil beijos.

Gay marriage in Brazil, an update

2011-10-27T10:12:00.000-02:00

On Tuesday, October 25th, the Supreme Court of Brazil upheld the same-sex marriage of two women. This was after two lower courts rejected their petition to convert their civil union to a legal marriage. The court has previously, unanimously, held that same-sex civil unions are to be afforded a great number of important rights such as community property, inheritance, health insurance, property rights, alimony, tax benefits and adoption.

So you would think this would settle the matter. Not quite. In Brazil State courts are not bound to follow the rulings from the Supreme Court.

What this means is that if a same-sex couple is in a registered civil union (so-called “stable relationship”) they can petition the State court to have it converted into a legal marriage (which affords additional privileges, protections and responsibilities). If the State court then rejects this petition the couple can appeal their way to the Supreme court where it will be granted.

So we still can’t get married “the easy way” like our straight counterparts, but this was an important step in the right direction.

Ultimately, what is needed is for the legislature to pass a law that provides for the legal marriages of same-sex couples. That’s not such an easy feat given the powerful influence of religious institutions among legislators. But we’ll get there.

In the meantime, there is a path available to legal marriage.

NOTE: be sure to read the clarification from Denis in the comments section. He corrects me that it was not the Brazilian Supreme Court that ruled, but rather a superior appeals body one level below the Supreme Court. Thanks Denis.

Pianist Fabio Martino

2011-10-26T11:07:00.000-02:00

And now for something completely different.

Here's Brazilian pianist Fabio Martino playing with the São Paulo State Symphonic Orchestra. Enjoy!

Viva Brazil!

2011-10-16T12:30:00.001-02:00

I love Brazil. I love Brazilians and their zest for life.And I love Brazilian parties.

Yesterday Luiz and I went to the 75^th birthdayparty of the husband of a classmate of his. (I said 80 years on Facebook, butthat was in error.) Luiz, with his instantly-endearing personality, and his voluptuouscolleague Elvira were asked to be Masters of Ceremonies for the party. Theysure knew how to work a microphone.

The party was at a salon de festa in Rio and it was a non-stoppleasure extravaganza.

We arrived at 12:30, the stated time the party was to start.So, of course, we were about an hour early… Even the hostess and her husband,the person of honor, were not even there yet. The musicians were doing theirsound check and the waiters had not yet moved into working mode. But good forus, we could choose the perfect table (directly in front of a big oscillatingfan).

The birthday boy (retired military brass) had asked people not to bringpresents, but rather a kilogram of dried foods which he would then donate to alocal charity. Nice touch, I thought. (By the end of the evening, the tablewith the food donations nearly collapsed from the weight of the items broughtby his friends.)

So, as is typical for a Brazilian party of this type, thewaiters began to serve beer and sodas, plus passed appetizers. I nursed a beer,but I was really holding out for the fine scotch (here referred to as whisky)that was surely to flow once the man himself arrived.

As the room filled with more than 200 people, the guest ofhonor and his wife arrived. The photographer and videographer got to work.Absolutely every person was greeted, kissed or hugged, and appreciated forbeing present by the star couple. Live music filled the background.

Before long we enjoyed the first of three performances by a professionaldancer and her very cute partner. Beautiful.

Luiz and Elvira, along with the musicians, kept the party ontrack for a couple hours until it came time to open the buffet.

The food was plentiful and delicious, although I had just abite or two. The children at our table (we had pulled three tables together)loved the raviolis and cheese sauce.

The prideful couple shared a featured dance and invitedeveryone to join them on the dance floor. We’re talking real dancing here –none of this hugging with a swaying back and forth from one foot to the other.Dancing.

The scotch was flowing by now…

After another dance performance two totally decked outpastistas came in to the sounds of a pounding samba refrain. We’re talking big,beautiful women wearing only a few strings of clothing and a lot of feathers –shaking their booties! Luiz commented: “There’snothing like some feathers, some glitter and a naked butt to shake up a party.”The birthday boy paraded around with his two new best friends, taking pictureswith all his military buddies.

Much later, after the third dance performance we sang happybirthday, the cake was cut, and finally, take-away party favors weredistributed (sweets in beautiful boxes), the signal that it was polite to leavenow, if you so desired.

We stayed a bit longer. Luiz and Elvira had theirresponsibilities with the microphone.

I enjoyed meeting Elvira’s young daughter Adriana, an obstetricianand gynecologist. She had great stories to tell and her iPhone was filled withphotos of the many babies she has delivered (she said she delivers one or twoevery day). Wonderful energy.

Finally we said our goodbyes and thank yous to the hostessand the man of the hour. Great party.

Oh – one more thing - in attendance, sitting at the tablenext to us, was a 106 year old man. Very sharp. People kept coming to his tableand paying respect and offering their admiration. Also, there was a (unrelated)103 year old woman at the party – who looked 80 (as if I know what that “looks”like). A moment was taken to honor both of these individuals. Very touching.

All in all – what a great party and celebration of life!Viva Brazil!

The making of a cachaça commercial

2011-10-16T09:30:00.000-02:00

This is a fun 2 1/2 minutes.

Supporting at-risk youth in Rocinha -- an update

2011-10-11T08:53:00.001-03:00

Reporting back on our effort to raise funds for SpinRocinha at the Rocinha Media School, the professional DJ school for at-risk youth in Rocinha – I have a few bits of news.

We have raised half of our goal of US$900 to support the school in buying an iPad to advance their efforts in so many ways. So we still need your help.

I can also tell you about a mother/son pair that has enrolled. Marcia and her 13 year old son Arthur have enrolled to realize a shared dream to be music makers. Marcia has long valued her experience living in Rocinha and focuses on giving every opportunity she can to Arthur. She believes they both have music in their veins – and so the DJ school is a natural fit for their aspirations for the future. Marcia says she does not need money to be rich, but to make music with her son is a dream come true.

Please consider making a contribution to this valuable social program in Rocinha. You can do that here.

Also – if you are a blogger – please consider posting about this effort on your blog with links back here, or placing the dynamic button located in the right column of this blog on your blog. I have provided the code you need.

And you can always share this or the original post on Facebook and Orkut.

The kids need your help. And we completely appreciate your support.

Thanks!

Gay Pride Parade 2011 in Rio de Janeiro

2011-10-10T09:46:00.002-03:00

Luiz and I had originally planned to host a brunch on Sunday morning to gather our gay and lesbian friends and then all go over to Copacabana for the big parade (well, more like a street party). But to our frustration many of our queer friends (now all in our 50s) are not into these sorts of public events and big crowds (SO old school!)

Our friend Carlos in Fort Lauderdale, FL helped to forward some very cool rainbow chains (thank you Carlos!) which we were going to deck out our friends with – but alas, it was just Luiz and I – so we decided to take the beads with us to the event and sell them on the street. They were a hit! In less than two hours we had sold 34 of the 36 chains we had (keeping two for ourselves). We got R$10 a piece for them.

Anyway, the Parade was a gas, the weather was perfect AND we were able to meet up with Rachel and her band of merrymakers.

There were easily 11 trio-electricos, many outrageous drag queens, LOTS of straight people – and my favorite: yummy eye candy.

As is often our plan, Luiz and I stopped by the Chinese restaurant along Avenida Atlântica, east of the Copacabana Palace Hotel for dinner. (Friends in San Francisco, close your eyes, the price for a simple Hunan Chicken dish with fried rice, and two sodas: R$50.00 – OUCH – and they charged us R$1.00 for the Styrofoam box for taking home the leftovers!)

On a more serious note – the theme of the many LGBT pride events across Brazil is to abolish homophobia, both through cultural campaigns and via the legislative process. Much progress has been made, and of course there is more to do. But the level of political discourse at these events is impressive.

Supporting at-risk youth in Rio's Rocinha favela community

2011-10-03T12:52:00.006-03:00

There was a time when opportunities were scarce in Rio’s Rocinha favela community. Actually, those times persist. Rocinha is the largest favela in Rio, with more than 300,000 poor residents clinging to the steep hillsides between Zona Sul and Barra de Tijuca. While living conditions have improved for some of its residents over the past 30 years, opportunities for its youth have barely budged.

But people like Zezinho and Lea are making a dent in those troubles. They are creating real opportunities for at-risk youth in the community. They are planting seeds that will surely grow into life-changing opportunities for young residents.

Let me tell you about a new, grass roots, social program and its benefits – and how you can be a part of the change that is happening. I am asking for your help.

Rocinha Media School is a new non-profit organization in Rocinha that focuses its efforts on at-risk youth and includes a program: Spin Rocinha, which teaches professional DJ skills so young people can acquire the pride and ability to take on a profession – without having to resort to street economics to survive. You can learn much more about the Rocinha Media School here.

The training is top notch. The equipment is top notch. The mentoring is all you could ask for. And the students are thrilled. There has been immediate interest among residents to participate.

Using state of the art equipment plus local and international DJs, Spin Rocinha attracted 10 students (full capacity) to its first class who are committed to learning the art of DJing and to lifting their eyes to the possibilities of the future. Music – listening to music, playing music, spinning music – it is a powerful personal and cultural force in this community. It is a lifeline.

And of course we need your help as we toss that lifeline to at-risk youth in the community. While much of the equipment has been donated, there is more needed. The school is looking to buy an iPad. They need US$900. Without getting too far into the weeds, the iPad is a big step forward in technology because:

1. It means they can be mobile - it does what a big clunky unit (2 x cdjs and a mixer) does so they can take the classes out to the youth in the community.

2. It is where the technology is evolving to.

3. It acts as an MPC (which is another tool that DJs use) - and also replaces a big clunky piece of equipment that way.

4. It allows them to upload and store all the media (music) on it so it also helps that they don't have to lug thousands of cds around.

5. It plugs straight into self-powered speakers or an amp eliminating the need for a big mixer.

6. They won't have to worry about secure space to store large equipment.

7. It runs off batteries so they won't need to worry about accessing power, which can be a problem when needing to find a place with reliable power and the several outlets needed with all the other equipment that needs to be plugged in.

