Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem in Niterói

It’s one of those ideal spots for a church, or a fort. The tiny Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem church, which has a long, storied history, has survived nearly 350 years perched atop a tiny island just inside the mouth of Rio’s Guanabara Bay.

And that's the Christ the Redeemer statue perch in Rio way off in the distance in the center of the photo.

You can see the church just across the water from our neighborhood Icaraí beach. It occupies what is now the background to the more popular photo of Oscar Neimeyer’s iconic Contemporary Art Museum building. I’ve always wanted to visit the site but it was either closed to the public awaiting yet another round of restoration work or the access gate was locked shut.

This access bridge to the island was built in the 1970s.

The rare day when this gate is unlocked.

It's a long way up a very old stone walkway.

Now that the church has been brought back to working order it is only open to the public one Sunday a month. This past Sunday was my chance to see it up close, and to get spectacular views of Rio, the bay and back at Niterói.

Originally commissioned in December, 1663, the church was eventually completed in 1734. Over the centuries it was expanded, burned to the ground, rebuilt, handed over from one custodian to another, abandoned, rebuilt, closed again and finally maintained by a local Boys Club chapter on a minimal stipend from the city.

It’s a cute, if nondescript, little chapel. This church is really all about location.

To visit the island and the church plan your trip for the fourth Sunday of the month. The gate is opened in the morning, mass is celebrated at 10:00 a.m., and then the gate gets closed up in early evening.

Mariana colonial town in Minas Gerais

Do you need another reason to visit Ouro Preto?

(If you are in search of stone pots sold in the market or clay pots sold on the side of the road, not to mention the incredible farm-style wooden kitchen items and art carvings – you know who you are.)

The small, quiet and historic town of Mariana is located just 12 kilometers from Ouro Preto (OP). Founded in 1696, Mariana is one of the oldest towns in Minas Gerais. The architecture and fantabulous churches tell a tale much like that of Ouro Preto, but without the tourist crush. This is a great day trip from OP, including a quiet lunch.

Admittedly, the place mostly boasts an over run of Baroque churches, but they do, in fact each offer an interesting appeal. When Luiz and I visited we went to the main square and prepared to start our blind walking tour of discovery. Just then a small boy appeared from nowhere and offered to take us around and explain the history of the multiple churches and early government buildings. So cute! He even spoke some basic English - enough to charm us into taking his personal assistance.

If you are so lucky as to be spotted by a freelance pre-teen tour guide, go for it. We learned a lot of fun information and were even made privy to some historic as well as current town gossip. When all was said and done (close to two hours later) we took the boy to lunch with us and gave him R$10 for his services (he had not asked for anything).

On the road between OP and Mariana is an old gold mine that is open for tours (rickety rusted bucket ride down into the mine no extra charge). This is well worth a stop, especially if you have kids.

Here is the city tourism website for more info. All the photos in this post were taken by Luiz.

Gay marriage in Brazil, an update

On Tuesday, October 25th, the Supreme Court of Brazil upheld the same-sex marriage of two women. This was after two lower courts rejected their petition to convert their civil union to a legal marriage. The court has previously, unanimously, held that same-sex civil unions are to be afforded a great number of important rights such as community property, inheritance, health insurance, property rights, alimony, tax benefits and adoption.

So you would think this would settle the matter. Not quite. In Brazil State courts are not bound to follow the rulings from the Supreme Court.

What this means is that if a same-sex couple is in a registered civil union (so-called “stable relationship”) they can petition the State court to have it converted into a legal marriage (which affords additional privileges, protections and responsibilities). If the State court then rejects this petition the couple can appeal their way to the Supreme court where it will be granted.

So we still can’t get married “the easy way” like our straight counterparts, but this was an important step in the right direction.

Ultimately, what is needed is for the legislature to pass a law that provides for the legal marriages of same-sex couples. That’s not such an easy feat given the powerful influence of religious institutions among legislators. But we’ll get there.

In the meantime, there is a path available to legal marriage.

NOTE: be sure to read the clarification from Denis in the comments section. He corrects me that it was not the Brazilian Supreme Court that ruled, but rather a superior appeals body one level below the Supreme Court.  Thanks Denis.

Changing of women's roles in Brazil

This has been noted elsewhere, but it is worth a post.  Check it out. A recent PBS NewsHour piece.  The full article in National Geographic is here.

Watch the full episode. See more PBS NewsHour.

Catholics in Brazil

Can't we all just get along?

I try not to be too political on this blog.  I know it will alienate some readers. But some issues (LGBT rights, human rights, women’s rights, freedom, etc.) get me going enough that I break my soft rule and make a post anyway.

This time it is about the Catholics. Sigh.

