Globeleza, an only-in-Brazil Carnaval phenom

Each year the television network Globo features a body-painted naked beauty in commercials running up to Carnaval. This 30 second spot runs at all hours of the morning, noon and night. Only-in-Brazil!

Favelas in Rio and some context

Favelas in our community and throughout Rio and indeed across Brazil pose a difficult challenge to government, which simplly does not know how to address this permanent underclass situation, or perhaps chooses not to address the problem/suffering/poverty.

Many so-called middle class Brazilians and the more affluent generally look down their noses at the residents of favelas and often characterize the communities as crime ridden and violent.

When I first proposed to my family here that I wanted to go to the Rocinha favela community to see how I might be able to bring my 30 years of nonprofit community service experience to bear, my MIL went through the roof. She was sure I would be shot dead upon entering the neighborhood. She was quite literally blinded by her preconceptions. I was not deterred.

Several years ago Luiz and I traveled to several Greek islands, where the neighborhoods' spacial layouts were remarkably simmilar to the cramped reality of Rio's favelas. But there the communities had been developed and supported and indeed turned into tourist meccas. Tomato - Tomäto.

Here is a good article, translated on the very fine blog Rio real that explores the cultural vibrancy in Rio's favela communities. Check it out. And bookmark Rio real for future reference. Thank you Julia Michaels for your dedicated work.

Ticket for sale sale for canaval in Rio

OK - we have one ticket left for Carnaval. Monday, Sector three, R$250. It will be a great night -- and if you want to join our group ---cool. The price seems to be 1/3 the price of professional vedors.

Tell your friends.

Man it's hot out there

We have five rooms in our apartment, plus the bathroom: the living room, the bedroom, the office, the kitchen and the utility room (laundry, etc.)

The unfortunate configuration is that our bedroom is in the front of the apartment, facing the street. So first, it is noisy. We hear the garbage guys coming through at 1:00 a.m. and we hear the water truck delivering water to the restaurant across the street at 7:00 a.m.

Also - importantly - the summer sun shines on the front of our apartment. That means the bricks, cement and marble heat up all day and keep our bedroom oven hot well into the early hours. But we have our fan.

What is remarkable is the significant difference in temperature during a hot day from room to room.

The bedroom is rough, the living room is nearly unbearable, even with the fan on full force. The kitchen is intollerable - and the utility room. Lucky for me, the office is the coolest place in the apartment and I have a ceiling fan.

When Luiz can no longer stand the heat of the living room - in front of the TV - he joins me in the office. The bedroom, while having the bed - good for naps - is just really hot. Even with the fan blasting.

Ultimately it is the bathroom, with the shower, that provides relief. But I must add that, as with most Brazilian residences, our water is sourced from a tank on the roof. So when it is a terribly hot day, the water in the tank gets heated up to a pretty hot temperature. So there is really no cold water. But the natural process of water coolingly evaporating from your skin saves the day.

I feel a little bit captive in my office on super hot days -- but then, we often take to the beach for relief. (Luiz recently took a nap on the kitchen tile floor to cool down.)

But I will take it over shoveling snow ANY DAY.

Blocos during Carnaval

OMG - how could I have posted that last post without mentioning the BLOCOS that happen all over the city in the run-up and even after the big Carnaval parade in the Sambadromo!?

Street parties that celebrate the glee of Carnaval have been on the resurgence for many years. Partying in the streets is on the rise in Rio during Carnaval.

This list will blow you away regarding how many street parties there are. Caution: do not print it out. It is 66 pages long!

I have a lot of advice about which ones are cool or duds - but let me just say (as a gay man) that the Banda de Ipanema bloco has lost its luster. This used to be a famous gay bloco - but now it is way too straight and practically unrecognizable as a gay event. No offense to my straight companieros - but this is not a gay scene...

You have been warned.

Rio Carnaval - how to

There's nothing like Carnaval to get your juices flowing.

Just getting tickets is a feat in itself. Like a Lady GaGa concert, the tickets for the whole event sell out in minutes. We worked two phones on re-dial and were able to score 16 tickets. Yes!

But getting tickets is just the start of the adventure. Now you have to navigate Rio streets, parking, subway, walking - whatever. The streets near the Sambadromo are PACKED with vendors offering everyting from beer, to food, to Johnnie Walker shots, to hot dogs, to ice.

If you go to Carnaval in the Sambadromo (and you are not in a luxury box) then come prepared. Bring your food and drink. You will be there for at least 8 hours.

The Sambadromo is clean and safe - so there is no inconvenience or danger involved. But the food for sale inside the stadium is "Bob's" - which is a lousy McDonald's knock off. And it is always cold. Vendors walk around selling drinks (ice tea, soda, beer) but the drinks are usually warm. Urgh!

The best approach is to be self-sufficient. Bring your sandwiches, birng your drinks, bring LOTS of ice. Oh - and bring a rain coat. It always rains...

It is general seating, so you have to arrive early and stake out your territory. Hold firm!

We love it. Our group is usually about 12 people. What a party!

This year we have a few extra tickets. Let me know if you want any.

Ode to the ceiling fan

We don't use air conditioning, even though our reality is 90 degree heat during the day and 80 degree heat during the night. Simple ceiling fans keep us cooled enough to go on.

Granted, the fans are on nearly 24 hours a day. But the cost difference, and the ambient temperature more natural, we prefer the fans. We have a ceiling fan in the living room, the bedroom and the office. Only the kitchen does not have a fan. Although I will bring in a stand alone occilating fan on the worst of days when I have to cook.

In the early days I never understood why my in-laws would not turn on the overhead fan when the temperature was so punishing. They were 70 years used to this reality. I was new to the heat and 70 pounds overweight -- so it was nearly unbearable to me.

Now I live in the land of ceiling fans (and am quite thinner). A little breeze and a lot of heat -- it all works out.

Nights are spent under the fan (which we have set to vent UP rather than blow down) is perfect for a good night's sleep. Although I change the sheets frequently b/c of the sweat.

Moving air. Simple moving air. That seems to get us there. We are not living in a climate controlled environment. All is well. Life is good. (And it is HOT!)

Thank you ceiling fans!