8. Mobility allows them to play gigs out in the public without any worries about transportation or set up.

So if we REALLY want to make a tremendous impact/contribution to their efforts, this is the opportunity. This is the piece of equipment that will move them out of the studio (where they have the clunky – ‘though state of the art – DJ equipment), into the community, where the youth can practice and show off their newly learned skills. (Receiving the praise from others to spur them on.)

It’s often difficult to know how one can help address the endemic problems of inequality, lack of opportunity and youth hopelessness in Rio’s favela communities. If you want to help make a real difference in the lives of some of these youth, this is an opportunity.

Rocinha Media School is a local and internationally supported organization that could use your help.
You can make a financial contribution by visiting the donate page on Rocinha Media School’s website.

Please, join me in supporting at-risk youth looking for opportunities to change their lives. Click on the link, make a donation, and make a difference. If not us, then who? We can do this.

Thank you!

[Note to fellow bloggers and folks on Facebook – please consider doing us the great favor of linking to this post or reposting this appeal AND (very important) offering your personal endorsement of me as an honest guy, and Rocinha as a place that needs our support. There is power in numbers. The young people in Rocinha need our help. This is a chance to do an act of kindness that may change a life – and likely save a life.]

Here is a brief video (in Portuguese) of Spin Rocinha's premiere class.

An interview with me at BlogExpat

2011-10-03T07:15:00.001-03:00

Many of you have read this all before... but the folks over at BlogExpat wanted to hear my story - so here's the interview just published today.

Rio's Theatro Municipal

2011-09-27T09:00:00.000-03:00

This magnificent building has recently been given a complete make over. The restoration is a beautiful success. You can take a guided tour of the restored facility Tuesday through Saturday at several times during the day. More info here.

Romeo and Juliet, the ballet, is coming to the theater in October. Good seats are too expensive for our blood, but I understand there is one day a week? month? when tickets are just R$1. Can anybody tell me when that is? I have been mining their website, but I cant find it...

Making new friends in Brazil

2011-09-23T10:47:00.002-03:00

Brazilians are rightfully known for being wonderfully open and endearing people who smile and chat with you after just a moments introduction.

The checkout lady at the grocery store knows your name and always has nice things to say. People in line at the bank will talk to you about just about anything. The person sitting next to you on the bus or ferry is always open for a brief conversation.

This was certainly NOT my experience in San Francisco back in the USA. Luiz once squatted low and said hello to a small child at a bus stop while waiting for the bus and the child's mother yanked the child away and said sternly to Luiz, “Don’t talk to my child!”

Worlds apart.

The flip side seems to be the rather insular social groups here. It’s pretty hard to break into new social circles, unless you have found a friend in common. A good friend in common.

Lucky for us we have returned to Luiz’s home town where he had a gazillion childhood friends, all of whom welcome him back and have embraced me as one of their own. But branching out from there has proven pretty challenging.

Luiz’s time in his tourism classes in Rio has provided a great opportunity for him to meet new people. He’s so charming that it seems everyone loves him and we now get invitations to parties and events with his fellow students. I think we are breaking out of the old group a bit.

My success has come largely through blogger friends and teachers and students I have met in the English world.

But it has not been easy. I am grateful for the base of friends we have from Luiz’s past. But I also aspire to broader horizons.

I love bananas

2011-09-16T16:54:00.000-03:00

All the varieties here are spoiling me!

Making cheese again

2011-09-16T08:58:00.000-03:00

I’m trying to get focused again on my cheese making adventure. Really. But now I just don’t have an appetite.

Before it was too cold to try and make cheese. Then I had gastric bypass surgery – which took away my desire to eat (and in some cases my ability to eat).

But now I think I can get back at it. I can’t eat a lot of it – but the project still has appeal.

I have the equipment – so let’s see if I can make a go of it. It’s warmer outside now.

Luiz will appreciate my success. Stay tuned.

Going shopping every day

2011-09-15T12:06:00.000-03:00

Do you want to know why I go shopping every day? It's because if I try to store something for any length of time the bugs get to it.

Pasta, beans, flour, corn meal -- all of it. It has a rediculously short shelf life before the bugs take over - and start laying their eggs.

I need a HUGE refrigerator to keep everything safe!

If you are thinking of being an entrepreneur in Brazil -- invent a refrigerated spice rack. Trust me.

Today I wanted to make beans - but no. Fouled by the bugs. Have to go buy another bag. And wash out the plastic container I had the never-opened, sealed bag of beans stored in. Sigh.

Oh well - at least there are sweet fresh mangoes...

Qualidade de Vida

2011-09-14T09:50:00.000-03:00

I’m sorry – can I say these words? I am so glad I am not living in the United States of America.

Seriously - let’s look at the facts.

I earn a living by working about 15 hours a week.

I drink fresh fruit juice almost every day (name your fruit – I drink it – for cheap).

The Brazilian government is not chomping at the bit to invade another country.

Family is everything here. More than vacation or ice cream.

Health care for all citizens is mandated in the constitution.

Gay couples have the right to partner and get the subsequent benefits.

The beaches are perfect, and the people at the beaches blow you away.

OK – so taxes are high, but don’t sweat the small things.

Our housing bubble has not burst yet.

You can eat chicken hearts at almost every restaurant.

Men in Speedos look better than men in surfer shorts.

There are two huge specialty chocolate company chains competing for your loyalty.

Mango ice cream.

I have not worn laced up shoes (except sneakers) in three years.

Which Sunday is today?

Qualidade de vida, baby!

Cachaça Day in Brazil

2011-09-14T09:08:00.003-03:00

My people are on the move. Cachaça tourism... nice. This was first published here. Check it out.

Sep.13, 2011
Cachaça Day in Brazil

When the first sugarcane plants were introduced in Brazil by Portuguese colonizers in the early 16th century, brought from Madeira Island, the creation of a genuinely Brazilian drink would soon follow.

Yet, though the origins of cachaça date back to the Sugarcane Cycle (16th to 18th century) and manufacturing processes taking place at the oldest engenhos, or sugarcane plantations and mills; though its production is intrinsically intertwined with Brazil history and the formation of a national identity, cachaça tourism has only recently begun to take shape as a trend in Brazil travel.

The potential for development is enormous - according to IBRAC, the Brazilian Cachaça Institute (www.ibrac.net), Brazil has 40,000 cachaça producers, 99% of them micro-companies. Many of those are located in the same regions where African and Brazil-born slaves first distilled the drink at sugar mills - and developed a product which, tragically, would be used in triangular trade.

A deeper contact with Brazil's past, particularly its black history, and journeys through scenic destinations, such as Paraty, the Paraiba River Valley or the colonial towns of Minas Gerais, are some of the pluses of cachaça tourism besides the discovery of the drink's variegated flavors and textures.

Superb regional culinary is often part of the experience; some of the distilleries are on farms which also have restaurants, and most cachaçarias specialize in local dishes as well.

In view of the importance of cachaça in Brazil culture and economy - for example, in the generation of 600,000 jobs and exports to over 50 countries - IBRAC initiated a campaign to make September 13 National Cachaça Day. A bill sponsored by a Santa Catarina representative awaits voting in the Chamber of Deputies.

September 13 was chosen because on that day in 1661, an uprising put an end to a Portuguese royal decree which prohibited the production of the drink in the colony.

I'm proud of Brazil

2011-09-13T15:17:00.001-03:00

Here is a brief news article about a national campaign to rid Brazil of deadly weaponry. It's not the first time the government has given incentives for citizens to retire their weapons - and to receive amnesty if you turn in your guns.

A couple years ago there was a federal referendum to make gun ownership illegal. But, what do you know, the National Rifle Association from the USA swooped in and poured millions into the campaign against the initiative. The people voted it down.

But in the end - the attitude here is MILES away from the knee-jerk pro-gun attitude that seems so prevalent in the States. Still, we have a ways to go. But it's great to see that so many people responded to the first wave of the campaign.

-------------------

Brazil destroys 22,000 arms in major campaign

RIO DE JANEIRO, Sept. 12 (Xinhua) -- The Brazilian Justice Ministry said Monday it had successfully concluded the first phase of an ambitious nationwide disarmament campaign with the collection and destruction of over 22,200 firearms.

The ministry said in a statement that the number of weapons collected between May 6 and Sept. 9 was 20 times higher than that in the first four months of the year, prior to the start of the government's disarmament campaign.

The weapons collected by the Federal Police were 10,828 revolvers and 3,734 heavy firearms, including 302 rifles, 2,562 shotguns, 716 carbines and seven machine guns.

The government attributed the success of the campaign to the policy that allowed people to turn in arms anonymously.

"The anonymity made it possible for the owners of those weapons to deliver them without fear of punishment," Justice Minister Jose Eduardo Cardozo told a press conference.

In addition to offering owners of illegal weapons anonymity, the government also paid 100 to 300 reais (60 to 180 U.S. dollars) for each weapon delivered.

The Justice Ministry has spent two million reais (1.17 million U.S. dollars) so far in order to retract weapons from the public domain.

The state of Sao Paulo, which has been known for one of the highest per-capita murder rates in the world for years, topped the list by collecting 5,349 arms, followed by 2,641 weapons in Rio Grande do Sul, 2,602 in Rio de Janeiro, 1,776 in Pernambuco and 1,572 in Minas Gerais.

Over 570,000 weapons have been collected and destroyed by the Brazilian authorities between 2004 and 2008 through a number of programs, while another 500,000 were handed over since 2008 when the government started promoting disarmament more aggressively.

Cardozo said the main goal of the campaign was to "promote a culture of peace in Brazil."

The second phase of the campaign was launched Monday, with a new series of ads featured on television, radio, the Internet, newspapers and outdoor posters. This phase will last until Dec. 31, this year.

Remembering 9-11

2011-09-10T10:13:00.000-03:00

I have already ranted on Facebook about my impatience with those who want to create a big drama on this 10 year anniversay.

In this case I am reposting a video I first saw on Luasol's Nova Capitulo de Minha Vida blog.