I was raised a Catholic. Being a devoted Catholic was encouraged in my family. My mother is a devoted Catholic, as is her life partner. But about 35 years ago I gave up Catholicism for Lent.  ;-)  Never to look back.

So here in Brazil, the oft-touted largest Catholic nation in the world (note to world: most people don’t actually believe or practice), it is news that the Catholic population is shrinking faster than people have thought or believed. In 2003, 74% of the Brazilian population identified as Catholic. In 2009 it was only 68%. [sad face…]

"That is a strong transformation rate. Changes that take place in 100 years are now taking place within ten. If this drop of one in 100 Catholics each year continues, in 20 years, less than half of the population will be Catholic," said Marcelo Neri, the head of Getulio Vargas Foundation. [sad face…]

Brazil remains the most Catholic country in the world, with 130 million adherents, but this is the first time in 140 years that less than 70 percent of the population is Catholic. [sad face…]

As a Gay Man looking for equality (not to mention women who need medical freedom or trans people who just need to be SEEN!) I say – happy us – that the so-called Christian church, the Catholics, are waning in power.

There – I said it.

Here is the source of the quotes.

Gay Pride vs "Straight Pride" in São Paulo

The poor oppressed straight people in São Paulo are asking for a little relief. They want some time to stand in solidarity against the horribly oppressive (and supposedly powerful) LGBT lobby. They have been fighting for a so-called “Straight Pride” day. Poor things.

Like so many other indignant bigots, they want to change the subject from common-place violence against LGBT folks (which is at record levels in Brazil) to the terrible inconvenience of actually discussing diversity and tolerance in a civil society. They are so unhappy about having their “freedom” to impose their ignorance and blatant discrimination (often coded into law) over LGBT folks limited that they are taking to the streets.

And the São Paulo government has just co-signed their tirade, issuing a permit for the “parade”.

The good news is that the LGBT pride parade in São Paulo is the largest in the world, attracting something like 3 million participants every year. I’m pretty confident that, in spite of the news coverage, this effort by small-minded straight folks will not get much traction (even though the so-called Evangelicals are the fastest growing organized religious dogma in the country).

On the flip side - don’t forget that the Niterói Gay Pride March is August 21st and the Rio Dyke March is Sunday, August 28th.

History tells us that justice and freedom will win in the end. I just hope I get to see it. It is tiring to be always pushing back against the bigoted majority…

Brazil Supreme Court awards gay couples new rights

This article appeared this morning on the BBC website

6 May 2011                                                              

Brazil's Supreme Court has voted overwhelmingly in favor of allowing same-sex couples the same legal rights as married heterosexuals.

The decision was approved by 10-0 with one abstention.

The ruling will give gay couples in "Stable Unions" the same financial and social rights enjoyed by those in heterosexual relationships.

The ruling makes Brazil one of very few South American nations, after Argentina and Uruguay, to allow gay unions with benefits similar to those afforded a heterosexual married couple.

"The freedom to pursue one's own sexuality is part of an individual's freedom of expression," said Justice Carlos Ayres Britto, the author of the ruling.

Gay activists welcomed the decision, saying it marked an "historic day" for the country.

"The degree of civilization of a country can be measured by the way people in a nation treat their homosexual community," Claudio Nascimento, head of Rio de Janeiro state's Gay, Lesbian and Transsexuals Committee said, according to O Globo.

From now on same sex couples will be able to register their civil partnerships with solicitors and public bodies, giving them proper inheritance and pension rights.

However, the landmark ruling stops short of recognizing gay marriage, which could involve public or religious ceremonies.

Brazil's Roman Catholic Church had argued against the decision to allow civil unions, saying the only union referred to within Brazil's constitution was that between a man and a woman.

But the country's recently elected President Dilma Roussef has made the issue one of her big social policy reforms.

Now if only our friends back in the States could see such progress.  I fear getting relief from the US Supreme Court is a much more distant reality, however. Sigh.

Additional info here.

Brazilian BBQ birthday - but different

We just spent the afternoon and evening at Luiz’s cousin’s birthday party; BBQ, more like it. It was a classic Brazilian family gathering, except in this case Gernaldo did not invite any family, except his mother and Luiz and I.

There were probably 60 people there eating, drinking, dancing, showing off newborns, and otherwise having a great time. But siblings? – nope. It kinda reminded me of my own birthday parties over time. I have traditionally invited my “chosen” family to these events.

But this struck me as odd for a Brazilian gathering. No family? It was weird.

What wasn’t weird was how the young children ran wild and occupied themselves in all corners of the space; how the youngest in the crowd were being carried around by the beaming oldest in the crowd; how the teenagers were finding their space to drink and kiss; and how the food was endless, salty, sweet and otherwise freshly picked.

