Luiz and I have had the privilege of living in a couple of
very desirable vacation destinations: first in San Francisco for many years and
now in Brazil, just outside Rio de Janeiro. We are accustomed to hosting out of
town visitors.
While in San Francisco our approach was to simply offer our
guests keys to our apartment, a comfortable place to sleep, a transit map of
the city and a quick rundown of the unique qualities of each neighborhood. That
was pretty much all they needed to keep busy.
Here in Niterói the brief is a bit more complicated.
Aside from our Brazilian friends, both national and from
back in the states, most everyone else who visits does not speak Portuguese.
And believe me, it is rare to find English speakers while traveling in Brazil,
outside of pousada owners and self-identified multi-lingual tour guides.
Seasoned world travelers don’t let something as routine as a language barrier
dissuade them from coming to discover a bit of Brazil, but it can be somewhat daunting
for others.
Both Luiz and I are proud locals who are happy to settle in
to a good long orientation for what to expect and how best to tackle it. We’ve
got a Portuguese phrase book, a guide book listing historic points of interest
in Rio, intimate knowledge of bus, ferry and cab transportation options
(unfortunately there is no real definitive transit map to offer up), and
specific insider tips for local beaches, two day getaways and champion natural
and cultural spots throughout the country.
Thanks to our friends Carlinhos and Dü in Ouro Preto and the
extended Santana family in Sete Lagoas, we have developed an A-game, full-on Minas
Gerais-worthy breakfast offering for guests
.
Our work and home demands (OK, maybe not “demands,” but sh*t
we gotta do)do not always allow us to accompany our guests in their local
explorations or extended travels in Brazil. We are frequently setting them off
to experience things on their own. This means we have to set them at ease about
the adventure ahead.
So many people have a somewhat exaggerated view of the
dangers they may encounter in Brazil. Let’s face it, Rio, São Paulo, Salvador
and some rural areas have quite a reputation for violence. Tourists fear taking
the bus at night, venturing into unknown neighborhoods, asking strangers for
help, or even simple encounters with the police. Truth be told, there are good
reasons behind the development of these national stereotypes, but I am of the
mind that you have to be pretty unlucky to actually experience any of this
chaos during your brief visit.
Most violent crime in Brazil (like nearly everywhere else on
the planet) happens between people who already know each other, or when
strangers cross limits they should know better than to cross (like trying to
buy drugs on the street). In urban areas like Rio and São Paulo, gun violence
is most often between the police and another party. Travelers out to experience
the best Brazil has to offer should rarely, if ever, cross paths with these
sorts of dangers.
Petty theft, inflated pricing, dogged pestering for your business
or willful avoidance pretty much make up the bulk of the less than
wonderful experiences tourists are likely to have. It is exceptionally unlikely
that a visitor will ever be in physical danger. Don’t sweat it, I say. Get out
there and have fun.
Focus on the positive
– you are on vacation! Most visitors will enjoy a favorable (or really
favorable) currency exchange rate that will have you enjoying all your favorite
activities at a steep discount.
Intercity bus travel is exceptionally comfortable, fast, and
affordable. Overnight “sleeper” buses save time and you don’t have to pay for a
hotel room. In recent years air travel within Brazil has dropped significantly
in price. And for some, when visiting a new big town or city, hiring a
driver/guide for the day is well within budget, if this helps you settle in and
enjoy the sights without stressing.
Our biggest challenge as hosts tends to be helping our
guests manage their expectations regarding how much they can see and experience
in what is usually a brief two weeks (or less) time frame. We have to remind
folks that Brazil is larger, geographically, than the continental United
States. Most people can easily see that a typical first time visit to the USA
does not include a stop in New York City, Disney World in Orlando, the Grand
Canyon and San Francisco and the wine country in California. Similarly, it is
best to decide what region of Brazil you wish to visit and plan to spend some
time there, leaving the Amazon, Rio, the Pantanal and Salvador to more than one
trip.
Buy an extra pair of rose colored glasses from the beach
vendor. You are on vacation, after all. A Brazilian vacation is about
experiencing cultural expressions like hugs and kisses between new friends,
spontaneous music/song when a group gathers, endless food at a family
gathering, unsolicited assistance when you need it most, and a heartfelt
invitation to come back for another visit. Not to mention the phenomenal
natural beauty that is the rain forest and its inhabitants, thousands of beaches both popular and remote, canyons and waterfalls, crystal clear waters, endless sand
dunes, a wetlands area nearly half the size of France, as well as historic
towns and villages frozen in time.
Whether you enjoy a cold coconut water or a strong
caipirinha, consider your glass always half full.
7 comments:
Love this lost post Jim! Great job!! Abracos!!
Ray
Excellent post! I especially love that you mention the US size comparisons -- we had to do that when a family member wanted to visit Foz de Iguacu "since we'll be so close already." Reminded said family member, who lives in Colorado, that the request was akin to us asking to go see the Golden Gate Bridge, "since we'll be so close already..."
then had to remind that "but the flight is only so many dollars" doesn't benefit those of us paid in Reais.....Visitors, remember that your hosts are not enjoying the same currency exchange rate as you are.
Thanks Ray.
Reader - yeah, some folks can forget that while they are enjoying a vacation they have saved up for, we continue to be living on a budget...
Danielle - Y'all come back now, ya hear? And bring your hubby next time. :-)
Dear Jim, what a fun post! It's been years since I was the recipient of your hospitality in San Francisco, but I remember that you are a fabulous cook and host. Would love to visit you and Luiz in Rio at some point in the not-too-distant future. Hope you are both well and happy.
Love, Carrie
Hi Jim, great post your insights and curiosity keeps on wetting my appetite for Brazil. I'm starting to see Brazil as a continent kind of another Latin America in itself. Can you get by with Spanish? (I'm English but live in Spain)
Carrie - it would be a DELIGHT to have you!
Christopher - Conventional wisdom is that Portuguese speakers can pretty much understand enough in Spanish to get by, but Spanish speakers have a harder time understanding Portuguese. Not many Brazilians speak Spanish. But your Spanish skills will give you a good foot up when tackling Portuguese. C'mon down!
Totally agree with your approach & attitude! We're looking forward to the time we'll be able to be back in Brazil!
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