Thank you Jane.

Remember to Love.

Miss Gay Brazil 2011

2011-09-07T14:46:00.004-03:00

Great night last night. Luiz and I went to the Miss Gay Brazil pageant hosted at the Unidos da Tijuca samba school quadra. LOADS of queer guys.

I felt like the paparazzi, catching all the grrlz in their finest. But they LOVE the camera! Hahaha

The show was great. I especially loved the intermission (between the regional costume portion and the evening gown portion of the pageant) that drummed the hell out of the place and featured super cute near naked boyz dancing and gesticulating all up in our face. You go boyz! (I was too entranced to remember to take photos.)

Here’s a little look-see into the event from the photos I took..

Oh – and somehow we didn’t leave until nearly 5:00 a.m. Plus the bus taking us home was PACKED and we had to stand. At nearly 5:00 in the morning! Brazilians love their parties.

Oh - and I should mention that Miss Santa Catarina took home the honor.

Hiking in Floresta da Tijuca

2011-09-05T15:12:00.001-03:00

You may be aware that the city of Rio has the largest green space park within its borders of any city in the world. Rio is a huge city – AND it has a HUGE park within its borders.

Some people shy away from the park because they think it is dangerous to walk through. But the park is an immense, inviting natural space that calls out to adventurers in the city and beyond.

There are more than 3,300 hectares (8,155 acres; 12.75 square miles) of forest with waterfalls, trails, animals, birds and insects.

As the story is told – back in the day the entire area was deforested and coffee was planted up and over the hills. Then after everyone saw the ecological havoc they had created, in 1857 approximately 100,000 seedlings were planted – over the next 13 years, to try and restore the forest. Slowly things came back to a “natural” state.

Then later, in 1874, for about another ten years, there was another planting campaign.

Now, Floresta da Tijuca acts as the lungs of Rio and attracts countless outdoor enthusiasts to see the waterfalls, the vistas and to simply smell the fresh air.

And that’s exactly what we did on Sunday. Luiz and I joined a guided group, lead by a fellow student of Luiz’s, to visit two waterfalls and climb to heights I thought not possible to get views and inspiration from the forest.

So beautiful.

Margarita pizza

2011-09-03T09:58:00.000-03:00

Poor Luiz - he attends classes in Rio four days a week. He has to wake up at 5:20 a.m. to get to class on time. I do my part to keep the house/clothes clean and have dinner ready when the time is right. The bulk of my work is generally after 5:00 p.m.

He is enjoying his academic adventure - new friends, new information.

Fridays are fun. No rules. This friday I took a nap and left a message on my white board (which I have for English classes). When Luiz got home he knew the plan -- and joined me in nap taking.

Lucky us. Delicious dinner.

Changing of women's roles in Brazil

2011-09-01T07:44:00.001-03:00

This has been noted elsewhere, but it is worth a post. Check it out. A recent PBS NewsHour piece. The full article in National Geographic is here.

Watch the full episode. See more PBS NewsHour.

Catholics in Brazil

2011-08-29T12:01:00.002-03:00

Can't we all just get along?

I try not to be too political on this blog. I know it will alienate some readers. But some issues (LGBT rights, human rights, women’s rights, freedom, etc.) get me going enough that I break my soft rule and make a post anyway.

This time it is about the Catholics. Sigh.

I was raised a Catholic. Being a devoted Catholic was encouraged in my family. My mother is a devoted Catholic, as is her life partner. But about 35 years ago I gave up Catholicism for Lent. ;-) Never to look back.

So here in Brazil, the oft-touted largest Catholic nation in the world (note to world: most people don’t actually believe or practice), it is news that the Catholic population is shrinking faster than people have thought or believed. In 2003, 74% of the Brazilian population identified as Catholic. In 2009 it was only 68%. [sad face…]

"That is a strong transformation rate. Changes that take place in 100 years are now taking place within ten. If this drop of one in 100 Catholics each year continues, in 20 years, less than half of the population will be Catholic," said Marcelo Neri, the head of Getulio Vargas Foundation. [sad face…]

Brazil remains the most Catholic country in the world, with 130 million adherents, but this is the first time in 140 years that less than 70 percent of the population is Catholic. [sad face…]

As a Gay Man looking for equality (not to mention women who need medical freedom or trans people who just need to be SEEN!) I say – happy us – that the so-called Christian church, the Catholics, are waning in power.

There – I said it.

Here is the source of the quotes.

Baking in season

2011-08-29T10:32:00.000-03:00

It’s not exactly pineapple season, but the strawberries are coming in by the truckload. So I sought inspiration.

Virginia suggested strawberry-pineapple jam. I know she has a slow cooker, so I was a bit worried about whether I could cook down the fruit without one, without burning them. But I do have a fine pan for such things. I bet I could do it.

More importantly, how do you say “pectin” in Portuguese?

Then Luiz asserted we should just have a sweet strawberry-pineapple tart instead. (He loves my pie crust, so this is a predictable request.)

Personally, I don’t think I have ever tasted the strawberry-pineapple combination. I was worried about the acid content. But Virginia assured me the acidity cooks out…

So I went for the tart.

Basically you make a sweet crust, slice up the fruit and mix it with a bit of sugar (I used Splenda, Luiz is diabetic), cook the fruit down a bit to get it all soft and to infuse the sugar/sweetener, then make up a package of vanilla pudding. Mix the fruit and pudding, pour it into your crust, then refrigerate until set.

Then slice it up and eat it with late night television.

Sorry I don't have a pic of the final product. It was more tasty than beautiful... but it was certainly fabulous.

Niterói Gay Pride and Rio without Homophobia

2011-08-22T15:15:00.007-03:00

The Niterói Gay Pride Parade was last night. Half of me loved the street party that started at about 5:00 p.m. and continued until about midnight. The other half of me was over the noise and revelry after we were home and trying to sleep at 11:00 p.m.

The huge street party, closing traffic on the avenue along Praia de Icaraí, had traffic rerouted to the street just below our bedroom window. Drivers were not happy and let us know with their horns (Brazilian drivers love to use their horns).

I love a good party. And we went to participate in this party. But us older guys go home sooner than the young folks that dominate these sorts of events. (Very cute folks, I might add.) I laid in bed for a very long time listening to drunken revelers making their way home under my bedroom window. But goddess bless them – I was there once. It was not a big deal.

Sign me up as pro-Gay Pride Parade in Niterói!

More importantly, the theme was once again “Anti-Homophobia.”

There is a very well-funded campaign by the Rio state government to combat homophobia. Lots of media and collateral print materials.

The campaign is called “Rio without Homophobia.” Nice to see. But as Luiz (in his professional tourism capacity points out) would remind us this is an economic strategy in the build up to the World Cup and the Olympics. It is a tourist publicity campaign.

But that’s OK by me. If you can get hotels to display “Rio sem Homofobia” stickers in their front windows (and on their websites) to try and attract more clients (and actually be less offensive) then I’m all in favor of a legislative or economic campaign that encourages merchants to be less offensive. Call me practical.

I know you cannot legislate tolerance – but if you can educate folks to be less offensive in an effort to see their business grow – well, I’m all for that.

The Rio Sem Homophbia campaign is robust. It was all over the Niterói Gay Pride Parade yesterday. Let’s hope it catches even more traction.

Check out the Rio Sem Homofobia campaign here.

Gay Pride week in Rio

2011-08-20T09:59:00.000-03:00

Note the text in the flag.

This Sunday is the Gay Pride event in Niterói. Luiz has invited a bunch of friends over for a lunchtime party, then we will join the street party in progress, just a few blocks away.

Gay Day in Rio is set for Sunday, October 9th in Copacabana. Mark your calendar. Here is the official program:

Official Program and Events| Rio de Janeiro Gay Pride 2011

Date: October 9, 2011.
Meeting Point : at 1 PM (13:00 hs.)
Posto 6 - Forte de Copacabana / Sofitel Hotel

This year, October is the month of LGBT Pride. Though the march is the most important event, a full week of activities is promoted by the Arco-Iris, the nonprofit organization that organizes the parade.

All dates are yet to be confirmed by Arco-Iris.

The official program of the 16th LGBT Pride Parade in Rio de Janeiro is yet to be released.
Considering last year's calendar, the events for 2011 are most likely to be as follows:

Date: October 4, at 7 PM
Venue: Teatro Carlos Gomes - Centro
Opening show of the 16th. LGBT Pride Parade-Rio 2011

Date: October 4 to 9
Location: Galeria do Centro Cultural Sergio Porto - Humaitá
Exhibition in 2009: "Our history, our strength, our voice: 15 years of LGBT Pride Parade-Rio"

Date: October 7 and 8, 2 PM - 10 PM
Location: Castelinho Flamengo
Movies Shows Metaphors of Diversity

Date: October 8, from 11:30 PM
Local: Cine Ideal - Downtown Rio
Ideal National Pride

Date: October 11 to 4 - 7 PM
Venue: Teatro Gláucio Gil - Copacabana
Self-Portraits - shows Resgate da Cultura Transformista do Rio

Date: October 1 4, 3 PM to 10 PM
Location: Castelinho Flamengo and other sites to confirm

Cycle Arco-Iris Thinking LGBT Citizenship and
State Seminar on AIDS and LGBT Health

Date: October 5 and 6 - 7 PM
Location: Sala Baden Powell - Copacabana
Voices of Diversity - musical show with LGBT singers

Date: October 7 - 9 PM
Local: Cine Ideal - Center
Official Opening Celebration and Party - 15th LGBT Pride Parade Rio - 2011

Date: October 7 - 8 PM
Venue: Teatro João Caetano - Downtown
8th Arco-Iris Awards for Human Rights

Date: October 8, from 10 AM to 10 PM
Location: Terreirão Samba and Centro de Artes Calouste Gulbenkian - Downtown (to be confirmed)
Culture Fair Arco-iris LGBT
Lesbifest - Festival of Culture and Diversity among lesbians and bisexual women

Date: October 8, at 10 PM
Location: Night Club 1140 - Praça Seca - Jacarepaguá
Pre-Parade Party

Date: October 9, 9 AM to 6 PM
Location: Copacabana, Posto 6
Action Pride, Citizenship and Human Rights (stalls and information services for the general population)

Date: October 9, at 1 PM
Location: Copacabana, Posto 6
16th LGBT Pride Parade-Rio 2011

Date: October 9, at 10 PM
Location: Le Boy - Copacabana
Closing Party of the 16th LGBT Pride Parade - Rio 2011

Keep checking here for final details.