Brazilian family (or chosen family) celebrations please everyone, coach the young regarding how to move into their role at a later date, absolutely focus on the tiny babies, and provide for the alcoholic indulgences of most everyone who wishes to go there. At the best parties (IMHO) the folks hired to help (the guy working the BBQ, the woman washing the glasses and or frying appetizers, the waiters passing the food and keeping the tables clean, the DJ keeping everyone on the dance floor…) they are given multiple chances to enjoy the party/food/drink – as was the case today.

But today was a bit different. Where were the siblings and their families? I can’t say for sure. I am not a fofoqueiro and I do not lean over to listen to gossipy conversations. But it was plain to see that the people present were members of the Macumbeira community where the birthday guy and his wife celebrate meaningful rituals. His siblings are rather ardent Christians. Herein could be the rub. But – none of my business.

It was a great party with fun people, terrific food, non-stop music (this middle-aged crowd of Brazilians really lit up to a little Donna Summer!) visions of future generations, and no drama from contrarian siblings.

We had a great time and were invited back for a celebration of São Jorge’s feast day.

Shopping for Iemanjá

Luiz and I spent our first New Year’s Eve together on Copacabana beach watching what were certainly the most spectacular fireworks I had ever seen.  The year was 2000, the turn of the millennium.  It was some party.

Unbeknownst to me Luiz had two gold wedding bands in his pocket.  After midnight, when the fireworks ended, we walked to the edge of the sea. Luiz stepped in and jumped seven waves.  Then he took the rings, submerged them in the water, and asked Iemanjá (goddess of the sea) for her blessing.  I don’t know exactly what he asked, but it appears we’ve been doing pretty well ever since.

Friday night we will be returning to the sea at midnight, this time at Itaipú beach.  Luiz is preparing an offering for Iemanjá.  It will include many of her favorite items: white flowers, perfume, a looking glass, a hair brush – all arranged in a little blue boat lit with a candle.  Luiz will set it to float away, to thank Iemanjá for all she has brought us.





We picked up the little boat a few days ago at a spiritualist shop in centro Niterói.  They also had a package with perfume, mirror, brush, etc. that forms the beauty items core of the offering.

On Tuesday we got up at 5:00 a.m. to go to the Rio flower market and get some flowers.  Luiz had a list and his mother (who has her own year-end ritual offerings) asked him to pick a few things up for her as well.

The place was a sea of white flowers.  There were countless vendors with white gladiolas, a favorite NYE flower that will be sold from nearly every street corner in Copacabana on Friday and into the night.  Residents and tourists alike will be taking their flower offerings to the sea in honor of Iemanjá.

Next year, 2011, the principal deity for the year will be Oxun, mother of fresh water, queen of the waterfalls.  Her color as known in the Candomblé religion is yellow.  So Luiz bought a few yellow flowers as well for him and his mother.  It will be a good opportunity to check in with Oxun, as the year gets underway.

We will be staying at the house this weekend and I will be away from my computer.  I promise to return with photos of our NYE celebration and Luiz’s modest gift to one very special Orixá. 

Happy New Year.  (I just ended 2010 by posting my 500^th post.)

Going old school

Just to be clear, I am not a religious person.  If you know me well you know how crazy it is even to say that.  But I know there are some readers who don’t, as yet, know me that well.

My family is Catholic and I was raised within the fold.  But I gave up Catholicism for Lent about 30-some years ago and have never looked back.

But there are remnants of my religious upbringing that have not faded.  The chill I get when hearing a beautiful rendition of Ave Maria is one of them.  Maybe it is because my mother loves this song so.  Or maybe it’s because it was played at the funerals of both my father and my sister.  Or, who am I kidding, maybe it’s both.

So combine Christmas far from my birth family and Chantacleer and you get seven and a half minutes of music that makes me horripilate.

Feliz Natal; Merry Christmas everyone.

Rio Gay Pride 2010 pics and more

 The sunshine fairies danced samba with gusto to keep the rain at bay.  They allowed just enough misty sprinkles to wet the perfect bodies of the men and others showing off their goods.  Skin glistened in the grey light of the cool afternoon.

OK, so it was not Copacabana’s best day weather wise – but believe me, no one noticed, we were all too busy being swept up into the excitement of the 15^th annual Gay Pride Parade in Rio de Janeiro.

Seven trio electricos spread out across Copacabana Beach.

The official theme was to promote the criminalization of homophobia (hate crimes legislation).  There is a law that has been introduced (repeatedly) in Brazilia to do just that, but it has been defeated in large part because of the powerful Catholic Church lobby and other conservative so-called Christian organizations (who are thus in favor of anti-gay violence, I presume, why else?).

What a great day.  We met up with Zezinho and three of his friends and tried multiple times to hook up with Rachel and her friend, but no no avail.  The crowd was intense.

We bailed after about 6 hours, but the party was far from over.