New take on a standard Brazilian tune

2011-08-18T09:11:00.000-03:00

I love me some classic Brazilian favorites - the ones everyone sings along to. Here's a different take on an old favorite - on the vibraphone, no less. Wild.

Eating Americana

2011-08-16T11:16:00.001-03:00

From the first moment that I ate Brazilian food I was in love. Better said: Luiz cooked me a fantastic Brazilian meal the first time he invited me over for dinner. And I fell in love.

But there are some dishes I prefer in my "home" version. I posted about so-called "American Lasagna" over on the Cooking in Brazil blog. It's a terrific recipe. Check it out.

Missing US Gay Culture

2011-08-15T10:27:00.000-03:00

I miss talkin’ trash, gay style. Throwin’ some shade; spillin’ some tea; workin’ my chicken neck (which I learned in high school in Detroit).

It’s not for everyone, but, Jonny McGovern is a gay comedian who produces a LONG podcast that is totally US gay, southern California/New York style. Very fun when you are cooking all afternoon.

If you are not hip to gay/lesbian- speak and want to be a voyeur, check it out.

Go to iTunes and search for Gay Pimpin’ with Jonny McGovern.

Love you Jonny!

Father's Day in Brazil

2011-08-14T20:43:00.000-03:00

Today is Father’s Day in Brazil. Today was a day to honor Senior Tonico. We lost him to a heart attack one and a half years ago – on a sidewalk we pass almost daily.

Zozó offered a luncheon at a nearby luncheonette.

It’s not easy to “celebrate” the loss of important family members. But it is good to be together.

You could definitely feel the reverence for fathers in the air. In Brazil it is not hard to celebrate family members.

Wonderful health update for Luiz

2011-08-11T13:32:00.003-03:00

There is ~~good news~~ great news on the treatment front for Chronic Lymphocytic Leukemia (CLL). We care about this because Luiz is a CLL patient.

It has been all over the news, but I have been waiting for our trusted ally Chaya Venkat over at CLL Topics Updates (a top-notch CLL patient information and advocacy blog) to weigh in on the real story. She is brilliant on the subject and loved by many for her tireless advocacy and work translating medical research papers into plain English for the rest of us.

[Go to her blog and GIVE HER A DONATION! Medical conferences are expensive, and happen all over the world. She is a saint. Really.]

I will not pretend to be a medical researcher, but suffice it to say that some folks have figured out how to modify a CLL patient's own T-cells (the little guys who patrol your body and kill the bad cells) then reintroduce them into the patient whereupon they specifically attack and kill the cancer cells.

Preliminary results have been outstanding. So far patients have been in complete remission for 10 months (since shortly after the clinical trial was begun).
This is good news for our Luizinho.

Is this a cure? – no (not proven as such just yet). Is this available now? No, only in clinical trials. Is this a great breakthrough? Very smart people say YES. Are there risks? Yes.

Does this make us happy? YES!

News in the press is here: MSNBC ; Yahoo News ; New York Times ; CBS News

Caetano Veloso and Maria Gadu - Leãozinho

2011-08-10T08:43:00.000-03:00

You know you are in Brazil when

2011-08-08T08:32:00.001-03:00

You know you are in Brazil when the city’s animal control department is rounding up hogs and horses from the streets.

I recently saw this item on Niterói’s municipal website (yes, I read their website). It seems there is an effort afoot to “clean up” the streets of large animals grazing along the edges of neighborhoods. The animals have owners, but the owners let them wander about to feed on grasses, etc.

On several occasions I have been on an urban bus in Central Niterói and have seen huge hogs lumbering about in public squares, presumably eating. The animals typically belong to poorer families living up on the hill that let them loose at night to fend for food. It is a real sight, let me tell you; unexpected. Niterói is a dense urban area – not a rural town.

In the case of this report from the City, seven horses and two pigs were recently rounded up. They will be held on a nearby farm for 10 days awaiting their owner’s arrival to reclaim them (including paying a fee). Then I suppose the owner will have to confirm they have more appropriate plans for the animals in the future.

The campaign to round up “stray” animals is meant to help avoid traffic accidents.

Brazilian models - the bomb

2011-08-07T20:06:00.004-03:00

Rachel forgot to post "Hot Brazilians for Your Friday" so I will fill the gap. Check it out. Go visit the Made in Basil website for all the latest on Brazilian models -- and for more of this guy - go here.

Gay Pride vs "Straight Pride" in São Paulo

2011-08-05T11:42:00.004-03:00

The poor oppressed straight people in São Paulo are asking for a little relief. They want some time to stand in solidarity against the horribly oppressive (and supposedly powerful) LGBT lobby. They have been fighting for a so-called “Straight Pride” day. Poor things.

Like so many other indignant bigots, they want to change the subject from common-place violence against LGBT folks (which is at record levels in Brazil) to the terrible inconvenience of actually discussing diversity and tolerance in a civil society. They are so unhappy about having their “freedom” to impose their ignorance and blatant discrimination (often coded into law) over LGBT folks limited that they are taking to the streets.

And the São Paulo government has just co-signed their tirade, issuing a permit for the “parade”.

The good news is that the LGBT pride parade in São Paulo is the largest in the world, attracting something like 3 million participants every year. I’m pretty confident that, in spite of the news coverage, this effort by small-minded straight folks will not get much traction (even though the so-called Evangelicals are the fastest growing organized religious dogma in the country).

On the flip side - don’t forget that the Niterói Gay Pride March is August 21st and the Rio Dyke March is Sunday, August 28th.

History tells us that justice and freedom will win in the end. I just hope I get to see it. It is tiring to be always pushing back against the bigoted majority…

Slackline at Whale Rock at Piratininga beach

2011-08-04T10:22:00.000-03:00

Slacklines are all the rage. When you go to the beach there are practice lines pulled tight between palm trees all over.

Here's a great video showing this sport taken to a higher level - and at one of our favorite beaches.

Some thoughts on the healthcare system in Brazil

2011-08-02T12:32:00.000-03:00

I have been repeatedly impressed with the “universal healthcare” system here in Brazil. That being said, coming from the US and our/their “get insurance or get screwed” system, it may not take much to impress me. Things here are not a bed of roses, for sure, but there are some important plusses and minuses.

On the plus side is the language in the Brazilian constitution that says (essentially):

Article 6. Education, health, work, leisure, security, social security, protection of motherhood and childhood, and assistance to the destitute, are social rights, as set forth by this Constitution.

Article 196. Health is a right of all and a duty of the State and shall be guaranteed by means of social and economic policies aimed at reducing the risk of illness and other hazards and at the universal and equal access to actions and services for its promotion, protection and recovery.

In short - healthcare is a citizen's right and it is the duty of the government to provide it.

The healthcare matrix here in Brazil is a complicated mix of public and private providers. Only about 25% of Brazilians have private health insurance, the rest access public clinics and hospitals (which vary wildly in terms of quality and efficiency depending mostly on whether they are in urban or rural areas). More than half of registered nurses and nearly half of doctors are public employees.

The stated principles of the Unified Health System (Sistema Único de Saúde or SUS) are universality, integral care, health promotion, and community participation, with public funds to provide free health care to all Brazilian citizens.

That’s the good news. And for many, many Brazilians it has been very good news. According to this summary article, over the past three decades infant mortality decreased by about 6.3% a year, and life expectancy increased by 10.6 years. Mortality due to infectious disease decreased from 23% of total deaths in 1970 to less than 4% in 2007.

But then there is the bad news. Well, let’s remember that nothing is perfect.

There is a wide gulf in service and efficiency between those with private health insurance, accessing private hospitals, and those going to public facilities. This is certainly not always the case, but in many poorer areas (urban or rural), the conditions at the “hospital” can be alarming.

But I think what I’ve found more disturbing in my reading on this subject is that there is an insidious dynamic at play within the university education system that is broadening the gap between public and private healthcare. No surprise, really, but it’s a bummer to see it studied and articulated.

Capitalism. There it is again, f*cking things up. Early on I saw the irony of the public university system here. It’s free, but only the privileged can access it (with notable exceptions, of course). Competition to get in is fierce and students take expensive preparatory classes to score their best on the entrance exam. No money, no prep course – no high score, no free university. The poor and working class pay to attend private universities.

But that’s not the real problem. The problem seems to be the ethos among the privileged class that financial reward and status are the end goal and working in the public sector is viewed essentially as a lower-paid job with little status. So many educated professionals are self-selecting out of the national healthcare system in favor of the more profitable private system. Many people will tell you that there is a shortage of healthcare providers in the public system.

So we have the ever-corrosive dynamic of private enterprise and personal desire for wealth working against the common good. Nothing too strange about that – but it would be a shame if it erased the benefits gained to date seen with the public healthcare system here in Brazil. I would prefer to see the momentum moving in the other direction.

So tell me – if you can afford it, would you choose to buy private health insurance here in Brazil? Why or why not? While it is cheap by USA standards, it still costs a lot. Is it worth it when you have universal coverage provided by the government? Is it necessary, or just a convenience?

[To view Brazil’s constitution in English, go here. It’s a good read.]

Dyke March in Rio - Mark your calendar

2011-07-30T17:04:00.001-03:00

Mark your calendars – this year’s Dyke March in Rio is scheduled for Sunday, August 28th, in Copacabana.

The annual LGBT Pride March is set for Saturday, September 10th, also in Copacabana.

This video has lesbian and bi women speaking to the newly elected female president insisting on equality.

Come join the action to raise visibility for Lesbians.

Be there or be square.

Oh my sweet Detroit - what happened?

2011-07-28T09:56:00.000-03:00

There is a word in Portuguese that is often mentioned as one without a real equivalent in English: “saudade.” It essentially means longing, or homesickness, or emotional wishing-for, missing.

Sorry to say, I rarely, rarely have saudade for the United States. Sure, I miss my friends, but the country itself? – not so much. Even when Brazil drives me crazy with its high prices, under-educated populace and corrupt elected officials, I still do not pine for the days of living in the United States.

But at times my heart aches for the folks living in places I used to haunt. In this case I am referring to Detroit. I was born in Detroit. I went to school in Detroit (well, a block or two from the border of the City). My first real girlfriend (yes, I had a girlfriend) lived in Detroit. I loved Detroit.

But nowadays I’m sad for Detroit. It has fallen so far. I have saudade for how things used to be.

When my extended family lived in or near Detroit it was the heyday of the auto industry. The Big Three, we would say (GM, Chrysler, Ford). Almost everybody’s parent worked for the auto industry, or some other job supporting the industry. My grandmother used to joke that if she had a dollar for every slice of pie she served to auto workers in the diner she spent her working life in, she would be a millionaire.

But now things are different. Most of that is gone.

My brother and his wife moved to a cute little historic block in Detroit some time ago, bought an old Victorian house and refurbished it (Dan did a fantastic job!). They were one of the star homes on the neighborhood Christmas walking tour. But they saw the writing on the wall, sold the house, and moved to the country.

Now Detroit lays feral – or mostly so. Good luck my friends in Detroit. I know you are all rooting for success.

For a real taste of Detroit today – go take a look at the Sweet Juniper blog.

World Military Games in Rio

2011-07-27T16:30:00.001-03:00

The World Military Games just came and went in Rio. In some ways they were a dress rehearsal for the World Cup and the Olympics; but on a smaller scale. There were thousands of athletes put up in several villages who needed three meals a day and language-specific services throughout their stay.

There were competitions, the use of smaller venues (plus the big Copacabana beach venues) and the simple need to get athletes from one place to another. Athletes who had already placed out of their competitions needed something to do every day while others continued to compete.

Luiz was a volunteer during the games. He was among the volunteers who spoke English – placing him among the more desirable guides. He spent 10 days arriving early and leaving late to facilitate the experience of visiting athletes and their organizers.

Thanks to a friend of ours who is a career military man, we got pairs of tickets to lots of events, including the opening and closing ceremonies.

Since the opening ceremonies conflicted with the Blogger Meet-Up, I just went to the closing ceremonies – with my mother-in-law. It was an adventure. And a beautiful show.

Luiz had a great time working with other volunteers and meeting international athletes. There were lots of cool people eager to discover Rio. He spent long days showing the athletes various parts of the city.

It was a great event. And I hope there were lessons learned. Luiz expressed some frustrations about the overall organization. It would be great to assume these problems were being recorded to help improve the planning for the World Cup and Olympics. One can hope.

Keeping things real in the USA

2011-07-25T14:17:00.001-03:00

Even though I maintain a blog in Brazil, I keep an eye (albeit wearied) on the politics in the USA. In that regard, let’s take a look at the lie that is the Republican’s idea that they are economic conservatives and Democrats are the party of spending. (Barf.)

Just a simple graphic reminder.

The Conservatives/Republicans have a communication machine that feeds ideas into the general public’s mind – but they are lying, based on the facts.
My cardiologist is so happy I live here. If I had to confront this felony of truth and/or stupidity on the TV every day – I would not be as tranquil as I insist on being…

Good luck my US American friends (and I also vote).

You know you are getting used to living in Brazil when:

2011-07-23T09:19:00.000-03:00

You can overhear the television commercial from the next room – and understand what they are talking about.

You know when the aipim (yucca) is not going to be tender and you banter with the vendor to pick out (and show to you) better quality roots.

You feel less inhibited about cutting to the front of the line if you only want to ask a brief question (although this still drives me crazy when others do it!!)

You never, EVER assume the driver in front of you is going to use their turn signal – or if they have it on that it has any connection to their intention to turn or not.

Sipping coconut water with a straw out of a chilled fresh coconut on a hot day is better than (lousy) sex.

You stop bursting into laughter when you see the price of ordinary things (now you nearly burst into tears).

You know when the knife sharpening guy is nearby, where the pots and pans fix-it guy is, where to get your keys copied, which pharmacy has the best price (usually), which beach is your favorite, how much to pay the parking mafia, and when not to return your friend’s call because they were just being cheap to let it ring and then hang up so you would have to pay.

If you eat GLOBO biscoitinhos in traffic you have moved to native status.

Danielle in Niteroí

2011-07-21T15:33:00.001-03:00

Thanks for the long weekend visit, Danielle. It was great to have you here.

We did the Blogger Meet-Up, naturally. But we also toured through Niteroí and went back into Rio several times to visit with Lindsey and Rachel. Fun!

One night we cooked up a fajita extravaganza. Yum!

Come back any time grrl, and next time we hope Alexandre is feeling better and can join us.

Blogger Meet-up in Rio – report back

2011-07-18T09:07:00.000-03:00

Gathering at our point of departure.

Phew – it’s been a great weekend spending time with fellow bloggers. Saturday was our planned event in Rio which attracted a great crowd (many bloggers and their husbands, partners, children, etc.).

Inside the Arco do Tellez.

The Arco do Telles area is PACKED every weeknight for Happy Hour.

It was my intention to arrive early to stake out the meeting area and be a responsible leader. But, the best laid plans… We missed our ferry and given that it was Saturday, the next ferry was 30 minutes later. So by the time we arrived there was already a good group gathered. Thanks to cell phones, everyone was informed of our delay, and some who arrived a bit later were able to hop into the tour in progress.

Confeitaria Columbo has hosted dignitaries and the rest of us for over 100 years.

We somehow stumbled upon these happy barber shop workers...

Luiz was his beaming, charming self as he walked us through some very historic streets, showing us an old home of Carmen Miranda’s and pointing out an ancient street which still has the small gutter running the length of the center of the street (aka: the old open sewer channel).

Rua da Carioca is fantastically scenic busy old street lined with historic archetecture.

While we wandered from historic site to historic building, only a few were open, and many are best seen during the week when you can enter and take tours of. Luiz and I did a lot of encouraging folks to return and spend more time discovering Rio’s history. There is SO MUCH to see we could have walked for three days!

After peeking into the modern Cathedral and walking under the Lapa arches, we made our way to Cinelandia and pulled about 6 tables together and settled in for a LONG and social lunch. While we did get up and switch seats now and again, it was still impossible to chat with everyone. There were just so many of us present! The meet-up was a total success!

Not everybody (sorry) but a nice group shot at the restaurant Amerelinho in Cinelandia.

Blogger Meet-Up final reminder

2011-07-14T07:51:00.000-03:00

We’re ready to go. Don’t miss the action. The Rio/Brazil expat blogger world is about to get smaller. We’re about to meet each other in the flesh (imagine that!)

On Saturday, July 16^th everyone is invited to join us for a blogger meet-up in Rio. It seems to be shaping up into two gatherings: one at 10:00 a.m. sharp at Master Velentim’s Fountain in Praça XV in Rio Centro for a walking tour of about two hours or so through historic sections of Centro, and other interesting parts of downtown.

The second part is lunch at Amarelinho on the square in Cinelandia (not an expensive place). That should be around 12:30 p.m. I’ve heard from some that they cannot make the walking tour, but they will join us for lunch. Wonderful.

However you can join us – we are eager to see you.

People have confirmed their attendance from all over. It is sure to be a great time. Please plan to join us. Contact me if you have any questions.

See you Saturday!

USA upset at the Women's World Cup

2011-07-12T08:28:00.002-03:00

Wow - did you see this? I must admit my loyalties were split when the US matched up against Brazil. Then it turned into a fantastic victory for the women of the USA team.

Watch this... and who said US guys don't get excited about women's sports?

And here is an interview with player Ali Krieger discussing the win.

Helping Luiz outlive the rest of us

2011-07-11T17:59:00.004-03:00

More times than I can count, Luiz, after revealing that he is living with Chronic Lymphocytic Leukemia, is hit with the blithe question: “Why don’t you just get a bone marrow transplant? That would be a cure, right?” Trust me, if that were the case we would have been there, done that by now.

Don’t get me wrong. We love that people are concerned and click into problem-solving mode when they learn of Luiz’s situation. But as most of you know, it’s better to hold your tongue until you know a little bit more about what you are talking about.

Let me take this opportunity to share some information that generally helps people understand why the “watch and wait” approach employed by cancer specialists in this field is the standard course of action for someone like Luiz. And then I’ll challenge readers to step up and be a part of the solution to Luiz’s long term worries. (I’m not asking for money.)

Chronic Lymphocytic Leukemia (CLL) is “chronic” because it progresses slowly in most cases, and people generally live with the disease for many years. (There are unfortunate exceptions, but Luiz definitely fits into the chronic category.) It’s true that it has been detected that Luiz’s bone marrow is producing white blood cells that are non-functioning and failing to die already and make way for more functioning cells. Over time this will lead to too many dud white blood cells taking up all the space and too few functioning white blood cells to adequately protect him from opportunistic infections. Thus is the simplified understanding of CLL.

Since it is our bone marrow that produces healthy white blood cells, we can see that Luiz’s bone marrow is asleep on the job. Replacing his degenerate marrow with more enthusiastic marrow with a good work ethic would certainly be an improvement – if it were only that easy.

A bone marrow transplant is a life threatening procedure. In order to introduce a whole new colony of bone marrow ready to get to work, you would first have to destroy Luiz’s immune system so it doesn’t go after the new marrow as enemy tissue. That means ridiculously high (life-threatening) doses of chemotherapy and radiation to strip him of his natural ability to fend off infection. Then you have to hope that the new marrow doesn’t go crazy thinking that it is now in an alien and enemy organism that it must destroy – going after Luiz’s cells (graft versus host disease).

So things can go wrong going in and things can go wrong coming out of the procedure. That’s a lot of risk for a patient that continues to live a-symptomatically for the time being. Better to watch and wait.

If and when Luiz’s disease (or the symptoms thereof) become more life threatening than the risk of the “solution,” then, and only then, will we move for transplantation. It is generally considered a final stage Hail Mary pass. But hey – when it works, it works great for the patient!

Oh – I forgot to mention the difficulty finding a suitable bone marrow donor. None of the possible good health outcomes are even in the picture if we cannot find a suitable donor. The best-chance possible donors are brothers or sisters. Luiz is an only child.

According to the National Cancer Institute in Rio, the leading bone marrow transplantation facility in Brazil, the odds of finding a non-first-relative bone marrow donor match are about 1 in 100,000. That’s the bad news.

The good news is that Brazil maintains the third largest registry of volunteer bone marrow donors in the world, the US and Germany being first and second respectively. Better yet, most countries with a donor registry participate in a global registry that lists more than 18 million donors from 47 countries. That helps close the odds a bit.

So here’s where you can be a part of the solution for Luiz and others, when the time comes. Register as a bone marrow donor volunteer. In the USA you can do this from the comfort of your home (the "Be the Match" National Marrow Donor Program will send you a kit and all you need to do is take a cheek swab for testing). In Brazil blood centers in every state will draw just 5ml of blood for testing. (No appointment necessary at INCA in Rio.) In the US, donors must be between the ages of 18 - 60; in Brazil it is between 18 - 55.

Once you are registered, the chances of your being called upon to be a donor are less than 1 in 500. However, if you have the opportunity to donate, the procedure is nearly painless and totally risk free. Localized discomfort from the procedure will likely not last even a weeks’ time. Less than 2% of your bone marrow will be extracted and this will be naturally regenerated by your body in about a month.

So what do you say? Can you spare a little time to join the global bone marrow donor volunteer registry – and maybe save a life? The life you save may be one we all love and hold very dear.

Follow these links for additional information about being a donor volunteer in the USA, Brazil and beyond.

Be the Match: Myths and facts about bone marrow donation

Be the Match: Sign Up As a Volunteer Donor

Brazil's Registry: INCA / REDOME

A list of international registries

And I want to acknowledge this column by Chris McGowen on the Huffington Post that stirred me to post something similar (using some of his words) on my blog.

Thank you in advance for whatever you may be able to do in this effort. Feel free to re-post on your blog or to your Facebook page. We are working to surmount the odds.

You know it is winter in Brazil when

2011-07-09T14:33:00.001-03:00

Photo source: http://www.madeinbrazilblog.com/blog/too-hot-for-monday-the-boys-at-frankie-morello/

You know it’s winter in Brazil when:

The women break out their shin-high boots (even if it’s still warm out).

You close your windows for the first time in 10 months.

The electric shower head water heater does not have the oomph to heat the cold water.

All the windows on the bus are closed, and the air conditioner is off.

Scarves are everywhere – everyone is wearing a scarf.

The gringos’ toes are white in their Havaianas.

Ice cream parlors are selling hot chocolate and coffee drinks.

Weekend street festivals (Festa Junina) feature hot corn on the cob and a super delicious piping hot stew over polenta to warm the belly (Angu à Baiana).

Locals will spend an hour in the sun on the beach (for exercise), but gringos will try to pretend it is sunny and warm all day.

Even the most unlikely among us will learn to cook bagels – if only to heat the kitchen. =;-)

The mosquitoes are oddly absent.

You dig around and find your socks.

Luiz's school success

2011-07-08T14:39:00.001-03:00

Our Luizinho has completed his first of two semesters of formal technical training to become a certified tour guide in Rio state and beyond. For the past several months Luis has awakened, Monday through Thursday, at 5:20 a.m. to catch a bus to Rio to sit for five hours of coursework. He has made LOTS of new friends and has demonstrated he has the natural ability to be a leader, a guide, an engaging teacher and a charismatic guide. I’m personally excited to report that he earned an average of 9.0 out of 10 points each for the 10 courses he took. (Said the proud husband.)

All modesty aside, Luiz was voted by his peers to be the class leader/liaison to the course administration; he was cheered as a natural speaker by his colleagues; and credited by his professors as a valuable resource to any agency that will certainly utilize his services.

But we knew all that.

It has been wonderful for me to see Luiz so engaged and excited about this new professional path. He has had a bounce in his step (even at 5:20 a.m.) and I know he is proud to have been recognized by his peers.

The additional fun aside to all of this is that we have enjoyed many, many free tickets and back-stage passes that come from being a desirable tour guide. Lots of venues want you to know about them and work to encourage you to bring your tour guests to their venues. Thus the free bits for us. Nice. Work it Luiz!

Rio readies for the future

2011-07-04T07:07:00.001-03:00

It’s not your father’s Rio anymore. Whether you agree with the strategies employed or not (or believe entirely their reports of success), Rio’s government has been taking what they consider to be strategic actions over the past few years to clean up corruption, increase transparency in government, professionalize the police force and take technological steps forward to alert and coordinate various first-responders to emergencies, both natural and criminal.

There is a great post about this effort over on the outstanding new blog Rio Real. If you have not already been following Julia Michael’s postings there – start now.

Here is a taste. This is an official brief video (with English subtitles) that lays out the vision of the “new and improved” Rio in terms of service, safety and coordination, using high tech urban planning and other technology.

Luiz health update

2011-07-02T09:09:00.001-03:00

More or less every two months Luiz treks over to the National Cancer Institute in Rio for his periodic checkup. Actually he does it twice, one day to have blood drawn (he has to get there early, they stop drawing blood at 8:00 a.m.) and then again a couple days later for the consultation.

His appointment is always 2:00 p.m., which is really more like they have a morning batch of patients and an afternoon batch of patients. The afternoon batch begins 2:00 p.m. So inevitably he sits and waits in the ever-so-depressing waiting room. That said, yesterday Luiz waited 4 ½ hours before he was called in. (I was not there because Luiz would not let me come along – I got into a near shouting match with the arrogant, smarter-than-thau, “shut up and just do what I say” young medical team leader last time over a simple question.)

Luiz’s current doctor indicated that (for some reason) Luiz’s spot is almost at the end of the day, so he will always be called near the end. Oh really – was someone going to tell us this? His appointment slip always says 2:00 p.m. – but if their secret scheduling thing in the back has Luiz never seen before 4:30, why not tell him that? Needless to say Luiz was exhausted by the time he got home.

On the bright side – all of Luiz’s Complete Blood Count numbers were wonderful. Things remain stable and some ticked in the better direction. Our “Watch and Wait / Worry” period continues. It has been nearly three years since Luiz’ Chronic Lymphocytic Leukemia diagnosis. He continues to maintain a healthy state of affairs.

This time around I’m going to add a health update for myself.

I’m about 15 days post gastric bypass surgery. I feel great, my doctor assures me all is going well, and I’m out walking twice a day. By Monday I’ll be up to 70 ml of puréed food every 45 minutes. Oh the possibilities! I’ve lost nearly 30 pounds.

Thanks all for your well wishes.

Blogger Meet-Up – Update

2011-06-29T08:53:00.003-03:00

Thank you to everyone who responded to the initial post and who have continued with thoughts via email and Facebook. Looks like we have a plan.

Mark your calendar: on Saturday, July 16^th we will meet in Praça XV in Rio at 10:00 a.m. for first a walking tour and then lunch thereafter at about 12:30 in Cinelandia. We will have a trained city guide leading the way (my partner Luiz).

Everyone is invited: bloggers (expats and otherwise), commenters, readers, lurkers – anybody. Just keep in mind that we are gathering for a social day where we will speak English with each other. Join us.

Here are the fun details:

We will meet at 10:00 sharp at the Master Velentim’s Fountain (old drinking water fountain) located in sort of the middle of the Praça. From there we will walk through the Arco de Teles and into an ancient section of Rio where some of the streets are just as they were 300 years ago.

From there we will head downtown, past the Imperial Palace to the Tiradentes Palace. From there we will turn up into the thick of Centro, toward Rua da Carioca. On the way we will stop at Confeitaria Columbo, an historic and amazingly ornate place for tea and sweets.

Then back to Rua da Carioca, with its historic buildings and scenic backdrop.

After passing Praça Tiradents, when we get to Rua do Lavradio we will turn left and enjoy this cute, cute, cute street that is the center of antique shops in the City, plus multiple very cool restaurants.

Once we get to Av. Mem de Sá we will turn left and head to the Lapa arches. We’ll walk under the arches and turn left and head toward Cinelandia.

Once in Cinelandia, with the Municipal Theater, the National Library and the National Museum of Arts in view, we will settle in for lunch at the 90 year old restaurant, Amarelinho.

For people who want to skip the walking tour, plan to meet up with us around 12:30 p.m. at Amarelinho. You might want to get a cell phone number from one of us so you can time your arrival and not wait too long.

Sound like fun? Come join us!

Taxes in Brazil

2011-06-26T08:37:00.003-03:00

This is a sore subject for most Brazilians. Taxes in Brazil are outrageous. Everything is more expensive because of the taxes levied on them. It is generally understood that the high level of tax evasion among individuals and businesses is a direct result of the stupendously high tax rates at every turn. There is a campaign underway to educate residents as to just how ridiculously high their taxes are (on everything) and to get the government to simplify the tax system (lowering many consumer taxes) and thereby lower the rate of tax evasion. A more sane taxing system would cost most people less, and raise more revenue for the government – or so goes the argument.

Remember that I am just a simple guy. I am not a tax accountant or attorney. The information posted here is what I could learn from various web resources. So please do not take this as totally accurate. If tax issues are your concern, consult a professional.

Let’s take a look at the overall tax situation for folks living in Brazil. [I got much of this information from this website.]

There’s the income tax. All Brazilians and foreign residents are subject to this tax. There are five categories for taxpayers:

Monthly Salary	Percentage	Deduction
R$1,434.59	Exempt	0
R$1,434.59 to 2,150.00	7.5%	R$107.59
R$2,150.01 to 2,866.70	15%	R$268.84
R$2,866.71 to 3,582.00	22.5%	R$483.84
above R$3,582.00	27.5%	R$662.94

Other taxes include: taxes on services. That is, for example, if you are a taxi driver, 2 -5% of your earnings are paid to your local jurisdiction (percentage varies by locality).

Inheritance tax. This is typically 8% on the value of your inheritance, but your local state may boost this a bit.

Tax on motor vehicles. This tax is based on the value of your vehicle and is paid annually.

Property tax. For urban and suburban property, the rate varies from 0.3 – 2%; rural property is taxed from 0.3 – 20%

Real estate transfer tax (paid by the buyer). This tax varies from 0.5 – 6%

Social Security tax (INSS).

Monthly Salary	Percentage
Up to R$911.70	8 percent
R$911.71 to R$1,519.50	9 percent
More than R$3,038.99	11 percent

And those are just the taxes you can see.

There are also taxes levied on virtually all the products Brazilians consume. Here is a 9 page pdf that lists scores of products from every sector and the taxes levied on them. It is shocking. Nothing escapes the tax man.

Let me list some things. These are direct consumption taxes (not import taxes):

A soccer ball – 46.49%

A wooden chair – 30.57%

Cigarettes – 80.42%

Christmas tree ornaments – 48.02%

Books – 15.52%

Plastic masks – 43.93%

Sunscreen – 41.74%

A couch – 34.50%

Perfume (not imported) 69.13%

Perfume (imported) – 78.43%

A bikini - 33.44%

Clothes in general – 34.67%

Rice – 15.34%

Sugar 32.33%

Ketchup – 40.96%

Powdered milk – 28.17%

Bread – 16.86%

Microwave popcorn – 34.99%

Band-Aids – 30.39%

Dish washing liquid – 30.37%

Toothpaste – 34.67%

Shampoo – 44.20%

A pen – 47.78%

A pencil – 34.99%

Mineral water – 43.91%

Beer – 54.80%

Soda in a can – 45.80%

A bath towel – 26.05%

A DVD – 44.20%

A video game – 72.18%

A refrigerator – 46.98%

A cell phone – 39.80%

A day at the beauty salon – 26.32%

Going to the theater or a movie – 30.25%

A saxophone – 40.26%

A guitar – 38.77%

Cough syrup – 34.80%

Cachaça – 81.87%

WHERE DOES THIS MONEY GO!?

I guess one of the realities is that these taxes are never collected. The rates are so high and the system so complicated that many businesses find their way around paying the full amount. And given the taxes, by the time the product makes it to the consumer, we are paying a ridiculously inflated price.

It seem like if you could get involved in some aspect of governmental reform here in Brazil – tax reform would be a good place to start – and would bring a hefty return with success.

MORE good tax info (and some taxes I have not included here) can be found here.

Gay Pride in São Paulo

2011-06-23T18:30:00.001-03:00

June 26^th is Gay Day in San Francisco. 750,000 or so people will pack Market Street and the Civic Center to celebrate all things LGBTQQI. It is the highlight of the year and is the second largest public event in California, after the Rose Bowl parade. Oh the memories.

Luiz and I lived within a quick, downhill walk of the Civic Center so each year we would host a Gay Day Brunch where friends would gather, fuel up on a good breakfast buffet (and cocktails), put the finishing touches on their special apparel (you can never over-accessorize on Gay Day) and strategic makeup, and then spill out onto the street to take in a full, long day of joyfulness.

This year, June 26^th is also the 15th annual Gay Day parade in São Paulo. While we won’t be attending, we love following the festivities online. The event in São Paulo is the largest LGBT party on the planet. This year they could well host 3 million participants. THAT’S a PARTY!

The theme of the event this year is “Love each other, end homophobia.”

For fun, the organizers have come up with the idea of getting everyone on the street dancing with each other, a sort of debutante ball. The organizers are preparing a waltz in the center of the city. They have provided a remix version of the Blue Danube waltz to each of the 17 tri-electricos that will be keeping the crowd in high gear. Whenever the Blue Danube waltz is played, everyone is encouraged to dance with whoever is next to them. FUN!

Gay people are so clever.

Thanks to the Inside São Paulo team for posting about this on their terrific blog about all things São Paulo. Check them out.

Even my surgeon has an angle

2011-06-23T07:26:00.004-03:00

Once I decided to get gastric bypass surgery it was necessary to choose a surgeon. Luiz and I asked everyone we know in Niterói for a recommendation. Surprisingly, lots of people knew someone who has had this procedure. We got several suggestions, but one surgeon kept coming up again and again.
Dr. W was recommended by two of our doctors, a couple friends and even one of my students who is a doctor. Sealing the deal was the fact that he is among the doctors participating in my health insurance network.

Our first meeting with Dr. W went well. While waiting for our appointment (they were running 40 minutes late) Luiz took the opportunity to tell my whole story to the women waiting alongside us. But as you know, there are few secrets among patients in a doctor’s waiting room in Brazil. The secretary brought us each a glass of water.

Talking with Dr. W felt a bit like talking with a salesman. He asked a few questions of me, but mostly he spent the time touting his Cracker Jack team and the sure success associated with the procedure. He did reference the need for me to make behavioral changes so as not to balloon out again in two years, but mostly he kept moving things forward.

Turns out Dr. W’s team is mostly off the grid. In addition to my appointments with Dr. W I was to make three appointments (each) with a psychologist, a nutritionist and a physical therapist (all on his team) but they do not accept UNIMED insurance and their fee is R$100/visit. It seems pretty clear to me that, since UNIMED requires a referral from each of these professions stating the appropriateness of the procedure, Dr. W hires these specialists to do just that. He has eliminated the unpredictable.

I began to feel like the place was a “Tummy Mill.” Whatever – I still felt confident with the Dr.’s skill (he has done the procedure more than 130 times). And I, too, didn’t want anything less than a positive referral from the other professionals for the procedure.

If you have had to have a bunch of tests done here in Brazil you know that it is YOU that wanders the neighborhood from lab to lab to get the tests, and it is YOU that collects and files the results in a safe place. In my experience results are not sent directly to the doctor. I had my work cut out for me to complete my numerous tests and to keep a file with the growing pile of documents and films listing the results.

When I finally had all the results in hand, we returned to Dr. W’s office for a consult. During the “consultation” Dr. W went through all the documents and entered the results into my data file in his computer. That was it. I had to say, “Excuse me, but are you going to discuss with me the results of these tests? What does each test tell us about my suitability for the surgery?” In one case I said, “Why are so many of the results printed in red ink?” To which he replied, “That means you have high blood pressure.” I said, “So don’t you think you should tell me that? Don’t you think you might want to refer me to a cardiologist for follow up?” Sigh.

I’ve found that doctors here are often focused on getting you in and out quickly, don’t explain things well unless they are asked and are annoyed with patients that have a brain and ask questions (this goes for our experience at the Cancer Institute as well). It seems very old school – just do what they say and say “thank you doctor.”

So my opinion over time of Dr. W has been less than stellar.

Each time I went for a consultation with any of the professionals in his stable I got a stray piece of paper that filled in one more piece of the overall puzzle. What I wonder is – if every patient is basically going to go through a similar process, why not put together three or four pages, double sided, that lays it all out and give that guide booklet to the patient? No. It was all disjointed and a bit confused.

Trust me, the secretary was never busy. She could easily have printed and collated said booklets.

To the team’s credit they host a 3 hour meeting once a month for patients to go and listen to presentations by the members of the team and to ask questions. But I found the meetings more like a Mary Kay sales pep talk than a careful presentation of the details and procedures associated with the surgery.

In the end I didn’t actually go to all three consults with each of the team members, but I didn’t miss anything. I was not going to part with my money that easily.

Then two days before the surgery the secretary just happened to ask, “Have you called to arrange the anesthesiologist?” What!? Who knew? It was our job to call the anesthesiologist and tell him when we needed him (because, of course, the secretary had no time between chatting with her girlfriends on her cell and standing in the hallway talking with the other secretaries in neighboring offices).

So we called the guy and made arrangements to meet so he could get a sense of what he needed to bring to the surgery. While he was examining me (now the day before the surgery) he said, “You’re pretty big. I think we will want to use an extra instrument to ensure there are no difficulties. There will be an extra charge.” “How much?” we asked. “We can talk about that tomorrow,” he said. WTF?

The Brazilian penal code has a section addressing fraud. The first three numbers of that section are 171. There is a popular expression when something is illegal that it “looks like it’s 171.” That was our take on this last minute extra charge.

The day after the surgery the anesthesiologist came to my room and checked in. Mostly he came to show off the shiny stainless steel instrument he used “just to be safe.” “I bought it in America!” he said with enthusiasm. (I was not impressed.) With his voice lowered so my roommate could not hear, he let us know that his additional fee was R$1,000. We firmly asked for a bill (which he did not have prepared) and said we were first going to submit it to our insurance company for reimbursement. He got all freaked out and told us that the insurance company would not cover it. Winking at each other, Luiz and I just smiled and said we were going to give it a try anyway. We offered our phone number so he could call us when his bill was ready. He said “No, no, you just give me a call.” Yeah, right. We’ll get right on that! Ha! What was up with that?

There were a few other bits of shenanigans we came across in the final days, but I’ll spare you.

In the end my experience was (unfortunately) similar to what I have with so many business people here; so often people have an angle, or a gimmick, or a scam to squeeze a few extra bucks out of you. Money is tough to come by in Brazil, no doubt, but thinking I’m getting scammed by my surgeon and anesthesiologist… that’s a bit much.

[I continue to heal well and lose weight at an incredible pace.]

Maria Gadú and Luis Kiari - Quando fui Chuva

2011-06-22T06:27:00.000-03:00

I could listen all day...

Surgery report back

2011-06-21T14:59:00.001-03:00

At the risk of talking about myself too much I’m going to mix a “How did the surgery go?” post, that many have requested, with a fresh fruit juice post.

Last Friday Luiz and I arrived at the hospital at 6:30 a.m. to get the necessary paperwork out of the way and get me to the pre-op room in time to be ready for my scheduled 8:00 a.m. gastric bypass surgery.

Santa Cruz hospital in Niterói is a mind bending hybrid of a WWII hospital fortress with wooden window shutters and occasional ancient, stork-like steel- legged rolling tray tables sharing the space with computer screens and recently widened swinging doors. The walls appeared freshly painted in a pastel blue. Santa Cruz is a private facility utilized by several insurance networks. It is not within the public system.

I knew I was not at a boutique fat surgery facility when I was handed a “one-size-fits-all” modesty wrap that ties in the back (you know the one) and it did not fit across my shoulders, barely wrapped around half my torso, and given my belly, there was no modesty action at all going on below my waist in front. The nurse covered me with a sheet once I laid down on the gurney. [She understood, having gotten a similar surgery herself 7 years earlier – she showed us her scar.]

Once in the operating theater the lead nurse encouraged whoever was able, to speak with me in English. Several folks could bridge that gap. There was on nurse who seemed like a fish out of water, confused, but she mostly stood next to me and stroked my arm or left her hand on my leg offering moral support. Before long I was out.

About five hours later I heard a male nurse telling me it was all over and I could feel myself being rolled into my room. I shared a room with another guy who had been in there for five days after a prostate surgery of some kind (not cancer-related).

Honestly, there was no pain. Luiz adjusted my bed to a 45 degree sitting position and slowly the fog of the anesthesia lifted. Before long a nurse brought me my lunch: coconut water, which I was to sip in tiny quantities throughout the rest of the day.

By about 7 p.m. I was getting restless so I got out of bed and went for a little walk down the hall and back. It was pretty uncomfortable, but I was a bit surprised to be on my feet so quickly.

The next morning, by about 9:00 a.m. I got a visit from the surgeon who debriefed me on the procedure, which he said went without a glitch, and wrote up my discharge papers.

Within the hour Luiz and I had taken a cab back to the apartment and I was signing on to Facebook to check in.

For the first week I am on a “clear juice” diet: 30 ml every 15 minutes. It doesn’t sound like much, but when your stomach is the size of a walnut, just a couple tablespoons of liquid are pretty filling.

We found a delicious white grape juice at a local natural food store (no sugar added) and I made up some apple juice. Luiz added coconut water to the mix and made some chamomile tea. Not exactly a rodizio, but enough to get me started.

I also made some carrot juice, which I then strained through a cloth and colander, but that was still too heavy and did not sit well. Maybe next week.

All in all it has gone very well so far. I appreciate all the support I’ve gotten from readers and friends. I’ll keep you posted as interesting developments occur.

My first big encounter with a Brazilian health insurance company

2011-06-19T10:18:00.000-03:00

Most people who have the means opt into a private health insurance network. There is free, universal health service for all Brazilians, but the quality of care can, at times, be sub-standard, and there are usually long waits for any interaction.
Luiz and I pay for private insurance as members of a large purchasing pool and get pretty good rates. As a 51 year old consumer, my monthly premium, for example, is just over R$300 a month.

The system works pretty much like it does for HMOs in the States. There is a network of providers, labs, hospitals and an ambulance service. You must stay within the network. Contrary to the USA comparison, there are no co-pays, deductibles or gate-keeper physicians. If I want to see a cardiologist I just call and make an appointment, no need for a referral from a GP.

In November of 2010 I decided to get a gastric bypass operation to help me manage my weight and improve things like my high blood pressure and aching knees and feet. So we went to the surgeon’s office and started the process.

Over the coming weeks I went for numerous tests (endoscopy, 24-hour blood pressure monitoring, overnight sleep apnea testing, multiple blood tests, x-rays, etc.). I never paid a dime for any of it.

We also went to our insurance provider, UNIMED, to get the details as to what we needed to get approval for the procedure. It seems being fat is considered a pre-existing condition. So I would not qualify for the procedure until I had logged two years with the insurer. While I had been a client of UNIMED for over 3 years, it turns out that when I switched from UNIMED-Rio to UNIMED-Fluminense that moved me from one independent entity to another. So I had to have two years with UNIMED-Fluminense. Sigh. So that pushed things back about 5 months.

Other than that delay, the insurance company pretty much played it straight down the middle. If I could provide all of the necessary tests and recommendations, they would sign off. So eventually they got what they needed and approved the procedure.

From my point of view I got very good coverage. But if you ask any provider along the food chain they will scream about how low the reimbursement is for their services.

Now – the story of the surgeon’s office and that adventure – ha! That’s another story! Stay tuned.

Book Review: Sing You Home

2011-06-15T08:04:00.001-03:00

This was my first Jodi Picoult novel. I recently watched a segment of an Ellen DeGeneres show where she interviewed Ms. Picoult and discussed this book. The subject matter is dear to my heart so I took the bait. I’m glad I did. This was a thoroughly enjoyable read (and at times it provided a compelling excuse to avoid my translation work).

Picoult has a beautiful use of language and I enjoyed the rather female point of view she put on the page.

Rather than try and write my own review let me just say I recommend this book and have included below paraphrased excerpts of a March 15, 2011 review by Susan Salter Reynolds published in the Los Angeles Times. I will also include it in my list of books available for lending at the Expat Lending Library.

Oh, and I should mention that the book comes with a CD that includes original tracks that reflect the mood and emotion of Zoe, the main character (and music therapist), as she winds her way through the story. Cute touch. Music by Ellen Wilber; lyrics by Jodi Picoult; all songs are performed by Ellen Wilber.

Here are bits from the review:

Picoult is known for her ability to shed light on the issues affecting domestic life in America. She picks an issue — in the case of Sing You Home, same-sex couples and the emotional and legal issues surrounding fertility procedures — and explores it from several perspectives, including legal, medical, religious, political. She complicates already complicated dilemmas in her plots.

Picoult works hard to keep her characters from being straw men and women. The closer she gets to real life, real people, real problems, the better the novel. In a country as polarized as ours, for a Democrat as active as Picoult (who gives a lot of money to various causes and institutions) it's not always easy to make, say, the anti-abortion activist, the anti-gay-marriage minister or the school board bureaucrat banning books into sympathetic characters. But the writer must try. For without the insight into the motives and convictions of characters on both sides of an issue, the novel will fall flat.

When the novel opens, Zoe and Max have just had yet another miscarriage. The cost of in vitro fertilization has used up their savings (they are not wealthy), and the emotional strain of Zoe's determination and desire to force her body into motherhood has finally overwhelmed Max, who struggles with alcoholism and low self-esteem.

They divorce. Max goes to live with his wealthy brother Reid and sister-in-law Liddy, devout Christians and members of an evangelical church who are struggling with their inability to conceive. Max has a revelation one drunken night and joins the church. Zoe, a music therapist in schools and hospitals, falls in love with a guidance counselor at one of the schools — a woman named Vanessa.

Vanessa has been in the open about her sexuality since high school; Zoe has never had a sexual relationship with a woman. She just loves Vanessa. They marry but have to cross state lines (from Rhode Island to Massachusetts) to do so. When the subject of children comes up, Zoe remembers that there are three frozen embryos unspoken for in the wake of the divorce. She asks Max for permission to use them, but he's persuaded by his church's pastor (who, with his congregation, believes homosexuality to be a depraved lifestyle choice) to deny her request and offer the embryos to Reid and Liddy.

What a plot! Zoe, Max and Vanessa are thrown into decisions and situations for which they are utterly unprepared. Picoult's supporting characters — Zoe's New Age mother, a suicidal teenager Zoe treats each week, the church pastor and the lawyer who represents Zoe and Vanessa in the courtroom drama at the novel's end — are equally unforgettable, though we do not travel as far into their psyches as the author takes us into her main characters.

It's not the happy endings that keep her readers coming back, for she does not always provide them; it's the possibility that humans can be kind, even when they don't get exactly what they want.

I’m looking forward to reading Picoult’s novel My Sister’s Keeper.

Cauliflower, Leek & Sun-Dried Tomato Quiche

2011-06-13T10:41:00.001-03:00

Last Saturday I was inspired by some fantastic fresh vegetables at the market. I wrote up the recipe and walk you thrpough it over on the Cooking in Brazil blog.

You can put practically anything in a quiche. Let the market be your guide.

Go have a look. Get inspired.

Gastric bypass surgery scheduled for Friday

2011-06-12T11:03:00.000-03:00

Say goodbye to my hearty recipes. Brazilian BBQs, all-you-can-eat pizza or sushi restaurants, big pousada breakfasts – soon to be just a memory.
On Friday I am scheduled for elective gastric bypass surgery. By sometime after noon on Friday my stomach will be cut and stitched down to the size of a shot glass.

Just last night I ate three pieces of a fabulous cauliflower, leek, sun dried tomato pie. The sun is setting on that reality. In a month or so I will again be able to eat whatever I like, but the portion size will be a fraction of that three-slice indulgence.

It’s time. I have been on one diet or another for the past 35 years. I like to say that I was skinny for about 15 minutes in 1999 and met Luiz. Lucky me. Since then I have been heavier every year (unfortunately).

The decision is made. I’ve spent the past 6 months taking multiple tests, consulting a psychologist, nutritionist and physical therapist. The insurance company has finally signed off (although they have five more days to screw things up). I am preparing for surgery with specific exercises.

Wish me well!

Here is a video that briefly explains the procedure.

Where have all the pennies gone?

2011-06-10T09:58:00.001-03:00

If you live here I’m sure you have noticed that there are no pennies.

In fact, centavos do exist and they remain legal tender. But nobody pays with them.

When you buy a bunch of broccoli at the produce store it may cost R$3.67. But when you get to the checkout counter you will pay just R$3.65.

Or if your new shoes cost R$120.98, you will certainly pay R$121.00

No pennies.

To their credit, stores always round in your favor. But what’s up with the charade of centavos? Why not price to the nearest R$.05?

It’s all a game, I suppose. "It sounds cheaper..."